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Andrew    Carnegie 


AN 

AMERICAN  CONSUL 

IN  AMAZONIA 


By 
MAJOR  J.  ORTON  KERREY 

Ex-Consul  to  Para,  Brazil,  and  author  of  "The  Boy  Spy, 

a  Civil  M'ar  Episode,  "The  Land  of 

To-Morrow."  Etc..  Etc. 


NEW  YORK 

WILLIAM  EDWIN  RUDGE 

1911 


Copyrifcht.  1911 
Bn    J.    Ortoii    Kerbev 


I'ltKSS   OK 

WIIXIAM  KDWIN   KUDOK 

<I«<|M  Williiim  Strt-el 

New  Y<»rk 


THIS  VOLUME   IS  AFFECTIONATELY 
DEDICATED  TO 

ANDREW  CARNEGIE 

My  Employer  and  Preceptor  in  early  days 

and  Constant  Friend  in  later  years. 

The  Apostle  of  the  World's 

Peace   and   the    Special 

Friend    of  Pan- 

America. 


TNTRODUCTORY 


It  is  in  the  beginning  of  the  Summer  vacation  season  that  the 
salaried  man  or  woman  is  hable  to  be  seen  in  groups  and  heard 
in  chorus  discussing  with  associates  their  separate  prospective 
leaves  of  absence,  for  thirty  days  with  pay,  and  if  a  Government 
employee,  an  extension  for  sixty  or  ninety  days,  on  account  of 
"sick  leave"  also  with  pay,  to  enable  them  to  recuperate  at  the 
seashore  or  mountains,  or  perhaps  to  enjoy  a  trip  to  Europe,  or 
the  Mediterranean  or  Nile. 

A  luncheon  party  comprising  an  official,  a  scientist,  a  retired 
missionary  and  the  writer,  were  discussing  this  question,  the 
former  two  outlining  an  itinerary  along  the  beaten  path  of  Euro- 
pean tourists,  the  missionary  expressing  a  preference  for  a  visit 
to  the  Holy  Land,  or  up  the  Nile.  When  the  writer  suggested 
that  he  purposed  going  to  the  Equator  and  the  Amazon  for  the 
benefit  of  his  health  they  gave  him  the  laugh  for  selecting  for  a 
health  resort  this  so-called  "zone  of  unhealthiness,"  to  which  he 
responded  as  follows:  "Relatively,  the  mortality  in  any  one  sec- 
tion of  the  United  States  was  greater  than  at  Para,  the  seaport  of 
the  Amazon,  where  I  lived  for  several  years  and  which  I  pro- 
pose re-visiting  a  third  time  to  attend  the  opening  of  the  Brazilian 
National  Exposition,  at  Rio  Janeiro,  in  August,  1908." 

The  party  separated  with  mock  farewells  and  sympathetic 
glances  toward  the  benighted  traveller  to  the  unknown  lands  of 
the  south  as  "that  bourne  from  whence  no  traveller  returns." 

The  missionary,  charitably  delayed  with  a  view  to  doing 
some  personal  home  missionary  work,  looking  to  convincing  the 
misguided  traveller  of  the  error  of  his  ways,  mildly  suggesting 
that  July  and  August  certainly  seemed  to  be  out  of  season  for 
southern  travelling,  wholly  overlooking  the  climatic  conditions 
that  make  the  months  of  July  and  August  the  most  agreeable 


of  the  winter  months  in  the  latitude  of  Rio  or  south  of  the  Equa- 
tor, wliich  corresixjiids  to  our  summer  in  the  United  States.  He 
persisted,  however,  that  the  "winter"  season,  as  he  called  it, 
would  as>uredly  be  more  sensible  for  a  visit  to  Para,  when  it  was 
furtlier  explained  that  there  was  no  winter  in  Para,  where  it  is 
always  lune  in  the  "land  of  to-morrow,"  every  day  being  alike  hot. 

There  being  no  seasons  on  the  Equator,  it  is  necessary  to 
consult  an  almanac  to  learn  when  it  is  winter  in  the  "land  of 
everlasting  summer"   (and  occasional  hurricanes). 

This  crude  illustration  will  serve  to  enforce  the  observation 
that  a  large  proportion  of  our  school  boys  and  girls,  as  well  as 
of  their  parents  and  teachers,  who  are  familiar  with  Eastern  and 
European  travel,  and  even  Arctic  and  African  exploration,  are 
wofully  deficient  in  the  physical  geography  of  "Equatorial  Amer- 
ica." which  is  my  apology  for  presuming  to  inject  a  lesson  in 
geography  in  this  desultory  outline. 

Intending  visitors  to  the  Capital  City  of  the  United  .States 
are  cordially  invited  to  visit  the  Pan-American  Union  P>uilding, 
the  beautiful  Peace  Temple  presented  by  Mr.  Carnegie,  which  is 
located  in  Potomac  Park  near  the  White  House  and  .State  De- 
partment, where  are  provided  facilities  for  obtaining  information 
about  Pan-.\merica.  comprising  a  library  of  seventy-five  thousand 
volumes,  located  in  a  large  and  comfortable  free  reading-room, 
wherein  may  be  found  files  of  the  principal  Pan-.A.merican  news- 
papers and  magazines,  maps  and  views  of  those  countries. 

.\mong  the  more  interesting  exhibits  is  an  immense  relief 
map  directly  in  the  center  of  the  room,  showing,  on  a  scale  of 
twenty-five  miles  to  the  incli.  the  principal  rivers,  mountains, 
railroatls  and  cities  of  the  entire  hemisphere.  The  surprising 
feature  apparent  to  the  numerous  cultured  visitors  to  the  hall,  is 
the  great  size  of  South  America,  and  the  fact  that  Brazil  is 
larger  in  area  than  the  United  States.  Another  striking  feature 
is  the  relative  position  of  the  continent  of  .South  .Ainerica,  which 
lies  entirely  to  the  east  of  \orth  America,  approximately  in  a 
longitude  of  3,5  degrees  and  in  latinuU  <.ii  both  sides  of  the 
I*!quatfir. 


Through  the  kind  courtesy  of  the  Director-General,  Mr. 
John  Barrett,  the  author  has  been  occasionally  assigned  the  very 
pleasant  duty  of  explaining  to  numerous  visitors  to  the  Pan- 
American  Building  the  map  and  environment.  The  Director 
humorously  says  "lie  refers  them  to  the  writer  as  knowing  more 
about  Brazil  and  the  Amazon  than  any  of  the  permanent  stafY." 

The  chain  of  islands  comprising  Cuba,  San  Domingo,  Puerto 
Rica,  St.  Thomas,  St.  Croix,  St.  Kitts,  Martinique,  Guadaloupe, 
and  St.  Lucia  to  the  Windward  Islands  of  the  Barbados  and 
Trinidad,  as  seen  on  the  map,  are  so  closely  connected  that  to 
the  eye  they  resemble  stepping  stones,  which  in  imagination  con- 
nect the  two  great  continents. 

Steamers  for  North  Brazil  and  the  Amazon  sail  along  this 
West  India  route  without  getting  out  of  sight  of  land,  one  beau- 
tiful island  or  light-house  ahead  coming  into  view  before  the 
others  disappear  in  the  rear. 

It  is  suggested  that  even  a  small  open  sail-boat,  on  the  line 
of  Jack  London's  sea-going  dory,  or  the  Poultney  Bjgelow 
"Canoeing  Around  Martinique,"  or  the  ordinary  pleasure  yacht, 
launch  or  motor-boat,  may  safely  make  the  voyage  from  New 
Orleans  and  the  Mississippi  via  Florida  and  the  Windward 
Islands  to  Trinidad  on  the  north  coast  of  South  America  to  the 
Orinoco  and  the  Amazon. 

This  plan  is  conceded  to  be  entirely  practicable  in  a  com- 
mercial, social,  or  neighborly  way.  The  natives  and  traders  of 
the  chain  of  islands  maintain  regular  daily  communication  be- 
tween various  islands  by  paddling  and  sailing  canoes  over  the  beau- 
tiful  calm  blue  sea.  It  is  proper  to  suggest  also  that  the  pirates 
and  buccaneers  of  early  days  no  longer  navigate  this  part  of  the 
Spanish  main. 

If  desired  the  writer  of  these  pages  would  be  glad  to  per- 
sonally conduct  any  readers  along  this  route  to  the  Equator  and 
the  Amazon  and  beyond,  and  to  return  them  safely  home. 

The  Author. 
April  1,  1911. 


-Washino-ton.  D.  C.  July  21.  1909. 
'■Brazilian  Embassy. 

•  riic  lirazilian  Ambassador  thanks  Major  J.  Orton  Ker- 
bev  fur  his  excellent  article  on  Para,  published  in  the  Bulletin 
of  the  American  Republics  (for  April,  1909). 

'it  is  a  \erv  interesting:  service  to  that  State.'' 


"Quinta  Carmita, 
"Para,   Brazil,  April   18,   1910. 
"Major  J.  (Jrtun  Kerbey. 

Washington.  D.  C. 

"Esteemed  friend :  We  are  waiting  anxiously  for  your 
new  book  on  Brazil,  especially  on  Para,  in  which  the  Quinta 
Carmita  has  the  honor  of  being  mentioned  in  two  chapters. 
and  we  already  engage  to  take  several  dozen  copies.  If  pos- 
sible, we  will  translate  it  into  Portuguese,  thus  making  it  bet- 
ter known  here. 

"We  have  translated  sexeral  pages  of  }  our  other  work. 
'The  Land  of  Tomorrow."  for  publication  in  a  magazine  in 
Belem.     I  hope  you  will  not  refuse  me  permission  for  this. 

"(Signed)     J.  M.  Oliveira." 


"Washington.  D.  C,  May  27,  1910. 
"International  l>ureau  of  American  Republics. 

"My  dear  Major:  I  have  read  with  interest  your  letter 
and  clipping  from  the  Washington  Times  of  May  23. 

"The  excerpts  on  religion  in  Brazil  from  your  book,  'An 
American  Consul  in  .Amazonia,'  are  most  interesting  reading, 
and  I  am  in  hopes  to  see  the  book  completed,  feeling  that  I 
will  cnjov  11  .'!<  much  as  the  perusal  of  your  enclosure, 
"Sincerely  yours, 
"(Signed)  f  F.  J.  Yanes,  Secretary." 

Major  J.  Orton  Kerbey. 
1802  G     Street. 

•The  Ika?;ilian  .Xmbassador  Joa<|uiiii  Xalnud  died  .it  Washington  on 
January  17,  IfUO. 

tSccrctary  Yancs  was  promoted  to  tin-  position  of  .\ssistant    Director 
of  Pan-American  Union  in  July,  1910. 


CONTENTS 


CHAPTER  1'A(;B 

I.  How  to  Get  There 3 

II.  Routine  Aboard  a  Brazilian   Steamer 15 

III.  Historic  Route — Detailing  Steamship  Interests   ....  25 

IV.  Equator,  North   Star,  and  Mouth  of  Amazon   ....  ?>7 
V.  Consular  Appointments 46 

VI.  My    Predecessor 56 

VII.  Ashore  in  Para 67 

VIII.  Climate 80 

IX.  A  Brazilian's  Defence  of  the  Climate 90 

X.  Manners   and   Customs 93 

XL  A  Sunday  Breakfast  at  Quinta  Carmita 106 

XII.  Brazilian  Family  Life;  Its  Attractions  and  Limitations  117 

XIII.  Consular  Report  on   Health 132 

XIV.  Yellow  Fever 142 

XV.  A  Talk  With  the  Governor  on  Leprosy 155 

XVI.  Business   Interests   in   Para 159 

XVII.  Stranded  American  Seamen 170 

XVITI.  An  Excursion  With  the  Upper  Four  Hundred   ....  181 

XIX.  A  Revolution  in  Para — Geographical  Outlines  of  Brazil  194 

XX.  Immigration    to    Brazil 202 

XXI.  Fiesta   of   Nazareth 208 

XXII.  A  Night  on  the  Amazon  with  the  Boys 213 

XXTTT.  Rubber,   Cacao,  and    S.    S.    Subsidies 220 


CHAPTER  HACK 

XXIV.  History    and    Religion 229 

XXV.  Governor's   Ball   at  the    Palace 239 

XXVI.  A  Funeral  and  a  Carnival 250 

XXVII.  Agriculture   and   Natural  Resources 271 

XXVIII.  O  Consul  Relieved  on  Memorial  Day,  May  30     ...      .  283 

XXIX.  Amazonia — A  Future  Empire 299 

XXX.  Down  the  Amazon  From  Manaos— An  Improvised  Funeral  307 

XXXI.  A  Side  Trip  to  Rio 325 

XXXII.  Trans-Andean  Railway 343 

XXXIII.  Home,   via   Europe — Conclusion 359 


ILLUSTRATIONS 


FACINC;  PAGE 

Andrew  Carnegie Frontispiece. 

Captain  Wm.  Th.  Meissner,  S.  S.  Goya/. 8 

S.   S.  "Goyaz,"  of  the  Lloyd    Brazileiro 16 

Map  of  Steamship  Route 32 

High   Water  on   the   Lower  Amazon 40 

Group  of  English   "Clarks" 48 

Senhor   Justo   Chermont 56 

Hotel   America 64 

A  Back  Street  in  Para 72 

A  Broad  Avenue  in   the  Suburbs  of   Para 80 

Leticia 88 

Amazonas  Theater,  Manaos,  Brazil 96 

The  Three  Sisters  of  "Quinta  Carmita" 104 

The  Sisters  Emilia  and  Lourdes  Oliveira 112 

Praca  Da  Republica,  Para,  Brazil 120 

Da   Paz  Theater,   Para.   Brazil 128 

A  Hacienda  or  Fazenda 136 

Cathedral  in   Para 144 

Dr.  Augusto  Olympio  de  Araujo  e  Sousa 152 

Rua  Joao  Alfredo 160 

A  Quay  in  the  Harbor  of  Para,    Brazil 168 

Fluvial  Navigation  on  the  Para  River,   Brazil 176 

An  Excursion  Steamer 184 


AN  AMERICAN  CONSUL 
IN  AMAZONIA 


CHAPTER   I. 


HOW   TO   GET   THERE. 


T_^.   _       HE    traveler    from    the    United  States    in- 
(^  ^^  tending  to  visit  Rio  de  Janeiro  and  Buenos 

"^^X       ,  Ayres  may  have  a  choice  of  the  several 

EngHsh  and  German  steamship  lines  from 
New  York.  However,  they  all  seem  to  be 
in  a  combination  or  trust,  as  they  charge 
the  same  rate  for  the  widely  different  or 
indifferent  accommodations;  namely,  one 
hundred  and  fifty  dollars  to  Buenos  Aires,  one  hundred  and 
thirty-five  dollars  to  Rio  de  Janeiro,  one  hundred  dollars  to 
Pernambuco,  eighty  dollars  to  Para,  and  forty  dollars  to  Bar- 
bados, with  the  usual  reductions  for  return  tickets. 

About  the  same  rates  prevail  from  European  ports  by  the 
larger  steamers  of  the  Royal  Mail,  French,  Italian,  and  German 
lines;  so  that  those  desiring  to  go  by  way  of  Europe  need  only 
pay  the  additional  fares  from  New  York  to  Liverpool  or  Medi- 
terranean ports. 

The  time  occupied  in  the  voyage  depends  upon  the  route  se- 
lected and  the  steamers.  The  distance  from  New  York  to  Rio 
de  Janeiro  is  4748  nautical  miles.  The  most  direct  route  or  quick- 
est time  from  New  York  to  Rio  de  Janeiro  or  Buenos  Ayres  is 
probably  made  by  the  several  new  British  steamers,  which  have 
fortnightly  sailings,  usually  making  the  voyage  to  Rio  in  sixteen 
to  twenty-five  days,  without  call.  These  steamers  are  out  of  sight 
of  land  for  a  long  time,  making  a  course  easterly  for  a  thousand 


4  AN  AMERICAN  CONSUL  IN  AMAZONIA. 

miles,  reaching  nearly  half-way  across  the  Atlantic  before  turn- 
ing south.  Their  passengers  sometimes  get  their  first  view  of 
Brazilian  land  at  Pernambuco. 

The  most  popular  route,  however,  for  first-class  passengers  is 
the  longest  way  around,  from  New  York  to  Europe  and  thence  to 
South  America,  because  of  the  superior  class  of  steamers  and 
the  opportunities  afforded  for  writing  about  the  interesting 
points. 

The  saloon  passenger  list  from  Southampton  on  one  of  the 
"Aristocrats  of  the  Sea,"  as  the  Royal  Mail  is  called,  is  made 
up  of  well-to-do  people  who  are  making  the  voyage  south  for 
their  health  or  recreation,  as  well  as  for  business.  In  the  sec- 
ond class,  or  intermediate,  are  usually  found  English  mechanics 
or  skilled  workmen  en  route  to  Argentina  or  Brazil  to  accept 
contract  positions,  while  the  steerage,  or  third  class,  is  always 
crowded  to  overflowing  with  emigrant  families  and  laborers. 

The  German,  French  and  Italian  lines  are  also  liberally 
patronized  by  their  own  people,  especially  in  the  carrying  of 
large  numbers  of  emigrants  from  the  Mediterranean  ports  and 
the  handling  of  cargoes.  There  are  comparatively  no  emigrants 
from  North  America  to  South  America. 

All  steamers  from  Germany,  Liverpool  or  Southampton 
make  preliminary  short  stops  and  interesting  calls  at  Cherbourg 
and  Havre,  in  France;  also  Vigo,  Oporto  and  Lisbon.  The 
Mediterranean  boats  also  call  at  Madeira,  Cape  Verde  and  the 
Canary  Islands,  from  which  point  they  all  cross  the  South  At- 
lantic at  the  narrowest  point  to  Pernambuco,  Brazil,  thence 
leisurely  down  the  coast,  making  short  stops  at  Bahia,  Rio  de 
Janeiro,  Montevideo  and  Buenos  Aires. 

The  voyage  usually  requires  about  the  same  time  from 
Southampton  to  Rio  de  Janeiro  as  from  New  York.  The  nu- 
merous stops  or  delays  give  the  passengers  from  Europe  an 
opportunity  for  sightseeing  ashore,  which  is  a  pleasant  relief 
not  afforded  by  the  direct  line  from  New  York. 

Montevideo  and  Buenos  Aires  are  both  within  a  few  days' 
sailing  of  Rio  Plata  from  Rio  de  Janeiro. 


HOW  TO  GET  THERE.  5 

It  is  important  to  note  that  the  steamship  service  to  North 
Brazil  and  the  Amazon  is  entirely  distinct  from  that  to  Rio  de 
Janeiro  and  points  south  of  Pernambuco. 

A  study  of  the  map  will  show  that  the  coast  of  Brazil  north 
of  Pernambuco  extends  approximately  due  west  and  east  for 
a  thousand  miles,  to  the  mouth  of  the  Amazon. 

Relatively,  it  is  almost  as  far  out  of  the  direct  course  from 
New  York  to  Rio  de  Janeiro  for  a  steamer  to  sail  westerly  into 
the  Amazon  to  Para  as  it  would  be  to  enter  the  Gulf  from  the 
east  and  go  up  the  Mississippi  to  New  Orleans. 

Because  of  these  geographical  conditions  and  the  vast  trade 
of  the  Amazon  for  fifty  years  there  have  been  regular  lines  of 
British  trading  steamers  plying  from  New  York  and  also  from 
Liverpool  to  the  Amazon  and  North  Brazil  exclusively. 

Good  cargo  steamers,  with  limited  accommodations  for  pas- 
sengers, sail  fortnightly  from  New  York  and  Europe  to  Para 
and  up  the  Amazon  to  Iquitos,  in  Peru,  a  distance  of  two  thou- 
sand miles. 

The  time  from  New  York  to  Para  is  estimated  at  from  ten 
to  twelve  days,  but  the  writer,  who  has  made  voyages  over  the 
different  routes  several  times,  gives  the  actual  time  from  New 
York  to  Para  from  fourteen  to  fifteen  days  and  the  cost  about 
eighty  dollars  (first  class). 

These  steamers  will  land  passengers  at  Barbados  for  forty 
dollars.  They  sometimes  deliver  mail  to  other  islands,  and  re- 
plenish their  supply  of  coal  at  Santa  Lucia. 

The  voyage  may  be  continued  in  the  same  steamer  from 
New  York  to  Para,  a  distance  of  two  thousand,  nine  hundred 
and  fifteen  miles  by  sea,  thence  two  thousand,  three  hundred 
miles  up  the  Amazon  to  Iquitos,  in  Peru,  with  interesting  stops 
all  along  the  Amazon.  The  trip  will  consume  from  ten  to  fifteen 
days  from  Para,  and  the  cost  from  Para  is  less  than  one  hun- 
dred dollars. 

There  are  at  present  no  American  steamers  to  be  found  on 
these  different  routes.  Some  years  ago  there  was  a  feeble  at- 
tempt to  establish  an  American   line  to  do  a   through   coasting 


6  AN  AMERICAN  CONSUL  IN  AMAZONIA. 

trade  between  Norfolk,  Virginia,  and  Rio  de  Janeiro,  which  was 
liberally  subsidized  by  Brazil.  A  profitable  business  was  assured, 
but,  because  Congress  would  not  grant  a  liberal  subsidy  on  the 
demands  of  the  lobbyists  at  Washington,  the  enterprise  was  aban- 
doned, and  the  Huntington  steamers,  Alliance,  Advance  and 
Finance  were  transferred  to  the  Panama  route. 

During  the  past  two  years  an  independent  Brazilian  company 
has  been  quietly  operating  the  abandoned  American  route  be- 
tween Rio  de  Janeiro  and  the  coast  to  the  Amazon,  and  from 
Para  to  New  York  by  way  of  the  West  Indies. 

By  the  distribution  of  attractive  booklets  the  British  and 
German  lines  to  and  from  Brazil  are  liberally  advertising  their 
facilities  for  carrying  American  passengers  and  cargo  to  South 
America.  The  booklets  describe  the  beauties  and  the  picturesque- 
ness  of  the  companies'  routes.  The  Brazilians,  being  modest  and 
inexperienced  in  American  ways,  are  slow  to  advance  their  own 
interests.  The  writer  wishes  to  voluntarily  testify  as  to  his 
actual  experiences  during  his  recent  voyage  on  the  Lloyd  Bra- 
ziliero  company's  steamer  Goyaz. 

The  Lloyd  Braziliero  is  a  well-known  line  with  ample  cap- 
ital, organized  many  years  ago  for  exploiting  steamship  trans- 
portation, principally  in  Brazil,  but  which  has  recently  extended 
its  service  from  Rio  de  Janeiro  along  the  Brazilian  coast  to  the 
United  States,  via  the  islands. 

Though  listed  as  Lloyd  Braziliero,  with  M.  Barque  &  Com- 
pany as  owners,  it  is  generally  understood  that  the  Brazilian 
Government  practically  controls  this  vast  corporation. 

Notwithstanding  the  fact  that  Lloyds  Braziliero  operates 
sixty-five  first-class  passenger  and  cargo  steamers,  built  in  Eng- 
land and  Scotland,  it  is  from  time  to  time  adding  others  to  its 
fleet  fitted  with  the  latest  improvements. 

This  company  has  successfully  accomplished  the  great  under- 
taking of  navigating  the  vast  network  of  streams  watering  almost 
all  of  Brazil.  In  addition  to  this  extensive  local  trade  with  the 
interior,  they  maintain  a  coasting  service  of  first-class  steamers 


HOW  TO  GET  THERE.  7 

which  call  at  the  numerous  ports  along  the  coast  for  five  thousand 
miles,  from  Manaos,  one  thousand  miles  up  the  Amazon,  to  the 
extreme  southerly  point  of  Rio  Grande  de  Sul,  thence  to  Mon- 
tevideo and  Buenos  Aires,  on  the  Rio  de  La  Plata. 

The  writer,  who  has  enjoyed  pleasant  sailings  to  and  from 
South  America  by  the  several  ships  of  the  different  lines,  selected 
the  Lloyd  Braziliero  steamer  for  this  trip,  principally  because  of 
personal  and  sentimental  considerations  and  also  for  business 
reasons.  This  is  the  only  line  whose  vessels  sail  through  to  Rio 
de  Janeiro  by  way  of  the  Windward  islands,  thence  to  Para  and 
down  the  coast,  and  the  accommodations  are  equally  as  good  as 
those  of  the  other  steamers,  and  the  same  rate  is  charged  for  the 
direct  shorter   voyage. 

In  addition  to  this,  I  desired  as  an  American  friend  of  Brazil, 
to  show  at  least  some  appreciation  by  patronizing  the  Lloyd 
Braziliero,  which  maintains,  in  the  face  of  severe  competition, 
this  excellent  service  to  New  York  and  proposes  to  extend  it  to 
New  Orleans.  It  may  be  stated  as  a  harsh  business  fact  that 
the  American  merchant,  although  anxious  to  extend  his  trade  to 
South  America  by  propaganda  and  circulation  of  advertising 
literature,  fails  to  lend  his  encouragement  to  the  Brazilian  enter- 
prise by  his  patronage.  By  preventing  a  return  to  the  steamship 
monopoly  of  transportation  this  might  be  returned  to  him  a 
hundredfold. 

Through  the  kindly  interest  and  courtesy  of  Mr.  W.  S. 
Raeburn,  the  American  agent,  and  Seiior  I.  C.  A.  de  Lima,  rep- 
resenting the  Lloyd  Braziliero  in  New  York,  passage  was  secured 
by  the  new  steamer  Goyaz,  advertised  to  sail  about  the  last  of 
June,  1909,  the  best  accommodations  available  in  a  deck  cabin 
being  especially  reserved  for  the  "Americano." 

Having  had  some  experience  in  tropical  travel,  I  limited  my 
preparations  to  packing  some  summer  clothing,  which  was  easily 
contained  in  a  suit  case.  A  hasty  exit  by  a  midnight  train  from 
the  capital  was  necessary  in  order  to  catch  the  steamer  advertised 
to  sail  at  eleven  A.  M.  the  following  day. 


8  AX  AMERICAN  COx\SUL  IN  AMAZON  J  A. 

It  should  be  explained  to  those  hustling  travelers  who  con- 
template a  voyage  by  the  Lloyd  Braziliero,  and  perhaps  any  other 
Latin-American  steamers,  that  the  steamship  officials  are  never 
in  a  hurry,  absolutely  never,  and,  I  might  add,  the  vessels  seldom 
depart  or  arrive  on  the  hour  or  day  advertised. 

I  was  a  nervous  traveler  on  the  train  to  New  York,  fearing 
that  something  might  happen  to  prevent  our  reaching  there  at 
eight  A.  M.  Arriving  safely  in  New  York,  1  hurried  by  ferry 
to  Brooklyn,  without  stopping  to  breakfast,  and  at  ten  A.  M. 
succeeded,  after  some  trouble,  in  locating  the  Goyaz  at  the  Bush 
docks,  a  mile  or  so  distant,  in  South  Brooklyn.  The  vessel  was 
snugly  tied  to  the  pier  between  big  warehouses  that  fairly  con- 
cealed her. 

Hastening  breathlessly  up  the  gangway,  with  grip  in  hand, 
and  almost  exhausted,  I  encountered  a  custom  house  employee, 
apparently  the  only  official  on  board.  He  told  me  the  steamer 
would  not  sail  until  late  that  night,  whereupon  T  nearly  collapsed, 
and  had  to  take  a  vermouth. 

The  chief  steward,  who  could  not  speak  a  word  of  English, 
but  had  no  doubt  been  apprised  that  an  American  was  to  join  the 
ship,  escorted  me  to  the  room  reserved  for  an  Americano.  Pres- 
ently a  young  man  in  uniform  visited  my  room,  and  courteously 
invited  me  to  breakfast,  which  was  then  being  served  to  the 
ship's  officers  in  the  saloon. 

And,  by  the  way,  one  of  the  several  good  reasons  why  pros- 
pective American  traders,  investors,  or  commercial  men  should 
patronize  the  Lloyd  Braziliero  is  that  the  voyage  of  a  fortnight 
or  more,  with  the  necessary  close  communion  on  board,  affords 
an  excellent  opportunity  for  the  student  to  practice  speaking  and 
acquiring  the  accent  of  the  Portuguese  language.  Where  one  is 
obliged  to  give  his  entire  attention,  he  soon  learns  how  to  ask 
for  food  or  the  ordinary  requirements  of  everyday  life. 

Another  advantage  in  taking  the  Brazilian  line  is  that  the 
passenger  may  become  accustomed  to  the  Portuguese  dishes. 
Good  claret  wine  is  served  with  each  meal  the  same  as  in  Brazil. 


Captain    Win.    '111.   Meissner,    S.    S.    (jnyaz,    with    kind    regards   to 
Major  Jos.   Orton   Kcrbey. 


now  TO  GET  THERE.  9 

Special  American  cooking  is  provided  to  suit  the  taste  of  those 
who  prefer  it. 

As  the  captain  was  not  yet  aboard,  and  it  being  a  pleasant 
Saturday  afternoon,  I  strolled  through  the  dirty  streets  of  South 
Brooklyn,  which  I  discovered  was  not  far  from  Coney  Island. 
As  the  Goyaz  was  not  to  sail  until  after  midnight,  I  availed  my- 
self of  the  opportunity  to  spend  the  last  few  hours  on  shore  in 
looking  on  at  the  joyous  crowds  that  visit  the  jolly  island  on 
Saturday  evenings  in  June. 

Returning  to  the  ship  about  nine  P.  M.,  I  learned  that  she 
would  not  sail  until  the  afternoon  of  Sunday.  As  there  were 
but  few  persons  on  board,  and  all  was  quiet,  I  retired  early, 
and  slept  peacefully  in  the  close  quarters,  after  an  all-night  ride 
and  a  day  of  hustling. 

I  was  the  first  on  deck  for  coffee,  and  therefore  enjoyed  an 
early  and  hearty  Sunday  morning  greeting  from  the  captain. 
His  name  had  escaped  me,  but  I  at  once  gladly  recognized  in 
him  my  old  friend,  Captain  William  Th.  Meissner,  whom  I  had 
known  as  an  officer  of  the  defunct  American  line.  He  had  once 
shocked  my  dignity  by  unexpectedly  firing  the  ship's  gun  as  a 
complimentary  salute  to  a  visiting  consul  at  Para.  His  friendly 
greeting  after  many  years  was  scarcely  less  noisy,  and  quite  as 
sincere  as  the  customary  salute  on  the  Amazon. 

Captain  Meissner  was  originally  a  German-American  citizen, 
but  for  many  years  has  been  a  naturalized  Brazilian,  which  is  a 
necessary  requirement  of  all  who  hold  important  positions  in  Bra- 
zil. He  has  spent  a  lifetime  in  this  service,  and  is  one  of  the 
most  popular  captains,  and  a  man  well  qualified  to  give  reliable 
information  and  advice  to  those  traveling  to  Brazil. 

As  the  reader  will  travel  with  us  on  this  voyage,  in  im- 
agination, and  the  jolly  captain  will  relate  some  experiences  and 
contribute  much  valuable  information,  I  beg  to  present  my  genial 
friend  through  the  attached  photograph. 

To  the  usual  first  question  of  a  passenger  as  to  when  we 
would  get  away,  the  captain  replied  with  an  air  of  disgust,  "Oh, 
it's  Manana,"  vou  know. 


10  AN  AMERICAN  CONSUL  IN  AMAZONIA. 

"We  cannot  leave  the  dock  until  tomorrow,  because  some 
one  in  the  ofifice  forgot  that  yesterday  was  Saturday,  a  half  holi- 
day, and  when  we  called  for  the  ship's  clearance  papers  in  the 
afternoon,  found  the  offices  closed,  and  the  consul  gone  to  Coney 
Island,  so  there  is  nothing  else  to  do  but  wait  patiently  until 
after  business  hours  on  Monday." 

There  were  a  number  of  passengers  and  their  friends  on 
board  to  say  their  farewells,  and  though  there  may  have  been 
disappointments  among  them,  there  was  no  appearance  of  an- 
noyance, all  being  in  their  usual  holiday  or  Sunday  good  humor, 
especially  the  groups  of  well-groomed  young  students  who  were 
laughing  or  talking  all  at  once  and  incessantly. 

Some  of  the  young  men  spent  the  Sunday  afternoon  or 
night  at  Coney,  and  by  the  way,  their  joy  at  returning  home  was 
clouded  by  the  regret  of  leaving  Coney  Island  behind.  One  ob- 
tained the  impression  from  the  animated  conversations  that  they 
appreciated  "Coney"  more  than  any  other  part  of  America. 

All  day  Sunday  the  broad  decks  of  the  Goyaz  were  crowded, 
practically  with  Brazilian  visitors,  happy  and  yet  regretful  that 
they  were  not  all  returning  to  their  country. 

An  extra  menu  had  been  arranged  for  the  usual  Sunday 
dinner,  to  which  all  on  board  were  courteously  invited  by  the 
captain,  and  I  may  say  a  jollier  or  happier  occasion  has  not  oc- 
curred in  my  travels  on  many  steamers. 

Monday  was  a  busy  day  on  board.  The  officers  having  pro- 
cured the  necessary  documents,  we  were  ready  to  sail,  but  an- 
other delay  was  occasioned  by  having  to  wait  the  convenience 
of  a  tug  to  haul  us  out  into  the  stream. 

About  sundown,  without  any  fuss  or  excitement,  the  big 
ship  silently  glided  away  from  its  piers  out  into  the  broad  river, 
and  as  soon  as  she  straightened  up,  the  engines  were  rung  ahead 
and  we  were  off,  sailing  gracefully  down  the  bay  in  the  twilight 
of  a  June  day,  bound  for  the  "Land  of  Tomorrow"  to  which  I 
had  several  times  voyaged,  but  I  do  not  recall  "a  night  in  June" 
that  -reated  more  agreeable  anticipations. 


HOW  TO  GET  THERE.  ii 

I  Stood  alone  by  the  forward  rail,  looking  so  intently  at  the 
receding  shores  of  "God's  Country,"  the  land  we  love,  that  I 
forgot  the  dinner  hour,  until  looking  around  I  found  myself  the 
only  one  on  deck.  On  going  below,  the  jolly  captain  jokingly 
spoke  of  my  getting  seasick  very  soon  for  an  old  sailor. 

The  writer  was  honored  by  a  seat  alongside  the  captain,  the 
adjacent  chairs  being  occupied  by  the  surgeon  and  one  of  the 
ship's  officers,  neither  of  whom  spoke  a  word  of  English,  but  I 
thought  from  their  close  attention  they  both  understood  the  Eng- 
lish of  the  captain  and  myself. 

The  surgeon  impressed  all  the  Brazilians  as  a  morose  young 
doctor,  who  entertained  an  exalted  opinion  of  his  position  and 
profession.  It  was  a  relief  to  know  that,  during  all  the  long 
voyage,  I  did  not  have  occasion  to  seek  his  professional  service, 
nor  attempt  to  break  through  his  reserve  by  conversation. 

On  most  steamers  it  is  the  first  officer  who  sails  the  ship, 
and  it  is  said  the  principal  duty  of  the  captain  on  a  liner  is  to 
tell  lies  to  the  lady  passengers  about  the  ship's  position.  During 
this  voyage  on  the  Goyaz,  our  "first  officer,"  or  "immediato," 
was  never  in  evidence  except  at  meal  times.  He  was  a  very 
courteous  officer  of  the  Brazilian  navy  detailed  for  this  com- 
mercial service  in  time  of  peace.  There  was  but  one  lady  pas- 
senger on  board,  the  pretty  wife  (and  baby)  of  a  Greek  or  Servian 
merchant,  returning  to  his  business  at  Maranhao.  This  lady  un- 
derstood no  language  but  her  own. 

We  had  also  a  very  sick  naval  officer  with  a  companion  and 
attendant,  who  was  being  sent  home  to  Brazil  to  die  from  tuber- 
culosis, which  he  had  contracted  on  the  Brazilian  cruise  to  the 
colder  and  inhospitable  latitudes  of  the  Pacific. 

This  young  officer  occupied  a  steamer  chair  during  all  the 
days,  gazing  at  the  sky  and  sea,  too  weak  to  help  himself  and 
only  able  to  speak  in  a  whisper.  Every  attention  was  given  the 
poor  fellow,  whose  only  trouble  seemed  to  be  that  the  ship  might 
be  delayed,  thereby  preventing  his  last  longing,  to  die  in  his  own 
land. 


i>  AX  A.MERICAX  CONSUL  IX  A.MAZOXIA. 

Brazilians  love  their  country  with  an  intensity  that  we  North 
Americanos  cannot  understand. 

A  majority  of  the  passengers  were  young  BraziHan  students 
of  several  American  colleges,  returning  to  spend  their  vacation 
at  home.  Between  them  and  the  writer  an  atmosphere  of  kindly 
fellowship  developed  a  friendship  which  I  am  glad  to  note  has 
been  maintained.  As  it  is  understood  that  some  account  of  the 
voyage  would  be  published  by  the  American  writer,  I  do  not 
offend  the  proprieties  by  printing  their  names  any  more  than  I 
should  by  personally  introducing  each  separately  to  the  readers 
as,  Dr.  H.  Oswaldo  de  Miranda,  of  Para,  Brazil,  a  student  of 
the  medical  department  of  the  University  of  Pennsylvania,  at 
Philadelphia,  a  handsome  and  intelligent  young  man  of  probably 
twenty-three,  whose  family  was  well  known  in  Brazil,  the  name 
Miranda  connecting  him  with  the  oldest  historic  families.  Mi- 
randa, as  he  is  familiarly  known,  is  a  very  pleasant  young  man, 
wearing  glasses,  but  having  been  interested  in  athletics  at  the 
University  of  Pennsylvania,  three  years,  he  sometimes  parts  with 
his  dignity  and  joins  in  the  hilarity. 

The  two  fine-looking,  large  able-bodied  brothers  of  about 
nineteen  and  twenty-one  respectively,  named  Humberto  and  Al- 
miro  Guimaraes,  are  the  sons  of  a  distinguished  ex-naval  officer, 
now  the  owner  of  steamers  plying  on  the  Amazon. 

The  two  handsome  boys  have  been  at  the  Peddie  Institute, 
of  New  Jersey,  during  three  years,  and  being  apt  scholars,  they 
have  acquired  a  grasp  of  English  which  they  use  quite  freely 
with  scarcely  an  accent.  They  are  of  the  most  refined  families 
of  Para,  as  the  writer  can  cheerfully  testify  from  pleasant  per- 
sonal visits  to  their  homes. 

Elmiro  Miller  is  the  son  of  a  German- American  who  married 
in  Brazil,  and  became  the  wealthy  and  influential  owner  of  the 
large  naval  or  .shipping  plant  at  Para,  answering  to  our  ship- 
yards at  Philadelphia. 

Young  Miller  finished  at  the  preparatory  school  at  Peddie, 
and  is  now  attending  the  Bliss  Institution,  at  Wa.shington,  D.  C., 


HOW  TO  GET  THERE.  13 

with  a  view  of  fitting  himself  to  become  the  manager  of  his 
father's  plant  at  Para.  Miller  is  a  jolly,  goodhearted  boy  who 
finds  the  engineers  and  officers  on  board  congenial  friends. 

There  was  also  the  son  of  an  American  missionary  whose 
name  I  have  lost,  who  with  a  friend  attended  a  dental  college  in 
Baltimore.  They  were  on  their  way  to  establish  a  practice  in 
Pernambuco. 

Perhaps  the  most  prominent  of  the  young  Brazilians  was  a 
young  man  of  a  well-known  Rio  family  named  Rodrigo  Vianna, 
who  had  left  his  home  two  years  previously  to  seek  his  fortune 
in  America,  among  entire  strangers.  His  story  is  interesting, 
as  indicating  the  possibilities  of  extending  American  trade  to 
Brazil  by  young  Brazilians. 

Vianna,  with  but  an  imperfect  knowledge  of  English,  found 
difficulties  in  getting  employment,  but,  being  of  an  energetic  and 
determined  character,  he  was  not  ashamed  to  sell  fruit  at  Coney 
Island  until  he  found  more  congenial  employment  through  a 
Spanish  friend  of  Porto  Rico,  whose  name  I  regret  to  have  lost, 
whom  I  met  on  board  the  Goyaz  before  sailing. 

This  young  Porto  Rican,  now  a  manager  for  the  Copeland- 
Raymond  Company,  the  largest  shippers  of  flour  to  South  Amer- 
ica, gave  Vianna  employment  with  the  firm.  The  managers 
finding  him  capable  and  more  energetic  than  the  usual  South 
Americans,  he  was  soon  advanced  in  the  business  and  is  return- 
ing now  to  Brazil  as  the  representative  of  that  firm,  with  com- 
missions from  a  number  of  other  large  American  business  houses. 

I  take  the  opportunity  to  suggest  that  the  American  firms 
desirous  of  extending  their  business  would  do  well  to  follow  this 
example  by  securing  the  services  of  the  young  Brazilians  in  in- 
troducing their  wares  in  Brazil,  rather  than  by  depending  on  the 
efforts  of  the  usual  American  hustling  commercial  travelers  who, 
through  lack  of  tact  and  un familiarity  with  the  language  and 
customs  of  the  country,  succeed  in  antagonizing  those  he  would 
"patronize."  There  is  too  much  "patronizing"  in  our  intercourse 
with  our  Latin-American  brothers. 


14  AN  AMERICAN  CONSUL  IN  AMAZONIA. 

Of  the  full  complement  of  passengers  aboard  the  Goyaz,  the 
writer  was  the  only  North  American ;  and  probably  out  of  sym- 
pathy or  respect  for  a  veteran  who,  the  captain  told  them  had 
been  through  two  revolutions,  the  Brazilian  boys  vied  with  each 
other  in  respectful  consideration  of  "O  Consul  Americano,"  as 
they  persisted  in  calling  one  whom  they  recognized  as  a  friend 
of  the  Latins. 


CHAPTER    II. 

ROUTINE   ABOARD    A    BRAZILIAN    STEAMER. 

TEAMERS  sailing  the  southern  sunny 
seas  are  constructed  especially  for  com- 
fort in  tropical  travel,  having  as  far  as 
possible  the  "camorottes"  or  cabins  on 
the  upper  deck,  the  promenades  being 
also  provided  with  awnings  and  conveni- 
ent fastenings  from  which  to  swing  ham- 
mocks.    The  saloons  and  cabins,  as  well 

as  the  decks  and  smoking-rooms,  are  fitted  with  electric  fans  and 

lights  and  are  well  ventilated. 

The  steamers  to  Brazil,  as  a  rule,  are  good  sailors,  being  of 
generous  beam  and  provided  with  bilge  keels,  which  check  the 
tendency  to  too  much  rolling  in  a  rough  sea.  They  are  of  light 
draught,  easily  handled  in  the  harbors,  and  are  built  for  business 
rather  than  for  speed.  They  can,  however,  on  occasion,  make  a 
good  average,  but  time  or  mileage  is  not  so  much  of  a  considera- 
tion as  economy  of  fuel,  in  a  land  where  all  the  coal  used  by  hun- 
dreds of  steamers  is  brought  three  thousands  miles,  from  England 
to  Brazil. 

The  traveler  who  attempts  to  hustle  the  steamship  service 
should  keep  in  mind  President  Taft's  recent  suggestion  that  it 
is  unwise  in  dealing  with  the  Latins,  or  in  dealing  with  anything 
in  the  tropics,  to  suppose  that  you  are  going  to  make  headway 
suddenly. 

The  Brazilian  ships  are  kept  fresh  and  clean  through  the 
customary  washing  of  the  decks  in  the  early  morning,  and  the 
daily  polishing  within. 

I  happen  to  be  one  of  those  uncomfortable  beings  addicted 
to  the  early  rising  habit,  being  usually  the  first  to  sit  down  to 


i6  AX  AMERICAN  CONSUL  IN  AMAZONIA. 

the  "el  desayuno,"  or  early  cup  of  coffee,  after  the  bath,  which 
is  served  about  six  A.  M.  on  all  steamers.  On  going  above  to 
get  fresh  air  and  take  the  usual  observations  from  which  I  find 
the  same  old  waves  and  skies  that  surrounded  us  when  we  re- 
tired the  night  before,  I  invariably  encountered  a  brace  of  bare- 
footed, hatless  Portuguese  sailors  with  hose  and  mops  promis- 
cuously squirting  water  around  as  if  the  ship  were  afire,  com- 
pelling one  to  dance  or  do  acrobatic  stunts  in  getting  on  benches, 
or  trying  to  climb  into  the  riggings  or  straddling  the  rail  to  es- 
cape a  shower-bath,  to  the  great  amusement  of  the  sailors. 

The  one  thing  that  all  ship's  skippers  will  do  in  stormy  or 
windy  weather  is  to  wash  down  the  decks,  even  in  a  driving  rain, 
«  or  if  the  decks  are  awash  from  the  ship's  rolling  in  a  heavy  sea. 
It  is  supposed  that  all  the  passengers  are  or  ought  to  be  in  their 
berths  until  the  sun  dries  the  deck.  The  Brazilian  ships  are  no 
exception  to  this  rule.  I  was  once  on  a  crowded  steamer  from 
Lisbon  to  Havre,  having  a  French  opera  troupe  in  second  cabin. 
The  girls  were  annoyed  by  the  sailors  and  hose  when  they  as- 
sembled on  deck  and  made  a  charge  on  their  tormentors,  seizing 
the  hose  and,  with  screams  of  laughter,  succeeded  in  turning  the 
stream  on  the  crew,  and  unintentionally  wetting  themselves  and 
everyone  on  deck,  by  their  awkward  handling  of  the  nozzle. 

After  a  day  or  two  at  sea  from  New  York  to  the  islands  or 
to  South  America,  the  ship  must  cross  the  Gulf  Stream,  which, 
in  conjunction  with  the  bad  reputation  of  Hatteras,  compels  most 
passengers  to  pay  tribute  to  old  Neptune  or  retire  to  their  rooms 
for  a  day  of  meditation,  though  few  seasick  persons  have  enough 
leisure  to  pray. 

Some  seasick  passengers  think  they  will  surely  die,  while 
others  are  only  afraid  they  will  not.  It  is  at  such  a  time  the 
American  as  well  as  the  Brazilian  passengers  fail  to  appreciate 
the  odors  from  the  galley  and  reject  with  wry  faces  the  kind 
oft'ers  of  fancy  dishes  of  Portuguese  cooking,  especially  the  na- 
tional concoction  of  dried  codfish,  onions  or  garlic,  and  other 
healthy  but  unknown  ingredients  called  "Bacallao,"  pronounced 
reverently,  ba-ca-lowe. 


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ROUTINE  ABOARD  A   BRAZILIAN   STEAMER.  17 

Captain  Meissner,  of  the  Goyaz,  insists  upon  his  steward 
serving  English  or  German  dishes  with  the  various  Spanish  or 
Portuguese  stews,  requiring  oatmeal  or  cereal  foods  at  each 
breakfast.  He  tells  me  good  naturedly  that  once  his  officers  and 
crew  threatened  mutiny,  and  with  the  engineers  complained  to 
the  Rio  management  about  the  American  grub,  declaring  that  it 
weakened  them.  So  the  engineer  said,  "I  can  hardly  turn  a 
crank."    They  emphatically  reject  oatmeal  and  cereals. 

The  writer,  who  has  lived  in  boarding  houses  for  a  long 
time,  is  not  a  kicker,  finding  the  steamer  fare  equally  as  good  as 
the  ordinary,  and  suggests  that  the  claret  wine  supplied  at  each 
meal,  free  of  cost,  may  help  to  wash  the  bad  taste  out  of  the 
chronic  growler's  mouth. 

Crossing  the  "Gulf,"  as  they  call  the  Gulf  Stream,  the  ship 
glides  into  a  summer  sea  of  blue  sky  and  water.  I  do  not  know 
the  latitude,  but  it  is  charted  on  my  memory  as  the  place  to 
shed  overcoats  in  the  winter,  or  to  don  light  apparel  in  any  sea- 
son. All  passengers  now  come  out  of  their  rooms  and  straggle 
on  deck  to  enjoy  the  fresh,  bracing  air  and  sun,  good  naturedly 
staggering  about  the  decks  until  they  get  on  their  sea  legs.  The 
pleasant  summer  evenings,  or  perhaps  the  blue  sky  and  sea,  seem 
to  have  the  agreeable  effect  of  uniting  the  passengers  in  a  social 
way,  quite  in  contrast  with  the  formality  usually  observed  on  the 
big  Atlantic  liners.  Our  ship's  company  seemed  indeed  like  a 
party  of  boys  just  from  school  on  their  way  to  their  homes  and 
the  country. 

Senhor  Rodrigo  Vianna  was  easily  the  leader  and  promoter  of 
entertainment  on  board,  in  which  all  took  a  part,  even  the  pretty 
young  wife  and  the  ugly  Greek  husband,  neither  of  whom  under- 
stood any  language  other  than  their  own,  entering  with  zest  and 
spirit  into  the  youthful  games  of  "forfeit"  which  are  played  at 
adult  gatherings  in  Brazil. 

We  were  all  boys  together  again,  and  even  resorted  to  a 
lively  game  of  leap-frog  on  the  deck,  the  antics  of  which  amused 
the  lady,  who  laughingly  declined  Vianna's  polite  invitation  to 


The  Brazilian  students  amuse  themselves  aboard  the  "Goyaz"  during 

the  long,  calm  days  in  the  tropic  seas  in  games,  affording 

exercise,   like   "leap    frog." 


ROUTINE  ABOARD  A   BRAZILIAN   STEAMER.  19 

join  the  line.  It  was  not  all  fun  for  Vianna,  however,  for  with 
an  eye  to  business  he  had  his  own  typewriting  machine  set  up 
on  a  table  in  the  grand  saloon,  and  occupied  himself  for  hours 
in  the  preparation  of  tables,  or  in  writing  letters  pertaining  to 
business,  which  were  mailed  on  arrival  in  Barbados. 

Vianna  had  thoroughly  informed  himself,  and  was  able  to 
show  in  exact  figures  the  amount  of  flour  and  other  cargo  on 
board,  amounting  to  thousands  of  packages,  consigned  princi- 
pally to  points  on  the  Amazon  and  northern  Brazil  and  the  coast 
cities  of  Para,  Maranhao,  Natal,  Parahiba,  Ceara  and  Recife. 

He  explained  that  it  was  at  this  point  of  Recife  or  Per- 
nambuco  where  the  two  great  flour  exporting  countries  (the 
United  States  and  Argentina)  met  in  fierce  competition,  with  the 
Argentine  steadily  advancing  to  the  north  and  the  American  lines 
receding. 

I  was  surprised  by  the  showing  that  the  shipments  of  Amer- 
ican flour  were  now  halted  at  Pernambuco,  the  Argentine  sup- 
plying the  several  states  south  and  the  cities  of  Rio  de  Janeiro 
and  Montevideo. 

His  business  mission  was  to  try  to  stem  the  tide  of  Argen- 
tine flour  and  wheat  by  shipping  American  flour  direct  to  north- 
ern Brazil,  through  favorable  rates  and  accommodation  of  Bra- 
zilian steamers. 

A  copy  of  the  ship's  papers  showed  a  varied  cargo,  all  of 
which  was  to  be  discharged  at  the  several  ports  in  northern 
Brazil,  enabling  the  steamer  Goyaz  to  take  another  cargo  from 
northern  Brazil  to  points  south.  Thus  the  Brazilian  Lloyd  steamer 
enjoys  the  profits  of  two  cargoes  on  the  one  trip  from  New  York 
to  Rio  de  Janeiro,  along  with  the  extensive  coasting  and  local 
trade  which  is  limited  to  the  Brazilian  flag. 

As  previously  indicated,  there  has  been  built  during  fifty 
years,  by  profitable  and  business  like  methods,  a  British  steam- 
ship corporation,  trading  exclusively  between  New  York  and 
Liverpool,  and  northern  Brazil  and  the  Amazon,  principally  from 
the  handling  of  American  cargo  and  passengers,  which  now  prac- 


ao  AN  AMERICAN  CONSUL  IN  AMAZONIA. 

tically  monopolizes  that  trade,  through  wharfage  and  dock  con- 
cessions from  the  Brazihan  state  governments.  These  conditions 
would  seem  to  ilkistrate  the  necessity  and  poHcy  of  establishing 
and  maintaining  an  American  line  by  subsidies,  under  govern- 
mental restrictions  that  would  also  insure  the  "free  navigation" 
of  the  Amazon  decreed  by  the  late  Emperor  Dom  Pedro  II. 

On  one  of  the  pleasant  evenings  after  the  dinner  hour,  while 
the  boys  were  having  one  of  their  usual  talkfests  forward,  with 
mandolin  and  cigarette  accompaniments,  and  Portuguese  songs  on 
the  side,  I  inveigled  the  old  man,  as  all  skippers  are  familiarly 
called,  into  a  comfortable  steamer  chair  alongside  aft  where  we 
sat,  American  fashion,  with  both  feet  on  the  rail,  nursing  pipes 
and  rearranging  the  past,  present  and  future  of  the  steamship 
service  betwen  North  and  South  America. 

The  captain  has  been  a  sailor  man  all  his  life,  principally 
in  this  trade  as  an  officer  of  the  defunct  American  line,  and  for 
many  years  occupying  an  important  position  ashore  in  Rio  for 
the  Brazilian  Government.  It  will  thus  be  seen  that  he  is  well 
qualified  to  discuss  the  several  questions  from  a  practical  and 
disinterested  standpoint. 

"Subventions,"  as  the  captain  terms  subsidies,  "are  all  right 
if  the  ships  or  lines  supposed  to  be  interested  get  the  money  that 
is  appropriated ;  but  you  know  that  the  promoters  or  agents  and 
lobbyist  have  the  first  whack  at  the  grab  bag,  and,  after  they  are 
through,  there  is  not  much  left  for  the  actual  benefit  of  the 
service." 

"You  know,  as  Consul  to  Para,  that  the  American  line  ob- 
tained a  very  liberal  sum  from  Brazil  for  each  voyage  of  the 
American  vessels  and  were  really  doing  very  well,  earning,  it  is 
said,  as  much  as  $20,000  on  one  trip." 

The  general  opinion  obtained  that  it  was  because  of  the  ex- 
travagant management  ashore  that  influenced  Congress  against 
granting  the  subsidies. 

The  English  lines  of  northern  Brazil  and  the  Amazon  re- 
ceived a  liberal  sum  from  the  State  of  Amazonas  for  extending 


ROUTINE  ABOARD  A  BRAZILIAN   STEAMER.  21 

a  regular  fortnightly  service  up  the  Amazon,  one  thousand  miles, 
to  Manaos,  to  which  the  Peruvian  Government  also  contributed 
for  extending  the  ocean  service  another  one  thousand  miles  to 
Iquitos,  in  Peru. 

"The  objections  to  subventions,"  continued  the  captain,  "is 
that  they  impose  conditions  which  in  practical  application  nullify 
the  advantages,  in  the  way  of  requiring  free  transportation  to 
officials  and  their  friends,  with  fines  or  penalties  exacted  for 
trifling  and  unintentional  violations  of  the  subsidized  contract." 

It  is  said  that  the  state  practically  canceled  the  promised 
cash  subsidies  by  frequent  fines  or  penalties  and  requirements. 
The  English  companies  subsequently  declined  to  accept  the  sub- 
ventions, but  have  continued  advancing  the  business  and  very 
greatly  increased  the  service  without  any  subventions,  and  are 
now  expending  millions  of  dollars  in  dock  improvements  on  the 
Amazon. 

The  apparent  advantage  to  any  line  working  under  subsidies 
from  the  government  is  in  the  official  connection  which  gives  that 
service  a  standing  they  would  not  otherwise  obtain.  It  probably 
has  the  additional  effect  of  insuring  regular  sailings  regulated  by 
the  postal  authorities.  It  is  probably  due  to  the  Brazilian  Gov- 
ernment that  the  service  to  New  York  is  maintained  to  our  ad- 
vantage. 

In  discussing  the  question  of  direct  steamship  communication 
between  the  southern  ports  of  New  Orleans,  Mobile  and  Para, 
referred  to  in  consular  reports,  the  captain,  after  deliberately 
refilling  his  pipe  and  drawing  for  inspiration,  continued,  "That 
is  a  matter  strangely  overlooked  by  the  southern  cities  and  river 
transportation  interests."  Then,  after  a  few  silent  whiffs,  he 
continued,  "We  are  now  in  about  the  same  latitude  as  New  Or- 
leans, 30°  north,  and  probably  a  thousand  miles  east  of  New* 
Orleans,  approximately  in  longtitude  70°,  about  equidistant  from 
New  Orleans  and  New  York." 

As  the  ship  sails  it  is  a  little  further  from  New  Orleans  to 
Para  (three  thousand,  one  hundred  and  thirty-six  nautical  miles) 


22  AN  AMERICAN  CONSUL  IN  AMAZONIA. 

than  from  New  York  to  Para  (two  thousand,  nine  hundred  and 
fifteen  nautical  miles).  But  as  the  bird  flies,  and  the  ships  could 
sail,  the  distance  from  New  Orleans  to  Para  may  be  very  much 
shortened  by  taking  the  more  direct  route  south  of  Cuba  and 
Jamaica,  by  way  of  Barbados. 

The  advantage  of  New  Orleans  and  Mobile,  however,  as 
points  of  departure,  is  not  so  much  in  the  shortening  of  the 
mileage  as  in  the  fact  that  New  Orleans  and  Mobile  and  Florida 
harbors  offer  equally  as  good  facilities  as  New  York,  at  less  cost. 
Sailing  from  southern  ports  will  necessarily  avoid  the  always 
inhospitable  and  dangerous  Atlantic  Coast  and  the  Gulf  Stream 
and  Hatteras,  and  serve  to  develop  the  southern  ports,  and  be  a 
step  in  forwarding  southern  and  western  enterprise. 

New  Orleans  is  a  logical  point  where  American  communi- 
cations with  northern  Brazil  and  the  Amazon  should  center.  The 
ideal  cities  of  Para  and  New  Orleans  are  alike  in  many  respects, 
both  being  the  seaports  of  the  greatest  rivers  of  the  earth,  each 
located  about  the  same  distance  from  the  delta  or  mouths  of 
their  respective  rivers,  and,  it  may  be  added,  both  are  on  low 
lying  ground,  surrounded  by  fresh  water,  and  at  one  time  both 
enjoyed  the  dubious  reputation  of  being  located  on  the  zone  of 
unhealth fulness.  But  yellow  fever  and  its  kindred  ill  are  no 
longer  the  bugaboo  for  either. 

Another  of  the  claims  of  New  Orleans  as  a  shii)ping  port 
for  the  Amazon  trade,  in  addition  to  the  unlimited  water  front, 
with  both  rail  and  river  facilities  for  interior  communications, 
it  may  be  added,  incidentally,  is  the  rehabilitation  of  New  Or- 
leans as  a  great  seaport  for  South  and  Central  America  and  the 
Panama  Canal. 

I  suggested  to  the  captain  that  all  the  cargo  on  board  of 
•his  ship  had  undoubtedly  originated  in  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi 
valleys,  especially  the  thousands  of  packages  of  flour,  bacon,  lard 
and  canned  goods,  kerosene  and  machinery,  all  of  which  had  been 
hauled  by  the  railroads  from  the  West  over  the  mountains  to 
New  York,  to  be  handled  again  in  loading  on  the  steamers,  whicTi 


ROUTINE  ABOARD  A  BRAZILIAN  STEAMER.  23 

must  double  back  on  the  coast  to  the  latitude  of  New  Orleans, 
which  port  it  might  better  have  reached  by  river  in  the  first 
place,  and  have  been  more  conveniently  transferred  to  the  ship 
alongside  with  but  one  handling. 

The  captain  confessed  he  had  not  thought  of  the  matter  in 
that  light,  and  suggested  that  there  were  others  like  himself  who 
had  traveled  so  long  in  certain  lines  that  their  ideas  did  not  get 
out  of  the  rut  or  beaten  channel. 

He  suggested,  however,  that  New  York  possessed  the  ad- 
vantages of  a  large  trade,  which  assured  visiting  ships  a  return 
cargo,  which  New  Orleans  and  Para  did  not  possess.  To  this  it 
may  be  replied:  The  mighty  Amazon,  with  its  many  thousand 
miles  of  navigable  affluents,  produces  in  abundance  those  articles 
which  the  world's  civilization  requires  and  must  have  at  a  fair 
price,  namely :  sixty  million  dollars'  worth  a  year  of  rubber,  one 
hundred  million  dollars'  worth  a  year  of  coffee,  with  millions  of 
dollars'  worth  more  of  sugar  and  cocoa,  mate  or  mace,  hardwoods, 
dyes  and  materia  medica  products,  also  cotton,  tobacco  and  the 
future  unbounded  agricultural  possibilities,  as  well  as  the  natural 
resources  of  the  Brazilian  forest. 

The  great  Ohio  and  Mississippi  valleys  especially  require 
these  products  of  the  Amazon  valley,  which  cannot  be  grown  any- 
where else,  and  in  exchange  of¥er  ship  loads  of  the  products  of 
our  great  West,  which  are  necessary  for  the  Amazon  civilization, 
but  which  cannot  be  produced  in  that  latitude  or  climate,  namely : 
flour,  corn,  bacon,  lard,  agricultural  and  other  machinery,  canned 
goods,  and  especially  kerosene  and  coal,  all  of  which  the  Ohio 
and  Mississippi  valleys  can  supply  in  unlimited  quantities. 

The  proposition  is  for  a  fair  exchange  of  the  separate  prod- 
ucts of  the  two  countries  by  uniting  the  two  great  rivers  of  the 
earth  by  direct  steamship  lines,  connecting  the  twin  cities  of  the 
southern  seas,  New  Orleans  and  Para. 

If  regular  sailings  were  made  from  New  Orleans  to  Brazil 
by  this  route,  passengers  could  travel  comfortably  by  rail  to  join 
the  steamer  at  New  Orleans  or  Key  West,  thus  avoiding  several 


24  AN  AMERICAN  CONSUL  IN  AMAZONIA. 

days  of  rough  sea  passage  along  the  coast,  shortening  the  sea 
voyage  considerably,  while  adding  to  its  interest  and  affording 
opportunities  for  business  connections  with  the  islands. 

The  return  journey  can  be  made  even  in  less  time  through 
the  Caribbean  Sea,  from  Barbados  to  Jamaica,  and  direct  to  the 
Yucatan  channel  to  New  Orleans  or  Mobile  and  Key  West. 

It  is  well  known  that  the  powerful  equatorial  current,  flow- 
ing northerly  from  the  Amazon  to  Barbados,  enters  the  Carib- 
bean Sea,  where  it  forms  the  Gulf  Stream,  going  past  Jamaica 
and  Cuba  to  Key  West.  This  is  a  great  assistance  to  ships  travel- 
ins:  in  that  direction. 


CHAPTER    III. 

HISTORIC   ROUTE — DETAILING    STEAMSHIP    INTERESTS. 

HE  voyager  from  New  York  to  Brazil  via 
the  West  Indies  leaves  Bermuda  and  the 
Bahamas  far  to  the  west,  seldom  getting 
in  sight  of  the  first  landfall  of  Columbus, 
which  is  supposed  to  be  Watling  or  Cat 
Island,  a  low-lying,  barren  spot  that  looks 
from  a  distance  like  the  dark  shadow  of  a 
reflected  cloud  on  the  blue  waters. 
No  doubt  Columbus  was  as  glad  at  this  first  sight  of  land 
as  were  some  of  the  seasick  boys  of  our  party,    when  they  dis- 
covered, through  the  darkness,  the  radiance  of  the  Sombrero 
Lighthouse. 

The  illustrations  show  photographic  views  and  a  copy  of 
Lady  Blake's  celebrated  water  color  of  Columbus'  landfall. 

There  is  also  the  bay  in  which  Columbus  landed  for  water 
for  his  crew,  as  also  the  ground  on  which  he  first  set  foot  on  the 
island,  on  the  twelfth  of  October,  1492. 

The  suggested  journey  from  New  Orleans  or  Mobile,  with 
a  call  at  Tampa,  Key  ^  West,  or  Havana,  along  the  north  coast 
of  Cuba  and  Santo  Domingo,  would  afford  the  tourist  an  oppor- 
tunity for  visiting  numerous  historical  points  of  mterest  on  the 
Island  of  Santo  Domingo  and  the  city  of  the  same  name,  which 
is  situated  on  the  southern  side,  among  which  are  the  ruins  of 
the  first  cathedral  on  American  soil,  the  Boredor  vaults  and  the 
remains  of  Columbus  and  his  son  Diego,  the  urn  or  casket,  and 
also  the  burial  place  and  house  of  the  cacique  who  befriended 
Columbus.  The  place  where  the  wreckage  of  the  Santa  Maria 
was  brought  and  the  anchor  found  on  the  spot,  also  ruins  of  the 
citadel  and  first  castle  erected  in  America,  the  convent  of  San 


26  AN  AMERICAN  CONSUL  IN  AMAZONIA. 

Francisco,  burial  place  of  Alonzo  cle  Ojeda,  and  the  ruins  of  the 
first  university  where  Las  Casas  resided. 

Cokmibus  discovered  the  Island  of  Haiti  and  Santo  Domingo 
on  his  first  voyage,  December  6,  1492,  and  established  the  City 
of  Santo  Domingo  on  his  second  visit,  in  1493. 

His  brave  followers  exterminated  the  native  males  in  a  brief 
period,  but  the  Indian  type  of  face  is  still  to  be  seen  in  Santo 
Domingo  among  the  Spanish  residents. 

Ella  Wheeler  Wilcox  says  that  "most  of  the  butchery  was 
done  in  the  name  of  religion.  To  convert  and  to  save  the  poor 
native  was  the  burning  desire  of  the  invading  Spaniard.  Rather 
than  have  them  live  unconverted,  they  butchered  them,  but  be- 
fore they  murdered  them  they  were  baptized." 

Sir  Francis  Treve,  in  his  book,  "The  Cradle  of  the  Deep," 
says,  "In  1505  negro  slaves  were  brought  to  Haiti.  It  was  the 
squalid  beginning  of  a  terrible  end.  These  miserable  beings  could 
hardly  crawl  out  of  the  boats  where  for  weeks  they  had  been 
cramped  in  a  putrid  hold,  their  bodies  indented  by  the  marks 
of  the  planks.  Huddled  together  like  frightened  animals,  they 
whisked  flies  from  the  sores  left  by  the  lash  of  the  whip.  Some 
died ;  all  were  famishing  for  food  and  were  wild-eyed  with 
alarm."  Can  we  wonder  that  the  descendants  of  these  wretched 
beings  of  this  most  beautiful  and  historic  island  today  are  incom- 
petent to  cope  with  existing  conditions? 

From  the  deck  of  the  ship  in  the  harbor  of  Santo  Domingo 
the  tourist  is  shown  the  very  silk-wood  tree  to  which  Columbus 
tied  his  boat,  and  close  to  the  wharf  rose  the  stately  ruins  of 
Castle  Colon,  the  magnificent  chateau  and  state  house  built  by 
Diego,  the  son  of  Christopher  Columbus,  in  1509. 

The  Americans  of  both  continents  viewing  these  ruins,  con- 
necting by  ancient  history  the  two  hemispheres,  feel  the  neces- 
sity for  some  governmental  provision  in  their  future  preservation. 
They  should  be  saved  from  decay  and  he  made  sanitary,  instead 
of  being  neglected  and  abandoned  to  reptiles  and  vermin. 

Conservation  might  well  be  applied   here,  and  a   caretaker 


HISIORIC  ROUTE— DETAILING  STEAMSHIP  INTERESTS.  2-7 

appointed  to  show  travelers  the  points  of  interest,  and  to  explain 
the  history  of  the  oldest  structures  built  on  the  shores  of  the 
New  World. 

Santo  Domingans  acknowledge  their  debt  of  gratitude  to 
the  United  States  for  establishing  a  safe  financial  system  for 
their  benefit.  They  are  filled  with  a  spirit  of  hospitality  and  the 
island  would  make  an  ideal  winter  resort  if  only  it  possessed  a 
medium  hotel. 

The  ship  passes  close  to  the  American  island  of  Porto  Rico, 
also  St.  Croix  and  the  adjoining  St.  Thomas,  where  we  stop  a 
few  hours  in  the  picturesque  harbor  for  coal.  St.  Thomas  is 
described  as  a  Botany  Bay  colony  of  Denmark,  maintained  at  a 
cost  of  $150,000  annually.  It  is  noted  for  the  high  peaks  that 
are  used  as  signal  stations. 

The  principal  commerce  seems  to  be  in  bay  rum.  It  is  called 
a  two  and  a  half  per  cent,  place  because  all  duties  are  horizontal, 
two  and  a  half  per  cent. 

Almost  continually  in  sight  of  tall  mountain  peaks  rising 
from  the  sea,  densely  covered  with  luxuriant  tropical  foliage,  we 
sail  over  the  clear,  blue  sea  all  the  day,  almost  within  hailing  of 
the  picturesque  villages,  nestling  in  the  valleys  of  the  islands  of 
St.  Kitts,  Antigua,  the  French  islands  of  Guadalupe  and  Mar- 
tinique, where  a  short  stop  is  made  in  the  open  roadstead  of  the 
destroyed  town  of  St.  Pierre.  The  writer,  who  had  visited  the 
pretty  town  a  year  previous  to  its  destruction,  was  amazed  at 
the  present  desolation  in  contrast  with  its  former  lively  scenes. 
We  were  so  close  to  the  town  that  we  could  fancy  we  heard  the 
voices  of  those  we  saw  moving  about  the  streets.  We  distinctly 
heard  the  church  bell  toll  "the  passing  bell"  announcing  a  funeral 
service. 

Photographs  fail  to  represent  adequately  the  present  deso- 
lation. 

The  tourist  to  the  Mediterranean,  and  especially  the  wor- 
shipers of  Naples  and  Vesuvius,  may  find  in  this  American  tour 
volcanoes  like  Peelee  that  outclass  Vesuvius,  as  well  as  occasional 
earthquakes  and  hurricanes  that  rival  the  horrors  of  Messina. 


28  AN  AMERICAN  CONSUL  IN  AMAZONIA. 

On  a  former  visit  to  St.  Pierre  the  passengers  were  enter- 
tained by  the  antics  of  the  many  boys  who  came  out  to  the  an- 
chorage in  their  Httle  boats,  to  dive  down  in  the  clear,  blue  water 
for  the  coins  promiscuously  thrown  into  the  sea,  their  lithe, 
brown  bodies  wiggling  in  the  water  like  fish. 

The  desolation  of  St.  Pierre  is  painful  in  the  hush  that 
comes  over  one  looking  at  the  totally  destroyed  town,  which  is  a 
mass  of  ruins  surrounded  by  beautiful  undulating  farms  and 
vast  sugar  plantations. 

On  one  of  the  pretty  hills  close  to  the  edge  of  a  high,  rocky 
precipice,  covered  with  trailing  vines  of  beautiful  colors,  a  monu- 
ment or  shaft  is  pointed  out  as  a  memorial  to  the  French  Empress 
Josephine,  who  was  born  on  this  spot.  One  of  the  other  islands 
is  noted  as  the  birthplace  of  Lord  Nelson's  wife,  remembered  in 
a  different  way  from  Josephine. 

The  reader  or  tourist  desiring  further  details  in  voyaging 
over  sunny  seas  is  referred  not  only  to  Poultney  Bigelow's 
"Canoeing  Around  Martinique,"  but  also  to  the  writings  of  Laf- 
cadio  Hearn,  who  lavished  on  Martinique  some  of  his  most  opu- 
lent words  of  praise,  describing  St.  Pierre,  before  the  eruption 
of  Mount  Peelee,  as  the  unique  island  village  of  the  West  Indies, 
which  had  retained  the  spirit  of  France  to  a  curious  degree,  where 
the  women  have  perpetuated  the  French  characteristics  with  an 
added  beauty  and  fascination  peculiar  to  the  Creole,  while  the 
African  mixture  was  refined  by  the  Latin  inoculation. 

Ella  Wheeler  Wilcox,  who  recently  "did  the  islands,"  says 
in  her  book  of  verse:  "St.  Pierre  was  renowned  for  the  beauty 
of  its  women.  It  is  not  uncharitable  to  believe  that  it  was  not 
renowned  also  for  its  high  ideas  of  morality." 

"Morality,"  declares  the  poet  of  passion,  "and  the  tropics  are 
antagonistic  terms  in  any  part  of  the  world." 

"The  equator  is  the  girdle   of  Venus;  and  on  her  altars  of 
pleasure.  Humanity  is  prone  to  offer  all  its  sterner  principles." 

"It  may  not  be  true  that  St.  Pierre  was  the  wickedest  city 
in  the  world,  as  has  been  said,  but  since  through  the  West  Indian 


HISTORIC  ROUTE— DETAILING  STEAMSHIP  INTERESTS.  29 

cities  licentiousness  stalks  naked  and  unashamed  (as  he  who 
passes  through  their  thoroughfares  for  even  a  day  or  night  can- 
not fail  to  know)  it  is  a  probable  supposition  that  Mount  Peelee 
buried  more  vice  than  virtue  under  its  boiling  tons  of  lava." 

The  church,  men  and  women  without  regard  to  creed,  will 
recall  the  sad  fact  that  while  not  one  home  or  house  was  spared 
by  the  holocaust  which  made  a  skeleton  city  of  forty  thousand 
in  a  few  moments,  the  white  pedestal  of  the  Virgin  stood  unmo- 
lested and  unscarred. 

It  is  pointed  out  today,  just  above  and  aside  from  the  gray 
ghost  of  a  town,  as  the  one  structure,  small  or  large,  sacred  or 
profane,  that  has  survived. 

To  many  it  seems  only  an  odd  accident  of  fate,  but  for  the 
mystic  or  superstitious  mind  it  carries  a  deeper  significance. 

More  desolate  and  appalling  than  the  ruins  of  old  Rome, 
Pompeii  or  the  Herculanean,  this  shadowy  city  appeals  to  us,  be- 
cause its  people  were  of  our  day  and  generation,  and  the  details 
of  its  destruction  are  familiar  to  us  all.  Such  a  fate  may  any  day 
befall  any  of  the  cities  set  at  the  base  of  volcanic  mountains. 
There  are  no  extinct  volcanoes ;  they  are  only  slumbering. 

We  cannot  tarry  longer  at  Martinique.  In  the  evening  of 
an  ideal  day  the  ship  weighed  anchor  and  silently  glided  away 
from  St.  Pierre,  following  the  beautiful  shores  of  the  island, 
almost  within  a  biscuit  throw. 

After  the  usual  "Grand  March,"  or  after-dinner  promenade 
around  the  decks  for  exercise  to  the  accompaniment  of  guitar 
and  mandolin  and  songs  by  the  boys,  we  retired  to  dream  of  life 
among  the  beautiful  islands. 

Being  first  on  deck,  as  usual,  it  was  my  privilege  to  discover 
land  ahead,  which  from  a  distance  looked  low  and  topograph- 
ically uninteresting,  compared  with  the  wooded  hills  and  valleys 
of  Martinique.  I  was  told  we  were  approaching  the  Barbados. 
The  writer  does  not  know  why  this  solitary  island  is  universally 
called  the  Barbados.  It  is  also  known  to  navigators  as  one  of  the 
Windward  Islands,  probably  because  it  is  first  or  farthest  to  the 
east  of  the  group. 


30  AN  AMERICAN  CONSUL  IN  AMAZONIA. 

I  have  been  at  Barbados  several  times,  but  it  seemed  as  if 
the  approach  each  time  was  from  a  different  direction.  There 
is  apparently  no  harbor,  the  numerous  vessels  from  all  parts  an- 
choring in  the  roadstead,  probably  a  mile  from  the  leading  place. 

Communication  between  the  steamer  and  the  shore  is  carried 
on  through  the  shouts  and  gyrations  of  the  mob  of  negro  boat- 
men who,  in  unison  with  the  bobbing  and  clashing  of  the  fleet  of 
small  boats  on  the  swell,  seem  to  be  trying  to  run  each  other 
down  in  their  frantic  efforts  to  put  the  bow  of  their  own  boats 
nearest  the  ship's  ladder,  to  secure  the  nervous  passengers,  who 
are  hesitating  before  jumping  from  the  shaky  ladder  into  the 
nearest  bobbing  boat. 

A  first  surprise  on  arrival  at  the  Barbados  from  the  other 
islands  is  to  hear  the  negro  boatmen  of  Bridgetown  soliciting 
passengers,  in  better  English  than  is  used  by  a  majority  of  our 
hackmen  or  hotel  runners  at  a  railroad  station. 

The  boats  have  fantastic  names,  such  as  Happy  Charlie  or 
Island  Rose,  conspicuously  placed  in  the  stern  sheets,  the  appeals 
for  patronage  being  made  in  the  names  of  Island  Rose  or  Happy 
Charlie,  etc.  It  is  perfectly  safe  to  contract  with  any  of  the 
boatmen  for  the  trip  ashore  and  return  to  the  ship  for  a  very 
moderate  fee. 

A  first  visit  to  the  old  town  confirms  an  unfavorable  im- 
pression. The  streets  are  narrow  and  crooked,  flanked  by  ancient 
buildings  that  look  more  picturesque  than  artistic,  but  one  soon 
learns  that  this  crooked  old  town  is  the  business  section,  corre- 
sponding, in  lesser  degree,  to  the  "down-towns"  of  New  York 
or  old  London  streets. 

There  are  shops  and  shops  of  all  kinds,  occupying  every 
one  of  the  ramshackle,  tumbledown  looking  houses  in  the 
crowded,  crooked  streets.  One  of  the  peculiarities  of  the  retail 
trade  is  the  custom  of  all  business  houses  to  have  a  flagstaff  on 
the  top  of  their  buildings.  When  the  flag  is  flying  they  are  doing 
business  below;  if  the  flag  is  down  at  noon,  the  shop  is  closed 
for  breakfast.     On  arrival  of  steamers,  the  flags  are  all  flying, 


HISTORIC  ROUTE— DETAILING  STEAMSHIP  INTERESTS.  31 

giving  a  newcomer  an  impression  of  a  fete  rather  than  that  of 
business. 

Barbados  or  Bridgetown  enjoys  a  reputation,  extending  to 
all  parts  of  the  world  visited  by  ships,  of  being  the  cheapest  place 
to  live  and  the  best  place  to  buy  clothing.  This  is  confirmed  by 
travelers  and  residents  or  business  people,  who  attribute  these 
conditions  to  the  practically  free  trade  existing,  with  the  ad- 
vantage of  unrestricted  commerce  by  sea,  from  all  markets. 

To  test  this  free  trade  question,  I  visited  one  of  the  prin- 
cipal shops,  as  they  term  their  stores.  To  my  surprise,  the  large 
rooms  on  the  ground  floor  were  arrayed  in  systematic  order, 
showing  an  enormous  stock,  equal  in  bulk  and  variety  to  some  of 
our  American  department  stores. 

I  wanted  a  white  duck  suit  similar  in  cut  and  quality  to  that 
worn  in  tropical  lands,  and  was  politely  escorted  upstairs  to  the 
haberdashery  department  and  shown  a  line  of  the  best  quality 
of  white  duck  sack  suit,  with  the  trousers  turned  up. 

To  my  surprise,  the  price  for  the  coat  alone  which  was 
well  finished,  was  in  English  money  equal  to  $1.50,  the  two  piece 
suit  was  a  little  more  than  two  dollars,  for  goods  that  in  our 
country  would  be  considered  cheap  at  over  triple  this  price.  I 
have  detailed  this  personal  incident  to  give  practical  emphasis  to 
the  advice  to  those  contemplating  visiting  South  America  or  the 
tropics,  not  to  fit  out  with  clothing  at  home,  as  more  suitable 
goods  of  appropriate  cut  or  style  may  be  obtained  for  half  the 
price  while  the  ship  delays  in  Barbados. 

Living  is  comparatively  cheap  and  comfortable.  One  wish- 
ing to  find  rest,  good  sea  air,  and  abundant  food,  with  agreeable 
surroundings,  need  not  go  to  expensive  European  or  Mediter- 
ranean resorts,  but  may  enjoy  a  five  days'  sail  to  Barbados  and  be 
at  home  in  the  tropics  among  people  speaking  his  own  language. 

The  family  or  home  life  of  the  Barbados  must  not  be  judged 
from  a  hasty  visit  to  the  old  town  of  Bridgetown,  or  to  the  sec- 
tion occupied  by  the  numerous  negro  residents  of  "Little  Eng- 
land," who  are  with  the  rest  of  the  resident  population  loyal  sub- 


32  AN  AMERICAN  CONSUL  IN  AMAZONIA. 

jects  of  His  Gracious  Majesty  King  George.  As  previously 
indicated,  the  island  is  densely  populated,  largely  by  the  negro 
element.  The  government  does  not  solicit  immigration,  but,  on 
the  other  hand,  offers  a  cash  bonus  of  two  hundred  dollars  to 
those  who  wish  to  leave  the  island. 

There  are  to  be  found,  in  the  gently  rolling  highlands  of  the 
interior  of  the  island,  large  plantations  of  wealthy  sugar  planters, 
as  well  as  innumerable  farmers  and  well-to-do  resident  merchants 
and  professional  men,  select  schools,  churches  and  institutions 
that  help  to  make  life  agreeable. 

The  island  is  widely  known  as  a  fashionable  resort,  patron- 
ized principally  by  retired  English  merchants  and  retired  offi- 
cers of  the  Royal  Navy,  and  South  American  merchants  and 
barristers.  In  spacious  grounds  is  the  Marine  Hotel,  open  all  the 
year,  with  the  best  of  accommodations  at  a  reasonable  rate. 

At  one  time  a  regiment  of  English  soldiers  were  quartered 
in  Barbados,  with  a  view  of  preventing  a  threatened  outbreak 
among  the  negroes,  but  it  was  found  to  be  a  mistake,  as  soldiers 
and  negroes  became  too  friendly,  and  the  soldiers  were  with- 
drawn. No  trouble  of  this  sort  is  believed  to  be  within  the 
probabilities. 

They  have  had  yellow  fever  occasionally,  usually  among  the 
negroes  which  has  been  brought  from  other  places,  but  quaran- 
tine is  now  very  exacting,  and  the  island  enjoys  the  reputation 
of  being  very  healthful.  Being  in  the  Windward  group,  there 
is  always  a  pleasant  sea  breeze,  while  the  rich  soil  supplies,  in 
the  greatest  abundance,  garden  and  farm  products,  and  the  wa- 
ters furnish  ample  sea  food  in  the  way  of  fish,  turtle  and  sea 
fowl.  Invalids  or  young  women  and  men  fond  of  pleasure  sail- 
ing have  here  unequaled  opportunities  for  such  enjoyment  in  a 
day's  sail  to  the  islands.  The  Windward  Islands  are  not  iso- 
lated, being  connected  with  the  principal  places  of  the  earth  by 
cable,  with  daily  papers  that  publish  the  news  of  the  world.  There 
is  also  almost  daily  mail  communication  through  the  large  num- 
ber of  steamers  that  call,  enroute  to  Panama,  Central  and  South 


HISTORIC  ROUTE— DETAILING  STEAMSHIP  INTERESTS.  33 

America  and  Mexico,  as  well  as  the  United  States  and  Europe. 
The  Royal  Mail  makes  Barbados  its  principal  distributing  port 
to  Jamaica,  Panama,  Venezuela,  Central  America  and  the  islands, 
with  fortnightly  sailings  to  and  from  Southampton  and  New 
York. 

All  vessels  to  and  from  North  Brazil,  and  the  Amazon,  call 
at  the  Barbados,  including  the  German  and  British  lines  and 
Lloyd  Braziliero.  It  is  but  a  daylight  sail  southwesterly  from 
Barbados  to  the  beautiful  island  of  Trinidad,  situated  near 
the  coast  of  South  America,  at  the  bar  bocco  or  mouth  of  the 
Orinoco. 

The  ship  usually  spends  an  entire  day  and  part  of  the 
night  coaling  at  Barbados,  which  affords  plenty  of  time  for  pas- 
sengers to  go  ashore. 

A  landing  party  was  organized  by  Vianna,  comprising  the 
Brazilian  students,  the  first  officer  and  myself  being  invited  to 
join  as  guests — an  honor  I  accepted  with  some  apprehension, 
after  I  learned  that  the  first  officer  was  included  as  a  sort 
of  hostage  to  insure  the  others  that  the  ship  would  not  sail 
without  the  entire  party.  It  was  whispered  that  the  plan  to 
make  a  night  of  it  ashore  depended  on  getting  the  first  officer 
so  exhilarated  by  the  insidious  "Vermouth  cocktails"  that  he 
would  be  agreeable  to  his  hosts  regarding  the  hour  of  departure. 

Vianna  made  the  contract  with  the  "Happy  Charlie"  boat 
to  take  us  ashore  at  3  p.  m.,  to  return  at  9  p.  m.  for  sure,  as  the 
captain  had  bulletined  that  as  the  hour  for  sailing.  As  we  pulled 
off  the  captain  called  over  the  rail  to  be  back  by  8  p.  m.,  or  we 
would  be  left.  Vianna  seriously  assured  him  we  would  likely 
return  for  dinner  at  6  p.  m.,  which  remark  caused  the  others 
to  laugh  significantly. 

The  hospitality  of  the  negroes  who  swarmed  about  the 
boat  landing,  vociferously  offering  their  services  as  guides,  or 
the  thrusting  of  hotel  and  restaurant  advertisements  into  our 
hands,  was  at  first  an  amusing  revelation,  and  afterwards  an 
embarrassment,    when   we   had   reached  the  business  streets,  at 


34  AN  AMERICAN  CONSUL  IX  AMAZONIA. 

finding  our  party  still  pursued  by  a  mob  of  ugly  looking  black 
men  and  repulsive  women  and  children  who  laughed  at  our 
vigorous  rebuffs.  We  found  refuge  in  a  well  known  Barbados 
hostelry  bearing  the  enticing  name  of  "The  Ice  Box,"  where  we 
were  served  by  English  waiters. 

After  some  difficulty,  the  post  office  was  discovered  in  an 
apparently  out  of  the  way  section.  Here  we  were  courteously 
waited  on  by  an  English  "dark"  of  the  post  office  staff.  Then, 
boarding  a  street  car  to  get  anywhere  to  avoid  the  importun- 
ities of  the  crowd,  we  rode  to  the  suburbs. 

There  are  numerous  places  well  worth  a  visit  in  Barbados, 
which  possesses  an  ancient  history  of  its  own  that  is  very  in- 
teresting. I  was  surprised  to  hear  one  of  the  negro  guides  offer  to 
take  the  American  to  the  house  George  Washington  occupied  when 
he  visited  the  island  in  the  interest  of  his  sick  brother.  I  was 
not  before  aware  of  the  fact  that  George  had  indulged  in  tropical 
travel  in  his  youth. 

As  the  Barbados  has  been  well  "written  up"  by  historians 
and  literary  tourists,  whose  books  elaborating  the  ancient  and 
modern  history  are  accessible  in  the  libraries,  I  need  not  burden 
this  narrative,  further  than  to  relate  briefly  our  own  experiences 
and  observations. 

A  car  ride  through  the  outskirts  developed  a  remarkably 
beautiful  environment,  quite  pastoral  in  places,  with  tastefully 
built  cottages  and  elaborate  homes  connected  with  farms  or 
plantations.  I  was  informed  that  a  neatly  furnished  house 
or  cottage,  with  a  large  garden,  could  be  rented  for  fifteen 
dollars  per  month. 

Later  we  joined  in  a  carriage  drive  to  the  large  resort,  "The 
Marine  Hotel,"  where  we  were  courteously  entertained.  The 
building  is  roomy  and  generously  provided  with  broad  halls,  con- 
structed especially  for  comfort  in  a  "tropical  island,"  situated 
in  spacious  grounds  and  commanding  a  view  of  the  sea  in  all 
directions. 


HISTORIC  ROUTE— DETAILING  STEAMSHIP  INTERESTS.  35 

Here  we  dined  sumptuously,  spending  a  couple  of  hours  in 
gentlemanly  enjoyment,  quite  in  contrast  with  some  other 
hilarious  American  gatherings  in  which  I  have  participated. 

Vianna  was,  of  course,  toastmaster,  and  each  of  the  party 
contributed  a  toast  talk,  and,  by  the  way,  the  native  Brazilian  is  a 
born  after-dinner  talker,  whose  talent  is  exercised  from  early 
years.  Later  in  the  evening  we  returned  to  the  town  and,  to 
avoid  attention,  divided  the  party;  my  partner  being  Vianna, 
while  Miller  and  the  rest  took  charge  of  the  first  officer. 

The  principal  streets  were  crooked  and  badly  lighted,  the 
narrow  sidewalks  crowded  with  a  mixed  lot  of  people,  some  of 
whom  appeared  only  half  clad  in  ragged  clothing,  but  all  were 
apparently  happy  and  contented.  On  one  of  the  main  streets 
was  a  negro  Salvation  Army  detachment,  the  colored  preacher 
loudly  exhorting  everybody  in  his  hearing  to  pause  and  give  at- 
tention. By  some  means  our  crowd  became  separated  in  trying 
to  find  the  landing  stage  by  short  cuts,  through  d^k  back  streets. 

Vianna  mysteriously  disappeared  with  the  first  officer,  and, 
as  it  was  after  the  promised  hour  of  return,  some  of  us  straggled 
to  the  landing.  After  waiting  some  time  for  the  rest,  we  con- 
cluded to  go  aboard,  hoping  they  would  soon  follow. 

The  "old  man"  was  in  a  bad  humor,  because  he  had  been 
ready  to  sail  for  an  hour,  and  was  delayed  by  our  visit  ashore 
and  the  first  officer  not  being  on  board.  When  we  tried  to 
explain  or  apologize  for  the  absence  of  the  first  officer  and 
Vianna,  the  old  man  got  "up  in  the  air,"  and  called  on  the  sailors 
on  the  bridge  to  blow  the  ship's  whistle  as  a  call  for  the  "first." 
He  must  have  roused  the  sleepy  town,  as  a  number  of  the  inhabi- 
tants came  in  small  boats  to  see  what  the  call  was  for. 

The  trouble  was  that  the  captain  could  not  sail  without  his 
first  officer  being  aboard,  and  he  knew  that  the  "first"  was  aware 
of  this  fact  and  was  not  in  any  hurry.  Long  after  the  rest  of  us 
had  climbed  up  the  shaky  ship's  ladder  and  retired  to  our  rooms, 
Vianna  came  alongside  in  a  small  boat  and  had  a  breezy  talk 
over  the  side  with  the  captain,  in  Portuguese,  that  would  not 


36  AN  AMERICAN  CONSUL  IN  AMAZONIA. 

look  well  in  English,  x^fter  a  long  powwow  in  loud  and  rather 
guttural  Portuguese,  Vianna  agreed  to  accompany  the  second 
officer  back  to  the  town  to  bring  the  "first"  aboard. 

While  we  slept  the  sleep  of  innocence,  Vianna,  with  the 
first  and  second  officers  finally  came  aboard,  and  the  captain 
vigorously  rang  "full  speed  ahead."  The  good  ship  seemingly 
shivered  with  indignation  at  the  delay,  with  her  bow  to  the  south, 
as  she  glided  from  the  harbor,  dipping  into  the  moonlighted 
sea. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

EQUATOR,  NORTH   STAR,     AND    MOUTH  OF    AMAZON. 

HE  regret  at  leaving  the  beautiful  Wind- 
wind  Islands  is  lessened  by  the  suggestion 
that  on  the  return  trip  the  ship  will  call 
again,  when  a  second  visit  may  permit  of 
a  few  days'  layover  to  enable  the  visitor 
to  "ferry"  by  one  of  the  ships  calling  at 
the  island  of  Trinidad,  which  is  on  the 
JS  route  from  Barbados  to  Venezuelan  ports 
and  Panama,  and  Jamaica  to  New  York.  I  recommend  to  my 
comrades  of  the  army,  as  well  as  of  the  civil  service,  who  may 
have  reached  the  "Osier  limit"  of  fourscore  years  and  ten,  who 
find  their  retired  pay  or  pension  has  not  correspondingly  advanced 
with  the  increased  cost  of  living,  that  the  Barbados  offers  special 
inducements  in  the  way  of  climate,  solid  comfort  and  conven- 
ience for  a  happy  retired  life  at  a  low  rate. 

While  no  attempt  is  made  to  explain  learnedly  or  to  des- 
cribe scientifically  the  physical  geography  of  the  volcanic  origin 
or  other  formation  of  the  West  Indies,  the  suggestion  is  vol- 
unteered that  the  various  islands  may  have  been  the  tall  peaks 
of  the  lost  continent  of  Atlantis,  described  in  Ignatius  Donnelly's 
book,  which  is  supposed  to  have  been  submerged  eleven  thous- 
and years  ago.  Its  location  or  even  existence  is  a  debatable  sub- 
ject, but  the  continuous  islands  seem  to  mark  a  direct  line  uniting 
the  North  and  South  American  continents  from  Florida  to  the 
coast  of  Guiana,  similar  to  that  now  formed  by  the  Sierras 
from  Mexico  through  Central  America  and  Panama. 

The  existence  of  ruins  in  Barbados  and  other  islands,  simi- 
lar to  those  found  in  the  buried  cities  of  Mexico  and  Guatemala, 


38  AN  AMERICAN  CONSUL  IN  AMAZONIA. 

and  in  the  land  of  the  Incas,  the  architecture  corresponding  in  a 
notable  way  with  the  early  Egyptian,  are  facts  which  at  least 
afford  a  basis  for  interesting  discussion  and  speculation. 

Navigators  bound  to  the  Amazon  from  Barbados  or  Carib- 
bean ports  avoid  the  coast  of  Guiana  and  North  Brazil  by  a 
wide  detour  easterly,  because  of  the  powerful  equatorial  cur- 
rent which  flows  northerly  above  the  Amazon,  at  the  rate  of  four 
to  six  miles  an  hour,  along  the  coast  into  the  Caribbean  Sea. 
Here  the  Amazon  waters,  uniting  with  the  Orinoco,  form  the 
well  defined  Gulf  Stream,  that  will  carry  an  empty  bottle  from 
Jamaica  or  the  southern  shore  of  Cuba,  through  the  Yucatan 
channels  into  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  passing  Key  West  along  the 
coast  of  Florida  and  thence  across  the  Atlantic.  Is  it  not  pos- 
sible that  the  tropical  growth  of  Jamaica,  Cuba  and  Florida  is 
due  to  the  deposits,  through  centuries,  of  vegetation  germs  car- 
ried by  these  currents  from  the  equator  to  the  shores? 

The  time  from  Barbados  to  the  Amazon  is  from  four  to 
six  days  of  leisurely  sailing  over  sunny  seas,  during  which  our 
students  lounged  on  deck  in  comfortable  steamer  chairs  or 
swung  in  the  roomy  Ceara  hammocks  under  the  ships  awnings. 

It  has  become  too  enervating  for  games  that  require  exertion, 
the  only  excitement  being  on  the  ship's  daily  run.  A  bulletin 
giving  the  figures  is  posted  at  midday  for  the  information  of 
passengers,  and  the  one  who  makes  the  nearest  guess  is  entitled 
to  all  he  can  get.  This  suggestion  of  gambling  reminds  me  that 
during  my  travels  to  the  south  I  have  not  witnessed  gambling 
as  it  is  understood  generally,  though  there  has  always  been 
card  playing  in  the  smoking  room  or  chess  and  checkers  on  deck 
for  pastime  or  recreation,  neither  have  I  seen  any  excessive 
drinking  by  Brazilians. 

Though  not  a  prohibitionist,  the  writer  is  free  to  say  that, 
on  the  voyage  on  the  Brazilian  steamers,  for  weeks  there  was 
not  a  single  instance  of  drunkenness,  and  I  may  add  that  on  this 
voyage  of  the  Goyaz,  during  which  I  spent  much  time  on  deck 
and  in  the  smoking  room,  there  was  not  even  a  bottle  of  beer 
opened  in  my  presence. 


EQUATOR,   NORTH   STAR.   AND   MOUTH   OF   AMAZON.    39 

The  Brazilian  boys  occasionally  drink  a  mild  concoction 
of  vermouth  and  cachasa  made  from  the  sugar  cane,  which 
is  pure  rum  flavored  with  limes  or  lemons  and  drunk  with  fizz 
or  mineral  water,  as  a  tonic  or  cocktail  before  meals.  Claret 
wine  is  served  with  all  meals  on  board  the  Brazilian  boats, 
and  is  drunk  moderately,  just  as  we  use  coffee  at  meals. 

It  has  been  my  privilege  to  have  sailed  on  many  ships 
on  different  seas,  principally  to  the  south,  always  with  a  definite 
object  in  view,  sometimes  by  the  way  of  Europe,  meeting  in  the 
smoking  room  gentlemen  of  all  nationalities  and  races  and  creeds, 
and  I  do  not  recall  any  serious  unpleasantness,  but  invariably 
courteous  and  kindly  consideration. 

The  smoke  from  numerous  pipes,  cigars  or  cigarettes  of 
those  sitting  around  the  card  tables  and  others  lounging  on  the 
sofas,  appears  to  entirely  envelop  the  room  like  a  mantle  of 
charity  or  curtain,  which,  for  the  time  being,  isolates  those  under 
its  influence  from  their  respective  worlds  which  all  are  leaving  be- 
hind, the  ship  apparently  sharing  the  good  feeling  by  dancing  over 
the  moonlit  seas. 

It  has  frequently  occurred  to  the  writer  that  the  best 
in  human  nature,  whether  of  Jew,  Gentile,  Russian,  German, 
French,  Spaniard,  Portuguese,  Italian,  English  or  American, 
may  be  found  in  the  smoking  room  of  ocean  steamers. 

It  is  proper  to  add  that  the  writer  does  not  smoke,  and  I 
can  scarcely  make  those  that  know  me  as  an  old  soldier  and 
traveler  believe  the  assertion,  that  "I  do  not  know  one  card  from 
another." 

The  occasional  outburst  of  hearty  laughter  of  those 
lounging  on  sofas  listening  to  a  good  story  does  not  annoy 
those  at  the  table,  so  intent  are  they  in  their  intricate  Brazilian 
games. 

Sometimes  the  stories  become  a  bit  spicy,  but  always  marked 
by  refinement  and  humor. 

Apropos  of  intricate  card  playing  by  Brazilians,  this  story 
is  told  for  the  benefit  of  Yankee  travelers :  "When  an  appli- 
cant for  a  consular  or  diplomatic  appointment  in  Brazil,  I  was 


40  AN  AMERICAN  CONSUL  IN  AMAZONIA. 

jokingly  asked,  when  filing  the  papers,  if  1  played  a  good  hand 
of  poker,  to  which  was  laughingly  added  the  explanation  that 
it  had  been  the  custom  to  select  only  good  poker  players  for 
Brazilian  ports,  because  the  Brazilian  had  always  got  the  best 
of  the  American  game  with  American  diplomats.  It  is  well 
known  that  the  late  Emperor  Don  Pedro  II  was  recognized  as  a 
skillful  poker  player." 

It  is  a  singular  circumstance  that  those  who  are  apparently 
grouchy  and  taciturn  become,  under  the  influence  of  the  smok- 
ing room,  the  most  congenial.  The  j oiliest  pair  I  recall  travel- 
ing with  us  were  two  priests,  and  though  I  have  not  had  as  much 
experience  as  others,  I  am  told  that  preachers,  or  dignified 
professors  and  philanthropists,  are  invariably  considered  good 
fellow  travelers. 

My  school  book  astronomy  taught  that  the  North  Star 
was  fixed  so  that  its  bright  glimmer  might  always  be  found 
where  the  Dipper  pointed. 

In  sailing  to  the  south  I  have,  in  the  sense  of  looking  bacTc- 
ward  over  the  steamer's  long,  white  trail,  watched  the  "Estrella 
Polaris"  day  by  day,  evening  by  evening,  or  hour  by  hour,  slow- 
ly but  surely  sinking  lower  and  lower  until  it  finally  disap- 
peared below  the  northern  horizon,  where  for  the  moment  it 
seemed  that  we  had  lost  a  friend  in  whom  we  had  unlimited  con- 
fidence. 

Turning  from  the  past,  looking  forward  and  upward,  we 
are  gladdened  by  the  constellation  of  the  "Southern  Cross," 
shining  brightly  and  distinctly  through  the  darkness  of  the  trop- 
ical night,  which  we  gladly  welcomed  as  a  lunar  rainbow  of  hope. 
The  moon  seems  very  large  and  close  to  us  in  the  tropics.  The 
navigation  of  ships  or  the  finding  of  the  right  path  in  a  great, 
lonesome  sea  by  star  gazing,  where  land  has  not  been  in  sight 
for  a  week,  or  a  sail  for  days,  has  always  been  an  interesting 
mystery.  I  have  bothered  captains  by  the  same  old  questions 
they  all  get  from  nervous  travelers,  as  to  where  we  are,  or  when 
we   will  get  there,   or   which   is   the   nearest   land.     The  usual 


EQUATOR,   XORTH   STAR,   AND   MOUTH   OF   AMAZON.    41 

good-natured  answer  to  the  last  is  that    the  nearest  land  is  the 
bottom  of  the  sea. 

I  have  heard  captains  parry  a  lady's  question  as  to  "How 
in  the  world  can  you  tell  where  you  are?"  by  seriously  declaring 
they  had  certain  landmarks,  they  could  find  by  using  the  glasses, 
asking  if  she  had  not  noticed  a  red  barn  we  had  passed  a  few 
moments  ago.  I  have  been  permitted  to  ride  on  the  bridge  and 
when  the  captain  was  not  around,  "talk  to  the  man  at  the  wheel," 
used  the  glasses,  and  also  to  study  the  charts  in  the  captain's 
room,  and  on  occasions  to  assist  in  taking  the  sun  by  noting  the 
exact  second  on  the  chronometer  when  the  captain  looking 
through  his  sextant  gives  the  signal  "time,"  but  I  have  never 
been  able  to  clearly  comprehend  how  he  can  put  the  ship  into  any 
point  desired  by  the  use  of  charts  and  an  opera-glass  or  know 
the  exact  moment  when  he  crossed  the  equator. 

In  discussing  this  matter  the  day  we  were  near  the  mouth 
of  the  Amazon,  the  captain,  pointing  to  the  sea,  said,  "We  depend 
almost  as  much  on  the  color  of  the  water  and  the  sea  growth  as 
we  do  on  the  stars,  in  the  blue  sky."  When  a  day's  sail  from  the 
Amazon,  the  dark  greenish  sea  indicating  great  depth,  undergoes 
a  change  in  color,  the  near  approach  to  land  being  also  indicated 
by  the  presence  of  certain  sea  plants  and  drift.  The  captain  had 
previously  called  attention  to  the  different  kinds  of  sea  weed 
which  he  pointed  out  as  found  only  in  certain  locations,  declaring 
that  he  was  able  to  navigate  the  ship  by  the  color  of  the  water 
and  the  various  kind  of  sea  weed  afloat. 

It  is  broadly  stated  that  the  flood  of  old  gold  colored  water 
from  the  lordly  Amazon  discolors  the  blue  of  the  sea  for  two 
hundred  miles,  creating  a  fresh  water  sea  while  yet  out  of 
sight  of  land. 

This  statement  should  be  qualified  by  the  explanation  that 
this  tremendous  flow  is  from  the  greater  outlet  of  the  Amazon  to 
the  north,  from  which  the  immense  volume  of  yellow  water 
trending  along  the  north  coast  does  actually  mark  a  distinct 
pathway  in   the  blue  of  the   Atlantic   for  two   hundred  miles, 


42  AN  AMERICAN  CONSUL  IN  AMAZONIA. 

creating  a  fresh  water  sea  while  yet  out  of  sight  of  land,  when 
the  tide  is  at  flow. 

This  tremendous  flow,  over  a  hundred  miles  wide,  is  two  or 
three  times  greater  than  that  from  the  Mississippi. 

Through  the  kindness  of  the  captain  the  latest  charts  of 
the  bocco  or  mouth  of  the  Amazon  were  measured  for  me, 
showing  the  total  width  from  the  northerly  to  the  southern  capes 
to  be  138  nautical  miles,  including  within  the  Amazon  proper 
the  island  of  Marajo,  which  is  as  large  as  the  kingdom  of  Portu- 
gal, and  which  separates  the  bocco  or  mouth  into  its  two  outlets. 

The  upper  outlet  is  not  used  for  navigation,  owing  to  the 
powerful  currents  and  danger  arising  from  the  fierce  meeting 
of  the  tremendous  flow  of  fresh  yellow  water  and  the  incoming 
tide  of  salted  blue  of  the  broad  Atlantic.  The  long  line  of  im- 
pact is  clearly  defined  by  an  angry  foaming  white  wave  of  surf, 
that  advances  or  retreats  like  the  lines  of  two  armies,  outlined 
by  the  smoke  of  battle.  A  small  boat  or  even  a  steamer  caught 
on  the  crest  of  this  rolling  undertow  is  easily  capsized. 

This  fierce  battle  of  the  waters  has  occurred  with  each 
change  of  tide,  for  ages,  and  will  no  doubt  continue,  the  Amazon 
being  victorious  a  few  hours  every  day  when  the  tide  is  out, 
discharging  an  enormous  body  of  water  bearing  the  soil  from  the 
Andes  to  the  ocean,  forming  bars  and  thus  extending  the  con- 
tinent or  starting  a  foundation  for  a  new  one.  In  this  sense 
the  Amazon  is  victorious  in  advancing  its  lines  permanently. 
The  revenge  of  the  sea  of  blue  is  in  chasing  backwards  for  three 
hundred  to  five  hundred  miles,  the  yellow  water,  by  the  incom- 
ing, irresistible  tide,  which  creates  the  phenomenon  of  the  cur- 
rent of  the  Amazon  flowing  rapidly,  alternately  both  up  and 
down  stream. 

The  large  island  of  Marajo,  which  divides  the  Amazon,  is 
called  "The  Mysterious  Island,"  probably  because  it  is  practically 
unknown.  Marajo  possesses  a  dififerent  climate  from  the  main- 
land, being  for  a  greater  part  level  or  prairie  land,  suited  to  the 
grazing  of  immense  herds  of  wild  cattle.     There  are  rivers  en- 


EQUATOR,   NORTH   STAR.   AND   MOUTH   OF   AiMAZON.    43 

closed  by  tropical  forests  and  some  wooded  elevations  in  which 
large  game  abounds.  It  is  said  that  the  largest  alligators  known 
are  found  in  the  greatest  number  on  Marajo.  There  are  indica- 
tions that  the  island  was  at  one  time  inhabited  by  a  race  now  ex- 
tinct. 

I  have  passed  in  and  out  of  the  Amazon  many  times,  but 
not  having  been  quite  satisfied  with  my  observations,  I  asked  the 
captain  to  advise  me  when  he  would  enter  or  cross  that  dangerous 
line,  to  which  he  replied,  "Why,  we  are  in  the  Amazon  now." 

Almost  all  travelers  are  disappointed  on  entering  the  great 
river,  expecting  to  find  it  flowing  between  banks  visible  on  either 
side  like  ordinary  rivers,  but  the  ship  in  the  lower  river  is  out  of 
sight  of  land,  until  some  distance  westerly  has  been  made. 

Borrowing  the  captain's  glasses  and  looking  longingly  in  the 
direction  he  pointed,  I  was  able  to  barely  distinguish,  against  the 
horizon,  a  line  of  dark  green  which  I  knew  was  the  forest  fringed 
edge  of  another  continent. 

I  rejoiced  at  seeing  Brazil  on  my  fourth  visit. 

The  good  ship  Goyaz,  seemingly  glad  to  be  in  familiar 
waters,  her  head  pointed  due  west,  plunged  rapidly  over  the 
smooth,  yellow  water,  having  parted  from  the  ocean  swells. 

Up  the  river  to  Para  covers  approximately  eighty  miles 
of  pleasant  sailing,  from  the  sea,  during  which  the  passengers 
lose  interest  in  the  river  and  prepare  for  landing,  by  dressing  in 
their  best  or  holiday  clothes.  Our  party  of  Brazilian  students, 
realizing  that  they  were  nearing  home,  were  all  as  happy  as 
becomes  children  of  a  larger  growth. 

We  met  the  flotilla  of  Para  fishing  boats  with  their  odd- 
shaped  sails,  browned  by  oil  or  rubber  paint,  to  protect  them  from 
the  daily  downpour  of  rain,  and  were  soon  able  to  distinguish  in 
the  fringe  of  tropical  forest  here  and  there  an  occasional  thatch 
cottage  or  chacra,  and,  later  a  few  isolated  settlements.  On  one 
of  the  numerous  islands  in  the  mouth  of  the  Amazon  we  see  the 
frowning  outlines  of  an  ancient  fort,  which  we  approached  with 
respectful  dignity,  the  engine  almost  stopping,  apparently  all 
hands  at  the  rail,  and  we  are  challenged  in  the  same  words  used 


4-1  AN  AMERICAN  CONSUL  IN  AMAZONIA. 

for  hundreds  of  years,  as  "Where  do  you  come  from?"  "How 
many  days  at  sea?"  "Any  sickness?"  etc.  The  answers  shouted 
back  by  the  captain  being  satisfactory,  the  BraziHan  colors  on  the 
fort  were  dipped  in  sakite,  to  which  the  ship  responded,  the 
captain  rang  "ahead,"  while  everybody  looked  relieved.  I  note 
the  thoughtful  courtesy  of  the  captain  in  displaying  at  his  top 
the  American  colors  of  "Old  Glory,"  which  he  said  was  in  com- 
pliment to  the  American  nation  we  had  come  from,  and  the 
veteran  soldier  and  ex-consul  on  board. 

The  ship  must  leave  the  main  stream  to  reach  Para,  which 
is  located  on  a  branch  of  the  Amazon,  called  by  my  school  book 
geography  "The  Para  River,"  of  which  no  BraziHan  has  ever 
heard,  the  city  being  located  on  the  broader  Guajara  Bay,  one  of 
the  numerous  outlets  or  bayous  of  the  Amazon.  We  pass  several 
settlements  and  small  bathing  resorts,  including  Point  Pinheiro, 
the  Coney  Island  of  Para,  finally  reaching  the  open  water  or  bay, 
in  which  are  more  than  the  usual  number  of  boats  of  all  kinds 
anchored  before  the  city,  whose  numerous  warehouses  along 
the  water  front  resemble  the  walls  of  the  low-lying  city  beyond. 

The  Lloyd  Braziliero  enjoys  the  best  dock  facilities,  but 
we  had  to  comply  with  the  same  regulations  and  requirements 
as  are  exacted  of  foreign  visitors,  by  anchoring  out  in  the  stream, 
avoiding  any  communication  with  the  shore  until  inspected  by  the 
health  and  custom  officials. 

They  are  exacting  about  duties  in  Brazil,  which  did  not, 
however,  prevent  friends  of  our  Brazilian  students  from  coming 
out  in  numbers  in  small  boats  to  shout  their  welcome  home. 

The  handsome  father  of  the  two  Guimaraes  !)rothers,  with 
their  two  pretty  sisters,  came  as  near  alongside  as  was  permissi- 
ble. Miranda's  cousin  and  friends  in  another  boat  were  trying 
to  get  in  touch  with  him,  and  Miller  was  met  by  his  own  steam 
launch. 

Rodrigo  and  the  rest  of  us  felt  decidedly  blue,  as  we  extended 
the  parting  hand  clasp,  regretting  that  we  were  not  favored  by 
cousinly  greetings. 


EQUATOR,   NORTH   STAR,   AXD   MOUTH   OF   AMAZON.    45 

As  soon  as  the  word  was  passed  freeing  the  ship,  the 
friends  flocked  on  board,  following  which  was  more  handshaking, 
and  laughing  and  talking  with  the  Brazilian  custom  of  men  em- 
bracing each  other  with  three  slaps  on  the  back. 

We  could  only  look  on  and  laugh,  while  courteous  promises 
were  made  that  at  another  time  we  would  be  called  upon  and 
shown  the  hospitalities  of  friends,  the  embraces  included. 

Soon  the  ship  was  fairly  deserted  and,  as  it  was  late  in 
the  evening,  I  decided  to  remain  aboard  until  the  following  morn- 
ing. 

The  ship  had  hardly  tied  to  the  dock,  however,  when  two 
gentlemen  came  aboard  and  after  a  cordial  greeting  In  good  Eng- 
lish the  captain  presented  me  to  the  Honorable  George  H.  Picker- 
ell,  United  States  Consul  at  Para,  and  to  his  Deputy  Mr.  Cox, 
who  heartily  welcomed  me  as  a  former  colleague  and  friend,  up- 
braiding me  for  not  having  given  notice  of  my  coming. 

The  arrival  of  "O  Consul  Americano"  had  been  announced 
ashore  by  some  of  our  students,  and  the  consul  thereupon  hast- 
ened to  the  dock.  At  the  urgent  solicitation  of  the  captain.  Con- 
sul Pickerell  and  Mr.  Cox  remained  on  board  to  a  private  din- 
ner, which  all  heartily  enjoyed. 

Mr.  Pickerell  kindly  invited  me  to  make  the  consulate  my 
home  while  in  Para,  which  courtesy  was  fully  appreciated  and 
thoroughly  enjoyed  by  me  during  a  fortnight's  stay  in  Para. 


CHAPTER   V. 

CONSULAR   APPOINTMENTS. 

'^S  previously  noted,  it  is  desired  to  in- 
ject into  this  narrative  of  a  revisit  to 
familiar  scenes  in  Northern  Brazil  the 
old  story  of  "O  Consul  Americano  Na 
Amazonas,"  the  publication  of  which 
has  been  delayed,  but  is  now  urged 
by  friends  as  tending  to  illustrate  by 
the  changed  conditions. 

For  accurate  comparison,  I  quote 
the  exact   words,   as   recorded   in   the 
original  manuscript  for  publication  at  the  time,  fully  realizing  the 
imperfections,  but  preferring  to  let  it  go  as  it  is,  rather  than  at- 
tempt uncongenial  revision. 

While  at  breakfast  in  my  boarding  house  in  Washington,  on 
the  morning  of  Memorial  Day,  May  30,  some  years  ago,  a  lady 
seated  near  me  at  the  table  happily  promoted  my  digestion  by 
reading  aloud  from  her  paper  the  announcement  that  the  Presi- 
dent had,  on  the  previous  day,  sent  my  name  to  the  Senate  for 
confirmation  as  consul  to  Para. 

After  the  congratulations  which  followed,  the  puzzling 
question  put  to  me  was:  "Where  is  Para?" 

Every  person  at  the  table  looked  inquiringly  toward  me 
and  naturally  laughed  at  the  reply  I  was  forced  to  make,  "I'm 
blessed  if  I  know." 

I  had  been  one  of  about  one  thousand  anxious  seekers  for 
a  consulate  who  had  been  successful  in  securing  one  of  the 
much  coveted  of  a  half  dozen  possible  vacancies. 

Mr.  Blaine,  whom  I  had  known  personally  for  many  years, 
had  favorably  indorsed  me  for  a  South  American  or  Amazon- 


CONSULAR  APPOINTMENTS.  47 

Brazilian  post,  or,  as  he  expressed  it  in  his  own  words,  later,  "I 
think  you  are  the  right  man  to  send  out  there,  as  you  are  a  telegra- 
pher and  a  practical  electrician,  and  we  want  to  know  something 
about  the  rubber  insulation  in  this  electric  age,  in  its  relation  to 
reciprocity." 

Mr.  Blaine  was  a  far-seeing  statesman,  being  among  the  first 
to  recognize  the  value  of  rubber  used  so  extensively  in  this  elec- 
tric age,  but  even  he  could  not  foresee  its  wonderful  development 
and  use  as  tires  for  bicycles,  automobiles  and  its  application  in 
other  industries. 

When  I  intimated  that  I  did  not  know  anything  of  Para, 
he  replied :  "That's  the  trouble  with  all  of  us.  I  am  sending  you 
out  there  to  learn  something  about  it,  as  you  have  a  good  nose  for 
news  and  your  training  as  a  newspaper  scout  qualifies  you  for 
collecting  and  reporting  intelligently  on  the  prospects  for  Amer- 
ican business."  Then,  smilingly  taking  off  his  glasses  and  twirl- 
ing them  in  his  hand,  he  continued,  "And  the  facts  are,  we 
have  more  plugs  than  holes  to  put  them  in,  but  I  told  you  I 
would  find  a  hole  for  you,"  and  he  kept  his  word.  He  put  me  in 
a  very  hot  hole. 

Retaining  a  schoolboy's  vague  impression  that  Para  was 
somehow  connected  geographically  with  Brazil,  I  appealed  to 
friends  for  further  information  on  the  subject,  as  most  of  them 
left  school  since  I  had. 

Among  the  number  were  a  congressman  and  his  family, 
a  judge,  a  Southern  colonel  and  a  few  prominent  department 
clerks  who  had  passed  civil  service  examinations,  yet  it  was 
developed  that  no  one  knew  any  more  about  Para  than  the  newly 
appointed  consul. 

On  further  inquiries  I  found  that  there  was  in  our  capital 
city,  outside  the  consular  bureau,  a  lamentable  ignorance  regard- 
ing the  geography  of  our  neighboring  republic  of  South  America. 

What  information  I  did  obtain  was  not  at  all  of  a  flatter- 
ing character.  In  fact,  I  seriously  considered  the  advisability  of 
declining  the  appointment,  but  finally  concluded  that  I  would 
take  a  look  at  the  country  of  reciprocity. 


48  AN  AMERICAN  CONSUL  IN  AMAZONIA. 

A  nomination  by  the  President  does  not  necessarily  carry 
with  it  the  appointment.  Unexpectedly,  my  name  aroused  the 
antagonism  of  a  few  newspaper  lobbyists  who,  it  subsequently 
appeared,  had  private  interests  to  serve  and  who  availed  of  the 
opportunity  to  make  use  of  a  number  of  disgruntled  members  of 
the  telegraphers'  league,  whom  I  had  antagonized  in  a  "strike," 
to  oppose  me.  I  was,  however,  unanimously  confirmed  by  the 
Senate. 

After  the  Senate  has  confirmed  the  President's  appoint- 
ment, the  Department  of  State  transmits  to  the  new  consul  what 
they  call  "our  numbers  one  and  two."  Number  one  is  a  printed 
form  ofiicially  notifying  the  appointee  of  the  fact;  enclosing  also 
the  blank  form  of  consular  bond  and  oath  of  allegiance.  Num- 
ber two  contains  the  printed  instructions  as  to  the  compensation 
allowed,  which  I  may  briefly  mention,  for  the  benefit  of  the 
numerous  applicants,  is  graded  for  all  consulates  by  law  of  Con- 
gress at  so  much  per  annum,  and  is  in  no  way  subject  to  change 
by  the  department. 

A  new  consul  is  entitled  to  the  salary  from  the  time  he 
reaches  his  post  and  enters  upon  his  official  duties  until  such  time 
as  he  ceases  to  hold  the  office. 

There  is  no  allowance  for  traveling  expenses.  The  misun- 
derstanding seems  to  be  general  that  the  government  pays  the 
expense  of  transportation  to  the  new  post  of  duty.  Some  of 
the  appointees  from  the  interior  report  to  the  department  with 
ridiculously  exaggerated  notions  of  their  importance,  expecting 
to  be  sent  out  in  a  man  of  war,  and  are  astonished  when  informed 
they  must  pay  their  own  fares. 

Salary  is  allowed,  however,  during  the  period  necessarily 
occupied  in  receiving  instructions  at  Washington  (not  to  exceed 
thirty  days)  ;  and,  finally,  for  the  time  which  he  must  certify  to 
under  oath  as  being  actually  consumed  in  making  a  direct  transit 
between  his  residence  and  post  of  duty. 

No  money  can  be  obtained  on  account  of  salary,  except  for 
the  thirty  days'  instruction  period,  until   the   consul  makes  the 


■?  u 


-=,<'=> 


CONSULAR  APPOINTMENTS.  49 

prescribed  draft  on  the  Treasury,  which  must  be  dated  at  his 
distant  post  of  duty. 

Upon  the  execution  of  the  exacting  consular  bond,  and  oath 
of  allegiance,  an  official  transcript  is  transmitted,  with  printed  in- 
structions and  you  must  proceed  to  your  post  of  duty  within  thirty 
days. 

The  consular  commission  is  sent  directly  by  the  department 
to  the  legation  of  the  United  States,  at  the  capital  of  the  nation 
to  which  the  consul  is  accredited,  with  instructions  to  apply  to 
that  government  for  the  usual  exequatur,  which  is  forwarded  to 
the  consul  at  his  post. 

The  preliminary  instructions  seem  to  be  on  a  line  with  the 
general  civil  service  idea,  and  are  all  proper  enough  in  matter 
and  form,  but  in  practice,  as  far  as  my  own  experiences  extended, 
they  were  limited  to  a  few  hours  consumed  in  reading  over  the 
official  dispatches  of  my  predecessor. 

A  copy  of  the  consular  regulations  is  presented  to  each  con- 
sul, accompanied  by  the  suggestion  that,  if  this  consular  gospel 
is  lived  up  to,  it  will  insure  the  consul  happiness  in  the  other  part 
of  the  world  in  which  he  is  to  live.  This  volume,  bound  after 
the  style  of  the  army  regulations,  is  a  cyclopedia  which  is  sup- 
posed to  contain,  in  separately  numbered  paragraphs,  instruc- 
tions which  explicitly  define  the  international  law  and  consular 
rules  and  regulations  covering  every  case  that  may  arise. 

An  appendix  gives  the  ruled  forms  for  use  in  the  somewhat 
intricate  bookkeeping  that  is  required  by  the  fifth  auditor  of  the 
Treasury. 

The  "instruction  period"  is  in  a  large  sense  optional.  The 
department  does  not  enforce  this  first  important  requirement 
contained  in  their  own  "regulations." 

That  part  of  the  preliminary  instructions  in  which  I  was 
most  interested  was  in  looking  up  the  proper  form,  and,  as  soon 
as  possible  thereafter  the  making  of  a  draft  on  the  Treasury  for 
salary  for  the  thirty  days'  instruction  period.  I  further  disre- 
garded the  regulations  by  delaying  leaving  for  my  post  for  nearly 


5C  AN  AMERICAN  CONSUL  IN  AMAZONIA. 

ninety  days,  and  if  I  could  have  consistently  done  so,  I  should 
have  confined  my  consular  duties  at  that  point  to  the  making  of 
other  drafts  for  the  transit  time  allov^^ed  by  law,  after  arrival  out, 
and  finally  for  return  home.  The  journey  by  the  Brazilian  steamer 
told  in  the  preceding  chapters  is  practically  the  same  as  on  my 
first  trip.  On  the  first  voyage  out,  there  were  a  few  passengers 
to  Para  who  were  employed  by  the  American  rubber  trust,  all  of 
whom  seemed  to  be  interested  in  my  predecessor  at  Para,  and  I 
may  add  who  entertained  a  prejudice  against  his  successor.  This 
was  not  particularly  personal,  but  naturally  the  writer  realized 
the  unfriendly  disposition,  and  was  inclined  to  resent  its  ex- 
hibition. 

Some  friendly  hints  from  the  captain  and  others  served  to 
post  me,  and  gave  me  an  insight  into  the  Para  program. 

The  slow  sailing  steamer  aflForded  time  for  leisurely  consid- 
eration and  careful  rereading  of  correspondence  hastily  glanced 
at  in  the  final  hurry  of  preparation  for  departure. 

A  first  view  of  Para  from  the  deck  of  a  steamer  anchored 
in  the  stream,  during  one  of  the  driving  rain  storms  that  usually 
come  in  the  early  evening  in  that  latitude,  creates  such  feelings 
of  depression  as  a  political  prisoner  would  probably  experience 
who  had  been  exiled  to  some  Moorish  city. 

During  the  voyage  I  had  been  regaled  by  the  ship's  officers, 
in  an  apparently  friendly  spirit,  with  lugubrious  accounts  of  my 
new  home  so  that  I  felt  inclined  to  accept  their  suggestion  and 
go  on  down  the  coast  to  Rio,  and  not  get  off  at  Para. 

Not  only  the  officers,  but  the  sailors  and  stewards  volunteered 
disparaging  observations  in  regard  to  the  undesirability  of  the 
city  as  a  place  of  residence.  The  Brazilian  doctor  also  declared 
it  to  be  a  "beastly  hole." 

One  old  gentleman,  who  had  lived  in  Brazil  for  some  years, 
took  me  aside  to  give  me  some  precautionary  advice  as  to  taking 
proper  care  of  myself.  He  was  even  considerate  enough  to  pre- 
scribe for  me  in  advance,  when  I  should  feel  the  first  symptoms 
of  the  yellow  fever,  as  if  that  were  to  come  as  a  matter  of  course. 


CONSULAR  APPOINTMENTS.  51 

There  was  no  attempt  at  a  scare,  or  putting  up  of  a  job  on 
a  new  comer.    These  gentlemen  really  meant  to  do  me  a  kindness. 

The  captain  related  the  story  of  a  young  couple  whom  he 
had  left  at  Para  on  the  previous  voyage.  The  husband  died  of 
the  fever  before  the  ship  reached  Rio,  and  the  captain  had  taken 
the  widow  to  the  United  States  on  his  return  trip. 

I  am  constrained  to  add  here  that  my  subsequent  experience 
in  Brazil,  and  somewhat  extended  travel  on  board  steamers  on 
nearly  every  sea,  have  confirmed  the  rather  heterodox  belief  that, 
as  a  rule,  professional  seagoing  people  know  but  little  about  the 
countries  they  visit  beyond  hazy  impressions  obtained  from  their 
anchorage  in  the  ports. 

It  is  well  enough  known  that  the  water  fronts  of  all  South 
American  cities  are  unhealthful  and  disagreeable  to  the  visitor. 

As  stated  in  my  book,  "The  Land  of  Tomorrow,"  the  steam- 
ers anchor  in  the  Para  river  opposite  the  city,  a  river  of  which 
no  Brazilian  has  ever  heard.  They  call  it  "Guajara"  Bay  (pro- 
nounced Y-yah-rah).  It  is  only  a  picturesque  little  nook,  several 
miles  in  extent,  in  the  labyrinth  of  channels  and  tropical  islands 
and  yellow  colored  sea  which  is  called  the  mouth  of  the  Amazon. 

There  is  not  sufficient  room  in  the  channel  anchorage  to  turn 
a  steamship,  so  that  when  they  come  in  and  anchor  head  up,  they 
must  wait  for  the  incoming  tide  to  "swing  them,"  since  they  can 
only  go  out  to  sea  when  the  current  is  running  up  stream. 

We  anchored  about  four  P.  M.,  and  were  soon  after  visited 
by  the  health  and  customs  officers.  I  did  not  care  to  go  ashore 
with  the  party  who  took  advantage  of  the  return  of  the  custom 
launch  to  spend  the  night  in  the  city,  but  walked  the  deck  until 
long  after  the  row  of  gas  lamps  along  the  water  front  had  lighted 
the  walls  of  the  closed  warehouses. 

The  picture,  in  its  quiet  stillness,  resembled  in  my  mind  a 
drop  curtain,  the  gas  lamps  being  the  footlights  in  the  front  of  a 
stage  on  which  was  to  be  enacted  what  might  be  a  drama,  farce 
or  tragedy  that  to  me  was  to  be  particularly  interesting. 

Being  rocked  to  sleep  in  "the  cradle  of  the  deep"  on  a  mov- 
ing steamer  has  some  discomforts,  but  those  who  remained  aboard 


52  AN  AMERICAN  CONSUL  IN  AMAZONIA. 

all  night  agreed  that  they  would  rather  have  spent  the  night  on 
a  rough  sea  than  at  anchor  in  the  harbor  of  Para,  because  of  the 
closeness  and  warmth  of  the  rooms  and  the  persistent  greetings 
of  the  Amazon  mosquitos. 

After  early  coffee,  some  of  our  passengers,  who  had  been 
studying  their  Portuguese  grammars  during  the  voyage,  aston- 
ished the  swarthy  boatmen  in  turbans  and  trousers  who  thronged 
the  ship's  sides,  by  their  ludicrous  attempts  to  negotiate  terms, 
in  Portuguese,  for  getting  ashore. 

It  was  easy  enough  to  ask  questions.  The  answers  were  the 
puzzles.  The  difficulty  seemed  to  be  to  make  a  positive  bargain 
for  a  safe  return  in  time,  the  placard  at  the  gangway  stating  that 
the  ship  would  sail  at  four  P.  M. 

It  is  good  advice  to  all  sightseers  to  go  ashore  early  in  the 
day  in  all  the  tropical  ports  and  get  back  early,  because  of  the 
intensity  of  the  sun's  rays  during  the  middle  of  the  day. 

The  captains  say  that  everybody  who  goes  ashore  at  Para, 
late  in  the  m"orning,  returns  to  the  ship  hot  and  disgusted  with 
their  visit ;  but  it  is  because  they  select  the  hot  hours  to  go  about, 
when  even  the  natives  hunt  the  shade.  They  say  only  the  Eng- 
lish and  dogs  go  around  in  the  sun. 

It  was  as  early  as  seven  o'clock  when  we  landed  from  our 
boat  on  to  the  stone  steps  of  the  government  pier.  Walking 
briskly  through  the  Gothic  trapeche,  the  new  consul  to  that  port, 
as  his  foot  first  touched  the  soil  of  Brazil,  quietly  and  unosten- 
tatiously lifted  a  hat  in  respectful  salute  of  the  new  republic,  to 
which  I  was  an  accredited  official  from  the  oldest  and  most  in- 
fluential republic  on  the  northern  hemisphere,  to  the  youngest  of 
the  South  American  republics. 

We  straggled  in  scattered  groups  along  the  narrow  pave- 
ments of  the  narrow  street  that  led  up  into  the  town,  through 
what  seemed  like  a  gateway  between  a  large  warehouse  building 
on  one  corner  and  the  massive  abandoned  Jesuit  church  on  the 
opposite  side. 

Just  inside  the  block  fronting  the  entrance  to  the  church 
we  were  pleasantly  surprised  to  find  a  beautiful  little  plaza  or 


CONSULAR  APPOINTMENTS.  53 

tropical  garden,  tastefully  laid  out  with  graveled  walks,  on  each 
side  of  which  were  arranged  seats;  and  scattered  about  were 
numerous  beds  of  lovely  flowers  of  delightful  fragrance,  includ- 
ing rare  orchids. 

A  handsome  bronze  statue,  with  an  inscription  in  Portu- 
guese, eulogistic  of  one  of  their  patriots,  stands  on  a  pedestal 
in  the  centre.  Near  this  is  a  picturesque  grotto  made  from  im- 
ported rough  stone,  over  which  ripples  the  clear  water  from  a 
pretty  fountain  that  finds  its  winding  way  into  several  small  pools, 
where  living  specimens  of  the  finny  tribes  that  inhabit  the  Amazon 
river  may  be  found,  the  most  interesting  of  which  perhaps  is  the 
sea  ox  or  cow. 

Wading  about  or  stalking  in  the  tall  grass  skirting  the  water 
edge,  were  some  rare  specimens  of  the  birds  of  rich  and  gorgeous 
plumage  that  are  to  be  found  only  in  the  tropics.  Perhaps  the 
most  valuable  are  species  of  white  heron,  from  which  the  aigrette 
feathers  are  secured  that  are  said  to  be  more  valuable  per  ounce 
than  the  finest  ostrich  plumes.  Also  noisy  parrots  and  rare 
monkeys,  prized  and  valued  according  to  their  near  approach  to 
the  human  voice  or  form. 

This  little  park  was  our  first  surprise,  appearing  like  an 
emerald  mosaic  gem  set  in  the  midst  of  an  incongruous  mass  of 
that  peculiarly  dull  Portuguese  architecture  with  which  it  was 
surrounded,  the  bright  glare  of  tropical  sun  enhancing  the  incon- 
gruities of  one  and  the  brightness  of  the  other. 

As  a  fitting  background  to  this  pretty  picture  are  the  massive 
walls  of  the  now  abandoned  church  of  the  Jesuits,  who  were 
expelled  from  the  country  which  they  did  so  much  to  develop. 

It  is  said  that  the  very  interesting  and  tragic  history  of  the 
early  settlement  of  Amazonia  may  be  gathered  from  the  "sermons 
in  stone"  in  the  walls  of  this  edifice. 

The  bells  in  the  square,  Moorish  looking  steeple,  that  once 
rang  to  call  the  faithful  to  worship,  have  been  silent  for  many 
years.  The  beautiful  entrance  and  interior  remain  undisturbed, 
a  solemn  and  impressive  monument  to  the  noble  religio-bellicose 
zeal,  valor  and  skill  of  the  early  Catholic  settlers.    The  elaborate 


54  AN  AMERICAN  CONSUL  IN  AMAZONIA. 

churches  are  a  constant  surprise  to  the  traveler  in  this  country, 
especially  to  the  new  missionaries. 

There  seems  to  be  in  the  minds  of  the  officials  who  seized 
the  property  a  spirit  of  reverence  for  the  sacred  edifice,  which 
prohibits  its  being  used  for  other  purposes,  and  which  has  thus 
far  prevented  its  destruction. 

Adjoining  this  church  is  a  large  convent  that  has  also  been 
confiscated,  but,  unlike  the  church,  this  building  presents  an  active, 
bustling  appearance,  being  used  as  the  alfandega  or  custom  house 
into  whose  capacious  rooms  everything  that  comes  to  Para  must 
be  stored  to  await  leisurely  examination. 

On  three  sides  of  this  plaza  are  three  different  lines  of  street 
cars,  two  of  which  are  narrow  gauge.  They  call  them  "Bonds," 
not,  as  has  been  said,  because  of  the  great  number  of  bonds 
(guaranteed  by  the  municipality)  that  were  floated  to  run  the 
cars,  but  because  of  their  introduction  through  the  persistent 
efforts  of  an  Englishman  by  the  name  of  Bond.  The  Brazilian 
companies  recognized  the  improvement  he  had  inaugurated  by 
taking  his  name  into  their  titles  of  incorporation. 

In  our  first  hour  ashore  we  walked  only  about  the  narrow, 
dirty  and  ill  smelling  streets  and  narrower  sidewalks  of  the  old 
town,  gazing  into  the  curious  shops,  and  being  gazed  at  by  curi- 
ous shoppers. 

The  attention  of  visitors  was  attracted  by  numerous  small 
red  flags  attached  to  the  doorways  or  walls  of  the  low  tile  covered 
shops. 

Instinctively  the  passengers  from  the  north,  probably  from 
the  impressions  obtained  aboard  the  American  ships,  jumped  to 
the  conclusion  that  as  a  red  flag  is  an  almost  universal  signal  of 
danger,  these  people  had  adopted  its  use  here  as  a  notice  to  for- 
eigners that  the  dread  yellow  fever  was  prevailing  inside  the 
houses  so  designated,  just  as  we  indicate  the  existence  of  small- 
pox, or  diphtheria  by  attaching  a  yellow  flag  or  placard  at  the 
doors  of  infected  houses.  We  gave  these  flags  a  wide  berth. 
Some  of  our  party,  being  almost  panic  stricken  at  the  sight  of 
them,  were  disposed  to  take  precipitous  flight  to  the  ship. 


CONSULAR  APPOINTMENTS.  55 

A  new  comer,  be  he  a  Johnny  Bull  or  an  American  turkey 
gobbler,  will  be  apt  to  reverse  the  rule  and  turn  tail  and  run  from 
the  flaunting  of  a  red  flag  in  Para.  I  subsequently  ascertained 
that  the  lavish  display  of  these  red  flags,  which  always  appeared 
in  dirty  looking  houses,  was  simply  to  advertise  that  the  shop 
keepers  had  fresh  meat  on  sale,  which  must  be  disposed  of  within 
a  few  hours,  the  prices  declining  each  hour. 

Like  all  cities.  Para  has  its  dark  as  well  as  bright  side.  The 
tourist  is  apt  to  see  only  the  former. 

If  the  visitor  will  board  the  street  cars  at  Palace  Square, 
leading  through  the  beautiful  Royal  Palms  that  line  either  side 
of  the  Estrado  S.  Jose,  to  the  attractive  suburb  of  Nazareth,  he 
will  be  astonished  to  find  elegant  cottage  houses  on  fine,  broad 
avenues  shaded  by  mango  trees,  nestling  in  the  midst  of  beautiful 
gardens  that  indicate  the  comfortable  homes  of  as  refined  and 
cultured  residents  as  any  they  may  have  left  in  the  more  favored 
lands. 

The  increasing  warmth  of  the  early  sun  served  both  to  ex- 
haust the  weaker  and  admonish  the  stronger  of  our  party  that  it 
is  not  advisable  for  a  stranger  to  attempt  to  bulldoze  this  climate, 
as  they  sometimes  do  the  natives  of  this  latitude. 

We  adjourned  to  the  Hotel  Central  for  rest  and  refreshment, 
under  the  same  roof  beneath  which  I  lived  during  the  remaining 
days  and  nights  of  residence  in  this  tropical  city. 

The  Central  is  the  Delmonico  of  Para,  patronized  by  the  best 
people,  a  large  majority  of  whom  are  resident  foreigners.  As 
the  genial  proprietor  was  himself  a  professional  Parisian  chef, 
it  goes  without  saying  that  Monsieur  George  knows  how  to  run 
a  hotel. 

After  a  pleasant  breakfast  with  our  ship's  party,  kindly 
farewells  were  exchanged  in  which  words  of  good  cheer  and  en- 
couragement were  accompanied  by  smilies  of  sympathy  from  the 
ladies,  and  I  was  left  "Alone  in  my  glory." 


CHAPTER    VL 


MY    PREDECESSOR. 

(imilllllll.lll)lii|illlllllll«  HAD  heard  my  predecessor  pleasantly 
I  spoken  of  on  board  the  steamer,  by  the 
officers  who  had  known  him  in  a  social 
way  during  their  brief  visits  to  the  port, 
as  an  accommodating  consul  who  had 
adapted  himself  to  the  peculiar  surround- 
ings of  that  place. 

He  had  filled  the  position  during 
four  or  five  years,  having  been  retained  during  the  administration 
of  President  Cleveland  through  the  influence  of  the  then  Mayor 
of  New  York  City,  Mr.  W.  R.  Grace,  who  was  the  heaviest  Amer- 
ican exporter  of  rubber  from  this  port. 

His  removal  was  wholly  unexpected  by  himself  and  a  sur- 
prise to  his  numerous  friends,  whom  I  subsequently  ascertained 
had  hastily  been  to  the  great  expense  of  cabling  a  numerously 
signed  protest  to  Washington,  asking  his  retention  after  his  suc- 
cessor had  been  nominated. 

Immediately  upon  my  appointment,  and  without  any  knowl- 
edge of  opposition  to  a  change,  I  had  courteously  written  to  the 
consul,  stating  my  sincere  regrets,  assuring  him  that  I  was  in  no 
sense  personally  responsible,  that  I  had  not  been  seeking  his  place 
at  all,  but  was  an  applicant  for  a  vacancy,  and  was  being  sent 
out  not  as  a  reward  for  political  influence,  but  as  an  old  soldier 
and  a  newspaper  scout,  to  afford  facilities  to  write  of  the  possi- 
bilities for  business  of  American  merchants,  availing  myself  of 
the  opportunity  of  adding,  with  sincere  and  good  feeling  as  from 
one  gentleman  to  another,  some  matters  of  a  personal  and  private 
nature  to  myself. 


An  luiglish  Lady  of  refine- 
ment wliii  has  lived  long  in 
Brazil  and  who  eourteously 
entertained  the  Cinisul  in  her 
elegant  home  in  Manaos,  a 
thonsand   miles   ahovc   Para. 


Senhor  Justo  Chermont,  for- 
mer attache  of  the  Brazilian 
Legation  at  Washington,  and 
the  Governor  and  Secretary  of 
State  of  Brazil  and  friend  of 
"O  Consul." 


MY  PREDECESSOR.  57 

A  typewritten  reply  was  briefly  made,  to  the  effect  that  it 
was  the  most  unhealthful  as  well  as  the  most  expensive  place  on 
the  civilized  globe. 

My  nomination  was  made  in  May,  and  my  arrival  at  the 
post  was  in  the  following  September. 

I  had  been  in  port  all  night,  and  through  the  city  during  the 
day,  without  making  myself  known  as  the  new  consul  who  had 
been  expected  for  some  time. 

I  was  indifferent  because  the  general  appearance  of  things 
served  to  confirm  the  unfavorable  impression  I  had  received,  so 
that  I  seriously  considered  the  propriety  of  not  taking  hold  at  all, 
realizing  that  once  assuming  charge,  I  should  become  responsible 
and  would  not  then  be  at  liberty  to  get  away  until  relieved  by  the 
slow  process  of  a  new  appointment. 

I  had  not  made  a  first  call  on  the  consul,  as  is  the  usual 
custom  of  visitors,  to  pay  my  respects. 

I  was  in  nowise  offended  at  the  scant  courtesy  shown  by 
my  predecessor  not  coming  aboard  to  meet  me  during  the  evening 
and  morning  of  my  first  day. 

In  addition  to  the  reasons  already  stated,  a  sense  of  deli- 
cacy or  consideration  for  my  predecessor's  feelings  prompted  me 
to  postpone  as  long  as  possible  the  imperative  duty  of  personally 
presenting  my  papers  containing  the  official  notification  of  dis- 
missal, the  duplicates  of  which  had,  however,  been  mailed  some 
months  previous. 

I  probably  first  made  myself  known  by  the  inquiries  I  was 
obliged  to  make  in  English  as  to  the  whereabouts  of  the  consulate. 

An  inscription  in  Portuguese,  "Consulate  Dos  Estados  Uni- 
dos,"  on  a  brass  plate,  on  the  inside  door  of  an  upper  room  in 
the  large  Amazon  building,  disclosed  the  consulate. 

There  was  no  responsive  echo  of  welcome  to  my  knock. 
Upon  opening  the  door  I  looked  into  a  large,  square  room.  The 
consul  was  not  at  home;  feeling  as  if  I  had  some  privilege  about 
the  premises,  I  ventured  inside.  A  couple  of  seedy  looking  book- 
cases, on  the  shelves  of  which  were  displayed  several  square  feet 


58  AN  AMERICAN  CONSUL  IN  AMAZONIA. 

of  consular  and  Patent  Office  reports,  were  on  one  side  of  the 
whitewashed  walls;  an  old  fashioned  farmer's  desk  occupied  a 
prominent  place  in  the  center  of  the  uncarpeted  and  unwashed 
oak  planked  floor,  a  half  dozen  cheap  and  broken  chairs  were 
scattered  about.  These  articles  comprised  about  all  the  furniture 
the  room  contained.  In  the  front  were  two  large  windows,  which 
afforded  an  excellent  view  of  the  water  and  shipping  in  the  harbor. 

The  consular  coat  of  arms,  displaying  in  faded  colors  the 
full  fledged  American  eagle,  was  roosting  high  up  near  the  rafters 
of  the  lofty  ceiling,  as  if  to  escape  observation. 

Leaving  a  card  with  my  hotel  address  on  the  desk,  I  turned 
to  go,  when  I  was  met  at  the  door  by  an  agent  of  the  American 
ship  company  who  introduced  to  me  my  predecessor. 

My  first  impressions  of  him  were  so  favorable  that  I  take 
this  opportunity  of  putting  on  record  the  feeling  that  I  had  been 
misinformed,  and  that  I  was  glad  to  find  him  a  most  affable  and 
genial  gentleman. 

In  personal  appearance  he  was  a  young  man  whose  full, 
round,  smoothly  shaven  face  reminded  me  of  a  clever  comedian 
off  the  stage.  In  the  cordial  offhand  manner  of  the  actor,  he  at 
once  offered  some  effusive  apologies,  and  proffered  needless  ex- 
planations of  his  failure  to  meet  me  on  board. 

I  took  occasion  to  again  express  my  sincere  regret  at  his 
removal,  and  felt  quite  relieved  on  his  assuring  me  that  he  fully 
understood  that  I  was  in  no  way  personally  responsible. 

I  was  further  gratified  by  his  emphatic  assurance  that  he 
was  glad  to  be  relieved.  He  declared  that  he  was  disgusted  with 
the  consular  duties,  considering  the  four  years  devoted  to  the 
service  of  his  country  as  so  much  of  the  most  valuable  part  of 
his  life  wasted. 

Our  views  coincided  in  the  sentiment  that  republics  were  un- 
grateful, my  experience  being  that  I  had  wasted  four  of  the  best 
years  of  my  life  in  a  war,  and  the  only  reward  I  had  received 
was  being  sent  out  here  to  end  my  days  in  the  service  of  my 
country  in  the  hades  or  purgatory  from  which  he  was  being  hap- 
pily extricated. 


MY  PREDECESSOR.  59 

The  consul  repeatedly  emphasized  the  comforting  assurance 
that  he  had  expended  over  a  thousand  dollars  each  year  over  and 
above  his  salary  in  defraying  his  actual  living  expenses  as  an  un- 
married man.  He  further  took  away  my  breath  by  the  statement 
that  he  was  penniless  and  was  begging  a  passage  home. 

I  thought  at  the  time  that  this  might  be  a  little  exaggeration, 
but  subsequently  I  found  it  to  be  one  of  the  real  facts  that  he 
bequeathed  to  his  successor. 

I  hastened  to  assure  my  predecessor,  that  I  would  not  remain 
in  Para,  and  volunteered  my  services  in  recommending  his  re- 
instatement, as  his  friends  desired,  suggesting  that  in  the  interim 
his  numerous  acquaintances  might  be  useful  in  securing  him  a 
situation  in  their  business  houses  in  Para.  Further,  I  would 
facilitate  his  renomination  by  making  him  the  vice-consul  and  at 
once  vacate  the  place  on  an  extended  leave  of  absence,  going  up 
the  river,  leaving  him  in  charge,  which  would  certainly  result  in 
his  becoming  consul  de  facto. 

But  it  will  be  seen  subsequently  that  more  potent  influences 
prevailed  at  the  time,  arrangements  having  been  consummated 
during  the  previous  weeks  whereby  a  "testimonial"  had  been 
solicited,  resulting  in  a  subscription  of  fifteen  hundred  dollars 
being  collected  by  the  foreign  colony  for  the  benefit  of  the  retir- 
ing United  States  consul. 

This  was  equivalent  to  a  year's  salary  with  a  vacation.  A 
free  passage  to  New  York  had  been  tendered  on  the  American 
line,  all  of  which,  it  was  publicly  stated,  was  to  enable  him  to  use 
his  personal  popularity,  with  that  of  his  friend's  influence  to  bring 
about  his  reinstatement. 

This  acceptance  of  charity  from  foreign  merchants  and  con- 
suls of  other  nations  left  his  successor  in  a  rather  unpleasant 
position,  but,  of  course,  I  could  ofit'er  no  objection  to  the  course 
of  the  consul  accepting  the  gratuity,  but  it  had  the  effect  of  con- 
firming my  determination  to  get  away. 

With  a  desire  to  contribute  my  mite,  I  notified  him  that  he 
might  continue  to  act  as  consul  and  draw  the  salary  as  long  as 


6o  AN  AMERICAN  CONSUL  IN  AMAZONIA. 

possible.  In  pursuance  of  this  plan  I  assumed  the  risk  of  dis- 
regarding instructions  by  delaying  taking  charge  for  nearly  two 
weeks  after  my  arrival. 

He  was  therefore  consul  until  the  day  of  his  sailing  from 
the  port. 

In  this  interim  of  a  fortnight  I  did  not  make  an  appearance 
at  the  consulate,  but  alone  and  in  quietness  wandered  about  the 
streets  in  the  cool  of  the  early  mornings  and  evenings,  and  occu- 
pied myself  during  midday  by  writing  to  the  press  some  letters 
containing  first  impressions  and  observations  of  Para,  part  of 
which  I  beg  to  reproduce  with  such  corrections  as  were  suggested 
by  the  criticisms  of  friends,  and  confirmed  by  subsequent  obser- 
vations. 

I  beg  leave  to  anticipate  the  narrative  by  adding  some  obser- 
vations in  the  consular  service  at  the  time  which  do  not  apply 
to  the  present  "reformed"  Consular  Bureau. 

I  assumed  charge  before  the  receipt  of  my  exequatur,  after 
having  advised  the  young  Governor  of  the  State,  Jacto  Cher- 
mont,  who  had  previously  been  an  attache  of  the  Brazilian  lega- 
tion, at  Washington,  and  who  courteously  recognized  my  action 
by  an  official  letter  accompanied  by  some  kind  words  of  personal 
congratulation. 

The  "instruction"  from  my  predecessor  in  the  duties  was 
limited  to  the  transferring  of  the  property  by  inventory.  I  really 
did  not  know  how  to  certify  to  an  invoice,  but  being  left  to  my 
own  resources,  I  soon  picked  up  the  routine. 

One  of  the  absurdities  of  former  consular  service  consists 
in  the  sending  out  of  persons  like  myself,  to  represent  our  com- 
mercial and  industrial  interests,  who  had  gained  no  previous 
knowledge  of  the  language  of  the  country  to  which  they  are  ac- 
credited. 

This  is  one  of  the  very  important  qualifications  that  was  not 
recognized  by  the  department,  nor  covered  by  the  instruction 
period  in  the  book  of  regulations  at  the  time,  but  has  since  been 
made  obligatory.  It  is  the  general  impression  that  Spanish  is  the 
common  language  of  all  Latin  republics  of  South  America. 


MY  PREDECESSOR.  6i 

The  greatest  of  the  South  American  repubUcs  and  our  near 
neighbor  is  Brazil,  in  which  Portuguese  is  the  language  of  the 
country.  Its  coast  line,  extending  over  three  thousand  miles  along 
the  Atlantic,  and  westward  two  thousand  miles  to  the  Andes, 
covers  an  area  greater  in  extent  than  that  of  all  republics  in  which 
Spanish  is  spoken. 

I  found  myself  occupying  the  position  of  a  United  States 
consul  in  a  foreign  post  who  did  not  understand  a  word  of  the 
language  of  the  country. 

While  I  write  from  actual  experience,  it  must  not  be  as- 
sumed that  I  am  describing  an  exceptional  case  in  our  consular 
service. 

As  a  matter  of  fact,  the  consul  whom  I  relieved,  after  a 
service  of  over  five  years  at  this  same  port,  knew  but  little  more 
of  the  language  than  myself. 

He  was,  of  course,  compelled  to  learn  enough  to  read  a  bill 
of  fare,  or  to  answer  the  common  salutations  of  the  people,  such 
as  any  one  could  pick  up  after  a  few  days'  residence,  but  beyond 
this  he  knew  nothing  of  Portuguese. 

It  was  the  universal  comment  that  the  United  States  consul 
was  obliged  to  conduct  his  official  business  through  English  resi- 
dents who  had  arrived  years  before  the  consul,  and  who  had 
acquired  a  knowledge  of  the  language  of  the  country  and  inter- 
preted for  the  American. 

I  may  add,  in  passing,  that  the  representatives  of  all  other 
nations  speak  not  only  Portuguese,  but  French  and  English,  and 
further,  that  all  their  business  representatives,  even  second-rate 
clerks,  are  obliged  to  learn  the  language  as  a  first  requisite. 
Through  this  proper  requirement,  the  foreign  gentlemen  are 
able  to  conduct  their  business  interests,  and  at  the  same  time, 
talk  glibly  to  the  native  merchants  against  reciprocity  and  Amer- 
ican indifference,  and  there  is  no  one  to  say  them  nay. 

As  previously  stated,  my  illustrious  predecessor  was  de- 
scribed as  one  of  those  jolly,  good  fellows  whose  genial  com- 
panionship had  endeared  him  to  many  of  the  young  Englishmen 


62  AN  AMERICA>J  CONSUL  IN  AMAZONIA. 

with  whom  he  had  been  associated  (hiring  their  years  of  enforced 
exile  in  this  land. 

As  illustrating  the  dense  ignorance  on  the  part  of  some  Eng- 
lish clerks  towards  our  institutions,  I  may  record  the  observation 
that  this  colony  at  Para  was  disposed  to  look  upon  the  removal 
of  their  friend  in  the  nature  of  personal  offense  of  themselves. 
When  no  attention  was  paid  to  their  expensive  cable  protest 
against  our  government's  views  of  the  propriety  of  a  change  at 
Para,  they  were  prepared  to  resent  their  indignation  upon  the 
innocent  head  of  the  new  consul. 

It  may  strike  the  average  reader,  that  though  their  esteem 
for  the  ex-consul  may  have  been  well  deserved,  his  removal,  as 
has  been  shown,  was  not  at  all  of  the  new  consul's  making,  and 
to  treat  a  strange  official  discourteously,  who  was  reluctantly 
obeying  instructions,  was  scarcely  fair  play.  I  discovered  that  I 
was  to  be  "boycotted"  in  a  wholly  unjustifiable  manner. 

One  young  Englishman  undertook  to  tell  me  why  their  friend 
should  not  have  been  removed,  his  specious  argument  being  that 
"he  suited  us ;"  and  as  there  was  nothing  political  in  the  situa- 
tion it  was  an  "outrage." 

When  I  cut  short  the  conversation  with  the  remark  that  I 
was  not  here  to  discuss  the  business  affairs  of  our  foreign  office 
with  an  Englishman,  "Well,  we  are  going  to  have  him  back 
here,"  he  replied. 

I  learned  incidentally  that  it  had  been  quietly  given  out  to 
the  Para  protesters,  from  Washington,  that  my  predecessor  was 
being  removed  because  during  his  five  years'  incumbency  he  had 
done  nothing  in  the  way  of  reporting  upon  the  country,  abso- 
lutely nothing,  while  it  was  understood  I  had  been  appointed, 
because  it  was  supposed  I  had  some  qualifications  for  writing 
about  it,  so  that  before  my  arrival  it  had  been  decided  among 
some  of  the  foreign  colony  to  embarrass  the  new  consul  in  his 
efforts,  and  that  "no  information  was  to  be  given  to  the  new 
consul." 

The  reader  will  please  pardon  so  much  of  what  seems  per- 
sonal, the  reference  to  which  is  really  distasteful  to  myself,  but 


MY  PREDECESSOR.  63 

it  seems  necessary  to  explain  our  peculiar  consular  system  as  well 
as  to  illustrate  by  actual  experience  some  of  the  disagreeable  fea- 
tures of  consular  life  abroad.  It  is  not  intended  as  a  personal 
attack  on  any  one  person  or  clique.  Verily  I  was  a  stranger  in 
a  strange  land. 

I  could  not  talk  to  the  courteous  Brazilians  in  their  tongue, 
and  except  in  a  few  agreeable  instances  they  were  unable  to 
converse  in  mine.  Those  whom  I  might  have  understood  kept 
away  from  me,  being  influenced  by  their  business  relations  with 
the  foreign  element,  who,  desiring  thus  to  evidence  their  fealty 
to  a  departed  friend,  by  abstaining  from  association  with  his 
successor,  in  hopes  of  embarrassing  his  work,  with  a  view  to 
creating  a  vacancy  for  the  return  of  their  friend. 

This  being  the  line  of  action  laid  down  by  a  few  of  the 
English  residents,  the  lower  class,  as  a  natural  sequence,  followed 
the  lead  of  those  they  recognized  as  their  superiors.  Altogether, 
it  was  a  rather  cool  reception  in  a  very  hot  climate. 

Before  I  had  encountered  the  full  force  of  this  cool  wave, 
I  was  anxious  to  depart,  but  discovering  a  propensity  to  freeze 
me  out,  I  concluded  that  I  would  remain  at  least  for  a  brief 
season  to  assist  in  the  entertainment  by  unselfishly  supplying  a 
lively  corpse  for  the  crematory  roasting  which  the  leaders  of  the 
boycott  were  preparing  for  the  new  "Consul  Americano." 

The  only  person  against  whom  I  had  brought  a  prejudice 
to  Para,  was  a  certain  missionary,  whom  I  shall  introduce  early 
as  the  Reverend  Judas.  I  regret  to  add  that  he  was  a  country- 
man, a  so-called  independent  missionary  of  the  church  in  which 
I  had  been  reared.  He  early  impressed  me  as  a  man  of  preju- 
dices, but  conscientious  and  sincere  in  his  views. 

In  reading  over  the  official  communications  to  the  Depart- 
ment of  State  from  Para,  during  the  previous  year  or  so,  which 
is  required  by  the  department,  I  became  unpleasantly  impressed 
by  the  number  of  semi-official  letters  from  this  person,  relating 
to  the  private  and  personal  affairs  of  my  predecessor,  about 
which  he  had  deemed  it  his  duty  as  a  missionary  to  advise  the 
department. 


64  AN  AMERICAN  CONSUL  IN  AMAZONIA. 

It  appeared  that  some  of  these  documents  had  been  referred 
back  to  the  then  consul,  who  had  defended  himself  by  a  numer- 
ously signed  paper  from  the  business  men  of  Para,  having  official 
intercourse  with  the  consulate,  to  the  general  effect  that  there 
was  no  neglect  of  duty,  and  that  the  consul  was  accommodating 
and  courteous. 

These  papers  completely  refuted  the  missionary's  charges, 
and  created  the  impression  in  the  department  that  the  missionary 
was  a  meddlesome  fanatic,  who  sought  to  use  the  consulate,  in  a 
Catholic  country,  as  a  means  to  further  his  narrow  and  bigoted 
religious  views. 

No  reference  of  this  correspondence  was  made  to  the  new 
consul  by  the  officials,  but  when  I  expressed  my  opinion  to  the 
department,  and  referred  to  my  previous  determination  not  to 
do  missionary  work,  one  of  the  department  officials  assured  me, 
that  I  had  "been  strongly  endorsed  by  some  newspaper  men  as 
a  model  Christian." 

The  Reverend  Judas  called  early  to  pay  his  respects. 

In  personal  appearance  he  may  be  briefly  described  as  a 
nervous  blonde,  whose  wiry,  slender  form  is  encased  in  a  thread- 
bare black  coat,  "All  buttoned  down  before,"  which  gives  the 
wearer  a  "shabby  genteel"  appearance.  The  regulation  old  fash- 
ioned silk  hat,  shades  a  pair  of  small  blue  eyes,  which  have  k 
cunning,  rather  than  an  honest  expression.  His  striking  features, 
however,  are  long  sandy  side  whiskers,  and  as  he  walks  or 
glides  along  the  street,  the  ends  fly  back  over  his  shoulders. 
He  is  quite  vain  of  his  personal  appearance. 

As  a  fresh  blonde  he  attracted  considerable  attention  among 
the  brunettes  of  the  lower  class  when  he  first  came  out.  He 
served  the  course  as  an  apprentice  in  a  Portuguese  bakery.  His 
insinuating  manner  and  effeminate  voice  remind  one  of  what 
our  detectives  would  describe  as  a  smooth  article.  He  was  very 
unpopular  with  the  foreign  colony  as  well  as  with  the  Bra- 
zilians. 

Yet  I  employed  him  as  a  Consular  clerk  during  the  first 
months  of  my  incumbency,  simply  because  I  was  forced  to  do  so 


MY  PREDECESSOR.  65 

by  the  conduct  of  those  who  attempted  to  ostracize  me.  I  knew 
that  Judas  would  act  towards  me  as  he  had  to  my  predecessor, 
but  I  needed  some  one  to  do  certain  work  and  he  suited  my 
purpose.  When  a  hunter  goes  gunning  for  game  he  takes  a 
dog  along  to  stir  it  up. 

He  had  lived  in  Para  ten  years,  and  was  thoroughly  familiar 
with  the  language  and  customs  of  the  people,  and  had  latterly 
been  employed  as  a  teacher  of  English  by  some  Portuguese  mer- 
chants, also  as  a  teacher  of  Portuguese  to  the  English,  German 
and  American  newcomers.  He  became  the  private  secretary 
or  clerk  of  the  Consul  at  a  government  salary  in  excess  of  his 
mission  income. 

I  required  an  interpreter,  for  which  duty  he  was  fully 
competent,  and  as  the  government  made  an  allowance  for  this 
service,  I  engaged  him  to  do  the  work.  As  he  was  paid  for  it 
liberally,  my  obligation  ended  when  the  contract  was  completed. 

By  reason  of  his  knowledge  of  both  residents  and  foreign- 
ers, which  he  had  gained,  I  was  able,  without  asking  questions 
through  the  town  myself,  to  obtain  needed  information;  and 
through  his  knowledge  of  the  language,  I  collected  from  Portu- 
guese sources  (which  were  more  trustworthy  than  the  English) 
more  data  in  the  first  months  of  my  residence,  notwithstanding 
the  boycott,  than  my  predecessor  had  reported  in  the  several 
years  preceding. 

It  becomes  a  matter  of  official  etiquette  for  a  Consul,  on 
assuming  charge,  to  send  his  card  to  each  of  the  officials  of  the 
local  government,  as  well  as  to  the  several  colleagues  of  other 
nations;  also  to  formally  advise  the  brother  consuls  from  his 
own  country  who  may  be  located  in  other  parts  of  the  same  na- 
tion to  which  he  is  accredited.  As  I  was  unfamiliar  with  the  city 
directory,  and  my  predecessor  had  not  introduced  me,  I  nat- 
urally made  my  first  mistake  in  permitting  this  clerk  to  have 
charge  of  the  printing,  addressing  and  sending  of  my  official 
cards.  Though  the  error  was  trifling,  and  promptly  corrected 
by  myself,  it  was  mortifying  to  me,  under  the  existing  strained 
relations. 


66  AN  AMERICAN  CONSUL  IN  AMAZONIA. 

This  early  experience  was  useful  as  illustrating  that  though 
Judas  might  be  a  good  preacher,  and  a  competent  clerk,  he  was 
certainly  deficient  in  tact,  if  not  in  common  sense.  Thereafter 
he  performed  such  clerical  duties  as  the  necessities  demanded, 
but  always  under  my   personal  supervision. 

As  stated  in  the  second  paragraph  of  this  chapter,  the  fore- 
going account  refers  to  my  first  visit  to  Para.  In  the  succeeding 
chapter  I  give  my  experiences  during  the  subsequent  visit. 


CHAPTER    VII. 


ASHORE    IN    PARA. 

I  HE  Brazilian  steamers  dock  in  Para, 
all  other  ships  being  compelled  to  an- 
chor in  the  stream  discharging  and 
receiving  cargo  and  passengers  by 
lighter  and  smaller  boats. 

This  afforded  the  desired  oppor- 
tunity to  quietly  step  ashore,  after  cof- 
fee,  permitting   me   to  enjoy   a   quiet 
stroll     alone     through     the     familiar 
streets.      Only   the   shopkeepers,    with 
a   few  early  customers,    were  in  evi- 
dence,  one   or   two   of   whom,   recog- 
nizing the  "Consul,"  came  to  the  front 
to    shake    hands     and     express     their 
compliments  in  Portuguese. 
Among  the  first  to  extend  a  welcome  were  a  lady  and  daugh- 
ter, early  shoppers,  whom   I  had  met  on  board  a    steamer  to 
Lisbon  and  Havre  a  year  previous. 

Knowing  that  my  particular  Brazilian  friend,  Theodosio 
Lacerda  Chermont,  taballeo  or  register  and  recorder,  would 
not  be  in  his  office  so  early,  I  extended  my  walk  through  the 
beautiful  residence  district  leading  to  the  aristocratic  suburbs. 
The  several  crowded  street  cars  which  passed  me  enroute  to 
the  business  section  were  reminders  of  similar  scenes  in  our 
American  cities,  where  the  employed  fill  the  cars  at  certain  hours. 
After  some  inquiries  I  recognized  the  consulate  by  the  flag, 
located  very  conveniently  in  a  typical  Para  casa,  or  house,  situ- 
ated on  one  of  the  principal  residence  streets. 

During  my  incumbency  I  found  the  consulate  occupying  a 
dreary  upper  floor  room  in  the  Amazon  Steamship  Company's 


68  AN  AMERICAN  CONSUL  IN  AMAZONIA. 

building,  and  realizing  that  I  would  not  remain  long,  and  finding 
the  higher  English  officials  congenial  neighbors,  I  took  no  steps 
to  change  the  condition.  The  American  Steamship  Company's 
office  was  also  in  the  same  building. 

I  am  sure  one  of  my  first  mistakes  was  in  not  at  once  secur- 
ing an  independent  home  for  myself,  by  taking  one  of  the  nu- 
merous little  houses  located  in  the  residence  section. 

I  found  the  genial  Consul  occupying  a  pretty,  tiled  Portu- 
guese house,  resembling  in  its  one  story  ground  floor  architecture 
a  variegated  bungalow. 

As  a  rule,  the  small  houses  of  Para  are  on  the  bungalow 
plan  of  one  story,  the  several  rooms  opening  on  a  patio,  vine- 
covered,  open  corridor. 

Ofif  the  front  hallway  of  the  consulate  are  two  doors,  one 
leading  into  a  front,  the  other  into  a  back  room,  each  of  liberal 
dimensions.  Extending  farther  to  the  rear  is  an  open  porch  or 
veranda,  from  which  entrance  is  made  to  the  Consul's  private 
living  rooms,  including  two  bed  chambers,  dining  room  and 
kitchen,  with  bath,  opening  on  to  a  tropical  back  yard. 

My  call  being  before  business  hours,  I  was  cordially  greeted 
by  the  genial  consul,  in  pajamas.  I  complained  of  a  bad  night 
on  board.  He  insisted  upon  my  taking  a  gill  dose  or  decoction 
of  cachasa  and  cinchona  ( quinine  ^  the  usual  preventive  of 
"febres,"  said  to  be  an  infallible  remedy. 

Consul  and  ex-colleague  sat  long  around  the  "desayuno" 
or  early  cafe,  discussing  matters  of  general  interest.  As  the 
genial  and  kindly  influence  of  the  consul  pervades  this  entire 
revisit  of  a  colleague,  I  beg  leave  to  introduce  him  by  repro- 
ducing an  extract  from  an  article  published  in  Washington  and 
at  his  Ohio  home. 

"Consul  Pickerell  is  a  genial  and  popular  gentleman,  large 
of  body,  with  correspondingly  large  heart.  I  have  mentioned 
his  personal  relation  with  a  view  of  giving  the  reader  a  better 
idea  of  the  facilities  for  supplying  reliable  and  practical  data. 
Both  were  somewhat  at  home  in  the  'Land  of  Tomorrow,'  and 
we  freely  discussed  the  conditions,  and  usually  agreed. 


ASHORE  IN  PARA.  69 

"It  was  the  writer's  privilege  to  have  made  a  fourth  revisit 
to  'The  Land  of  Tomorrow'  in  1909  during  a  summer's  vaca- 
tion, going  a  thousand  miles  up  the  Amazon  and  three  thousand 
miles  down  the  coast  to  visit  the  Rio  Exposition.  During  this 
ninety  days  of  pleasant  travel  it  became  a  pleasure  to  have  been 
the  guest  of  my  consular  successor  at  Para,  the  seaport  of  the 
Amazon,  the  Hon.  George  H.  Pickerell,  than  whom  there  is  none 
more  capable  of  giving  reliable  information  at  first  hand.  Mr. 
Pickerell  was  born  and  reared  in  an  atmosphere  of  manufactur- 
ing industry.  For  years  he  was  employed  as  a  skilled  mechanic 
in  a  large  iron  mill  at  Youngstown,  Ohio,  later  becoming  a  trav- 
eling salesman,  and  ultimately  an  official  during  seven  years.  On 
account  of  his  recognized  ability  he  became  a  leader  in  politics, 
and  for  special  services  was  appointed  United  States  consul  to 
the  Azores.  During  a  residence  of  ten  years  as  consul  in  that 
Portuguese  province  he  became  thoroughly  familiar  with  the  lan- 
guage and  the  customs  and  history  of  the  Portuguese,  and  this 
particularly  fitted  him  for  the  important  post  of  consul  to  Para, 
the  seaport  of  the  Amazon." 

Though  I  was  not  an  official  visitor,  the  consul  kindly  in- 
sisted upon  my  making  the  consulate  headquarters  my  home  and 
headquarters  during  my  stay.  I  was  given  a  desk  and  a  supply 
of  stationery  and  urged  to  appropriate  anything  I  needed,  just 
the  same  as  if  I  were  still  consul.  In  addition  to  this  brotherly 
consular  recognition,  it  was  arranged  that  I  should  take  my  meals 
at  the  casa  or  club  where  the  gentlemen  of  the  foreign  colony, 
comprising  the  English  telegraph  and  cable  staff,  with  whom  I 
felt  fraternally  at  home  as  an  old  time  telegrapher.  These  clever 
young  men,  principally  English  clerks,  made  a  comfortable  home, 
presided  over  by  the  widow  of  a  former  resident. 

A  photograph  of  the  young  gentlemen  of  the  club,  taken 
at  the  house,  shows  Consul  Pickerell,  in  black  suit,  first  seated 
on  the  left. 

After  leaving  the  consulate,  I  found  my  way  to  the  well 
remembered  office   of   my   true  and   constant   Brazilian    friend, 


70  AN  AMERICAN  CONSUL  IN  AMAZONIA. 

Colonel  Theodosio  Lacerda  Chermont,  taballeo  or  register  for 
the  State. 

Like  the  Consul,  my  friend  Theodosio  leaves  a  favorable 
impress  on  these  pages,  and  in  the  absence  of  photographs  I 
will  say,  "Theodosio  is  unlike  a  majority  of  native  Brazilians. 
He  is  a  big  man  physically,  and  of  corresponding  big  heart  and 
broad  views  of  life,  and  without  professing  particular  virtues, 
shares  Lincoln's  maxim,  "With  malice  toward  none,  with  charity 
for  all." 

Colonel  Theodosio  is  something  of  an  American  Braziliero, 
speaking  English  fluently,  without  accent. 

He  was  educated  at  Cornell,  where  he  became  the  chum 
of  one  of  General  Grant's  sons,  by  whom  he  was  entertained 
at  the  White  House  during  Grant's  incumbency  as  President. 

As  the  colonel  is  prominently  mentioned,  I  insert  without 
his  knowledge  the  following  brief  biographical  sketch  from  the 
Zeta-Psi  Fraternity  of  North  America,  a  college  society,  including 
in  its  membership  brothers  from  nearly  every  college  or  uni- 
versity. On  page  690,  under  head  of  Cornell  University,  is  the 
following:  "Chermont,  Theodosio  Lacerda,  Para,  Brazil" — A 
Viscount  of  Arary  and  Catharine  lest  Correa  de  Miranda-prep- 
Lisbon  and  Brussels,  Cornell,  1878. 

In  Almanack  Administrative  of  1889,  under  head  of  Necro- 
logocis  das  Casastitular,  page  71 :  "Visconde  de  Arary  Antonio 
Lacerda  Chermont,  Grand  do  Imperio  e  Commendador  das  or- 
dens  de  Cristo  e  Rose  Fallacen  em  5  de  Agosto,  1879,  sa  Prov- 
ince of  Para." 

The  Colonel's  brother,  Justo  Chermont,  was  governor  of 
Para  during  my  consular  time  and  later  became  secretary  of 
state  to  the  Rio  government,  and  also  senator.  Another  brother. 
E.  L.  Chermont,  has  been  for  some  years  the  secretary  of  the 
Brazilian  embassy  at  Washington,  and  still  another  is  a  promi- 
nent physician  at  Para. 

When  I  entered  the  Colonel's  outer  office  the  several  clerks, 
some  of  whom  knew  me  as  a  former  visitor  and  always  a  corre- 


ASHORE  IN  PARA.  71 

spondent,  left  their  desks  to  give  their  chief's  friend  a  welcome. 
The  colonel  dropped  his  pen,  and  hastily  coming  forward,  gave 
me  the  customary  hug,  with  emphasis,  with  the  three  pats  on 
the  back  increased  to  a  dozen  hearty  thumps. 

In  the  somewhat  needless  elaboration  of  my  reception  in 
Para  by  a  few  friends,  the  object  has  been  to  illustrate  by  com- 
parison the  first  and  later  impressions,  and  especially  to  intro- 
duce characters  whose  good  influence  will  pervade  this  effort 
to  make  a  true  record. 

The  following  description  of  first  impressions  of  Para  was 
published  at  my  home,  and  on  receipt  of  papers  by  the  Para 
foreign  colony  was  used  to  prejudice  a  few  Brazilians  against 
the  consul.  Brazilians,  as  a  rule,  are  very  sensitive  to  criticism, 
and  the  Paranese  especially  so,  because  there  seems  to  have  been 
a  general  and  severe  condemnation  of  Para's  health  condition. 
The  writer  was  under  this  impression  at  first,  but  finding  by 
study  and  experience  that  he  was  misinformed  in  some  reports, 
is  glad  of  an  opportunity  to  correct  erroneous  views. 

Para  (pronounced  Pah-rah)  is  by  some  referred  to  as  the 
antipodes  of  Para-dise.     The  official  name  is  Belem  do  Para. 

By  reason  of  the  low  situation  on  the  equator  it  is  not  only 
the  hottest,  but,  for  a  stranger,  a  most  unhealthful  city;  a  dis- 
tinction which  its  rivals  on  the  Brazilian  coast  do  not  attempt 
to  emulate. 

This  general  unhealth fulness  is  due  largely  to  the  alternating 
heat  and  humidity  of  the  atmosphere,  which  is  augmented  by 
the  location  on  the  low  ground  adjacent  to  the  delta  of  the 
Amazon.  Being  practically  surrounded  by  fresh  water,  it  is  not 
only  hot  every  day  in  the  year,  but  correspondingly  damp  every 
night. 

The  rains  which  come  up  from  the  ocean  every  afternoon 
are  copious  as  well  as  refreshing,  and  with  the  winds,  which 
precede  the  heavy  showers,  serve  to  cool  the  parched  atmos- 
phere, rinse  the  tiled  roofing  of  the  houses  and  act  as  a  grateful 
shower  bath  to  not  only  sweltering  humanity,  but  likewise  to  all 


72  AN  AMERICAN  CONSUL  IN  AMAZONIA. 

inanimate  nature,  at  the  same  time  washing  the  streets.  These 
evening  showers  serve  to  make  the  nights  damp.  We  sleep  in 
upper  floor  rooms  that  are  quite  similar,  as  regards  air,  to  those 
of  a  basement  or  cellar  in  the  United  States.  I  do  not  exagger- 
ate in  the  statement  that  shoes  left  on  the  floor  alongside  of  the 
bed  soon  become  covered  with  a  white  mould.  Clothing  hung 
in  wardrobes  and  not  aired  daily  also  become  mouldy,  and  a 
stain  is  left  that  can  not  be  erased. 

One  is  compelled  to  live  quite  high  or  get  up  in  the  air.  In- 
deed, most  of  the  residents  sleep  in  hammocks  stretched  across 
their  bedrooms.  The  doors  and  windows  are  necessarily  closed 
at  night,  causing  the  air  inhaled  to  have  a  peculiarly  pungent, 
musty  smell,  so  that  we  go  to  sleep  feeling  somewhat  as  though 
passing  under  the  influence  of  ether  or  chloroform. 

Yet  in  Para,  with  its  population  of  over  a  hundred  thou- 
sand souls,  the  mortality  among  the  native  residents,  as  far  as 
can  be  ascertained,  is  not  greater  by  comparison  than  that  of 
some  of  our  United  States  cities. 

The  fact  should  be  kept  in  mind,  however,  that  there  are 
no  facilities  for  gathering  reliable  data;  there  is  no  board  of 
health,  no  attempt  at  compiling  statistics  in  this  regard,  except 
probably  that  of  the  religious  society  that  keeps  a  record  of  the 
burials  in  their  cemetery. 

The  very  paper  on  which  I  wrote  my  letters,  though  kept  in 
the  zinc  lined  box  in  which  the  State  Department  sends  out 
supplies,  was  so  damp  that  pen  and  ink  could  scarcely  be  used 
till  the  paper  was  aired.  Those  who  are  in  the  habit  of  wetting 
a  pencil  to  their  lips  would  be  relieved  in  this  climate. 

The  yellow  fever  is  not  confined  to  the  summer  time,  as  in 
our  Southern  States.  They  never  have  any  October  frosts  to 
kill  the  germs,  but,  as  an  English  official  assuringly  informed 
me,  the  disease  prevails  "while  the  days  and  nights  are  equal," 
which,  upon  after  reflection,  I  discovered  to  be  every  day  in 
the  year. 

The  weather  of  one  month  does  not  differ  materially  from 
that  of  another.     One  has  to  look  at  a  calendar  to  discover  the 


ASHORE  IN  PARA.  73 

season,  as  we  do  at  a  watch  for  the  time  of  clay.  The  days 
are  not  only  equal  in  length,  but  they  are  alike  hot,  exceedingly 
hot,  while  the  nights  arc  dark  and  damp.  The  streets  are  well 
lighted  and  full  of  life,  and  Para  looks  better  by  night  than  in 
sunshine. 

While  there  are  always  cases  of  fever  under  treatment,  either 
at  the  houses  or  in  the  hospitals,  the  disease  does  not  seem  to 
be  considered  so  fatal  as  with  us.  They  are  used  to  it,  but  as 
I  was  not,  the  subject  occupied  a  great  deal  of  my  attention. 

The  physicians  of  the  city  often  called  it  by  the  more 
euphonious  name  of  "American  typhus"  in  their  certificate  of 
death.  One  such  case  appeared  in  the  daily  papers  on  the  day 
of  my  arrival. 

Notwithstanding  this  unhealthful  outlook.  Para  has  existed 
for  hundreds  of  years,  it  being  one  of  the  earliest  Portuguese 
settlements  in  South  America. 

To  the  visitor  it  is  in  many  respects  a  most  interesting 
place.  The  streets  in  the  older  part  of  the  city  are  narrow, 
numerous  and  crooked.  Perhaps  it  is  because  they  are  of  scarcely 
greater  width  than  the  sidewalks  of  Washington,  D.  C,  that 
they  are  generally  well  paved  with  imported  Belgian  blocks. 

Street  car  lines  extend  throughout  the  labyrinth  of  little 
streets.  The  cars  (formerly  drawn  by  mules,  but  now  operated 
by  electricity)  are  run  by  native  motormen,  who  blow  noisy  horns 
at  every  crossing.  They  are  constantly  coming  and  going  in  all 
directions   during  the  day. 

In  many  of  the  streets  teams  cannot  pass  when  a  car  is 
on  the  block.  I  never  saw  a  wagon  in  Para,  though  two  wheeled 
carts  drawn  by  small  oxen  and  ponies  are  quite  common. 

Occasionally  some  dilapidated  old  hacks  skirmish  around, 
containing  minor  officials  in  them  (their  carriages  of  state)  or 
a  bridal  party  going  to  and  from  church. 

The  residences  are  small  and  generally  picturesque,  with 
overhanging  balconies  and  bright  colored  shades  at  the  windows, 
queer  looking  hallways  and  low  tiled  covered    roofs  extending 


74  AN  AMERICAN  CONSUL  IN  AMAZONIA. 

over  the  narrow  sidewalk.  The  roofing  is  seemingly  made  from 
split  sections  of  terra  cotta  lapping  each  other  to  form  gutters 
or  corrugated  ridges  in  such  a  way  that  they  effectually  carry 
off  the  water  which  is  showered  on  the  pavements.  The  tile 
also  serves  as  a  useful  nonconductor  from  the  midday  rays  of 
a  torrid  sun,  and  provides  efficient  ventilation. 

The  greater  portion  of  the  old  city  proper  is  composed  of 
these  small  houses,  built  after  the  Portuguese  style  of  archi- 
tecture. The  walls  are  large  tiled  hollow  brick.  The  bricks  are 
cemented  together  by  a  muddy  looking  material,  composed  of 
much  clay,  a  little  sand  and  less  lime.  Over  the  front  portion 
of  the  better  class  of  houses  the  outside  surface  is  covered  with 
variegated  bits  of  tiling,  imported  from  Portugal.  In  a  major- 
ity of  instances  these  are  of  as  fine  a  quality  as  those  used  for 
mantels  and  interior  decorations  with  us. 

The  prevailing  colors  are  of  a  yellow  and  bluish  cast,  while 
the  designs  are  quite  harmonious  and  tasteful.  The  frequent 
rains  keep  them  bright  and  clean. 

I  walked  all  over  town  looking  for  a  chimney.  There  are 
no  hearthstones  in  Para;  a  fire  on  the  hearth  is  one  of  the  fam- 
ily educators  they  have  sadly  missed. 

The  casual  visitor  may  not  have  had  the  pleasure  of  an 
entree  to  these  houses,  but  no  doubt  the  gentlemen  will  have 
noticed  quite  a  number  of  bright,  dark  eyes  peeping  through  the 
shades  or  neat  forms  with  pretty  olive  complexions  posing 
gracefully  over  the  little  balconies  in  the  evenings.  With  a  view 
of  self  preservation  no  doubt,  the  windows  are  slightly  above  the 
ordinary,  so  that  the  senhoritas  have  the  additional  advantage 
of  looking  down  upon  admirers  who  may  be  strolling  along  and 
who  in  consequence  of  this  precaution  are  compelled  to  glance 
upward  toward  the  occupants.  They  cannot  be  conveniently 
reached  from  the  sidewalk,  and,  besides,  there  are  always  some 
black  eyes  at  other  windows. 

A  companion  imagined  that  he  discovered  at  least  two  pairs 
of  black  eyes  that   looked  agreeable,  but  one  cannot  tell  what  a 


ASHORE  IN  PARA.  75 

girl  is  going  to  do  next,  especial  a  Brazilian  senhorita  who  can 
talk  soft  Portuguese  in  a  voice  so  low  and  sweet  that  one  falls 
instinctively  in  love  with  the  caged  bird  even  in  the  dark. 

The  streets  of  Para  are  not  all  of  the  narrow  gauge  and  re- 
verse curve  pattern,  and  the  houses  are  not  all  built  after  the 
adobe  style  that  I  have  tried  to  describe,  and  which  are  located 
in  that  section  generally  known  as  the  old  city,  occupied  prin- 
cipally by  the  Portuguese,  Indian  and  African  citizens  and  their 
descendants. 

There  are  some  wide  streets  leading  out  to  the  elegant  sub- 
urbs on  which  may  be  found  some  strikingly  handsome  cot- 
tages of  various  designs,  nestling  picturesquely  in  the  midst  of 
luxuriant  and  truly  tropical  gardens.  The  more  modern  houses 
are  generally  on  raised  foundations  above  the  shrubbery,  many 
of  them  being  supplied  with  verandas  which  contain  convenient 
hooks  on  which  to  swing  hammocks. 

Such  suburban  homes  are  owned  by  the  better  and  wealthier 
classes  of  Brazilians  or  may  be  occupied  by  foreigners  located 
temporarily  as  representatives  of  large  European  and  American 
business  houses.  The  cultivated  Brazilians  are  a  hospitable  peo- 
ple, and  the  select  society  of  this  neighborhood  is  exceedingly 
agreeable. 

It  is  quite  a  common  mistake  of  the  casual  tourist  to  assume 
that  the  Portuguese  shopkeeper  in  the  city  proper  is  representa- 
tive of  the  genuine  "Braziliero."  There  may  be  found  as  much 
education,  refinement  and  culture  in  Para,  relatively,  as  in  any  of 
our  northern  cities  and  towns  of  similar  size. 

Their  customs  are  so  exclusive  that  the  stranger  can  form 
no  proper  conception  of  the  daily  life  in  this  tropical  city  from 
a  casual  visit. 

I  walked  during  my  first  days  about  the  town  and  suburbs, 
taking  it  all  in  from  the  outside.  As  I  could  speak  but  few  words 
of  Portuguese,  I  was  necessarily  a  quiet  and  silent  observer,  gath- 
ering my  first  impressions  solely  from  what  I  could  see  through 
my  own  eyeglasses,  and  not  at  all  by  what  I  heard. 


76  AN  AMERICAN  CONSUL  IN  AMAZONIA. 

They  are  a  most  polite  people  and  do  not  laugh  when  a 
stranger  makes  a  ridiculous  mistake  in  pronunciation,  though 
their  eyes  look  as  if  they  would  like  to.  Those  I  met  at  first 
were  as  shy  as  little  children.  The  ladies  at  the  windows  have  a 
way  of  gracefully  lifting  their  hands  before  their  faces  and 
quietly  wafting  with  their  fingers  salutations  to  those  in  other 
windows  a  short  distance  off.  Their  little  brown  hands  and 
tapering  fingers  look  as  if  encased  in  nicely  fitting  kid  gloves  of 
neutral  tints. 

The  San  Jose  Avenue,  leading  from  the  large  Government 
Palace  toward  the  ultra  fashionable  suburb,  Nazareth,  cannot  be 
equaled  in  any  American  or  European  city.  On  either  side  of  this 
broad  thoroughfare  are  rows  of  the  largest  and  finest  tropical 
palm  trees. 

They  are  not  the  diminutive  sort  of  scrub  palm  one  sees  in 
Florida,  but  large,  stately  trees,  with  heavy  trunks,  round, 
straight,  beautifully  tapering  and  running  up  beyond  the  tops 
of  the  highest  houses.  The  top  of  each  palm  is  a  graceful  plume 
like  a  cluster  of  leaves,  from  twenty  to  thirty  feet  in  diameter, 
which,  at  the  height  of  sixty  feet  or  more  from  the  ground,  look 
so  light  and  airy  as  it  waves  in  the  breeze  that  it  invariably  im- 
presses one  as  petite.  It  is  a  great  surprise  when  one  for  the  first 
time  encounters  one  of  the  leaves  lying  across  the  street,  wrench- 
ed off  by  some  violent  thunder  storm,  and  sees  that  by 
actual  measurement  the  leaf  is  from  twenty  to  twenty-five 
feet  long. 

The  impression  one  receives  as  he  catches  his  first  view  of 
this  long  avenue,  flanked  by  these  royal  palms,  is  that  of  the 
stateliness  and  martial  dignity  of  the  grand  review.  The  poetry 
is  somewhat  taken  out  of  it,  however,  when  we  ask  the  first 
Brazilian  we  meet  what  is  the  name  of  these  palms,  and  he  re- 
plies :   "We  call  them  palmeiras  barrigudes." 

The  principal  street  of  the  beautiful  aristocratic  suburb, 
Nazareth  Avenue,  is  a  lovely  place  for  a  stroll  during  the  early 
evening  while  the  sun  is  still  shining  or  the  southern  moon  is 
full.     The  broad  pavement  and  sidewalks  are  perfectly  shaded 


ASHORE  IN  PARA.  tj 

by  immense  old  mango  trees  which,  the  year  round,  are  a  dense 
mass  of  fresh,  green  foHage  so  thick  that  not  a  fleck  of  sun- 
light reaches  the  pavement  through  their  wide  spreading,  gen- 
erously rounded  domes. 

It  seems  in  places  to  be  a  complete  mingling  of  forest  and 
city,  some  of  the  old  country  places  still  remaining,  with  the 
architecture  of  a  former  age,  and  with  many  of  the  old,  un- 
touched forest  trees  still  growing  with  their  tangled  and  twisted 
vines  draped  from  lofty  branches  and  long,  delicate  air  roots  wav- 
ing down  from  the  parasites  that  fringe  the  high  limbs. 

Among  the  many  curious  customs  of  the  people  of  this 
city  are  some  which  we  might  appropriately  adopt  in  our  own 
climate.  For  instance,  there  can  be  no  such  thing  as  watered 
milk  in  Para.  The  milk  delivery  comes  around  noiselessly  on  all 
fours.  Droves  of  milch  cows,  linked  or  yoked  in  sections  of 
three  or  four,  with  their  muzzled  calves  following  them  (in  some 
instances  really  tied  to  the  cow's  tail),  are  driven  to  the  cus- 
tomer's door,  and  the  gill  or  pint  of  milk  is  drawn  from  the 
cow's  teats  into  your  own  glass,  and  used  without  the  formality 
of  straining. 

The  reader  may  think  this  a  joke,  but  really  it  is  a  fact.  In- 
deed, if  anybody  had  told  me  such  a  story,  I  should  have  put  it 
down  as  a  sailor's  yarn,  of  the  same  character  as  an  old  salt  once 
gave  me  when  aboard  Admiral  Porter's  side  wheel  frigate  Pow- 
hattan.  When  pointing  out  the  diflcerent  parts  of  the  ship  he  ex- 
plained that  the  round  wheel  house  that  loomed  above  the  deck 
was  the  purser's  cow  house. 

As  previously  stated,  there  are  no  four  wheel  wagons  in 
Para,  only  rickety  drays  and  cabs.  Everything  else,  except  street 
cars  and  hacks,  goes  on  two  wheels,  drawn  by  diminutive  mules 
or  ponies. 

The  drivers  never  ride,  but  walk  and  lead  the  animals  by 
a  long  rope.  I  suppose  the  mule  could  not  well  be  driven.  The 
streets  are  nearly  all  paved  with  blocks  imported  from  Portugal 
as  ballast  and  laid  down  at  an  estimated  cost  of  twenty-five  lo 
tiftv  cents  each. 


78  AN  AMERICAN  CONSUL  IN  AMAZONIA. 

As  there  are  many  miles  of  this  paving,  there  are  millions 
in  it.  It  occurred  to  me  as  being  a  good  field  for  concrete  pave- 
ment, especially  of  the  block  pattern,  which  I  imagine  could  be 
supplied  cheaper  than  the  stone.  Concrete  v^ould  be  well  adapted 
to  tlie  climate,  as  there  are  no  frosts,  though  perhaps  the  intense 
heat  would  soften  the  material.  The  sidewalks  are  nicely  paved 
with  stone  slabs  imported  from  Portugal. 

There  is  a  system  of  sewerage  in  Para  that  serves  to  keep  the 
city  clean.  In  addition  to  this  the  authorities  rigidly  enforce 
the  collection  of  garbage.  The  houses  and  shops  deposit  the 
sweepings  at  night,  which  are  collected  by  carts;  from  these  it 
is  taken  by  street  cars  made  for  the  purpose,  and  running  on  the 
ordinary  tram  tracks.  The  streets  are  swept  clean  by  hand 
every  night,  and  the  sweepings  removed  in  the  same  cars.  Be- 
sides this  daily  gathering  up  of  refuse  matter,  we  have  during 
the  winter  or  rainy  season  frequent  heavy  showers  that  wash 
the  streets  and  flush  the  sewers.  This  cleanliness  is  an  urgent 
necessity. 

The  ungainly  looking  buzzards  are  also  protected,  because 
their  sharp  eyes  detect  and  pounce  upon  decaying  matter  that 
might  otherwise  be  missed. 

There  is  a  telephone  system  that  embraces  three  hundred 
exchanges.  It  seems  very  funny  to  hear  the  fast  talking  Portu- 
guese at  the  box  and  watch  the  impatient  grimaces  when  the 
service  does  not  exactly  suit  them. 

The  gas  furnished  by  the  English  company  is  of  inferior 
quality  and  very  expensive,  because  the  coal  has  to  be  brought 
from  England.  The  petroleum  light  (kerosene)  of  the  United 
States  is  really  preferred  to  gas. 

The  people  of  these  districts  produce  nothing  for  their  own 
support  except  fruit  and  a  substance  called  "farinha,"  which  is 
a  coarse  meal,  made  from  the  same  root  as  tapioca,  called  "man- 
ioc," which  is  left  after  the  tapioca  has  been  partly  taken  out 
by  washing. 

The  cost  of  living  at  the  hotel  is  from  six  to  nine  milreis  per 
(lay,  which  is  equivalent  to  two  to  three   dollars,  including  wine, 


ASHORE  IN  PARA.  79 

with  fare  not  so  good  as  can  be  obtained  in  a  private  hotel  in 
Washington  for  two  dollars  a  day.  There  are  no  boarding 
houses  in  Para,  and  no  family  admits  outsiders  or  boarders  or 
lodgers.  One  must  either  take  a  house,  keep  bachelor's  hall  with 
a  chum,  or  live  at  a  hotel.  My  conclusion  was,  after  the  first 
few  days,  that  the  United  States  consul  at  Para  is  located  in  the 
hottest,  unhealthiest,  and  most  expensive  place  in  all  the  con- 
sular list. 


CHAPTER    VIII. 

THE    CLIMATE. 

Y  first  (lays  were  spent  in  solitary  strolls 
in  shady  places,  as  a  quiet,  but  "close 
observer,"  sending  weekly  letters  to  the 
press  syndicates  attempting  to  describe 
my  first  impressions,  of  which  the  fol- 
lowing is  given  as  originally  published 
(and  criticised  by  the  Para  papers,  at 
the  instigation  of  some  of  the  foreign 
element). 

"Let  us  talk  about  the  weather."  Those  who  live  in  this  hot 
land  do  not  accost  every  one  they  meet  with  our  stereotyped  ob- 
servation. "Is  this  hot  enough  for  you?"  They  are  used  to  it. 
There  are  no  sunless  days  in  Amazonia ;  climatically  one  day  is 
like  all  the  rest.  They  are  not  only  equal  in  length,  but  are  all 
alike,  hot — exceedingly  hot — and  "the  nights  are  long  and  damp 
and  gay,  though   the  winds  and  rains  are  never  weary." 

There  are  no  twilights,  no  romantic  gloamings  in  this  latitude. 
The  sun,  like  a  red  hot  copper  ball,  comes  up  out  of  the  Atlantic 
at  the  same  hour  and  minute  each  morning  and  during  all  the  day 
seems  to  swing  low.  discharging  in  its  course  along  the  line  of 
the  equator  fierce  electric  waves  of  glaring  light  and  heat,  until 
shaded  by  the  crimson  edged  clouds  that  blow  from  the  ocean 
each  evening.  It  disappears  behind  the  distant  western  Andes 
at  the  same  hour  each  evening.  The  sable  curtain  of  night  rolls 
down  upon  the  scene  as  suddenly  as  that  upon  the  mimic  stage, 
and  we  are  alone  in  the  darkness  of  a  tropical  night. 

There  are  no  agreeable  changes  of  season  as  with  us ;  no 
joyous  spring  time,  restful  summer,  fruitful  autumn,  no  invig- 
orating winter.  I  found  it  just  as  hot  in  December  as  in  August; 
however,  at  night  it  is  cool,  as  well  as  damp  and  dark. 


A  broad  avenue  in  the   sulnirlis  of   Para,  sliadcd  hy  double  rows  of 

the  Alangoe  trees  whose  generousl\-  rounded  duuie  jiroteets 

the    promenade    from   the    tropical   sun. 


THE   CLIMATE.  8i 

"The  flowers  that  bloom  in  the  spring"  have  nothing  to  do 
with  the  case  down  there. 

Vegetation  of  all  sorts  is  as  fresh,  green  and  as  profusely 
beautiful  in  the  middle  of  winter  as  at  any  other  season  of  the 
year. 

Some  years  ago,  when  traveling  in  the  far-west  of  our  own 
country,  I  thought  nothing  could  be  more  desolate  than  the  dreary 
waste  of  hundreds  of  miles  of  alkali  and  sage  brush  along  the 
Pacific  railroads,  where  people  long  for  a  little  rain  to  cool  the 
atmosphere  and  satisfy  the  cravings  of  the  parched  earth. 

In  Para  we  have  topographically  the  same  flat  surface  forma- 
tion, with  the  other  extreme  of  too  much  water,  which  with  the 
heat  brings  forth  the  too  abundant  vegetation,  that  is  sometimes 
rank  and  "smells  to  heaven." 

While  a  resident  of  Para  I  thought  that  I  should  thereafter 
prefer  the  dry,  healthy,  arid  desert  land  of  our  own  country  to 
this  deadly  heat  and  dampness  that  almost  causes  moss  to  grow 
on  one's  back. 

One  cannot  whistle  his  way  out  of  the  woods  that  surround 
one  so  densely  on  all  sides.  He  can  only  see  the  sky  through  the 
leafy  mangoes  or  sighing  palm  trees. 

On  the  prairies  of  our  country  one  has  the  satisfaction  of 
looking  a  long  distance  even  though  he  doesn't  see  much. 

In  December  they  have  at  Para  what  they  call  "the  change 
of  the  season,"  or  the  beginning  of  winter — that  is,  from  the  drj- 
to  the  wet  season.  I  fail  to  detect  any  difference  except,  perhaps, 
that  it  is  a  little  hotter  in  midday,  and  rain  storms  are  more  fre- 
quent in  the  evening,  keeping  one  indoors  during  the  only  pleas- 
ant part  of  the  day. 

Everybody  in  Para  carries  an  umbrella,  as  a  necessary  part 
of  one's  outfit.  They  are  necessary  to  protect  one  from  the  rays 
of  an  almost  vertical  sun,  and  as  a  shelter  from  the  rain  or  heavy 
dews  that  fall  after  dark. 

In  the  short  walk  of  three  squares  from  the  consulate  to  the 
hotel,  even  at  the  breakfast  hour,  the  sun  was  so  hot  that  the  silk 


82  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

umbrella  I  carried,  as  I  hugged  the  shady  side  of  the  narrow 
street,  would  crackle  as  if  it  were  on  fire  when  I  exposed  myself 
by  crossing  the  street. 

A  queer  custom  which  first  attracts  the  attention  of  a  tourist 
from  a  cooler  climate  is  that  the  Paranese  of  the  better  class, 
business  men,  shopkeepers,  clerks  and  perhaps  a  majority  of  the 
gentlemen  wear  black  cloth  coats  and  trousers. 

As  a  rule,  the  Paranese  is  small  in  stature  and  slender  in 
form.  His  manner  of  dressing,  at  first  sight,  creates  the  impres- 
sion of  a  young  man  wearing  his  father's  clothes.  The  general 
top  heavy  appearance  is  heightened  by  the  old  fashioned  broad 
rimmed  derby  hat.  He  invariably  wears  a  small,  black,  regula- 
tion necktie. 

His  small  feet  are  neatly  encased  in  shoes  made  in  England 
or  France  expressly  for  the  Paranese  trade,  so  long  and  narrow 
pointed  that  they  resemble  miniature  canoes. 

The  foreign  gentlemen  who  come  to  Para  usually  bring  with 
them  a  proper  outfit  of  clothing  which  they  may  think  suited  for 
the  climate.  H  an  Englishman,  he  follows  the  East  India  cus- 
tom, and  will  probably  have  his  boxes  filled  with  light  colored 
linens  and  seersuckers,  in  addition  to  his  checked  trousers  and 
dress  coat. 

A  German  may  be  distinguished  by  his  light,  tight  fitting 
clothing. 

The  American  tourist  who  comes  ashore  astonishes  the  na- 
tives by  appearing  in  the  streets  in  what  may  be  termed  negligee, 
or  lawn  tennis  suit,  made  of  light  flannels  of  a  loose  fitting  cut, 
something  after  the  style  of  pajamas,  which  everybody  in  that 
climate  wears  in  bed  or  hammock. 

A  few  Brazileiros  of  more  cultivated  and  independent  tastes, 
as  well  as  some  foreigners,  dress  in  white  linen  every  day  of  the 
year. 

The  au  rigueur  black  coat  appears  to  have  been  one  of  the 
early  imitations  of  costumes  brought  by  Paranese  visitors  to  some 
colder  climate,  who  had  no  proper  appreciation  of  the  fitness  of 
things. 


THE   CLIMATE.  83 

I  donned  a  straw  hat  in  December.  I  always  buy  a  fifty 
cent  straw  hat  at  home  in  sliced  tomato  time.  In  the  evenings 
I  put  on  a  derby.  The  only  persons  in  Para  who  wear  high  silk 
hats  are  doctors  or  other  professional  men. 

The  padre  (or  priest)  goes  about  the  streets  wearing  a  three 
cornered  hat  with  a  tassel,  his  Mother  Hubbard  costume  being 
tied  about  the  waist  by  a  cord. 

As  United  States  consul,  I  endeavored  to  dress  as  became 
a  gentleman.  I  usually  wore  white  trousers  and  waistcoat  and 
fatigue  coat  in  the  daytime  on  the  street  or  at  the  consulate,  and 
in  the  evenings  I  donned  the  regulation  dark  cloth  coat  on  all 
formal  or  ceremonial  occasions. 

Another  peculiarity  that  will  astonish  the  American  visitor 
is  that  the  larger  proportion  of  negro  or  native  children  are  not 
dressed  at  all.  It  is  no  exaggeration  to  say  that  a  majority  of  the 
children  of  the  lower  classes,  under  eight  years,  have  never  worn 
clothing. 

I  have  seen  many  babies  of  from  one  to  two  years,  even  of 
the  better  classes,  being  nursed  in  a  perfectly  nude  state  by  their 
parents  in  public. 

It  is  a  great  country  for  babies.  There  seems  to  be  something 
in  the  air  to  bring  about  this  extraordinary  supply  of  pickaninies. 
They  appear  to  be  indigenous  to  the  soil.  It  is  perhaps  a  happy 
circumstance  that  the  poorer  parents  are  not  obliged  to  be  at  the 
expense  of  dressing  their  numerous  progeny  until  they  are  old 
enough  to  dress  themselves. 

The  gentlemanly  traveling  companion,  who  may  volunteer  to 
escort  a  party  of  ladies  from  the  ships  through  town,  will  find 
an  embarrassment  in  trying  to  avoid  the  brown  skinned  boys  of 
six  or  eight  years,  in  a  perfectly  nude  state,  who  follow  them 
about  the  streets  or  hang  on  to  the  street  cars,  asking  for  pennies. 

The  lower  classes  of  men,  however,  are  more  cultured.  They 
wear  trousers  and  sometimes  a  shirt.  As  a  rule  but  few  laborers 
add  to  their  burdens  by  wearing  anything  but  the  black  Stanley 
belt,  that  holds  up  their  overalls,  not  even  a  hat,  and  never  shoes. 


84  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

Soon  after  my  arrival  I  went  into  a  trunk  factory  to  have 
some  repairs  made,  and  was  waited  upon  by  a  Portuguese  sales- 
man, who  appeared  to  be  wholly  unconscious  of  the  fact  that  he 
was  half  naked. 

The  bakers  who  work  the  daily  bread  by  the  sweat  of  their 
brows,  never  wear  any  clothes,  because  it  is  manifestly  too  hot 
to  be  burdened  in  that  way  alongside  of  an  oven.  They  make 
excellent  French  and  Vienna  bread  in  Para. 

The  females  of  the  lower  classes  go  about  the  streets  without 
any  hat  or  covering  for  their  heads,  their  black,  greasy  hair  fairly 
shining  in  the  sun.  They  usually  do  the  marketing  or  buying  for 
the  houses  in  which  they  may  serve. 

Their  queer  shaped  baskets  are  carried  on  their  heads.  The 
habit  gives  them  an  erect,  graceful  carriage.  Some  few  of  these 
descendants  of  the  Indians  and  negroes  called  Tapansa  are  rather 
attractive  in  face  and  figure,  but  they  seldom  dress  tastefully, 
and  generally  resemble  our  colored  girls  of  the  Southern  States, 
in  appearance  and  in  their  ways  and  manners. 

Their  loud  figured  dresses  are  usually  made  brief  at  both 
ends  (the  waist  and  skirt),  no  doubt,  with  a  view  to  economy. 
Some  young  Englishman  informed  me  that  this  outer  dress  is  the 
only  garment  they  wear  on  the  street  for  ordinary  occasions ;  that 
females  in  that  country   do  not  wear  undergarments. 

The  line  of  caste  distinction  is  clearly  drawn  in  Amazonia. 
There  is  an  upper  and  a  nether  millstone. 

The  present  inhabitants  of  the  lower  Amazon  valley  in  Brazil 
are  mostly  of  Portuguese,  African  and  aboriginal  Indian  descent, 
both  of  pure  blood  and  with  a  widespread  and  indiscriminate 
mixture  of  the  three  races.  In  the  upper  Amazon  of  Peru  the 
Spanish  and  Indian  predominate,  with  a  limited  proportion  of 
Africans. 

There  is  none  of  the  prejudice  against  color  that  prevails  in 
parts  of  the  United  States.  The  only  aristocracy  that  exists  may 
perhaps  be  called  a  political  moneyed  aristocracy.  It  is  in  a 
sense  "blooded,"  there  being  an  inclination  to  imagine  that  blood 


THE   CLIMATE.  85 

can  be  traced  back  many  generations.  Some  of  the  "bluest"  point 
with  pride  to  their  "Pocahontas"  grandmothers,  whose  oil  por- 
traits I  have  seen  on  the  parlor  walls  of  some  of  the  most  estim- 
able famihes,  and  of  whom,  if  the  pictures  are  correct,  they  may 
well  be  proud. 

One  striking  characteristic,  not  only  of  the  portraits,  but 
also  of  the  descendants  of  the  higher  class,  is  the  frequent,  almost 
perfect  symmetry  and  regularity  of  the  features,  accompanied 
by  a  dignified  and  genial  composure. 

Soon  after  my  arrival  it  was  my  good  fortune  to  be  invited 
by  a  courteous  Brazilian  to  accompany  him  and  his  ladies  to  the 
opera,  where  I  saw  as  many  elegant  toilets  worn  by  as  refined 
ladies,  accompanied  by  courteous  gentlemen  in  evening  dress,  as  I 
have  been  accustomed  to  see  in  Washington  on  like  occasions. 

The  opera  house,  or,  as  it  is  called,  Theatro  da  Paz  or  Thea- 
ter of  Peace,  is  large  and  commodious.  It  was  built  by  the  gov- 
ernment, and  is  admirably  adapted  for  its  purpose.  It  is  situated 
in  the  center  of  one  of  the  large  squares.  The  building  is  modeled 
after  the  Grecian  style  of  architecture,  being  well  supplied  with 
large  pillared  porticos,  grand  entrance  and  stairways  and  mas- 
sive looking  roof.  It  is,  however,  quite  graceful  and  pleasing  to 
the  eyes.  When  I  first  saw  it,  I  supposed  it  to  be  one  of  the 
public  buildings,  which  it  is  in  fact,  having  cost  the  state  five 
hundred  thousand  dollars. 

The  interior  is  quite  plain,  not  having  much  of  the  gilded 
finish  that  we  see  in  our  second  rate  theaters.  There  are  four 
galleries,  divided  into  stalls  or  small  boxes,  each  box  seating  six 
persons.    These  are  usually  occupied  by  families  or  select  parties. 

In  the  section  corresponding  to  our  orchestra,  are  separate 
chairs  or  cadeira  for  the  bald  headed  Americans  and  other  foreign 
attendants. 

The  stage  seemed  small  in  proportion  to  the  immense  size 
of  the  interior.    There  is  a  grand  saloon  in  front. 

At  the  front  and  sides  of  the  auditorium  are  large  corridors, 
a  loggia  opening  to  the  square,  beneath  the  lofty  pillars  of  which 


86  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

the  gaily  dressed  assemblage  promenade  between  the  acts.  This 
is  much  hke  a  summer  garden  in  the  midst  of  tropical  foliage. 

There  is  also  a  hole  in  the  wall  below  stairs,  where  gentle- 
men see  each  other  alone,  and  stimulate  themselves  with  a  grain 
of  coffee. 

The  first  performance  I  witnessed  was  about  on  a  par  with 
that  of  our  traveling  troupes.  The  two  principal  singers  were 
Italians,  the  company  being  brought  from  Italy  for  this  theater 
by  a  Brazilian  contractor,  who  receives  a  subsidy  of  fifteen  thou- 
sand dollars  from  the  state,  for  the  season.  The  opera  was  com- 
posed by  a  native  Paranese,  and  the  plot  represented  a  story  of 
the  Haitian  insurrection,  written  by  Victor  Hugo,  the  scant  cos- 
tumes and  tropical  scenery  being  familiar  to  these  people. 

Certain  nights  of  each  week  are  especially  given  to  the  sub- 
scribers, or  the  elite  who  have  secured  their  family  boxes  for 
-he  season.  The  principal  performances  were  on  Sunday  nights 
which  I  thereafter  regularly  attended. 

I  have  always  had  a  weak  fancy  for  brunettes,  and  on  the 
occasion  of  my  first  visit  to  the  grand  opera  I  was  delighted  to 
find  that  every  lady  in  the  vast  audience  was  a  brunette. 

They  were  of  all  shades,  from  the  rich  olive  complexion  of 
the  Portuguese  in  the  boxes,  to  the  handsome,  dark  eyed  gentle- 
men in  the  orchestra. 

In  this  vast  sea  of  pretty  faces  and  gay  toilettes  my  eyes 
rested  on  one  strikingly  pleasant  young  face,  resembling  a  French 
lady,  with  a  senhorita's  mantilla,  from  under  which  beamed  a  most 
Expressive  pair  of  dark  brown  eyes.  She  was  elegantly  attired  in 
white,  a  full  corset  laced  in  the  back  encased  a  long  and  slender 
waist ;  upon  her  hands  white  kid  gloves,  the  many  buttons  of 
which  covered  a  well  formed  arm. 

Upon  inquiry,  I  ascertained  that  the  apparition  in  white  dress 
and  brown  hair  was  the  daughter  of  Baron  de  Marajo,  and  my 
informer  added,  "She  is  one  of  the  nicest  girls  in  Para,  too,  and 
speaks  English  very  well." 

As  I  had  not  heard  the  voice  of  an  English  or  American 
lady  since  I  left  the  United  States,  I  was  hungering  for  a  few 


THE   CLIMATE.  87 

pleasant  words  in  this  purgatory.  But  1  realized  sadly  that  it 
was,  of  course,  out  of  the  question  for  a  stranger,  in  a  land  where 
the  customs  are  so  exacting,  to  hope  to  talk  in  his  native  tongue 
with  a  pretty  daughter  of  a  real,  live  baron.  I  could  only  attend 
the  opera  every  night  thereafter  and  have  the  pleasure  of  admir- 
ing her  at  a  distance. 

There  was  nothing  in  the  manner  of  the  young  lady  that 
suggested  hauteur,  or  exclusiveness;  in  fact,  I  noticed  that  she 
was  very  pleasant  watli  those  whom  she  met,  and  she  was  cer- 
tainly popular,  as  her  acquaintances  were  numerous  and  gushing. 

They  have  a  custom  in  tropical  countries  that  prohibits  any 
lady  from  appearing  in  the  street  unless  accompanied  by  one  of 
the  family,  and  my  observation  is  that  they  obey  the  rule  strictly. 

I  have  never  seen  a  lady  of  the  better  class  alone  in  the  street, 
and  I  looked  sharply  for  them. 

One  day  I  happened  to  be  on  the  same  street  car  with  the 
baron  and  his  pretty  daughter.  She  had  a  pleasant  word  and 
smile  for  almost  every  one,  and  when  ready  to  leave,  the  car 
stopped  long  enough  for  the  popular  lady  to  give  her  hand  to 
those  that  remained  as  if  they  were  off  on  a  long  journey.  The 
Portuguese  driver  smiled  good  naturedly  at  the  delay.  The  cus- 
tom is  to  shake  hands  all  around  at  every  meeting  and  parting. 

The  provisional  government  of  the  Republic  of  Brazil  de- 
creed that  those  of  its  eminent  citizens  upon  whom  the  Emperor 
Dom  Pedro  Second  had  conferred  titles  should  continue  to  enjoy, 
in  an  honorary  way,  those  distinctions  under  the  new  republic ; 
the  titles,  however,  dying  with  the  bearer. 

There  are  several  barons  residing  in  Para.  Probably  the 
foremost  in  this  line  is  the  Baron  de  Marajo.  The  title,  pro- 
nounced "mah-rah-zhaw"  (after  the  island  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Amazon,  which  is  in  itself  larger  than  the  kingdom  of  Portugal), 
was  not  purchased  according  to  the  custom,  but  was  conferred 
many  years  ago  by  the  Emperor  for  distinguished  services.  It 
is  well  known  that  some  of  the  barons  bought  their  titles,  Dom 
Pedro  openly  defending  the  business  transaction  in  titles  by  the 


88  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

plea  that  the  money  so  received  was  exclusively  used  for  the 
sustenance  of  the  lunatic  asylums  of  Brazil. 

The  Baron  de  Marajo  may  be  said  to  be  the  foremost  of 
the  list  of  nobles  here.  He  is,  at  least  physically,  head  and  shoul- 
ders above  them  all,  as  he  is  as  tall  as  Abraham  Lincoln  (six 
feet  iour). 

The  baron  is  not  only  a  large  man  physically,  but  large  in 
heart,  with  correspondingly  liberal  and  advanced  ideas. 

Though  apparently  quite  dignified,  he  reminds  one  by  his 
striking  personal  appearance  of  Don  Quixote,  as  he  saunters 
along  the  street.  He  is  quite  exclusive  in  his  companionship 
though  very  companionable  among  his  special  friends. 

The  baron  is  now  a  Republican.  He  was  at  one  time  presi- 
dent of  the  province  and  mayor  of  the  city  of  Para.  His  parents 
were  Portuguese,  descended  from  the  early  governors.  As  a 
native  born  Brazilian,  none  is  more  patriotic  than  he  in  the 
declaration  of  his  political  confession  of  faith.  "America  for 
Americans,  Brazil  for  Brazilians  and  Para  for  Paranese."  He 
was  educated  in  Europe,  and  is  by  profession  a  civil  engineer, 
some  of  his  earlier  works  here  being  the  laying  of  the  foundation 
of  the  provincial  palace. 

That  which  will  remain  as  one  of  the  most  graceful  monu- 
ments to  his  taste  and  forethought,  however,  was  the  planting 
on  each  side  of  the  magnificent  San  Jose  Avenue,  over  thirty 
years  ago,  of  the  long  line  of  beautiful  royal  palms,  which  are 
now  the  admiration  of  all  visitors,  and  the  pride  of  the  Paranese. 

The  noble  baron  is  not  only  one  of  the  interesting  characters 
of  this  interesting  place,  but  he  is  also  the  father  of  a  most  inter- 
esting family,  a  majority  of  whom  are  daughters.  All  are  accom- 
plished, and  one  is  very  beautiful. 

This  family  were  educated  in  Lisbon,  and  as  the  baron  was 
one  of  the  commissioners  to  the  Paris  Exposition,  his  daughters 
have  all  had  the  advantage  of  European  travel,  and  are  therefore 
highly  accomplished,  and  may  be  classed  as  the  "F.  F.  B's." 


Ao  Sr  Maor  Kerbev  affence — Leticia. 


THE   CLIMATE.  89 

The  baron  and  his  pretty  daughter  later  visited  America, 
the  father  being  the  commissioner  from  Brazil  to  the  exposition. 

In  the  absence  of  a  suitable  photograph  of  Julieta  (the 
baron's  daughter),  I  beg  to  substitute  the  photographs  of  my 
pretty  young  Para  lady  friend  and  her  cousins  Lourdes  and 
Emilia  Oliveira. 

The  charming  little  senhorita  appears  in  these  pages  as  a  cor- 
respondent and  an  accomplished  artist  who  kindly  supplied  some 
of  the  illustrations. 

She  is  the  daughter  of  an  artist  of  the  well  known  family 
name  of  Oliveira. 


CHAPTER    IX. 


A    BRAZILIAN  S    DEFENCE    OF    HIS    CLIMATE. 


N  addition  to  the  arduous  duties  imposed 
]I^     upon   a  consul   attempting  to  attend  five 
rMtl    ij^iig    jj^     three   nights,   in    order   that   he 
might  see  and  sample  everything,   I  was 
also   trying  to   acquaint  my   government, 
through    voluminous    official    reports    of 
such  matters  as   I  observed  and    experi- 
enced socially,  which  I  thought  would  be 
of  public  interest  or  useful  in  the  promotion  of  reciprocity. 

I  endeavored  to  impress  upon  the  department  and  the  public, 
through  the  government  printing  office,  by  a  series  of  stories  about 
balls  and  senhoritas  concealed  in  the  form  of  daily  reports,  a  few 
observations  upon  consanguinity  or  affinity  in  its  relation  to  reci- 
procity. 

The  early  settlers  of  Brazil,  generally,  came  from  Southern 
Europe.  That  their  natural  sympathies  tend  strongly  in  that 
direction  is  a  feature  of  reciprocity  that  has  not  been  fairly  con- 
sidered. 

A  large  majority  of  the  Brazilians  of  the  present  day  are 
Portuguese  of  a  second  or  third  generation,  and  wherever  it  is 
possible  to  do  so  the  parents  have  sent  their  children  "home""  to 
Lisbon  to  be  educated. 

These  children,  so  educated,  are  now  active,  moving  Bra- 
zileiros  of  today,  reinforced  very  largely  by  the  continuous  immi- 
gration from  Portugal. 

Good  steamships  arrive  almost  weekly  from  Liverpool  and 
Havre  and  Mediterranean  ports,  all  of  which  make  their  last  stop 
at  Lisbon  en  route  not  only  to  the  Amazon,  but  to  all  other  points 
on  the  Brazilian  coast. 


A  BRAZILIAN'S  DEFENCE  OF  HIS  CLIMATE.  91 

Through  this  regular  communication  with  their  fatherland, 
social  and  business  intercourse  is  kept  up. 

It  may  require  considerable  diplomacy  in  the  way  of  reci- 
procity treaties  to  overcome  this  natural  consanguinity,  between 
the  parent  and  the  offspring,  or  between  Europe  and  Brazil. 

Lest  I  have  neglected  to  mention  it  heretofore,  I  will  say 
here  that  Para  continued  to  be  for  me  a  very  hot  hole.  But  I 
had  lots  of  fun  while  undergoing  the    initiatory  acclimatization. 

The  vertical  rays  of  the  sun  persistently  came  down  in  a 
provokingly  monotonous  style,  every  day,  after  about  seven  a.  m. 
Yet  it  is  a  strange  fact  that  sunstrokes  are  unknown  in  Ama- 
zonia— a  problem  I  will  leave  to  the  scientists  to  solve. 

I  really  do  not  know  the  average  of  the  thermometer  in 
Para.  I  was  satisfied  with  the  experience,  and  never  cared  to 
question  the  figures.  My  genial  Brazilian  friend,  Colonel  Theo- 
dosio  Chermont,  who  has  lived  in  New  York  during  some  sum- 
mers, taking  pleasant  exception  to  my  criticisms  on  the  climate 
of  Para,  wrote  as  follows : 

"Para  is  a  hot  place  in  the  day  time  on  account  of  its  loca- 
tion under  the  equator,  but  you  must  confess  that  the  nights  are 
fine  and  cool.  The  heat  never  prevents  "O  Consul  Americano" 
from  sleeping  the  sleep  of  the  just  and  dreaming  of  that  'bloom- 
ing exotic'  and  other  orchids  that  are  bred  under  the  rays  of  the 
tropical  sun,  shedding  their  fragrance  through  the  air.  thus  sat- 
urating your  very  soul !  Oh,  dear.  Furthermore,  Para  is  free 
from  the  everlasting  plague  so  frequent  in  large  cities  of  the 
United  States  under  the  name  of  insolation  or  sunstroke. 

"Why  don't  you  explain  this  in  your  correspondence?  If 
such  a  thing  as  a  sunstroke  should  occur  here  for  the  first  time, 
I  am  sure  they  would  call  it  'Praga-New  Yorkina'  (i.  e.,  Plague 
of  New  York). 

"New  York  is  closer  and  hotter  during  the  summer  than 
Para,  which  is  a  healthy  place,  considering  the  death  rate  and 
population.    Don't  run  down  Para,  there  is  a  good  dear." 


92  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL    IN    AMAZONIA. 

To  my  notion,  the  one  redeeming  feature  of  life  in  that 
part  of  Amazonia  with  which  I  became  familiar  was  the  unfail- 
ing courtesy  and  constant  friendship  of  clever,  gentlemanly  Bra- 
zileiros,  of  which  the  brothers  Chermont  were  types,  and  the 
great  number  of  pretty,  dark  eyed  senhoritas  who  grow  spon- 
taneously and  blossom  luxuriantly  in  that  valley.  It  is  also  true, 
however,  that  many  of  these  pretty  girls,  who  bloom  in  the  per- 
petual spring  time  in  that  land  of  flowers,  are  forced  to  bud  too 
early  by  the  high  pressure-living  in  that  latitude. 

While  it  is  a  most  prolific  climate,  strange  to  say,  there  are, 
strictly  speaking,  but  few  children  to  be  seen,  such  as  we  know 
— chattering,  lively,  active  boys  and  girls.  Babies  are  plenty 
enough  among  the  poorer  classes.  There  is  no  age  of  youth; 
no  boys  or  girls.  They  step  at  one  bound  from  babyhood  to 
young  men  and  women. 

Little  chaps  of  from  eight  to  twelve  years  are  dressed  in 
long  pants,  black  coat,  derby  hat,  cuffs  and  collars,  watch  chain, 
and  usually  a  cane  or  an  umbrella.  They  smoke  cigarettes,  drink 
wine  and  beer  and  talk  about  women,  just  as  their  fathers  do. 

The  only  difiFerence  between  a  boy  and  a  young  man  is  in  his 
size.  In  dress  and  in  manners  they  are  exact  counterparts  of 
those  old  enough  to  be  their  own  parents. 

Young  girls  are  also  unknown,  as  far  as  I  could  discover. 
They  become  young  ladies  at  ten  or  twelve  and  frequently  wives 
and  mothers  at  thirteen  to  fifteen,  soon  broken  and  quickly  fading 
and,  I  regret  to  say,  not  attractive  at  twenty  or  thirty,  and  the 
lower  classes  become  hideous  at  forty,  all  because  of  careless 
habits. 

There  are  exceptions  to  this,  as  to  all  other  rules.  A  number 
of  married  ladies  of  Para  are  considered  to  be  the  prettiest  of 
their  many  pretty  women. 


SFT 

gglt|! 

^wfl 

^^ 

ra^^^^^ 

/  ir\ 

^fe^ 

CHAPTER    X. 

MANNERS  AND  CUSTOMS. 

EST  the  reader,  interested  in  South  Amer- 
ican business  prospects,  may  think  it  time 
for  the  consul  to  tell  something  about  the 
commercial  features,  I  submit  the  follow- 
ing, printed  first  some  years  ago,  but 
which  is  applicable  to  present  conditions : 
Any  believer  in  Solomon's  saying 
that  there  is  nothing  new  under  the  sun 
should  pursue  his  investigations  in  the  Amazon  valley  under  an 
equatorial  sun. 

During  my  residence  and  visits,  I  discovered  more  things 
that  were  strange  and  new  to  me  than  dreamed  of  in  all  the 
philosophies,  romances  and  advertisements  that  have  recently 
been  unloaded  on  the  American  public  as  contributions  to  South 
American  literature,  and  this  is  saying  a  good  deal. 

It  sometimes  occurs  to  me  that  everything  in  Amazonia  is 
done  by  contraries.  To  get  into  a  cool  climate  you  go  south.  The 
rule  of  the  road  is  to  turn  to  the  left,  and  street  cars  or  bonds 
are  always  on  the  wrong  track,  and  the  conductor  gives  the  pas- 
senger a  ticket. 

When  gentlemen  friends  meet  after  an  absence,  or  are  about 
to  separate,  they  embrace  warmly,  each  giving  the  other  three 
pats  on  the  back. 

It  is  the  custom  for  both  sexes  to  shake  hands  every  time 
they  meet  and  separate,  even  if  it  occurs  twice  an  hour.  When 
ladies  meet,  they  kiss  each  other  on  one  cheek,  and  then  turn  the 
other ;  they  do  not  embrace  in  public. 

A  very  clever  Brazilian  friend  with  whom  I  have  talked 
about  their  customs,  assured  me  that  he  never  kissed    the  lady 


94  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL    IN    AMAZONIA. 

who  became  his  wife  until  after  his  marriage,  and  all  know  that 
we  reverse  that  sort  of  thing  in  the  more  civilized  America,  where 
most  of  the  kissing  is  done  before  marrying. 

The  ladies  wait  for  the  gentlemen  to  first  recognize  them, 
as  I  early  discovered  to  my  embarrassment.  Subsequently  I 
lifted  m}^  hat  to  almost  all  the  pretty  senhoras  whose  bright  eyes  I 
could  catch,  and  received  in  return  a  pleasant  smile  and  nod. 

The  senhoritas  were  not  in  sympathy  with  the  foreign  boycot. 
Although  they  did  not  go  out  much,  they  managed  to  know  what 
was  doing.  The  better  class  of  the  native  merchants  also  ap- 
preciated the  situation  and  early  volunteered  their  assistance. 
They  were  most  hospitable  and  polite,  particularly  Sefior  Jose 
Ayres  Watrin. 

The  new  consul  was  indebted  to  a  few  of  these  friends  for 
much  valuable  information,  in  the  line  of  which  the  foreigners 
had  prearranged  to  withhold.  In  a  sense  it  was  a  fortunate  cir- 
cumstance that  the  foreign  cabal  chose  to  ostracize  the  new  consul, 
as  it  had  the  effect  of  affording  better  facilities  through  reliable 
Brazilian  sources. 

It  is  a  tradition  in  our  consular  bureau  that  a  consular  com- 
mission from  the  State  Department  is  an  open  sesame  or  pass- 
port giving  the  bearer  access  to  all  sources  of  information. 

In  one  sense  this  is  right.  But  it  opens  the  door  for  an  in- 
flux of  all  sorts  of  useless  matters  of  no  particular  interest,  and 
sometimes  is  a  means  whereby  interested  persons  may  avail  of 
this  channel  to  get  printed,  at  government  expense,  matter  that 
even  a  country  newspaper  would  not  use. 

Fortunately  much  of  this  extraneous  plate  matter  never 
reaches  the  public.  It  is  stillborn  and  sepultured  in  government 
reports. 

My  earlier  and  later  observation  led  to  the  conviction  that 
a  new  consul's  arrival  at  a  port  serves  to  close  the  sources  of 
really  useful  or  valuable  information.  This  is  not  the  exceptional 
case ;  but  on  the  general  principle,  perhaps,  that  a  new  consul 
is  usually  energetic. 


MANNERS    AND    CUSTOMS.  95 

His  arrival  produces  an  effect  similar  to  that  of  a  stone 
thrown  into  still  waters ;  that  agitates  its  smooth  surface  and  has 
the  effect  of  scaring  the  fish  away,  and  the  oyster,  that  cannot 
get  away,  closes  his  mouth  tight. 

The  early  mornings  of  my  first  days  were  occupied  in  the 
preparation  of  consular  reports  to  the  department,  and  by  way 
of  relaxation — writing  up  for  a  press  syndicate — some  attempt  at 
description  of  the  life  of  the  consul  and  business    prospects. 

The  evenings  were  agreeably  occupied  in  social  investigation, 
for  the  benefit  of  our  countrymen  who  might  wish  to  emigrate 
there  on  business.  In  connection  with  this  first  reference  to 
rubber,  I  beg  to  invite  attention  to  the  fact  that  the  matter  im- 
mediately following  was  referred  to  the  department  years  ago, 
before  the  wonderfully  increasing  demand  for  rubber  for  bicycle 
and  automobile  tires. 

As  may  be  seen  from  the  consular  reports,  as  well  as  corre- 
spondence, it  developed  early  that  not  only  the  question  of  trade 
and  transportation,  but  every  other  business  in  that  consular  dis- 
trict depended  upon  the  one  crude  article — i.  e.,  India  rubber,  or 
borrachio. 

This  indigenous  product  of  the  rich  soil  and  boundless  forests 
of  that  region  is,  next  to  the  coin  or  bullion,  which  came  from 
early  California,  the  most  valuable  cargo  of  commerce  carried  in 
the  bottoms  of  ocean  ships. 

The  United  States  absorbs  two-thirds  of  this  export.  The 
British  and  American  steamships  which  sail  weekly  from  Para 
sometimes  contain  cargoes  valued  at  half  a  million  dollars. 

The  handling  of  these  rich  cargoes  of  crude  rubber  is  con- 
fined to  about  a  half  dozen  firms,  who  have  their  agents  in  Para. 
Perhaps  one  reason  for  the  avowed  purpose  to  withhold  infor- 
mation is  that  these  few  American  merchants  did  not  wish  to 
have  their  rich  bonanza  of  free  trade  in  rubber  ventilated  in 
official  reports,  nor  their  rich  find  advertised  in  press  correspond- 
ence to  invite  competition. 


96  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL    IN    AMAZONIA. 

It  also  developed  that  although  we  absorbed  two-thirds  of 
the  products  of  the  Amazon  valley,  the  balance  of  trade  was 
against  us  as  two  to  one. 

The  English  and  German  traders,  who  have  been  long  estab- 
lished, import  from  their  country  two-thirds  of  everything  re- 
quired by  their  laborers  connected  with  rubber  gathering. 

The  American  importer  of  rubber  pays  out  large  amounts 
of  gold  coin  daily,  always  through  English  banks.  There  is  no 
reciprocity  in  rubber,  though  a  prominent  rubber  importer,  also  a 
member  of  the  Para  American  Congress,  read  able  arguments 
in  favor  of  reciprocity  on  sugar  and  coffee. 

The  government  of  Brazil  exacts  an  export  duty  of  twenty- 
five  per  cent,  on  the  crude  article  that  is  not  cultivated,  the  only 
outlay  otherwise  being  for  gathering. 

It  is  God's  free  gift  to  all  mankind  growing  in  the  forests 
of  the  equator,  the  product  being  generally  collected  by  American 
enterprise  and  English  gold.  It  is  received  in  our  country  free 
of  duty. 

The  manufacturers  in  the  wealthy  shoe  districts  of  New 
England  are  buyers,  but  they  do  not  oflfer  for  sale  any  Yankee 
shoes  in  Brazil.  The  usual  price  for  fine  rubber  has  ranged  from 
sixty  cents  to  two  dollars  per  pound  in  New  York. 

The  coffee  and  sugar  from  the  Southern  provinces  of  Brazil, 
on  which  reciprocity  was  based,  are  by  comparison  quite  insig- 
nificant in  the  prices  per  pound  for  each  article,  though  all  are 
alike  indispensable  to  American  trade. 

A  proper  idea  may  be  gained  of  the  extent  and  value  of  this 
trade  to  the  Brazilian  government  by  the  statement  furnished 
me  by  a  Brazilian  officer,  that  over  five  hundred  thousand  dollars 
in  gold  is  collected  monthly  at  the  Para  Custom  House  alone. 
They  do  not  receive  their  own  paper  money  for  duties. 

I  was  early  instructed  by  Secretary  Blaine  to  give  this  ques- 
tion of  rubber  my  particular  attention.  Exhaustive  reports  were 
made,  which  the  government  printed  in  a  special  form,  a  year 
after  I  had  ceased  being  a    consul,  which  reports  may  be  had 


Courtesy   of  Director-General   John    Barrett,    of  Pan-American    Union. 

AMAZONAS  THEATER.  MAXAOS.  BRAZIL. 
This  splendid  structure  is  situated  i,ooo  miles  up  the  Amazon.  The 
entrance  and  supporting  pillars  are  finished  in  white  marble,  the 
interior  is  richly  decorated,  and  the  allegorical  paintings  that 
ornament  the  ceilings  of  the  fover  and  auditorium  are  the  work 
of  the  celebrated  Italian  artist,  De  Angelis.  The  cost  of  the  edi- 
fice, which  viewed  from  the  harbor  is  one  of  the  most  conspicu- 
ous  features  of  the   landscape,  was  $2,000,000  gold. 


MANNERS    AND    CUSTOMS.  97 

upon  application  to  the  Department  at  Washington.  These  con- 
tain full  information  as  to  collection,  manipulation,  cultivation,  etc. 

There  are  some  hides,  nuts,  cacao  and  tonka  exported  from 
Para,  also  balsams,  but  particularly  everything  hinges  on  this  one 
indigenous  product  of  India  rubber,  in  its  different  form  of  fine 
"sernamby"  and  the  "caucho,"  the  latter  being  from  the  upper 
waters  of  the  Amazon  in  Peru. 

Nothing  is  cultivated  in  this  extensive  valley,  that  nature 
has  so  bountifully  supplied  with  a  rich  soil,  and  the  necessary 
warmth  and  humidity,  except,  perhaps,  some  sugar  cane,  which 
is  consumed  in  the  manufacture  of  the  cachaea,  or  the  native 
rum  of  the  country,  the  home  demand  for  which  exceeds  the 
supply. 

A  little  tobacco  of  strong  quality  is  raised,  and  a  fractional 
part  of  the  "farinha"  or  mandioca  meal  of  the  country  and  of 
the  tropical  fruits. 

Some  cotton  and  coffee  are  produced  in  the  upper  Amazon 
districts  of  Peru. 

About  everything  necessary  to  sustain  civilized  life  is  brought 
from  Europe,  and  pays  a  heavy  import  duty. 

No  proper  effort  is  made  by  American  merchants  to  extend 
their  trade  in  that  direction  by  sending  out  their  own  commercial 
agents. 

The  English,  German  and  French  have  their  branch  houses 
established  at  all  important  points  under  the  management  of 
competent  young  men,  who  know  the  language  and  make  it  the 
business  of  their  lives  to  look  after  their  home  trade. 

An  American  consul  in  Central  and  South  America,  during 
the  reciprocity  period,  receives  innumerable  circular  letters  in 
each  mail  from  all  classes  of  his  countrymen,  requesting  infor- 
mation, or  the  official  influence  of  the  consul  in  advancing  each 
business  man's  separate  interests. 

Sometimes  they  enclose  samples  of  goods,  neglecting  to 
properly  prepay  postage  which  is  doubled  on  the  receiver.  None 
ever  encloses  a  stamp  for  reply,  while  a  few  only,  thank  the 
consul  in  advance  for  his  good  offices. 


98  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL    IN    AMAZONIA. 

At  first  I  attempted  to  answer  this  mass  of  correspondence, 
but  finding  it  becoming  too  great  a  tax  on  both  my  slender  in- 
come and  depleted  energy,  consequent  upon  a  few  months'  life 
in  the  tropics,  I  declined  to  act  as  commercial  traveler  and  ex- 
hibit   samples  through  town  in  the  hot  sun. 

I  prepared  a  circular  letter  in  reply,  in  general  terms  advis- 
ing that  the  best  way  to  introduce  American  goods  was  for  each 
merchant  to  send  out  a  handsome  American  commercial  traveler, 
well  supplied  with  cash  and  samples,  duly  authorized  to  talk 
business  in  the  language  of  the  country. 

I  felt  sure  this  courteous  American  gentleman,  one  who  could 
dance  and  talk  in  several  languages  preferred,  would  get  away 
with  the  English  and  German  who  were  monopolizing  the  busi- 
ness of  reciprocity.  One  such  agent  who  understood  his  line 
of  business  could  make  contracts  much  more  satisfactorily  than 
through  consular  correspondence. 

Yellow  fever,  beriberi,  or  leprosy  would  not,  in  my  opinion, 
have  any  effect  on  the  average  American  commercial  drummer. 

A  prominent  coal  dealer  of  my  State  wrote  that  he  desired 
to  extend  his  exports  to  Brazil  and,  as  usual,  asked  for  advice 
and  information.  The  reply,  to  which  I  now  refer  as  being  still 
pertinent  to  all  coal  dealers,  was  that  there  did  not  seem  to  be 
much  prospect  for  starting  a  boom  in  coal  in  that  consular  dis- 
trict, since  the  generous  rays  of  a  vertical  sun  supplied  about 
all  the  caloric  that  was  needed  for  both  animal  and  vegetable 
life  on  the  equator. 

There  are  no  chimneys  to  the  houses,  and  the  little  cooking 
necessary  is  performed  by  means  of  charcoal  or  wood. 

The  gas  company  that  is  supposed  to  illuminate  the  dark 
ways  of  that  tropical  city  is  an  English  corporation,  that  get  its 
coal  from  home ;  and,  I  understand,  sells  the  resultant  coke  for 
as  much  as  the  original  cost. 

The  gas  is  of  an  inferior  quality.  I  indicated  in  reports  to 
the  State  Department  that  there  seemed  to  be  a  fine  field  for  an 
.\merican  electric  lighting  plant,  which  has  since  been  established. 


MANNERS   AND   CUSTOMS.  99 

The  immense  steam  traffic  of  the  Amazon  river  and  its  trib- 
utaries, its  sixty  to  one  hundred  steamers  navigating  some  fifty 
thousand  miles  in  extent,  require  enormous  quantities  of  coal  for 
fuel,  amounting  perhaps  to  five  thousand  tons  per  month,  outside 
of  the  ocean  commerce  coming  there.  These  steamers  are  gen- 
erally owned  by  English  capitalists,  and  their  supplies  are  brought 
from  South  Wales,  in  sailing  vessels. 

It  is  said  that  the  large  number  of  Brazilian  ships  would  burn 
American  coal  if  it  could  be  purchased  at  the  same  rate  they 
pay  for  Goole  (or  Yorkshire).  I  suggested  bringing  coal  from 
the  Ohio  and  Mississippi,  in  barges  that  could  be  towed  across 
the  gulf  of  the  Amazon. 

I  repeat  here  that  Para  is  not  only  the  hottest,  the  un- 
healthiest,  but  the  most  expensive  port  in  the  civilized  world. 

In  this  last  regard  it  may  aptly  be  compared  to  California 
during  the  early  rush  to  the  gold  mines  in  the  50's  or  to  Penn- 
sylvania after  first  discovery  of  oil  fields  in  the  60's. 

This  is  the  probable  cause  and  effect  produced  by  the  mad 
rush  for  getting  rich  quick  in  the  collection  of  rubber  from  the 
Amazon  forests. 

The  rubber  gathering  being  more  profitable  (as  two  to  one) 
than  all  other  labor,  results  in  the  population  of  working  people 
going  into  the  forests,  and  entirely  neglecting  cultivation  of  the 
soil. 

Everything  consumed  is,  therefore,  brought  from  abroad, 
upon  which  heavy  import  duties  are  collected.* 

*  The  Brazilian  budget  for  191 1  includes  a  clause  of  special  interest 
to  the  United  States.  The  authorization  to  the  Executive  to  grant  a 
preferential  of  20  per  cent,  to  those  countries  giving  Brazil  special 
advantages  in  not  taxing  her  products,  such  as  coffee  and  rubber,  ship- 
ped to  such  countries  in  certain  quantities,  is  continued.  The  United 
States  is  the  only  country  which  enjoys  the  20  per  cent,  preferential 
on  a  list  provided  for  in  previous  decrees.  The  only  change  in  the 
present  budget  is  the  increase  in  the  preferential  on  flour.  This 
ought  to  make  it  possible  for  American  millers  to  sell  flour  in  compe- 
tition with  Argentine  millers  in  any  port  north  of  Rio  de  Janeiro. 


loo  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

The  retail  merchants  sell  at  greatly  exaggerated  prices  to 
all  consumers  alike.  It  is  the  same  old  law  of  prices  governed  by 
supply  and  demand. 

The  retail  business,  which  is  quite  extensive,  is  done  in  five 
or  six  figures,  as  represented  by  the  Brazilian  paper  and  nickel, 
bronze  and  copper  money.  One  of  the  coins  of  the  old  mon- 
archy, which  has  entirely  disappeared  from  Southern  Brazil,  is 
still  in  circulation  in  large  quantities  in  the  Amazon  valley.  It 
is  an  enormous  copper,  worth  about  half  a  penny,  so  heavy  that 
I  did  not  care  to  carry  them  in  my  pockets,  but  found  them  use- 
ful for  paper  weights  in  the  consulate.  There  is  no  temptation 
to  steal  them,  as  nobody  cares  to  burden  themselves  with  them. 

One  day  I  stepped  into  a  shop  and  succeeded,  by  a  deaf  and 
dumb  exhibition,  in  making  the  Jewish  looking  Portuguese  mer- 
chant understand  that  I  wanted  to  buy  some  shirts.  I  paid  at 
the  rate  of  four  thousand  five  hundred  reis  for  forty-nine  cent 
shirts,  or  two  and  one  half  times  the  price  in  New  York. 

As  it  takes  from  two  to  four  weeks  for  the  leprous  laundry- 
men  or  women  to  do  a  day's  washing,  and  a  week  for  drying, 
c|uite  a  supply  of  linen  is  necessary  in  this  perspiring  latitude. 
I  owned  fifty-two  shirts.  I  found  it  agreeable  to  change  twice 
a  day  regularly,  and  some  persons  put  on  fresh  linen  for  break- 
fast, dinner  and  evening  dress. 

The  delay  in  the  washing  is  commonly  reported  to  be  not 
entirely  due  to  the  laziness  of  the  laundress.  It  is  sometimes 
quite  a  convenient  thing  for  her  husband  and  other  members  of 
the  family,  who  want  to  cut  a  swell  at  a  festival,  to  extemporize 
one  of  the  United  States  consul's  shirts  for  the  evening  or  Sun- 
<lay,  as  the  case  may  be. 

In  proof  of  the  accuracy  of  the  story,  the  missionary  clerk 
told  me  that  at  a  cottage  prayer  meeting,  in  a  mud  shanty  in  the 
suburbs  of  the  city,  a  laundress  was  present  with  her  family.  One 
of  the  little  urchins  wore  nothing  except  a  large  white  bath  towel 
about  his  shoulders,  while  an  older  son,  about  eight  years  of  age, 
had  on  nothing  but  a  nicely  starched  white  shirt  which  trailed 
in  the  mud,  and  looked  for  all  the  world  like  those  the  consul  wore. 


MANNERS    AND    CUSTOMS.  loi 

My  first  laundry  bill  was  also  in  five  figures,  and  not  being 
as  yet  familiar  with  the  value  of  the  money,  I  was  disposed  to 
resent  it  as  an  imposition,  until  my  friends  laughingly  interfered, 
when  I  treated  them  to  Amazonia  mineral  water  for  which  I 
was  taxed  one  thousand  two  hundred  reis. 

A  bill  looking  very  much  like  a  greenback,  that  has  engraved 
in  each  of  its  four  corners,  and  on  the  margins  and  back,  the 
gratifying  figures  '"500,"  at  first  touch  gives  its  happy  possessor 
a  quick  flash  of  the  "bloated  bondholder"  sensation;  but  on  ex- 
perimenting, however,  with  its  purchasing  power,  it  "means  busi- 
ness" at  about  twenty-five  cents'  worth  even  when  quoted  at  par. 

It  bears  the  words  "Quinhentos  reis"  and  "Imperio  do  Bra- 
zil," with  the  likeness  of  the  late  Dom  Pedro,  as  still  does 
almost  all  the  paper  money  of  Brazil ;  though  silver  and  nickel 
coinage  of  the  republic  is  in  extensive  circulation. 

This  recalls  the  story  told  of  the  departing  consul  and  his 
tenderfoot  successor,  to  whom  he  handed  some  of  these  tempting 
looking  "500"  bills,  just  as  the  former  was  embarking.  "Take 
this,"  said  the  tender  hearted  fellow,  with  sympathetic  tears  in 
his  eyes,  "and  settle  with  any  of  my  creditors,  whom  I  have 
overlooked  and  that  may  call  to  see  me  after  I  am  gone;"  inter- 
rupting the  receiver's  suggestions  as  to  the  amounts  and  disposi- 
tion of  balance  remaining  in  his  hands,  the  generous  giver  de- 
parted, waving  his  hands  "goodby,"  as  the  boat  pulled  off,  say- 
ing, "Oh,  never  mind  sending  me  the  change.  Just  set  it  up  all 
around  for  the  boys." 

I  attempted  the  same  trick  by  sending  one  to  the  genial  quar- 
termaster of  my  G.  A.  R.  Post,  of  Washington,  with  a  request 
that  he  pay  my  dues,  and  set  it  up  for  the  boys  of  the  post.  I 
have  not  heard  how  much  it  cost  him. 

I  also  enclosed  a  number  of  these  bills  as  souvenirs  to 
friends,  with  requests  to  divide  between  my  tailors,  using  the 
surplus  toward  treating  the  boys  and  girls  of  my  acquaintance 
for  "Auld  Lang  Syne." 

As  I  had  no  one  to  guide  my  early  footsteps,  I  had  some 
funny  experience  in  rubbing  against  the  manners  and  customs  of 


102  AN   AMERICAN   CONSUL   IN   AMAZONIA. 

the  people,  that  helped  to  vary  and  relieve  the  daily  monotony  of 
a  boycotted  life  in  the  tropics. 

The  country  is  as  flat  as  the  broad  ocean,  the  only  scenery 
being  the  dense  green  foliage  of  the  forests,  that  grow  down  to 
the  very  edge  of  the  mighty  Amazon. 

The  leaves  do  not  begin  to  fall  here.  As  I  may  have  pre- 
viously observed,  every  day  is  alike.  There  is  no  joyous  budding 
spring  time,  no  invigorating  autumn,  but  all  are  melancholy  days. 

One  of  the  customs  that  I  found  difficult  at  first  in  adapting 
myself  to  was  waiting  for  breakfast  till  midday.  The  early 
morning  in  the  tropics  is  simply  glorious.  I  love  to  rise  with  the 
sun  and  enjoy  the  walk  while  it  is  cool  and  refreshing;  but  one 
cannot  get  anything  to  eat  before  eleven  a.  m.  except  "early 
coffee,"  which  consists  of  a  small  cup  of  black  coffee  and  a  piece 
of  bread. 

I,  however,  made  an  arrangement  by  which  I  paid  three 
hundred  reis  extra  each  for  a  glass  of  coffee  which  they  have  a 
way  of  mixing  with  a  couple  of  spoonfuls  of  sugar  with  the  yolks 
of  two  eggs,  into  which  the  heated  milk  is  slowly  poured,  the 
Portuguese  Pedro  all  the  while  stirring  vigorously.  On  the  top 
of  this  rich  mixture  the  purest  of  strong  black  coffee  is  poured, 
the  whole  making  a  glass  of  foaming  creamy  nectar,  fit  for  the 
gods. 

It  goes  without  saying  that  they  make  good  coffee  in  the 
land  where  it  grows — Brazil. 

I  do  not  know  why  they  insist  on  serving  coffee  made  this 
way  in  a  glass,  but  I  took  the  morning  medicine  with  a  relish 
without  question. 

A  good  breakfast  is  served  from  eleven  a.  m.  to  one  p.  m. 

I  lived  at  the  "Delmonico"  or  "Chamberlin"  of  Para,  which 
is  kept  by  a  Frenchman  and  patronized  by  the  English  and  Amer- 
ican residents.  During  the  boycot,  T  ate  alone  in  the  crowded 
dining  room,  but  I  managed  to  get  what  I  wanted  from  the  bills 
of  fare.  The  silly  ostracism  did  not  disturb  my  appetite.  Every- 
thing is  served  by  plates  or  courses,  and  everybody  drinks  claret 


MANNERS    AND   CUSTOMS.  103 

— genuine  Portuguese  claret — at  meals,  which  is  also  an  extra 
charge. 

I  found  no  fault  with  the  French-Portuguese  cooking,  but 
I  inwardly  rebelled  every  day  against  going  from  the  consulate 
in  the  broiling  sun  to  breakfast  at  eleven  a.  m.  Dining  by  lamp- 
light is  a  custom  one  may  learn  to  enjoy;  but  one  is  never  satis- 
fied in  this  world. 

As  a  boy  at  home  and  in  later  years  also,  when  I  have  had 
to  rise  and  dress  in  the  cold  of  a  winter  morning,  before  day- 
break, I  used  to  complain  about  the  hardships  of  having  to  "get 
up  in  the  night  to  eat  breakfast"  by  candlelight.  Here  one  has  a 
chance  to  sleep  till  noon  and  yet  he  does  not  appreciate  it. 

One  of  the  most  popular  drinking  places  in  Para  is  a  store 
in  which  canned  goods  are  sold,  fronting  the  public  square,  called 
the  Amazonia,  the  proprietor  of  which  was  a  courteous  Brazileiro. 

The  front  part  of  the  Amazonia  is  well  stocked  with  all  de- 
scriptions of  French,  German  and  English  goods  in  fancy  jars, 
or  ordinary  tin  cases.  I  could  not  find  a  single  article  bearing  an 
American  brand.  Cheese  and  onions  from  Portugal,  which  were 
always  displayed  in  their  original  packages,  served  to  act  as  de- 
odorizers for  the  strings  of  native  jerked  beef,  which  look  for 
all  the  world  like  dry  hides. 

In  the  rear  of  this  establishment  were  serveral  small  tables, 
seated  around  which  during  business  hours  were  foreign  business 
men,  engaged  in  the  arduous  task  of  throwing  dice  for  drinks. 

There  is  no  rye  or  Bourbon  whisky  to  be  had  in  Para.  The 
only  whisky  they  know  anything  about  is  an  inferior  grade  of 
Scotch. 

Their  tastes  have  not  been  cultivated  for  the  American  drink. 
The  principal  spirit  used  is  brandy,  or,  as  it  is  always  known, 
"Cognac,"  and  this  is  of  a  quality  scarcely  entitled  to  the  name 
except  for  its  biting  quality. 

Cachaca  or  native  rum  is  so  cheap  and  plentiful  that  only 
the  laboring  classes  use  it  as  a  beverage.  I  found  it  was  ver}' 
useful  in  the  bath. 


104  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

They  make  what  they  call  an  American  cocktail  at  the  Ama- 
zonia, a  concoction  compounded  of  materials  that  I  could  not 
analyze  and  am  unable  to  describe.  The  principal  ingredients  are 
supposed  to  be  cognac  and  bitters,  though  they  tell  me  that  those 
who  prepare  it  use  cachaca  instead  of  brandy  and  a  powerful 
French  liqueur  or  bitters  and  a  bit  of  ice  so  infinitesimal  that  it 
scarcely  cools  the  hot  dose  that  costs  thirty  cents  in  the  glass, 
and  more  after  it  has  been  taken. 

They  have  beer  in  bottles  from  Denmark  and  Germany,  enor- 
mous quantities  of  which  sell  at  nine  hundred  reis  (nearly  one 
milreisj,  equal  to  about  forty-five  cents,  for  a  six  cent  bottle  of 
vile  stuff. 

England  supplies  Bass'  ale  or  brown  stout.  France,  the 
brandy  or  liqueurs,  as  well  as  the  better  qualities  of  table  wines  in 
bottles. 

The  greater  amount  of  ordinary  claret  which  everybody  uses 
at  table  comes  from  Portugal  in  casks,  and  is  known  as  Collaris. 
They  now  have  ice  plants  and  breweries. 

The  first  two  words  of  Portuguese  that  I  learned  were  gelot 
— pronounced  jaylo — ice — and  carvaje  (sir  way  zhe) — beer.  A 
bit  of  ice  as  large  as  the  end  of  one's  thumb,  is  an  expensive 
luxury  in  a  glass  of  beer  which  nearly  doubles  its  cost  to  the 
consumer. 

An  American  cannot  swallow  the  drugged  beer  from  a  bottle 
that  has  been  warmed  for  perhaps  months  in  that  climate.  The 
natives,  however,  seem  to  prefer  it  without  any  preparatory 
cooling. 

Immense  quantities  of  all  sorts  of  the  stuff  is  consumed  daily 
at  Para,  not  a  bottle  of  which  comes  from  America. 

I  was  obliged  to  pass  the  Amazonia  several  times  a  day  in 
my  walks  to  and  from  the  consulate  and  my  hotel,  and  never 
looked  in  that  I  did  not  see  a  motley  crowd  of  brokers  and  traders 
gathered  there.  Even  if  I  chanced  to  pass  on  the  opposite  side 
of  the  street,  I  could  always  hear  the  English  tongue,  though  I 
could  not  see  the  speaker.  The  native  merchants  are  not  drinkers 
as  a  rule. 


The    three    sisters   of    "Quinta    Carmita."   with    little    brother    as 

cherub. 


MANNERS    AND    CUSTOMS.  105 

In  a  dispatch  to  my  government  1  reported  that  the  prin- 
cipal business  transacted  at  Para  (after  rubber)  was  gambhng 
and  drinking. 

The  natives,  citizens  of  the  higher  classes  as  well  as  all  of  the 
family,  are  bred  and  born  gamblers,  and  they  practice  it  all 
their  lives. 

Gambling  is  extensively  carried  on  in  every  part  of  the  city 
during  all  the  dark  hours  of  a  tropical  night. 

I  was  careful  to  explain  that  the  people  of  Para  would  not  be 
at  all  offended  at  the  publicity  given  to  this  statement.  It  is  not 
considered  a  disgrace,  but  rather  an  accomplishment. 

After  the  Amazonia  and  other  ship  stores  have  closed  their 
doors  for  the  day,  the  best  gentlemen  of  Para,  both  native  and 
foreign,  may  be  found  congregated  at  the  club  house,  located  in 
the  midst  of  the  residences  in  the  section  of  the  aristocratic  suburb 
of  Nazareth. 

I  probably  shocked  the  department  officials  at  Washington 
by  suggesting  in  the  way  of  reciprocity  that,  if  some  of  the  "gen- 
tlemanly" American  bartenders  could  be  induced  to  come  to  Para 
to  sell  clean,  cool,  mixed  American  drinks  to  the  hot  and  thirsty 
patrons,  they  would  surely  gather  in  all  the  spare  change  from 
both  foreigners  and  natives  who  were  floating  about  the  city,  and 
furthermore,  if  a  few  "partners"  would  accompany  these  gentry 
and  manage  the  poker  "clubs,"  they  would  be  sure  to  bankrupt 
Amazonia. 

In  this  sort  of  reciprocity  the  American  might  get  away  with 
the  English  as  well  as  the   German  resident. 


CHAPTER  XI. 


A    SUNDAY    BREAKFAST    AT    QUINTA    CARMITA. 


EVEN  miles  below  Para  is  a  beautiful 
Amazonia  resort,  built  on  a  point  of 
high  land  known  as  Point  Pinheiro, 
which  is  really  a  more  suitable  location 
for  the  city  than  the  low  ground  on 
which  it  is  now  situated. 

This  is  now  the  Coney  Island  or 
Long  Branch  of  Para,  where  the  wealth- 
ier people  own  cottages  to  which  they  repair  at  certain  seasons 
to  bathe  or  for  recreation. 

During  my  recent  revisit  it  became  a  pleasant  privilege  to 
form  one  of  a  happy  crowd  of  "boys,"  making  a  picnic  trip  to 
the  delightful  country  home  of  Senhor  Don  M.  Jose  Oliveira 
and  family,  of  "Quinta  Carmita,"  on  the  Marguary  river,  near 
Point  Pinheiro. 

The  delightful  excursion  was  planned  by  our  companion  du- 
voyage  to  give  me  the  pleasure  of  meeting  the  family  of  my  friend, 
Sr.  H.  Oswaldo  de  Miranda,  the  medical  student  at  Pennsylvania 
University. 

The  boat  or  steam  launch,  which  is  the  private  property  of 
Sr.  E.  Miller,  another  of  our  "Coyaz"  comrades,  was  elegantly 
fitted  and  tastefully  decorated  for  the  occasion.  Two  of  the 
other  congenial  companions  were  the  brothers  Guimares,  who  sup- 
plied, with  other  appropriate  things,  some  good  music. 

I  had  previously  enjoyed  the  hospitality  of  the  Guimares 
boys,  at  their  home  in  Para,  meeting  the  handsome  father  and 
happy  mother  and  two  charming  sisters,  who  entertained  the 
Consul  Pickerell  and  myself  by  some  remarkably  fine  music,  and 
later,  closing  a  pleasant  evening  with  a  dance. 


A    SUNDAY  BREAKFAST.  107 

The  consul  and  I  had  also  spent  an  afternoon  together  in  the 
commodious  and  comfortable  old  homestead  of  Sr.  Emilio  Mil- 
ler, whose  father  (a  German- American j  died  during  my  consular 
days,  and  whom  I  had  helped  to  bury. 

Mrs.  Miller  is  an  accomplished  New  England  lady,  and  the 
son  and  cousins  are  courteous  and  kindly. 

The  little  steam  launch,,  beside  the  passengers,  was  loaded 
with  good  will  and  delicacies,  and  steamed  down  the  lordly  Ama- 
zon like  a  canoe  at  sea,  until  we  turned  into  the  Marguary  river, 
a  narrow  stream  of  clear  water,  not  wider  than  a  canal,  but  deep 
enough  for  a  steamship,  winding  its  tortuous  way  through  a 
labyrinth  of  leafy  branches  of  trees,  reaching  over  the  water,  so 
numerous  as  to  create  a  tunnel  of  foliage.  But  I  must  leave  the 
attempt  at  description  to  the  photographic  views  of  the  Marguary 
branch  of  the  Amazon,  which  were  taken  by  Miller  and  friends 
at  the  time,  inviting  especial  attention  to  the  beautiful  "Quinta 
Carmita." 

The  progress  of  the  little  craft  up  the  crooked  river  was 
signaled  by  an  occasional  gunshot  at  birds  or  game  and  the  shouts 
and  hilarious  laughter  of  the  boys,  which,  as  we  came  near,  were 
reechoed  by  the  boys  and  girls  already  at  "Quinta  Carmita" 
awaiting  our  arrival. 

I  find  it  difficult  to  properly  tell  of  the  beauty  and  family 
home  life  at  the  charming  "Quinta  Carmita,"  in  this  crowded 
space,  but  promise  the  interested  reader  a  more  elaborate  story 
in  a  fully  illustrated  article  in  one  of  the  magazines  of  the  day. 

Heroes  or  great  men  are  welcomed  home  in  all  lands,  but 
I  doubt  if  even  on  a  burlesque  stage  has  there  been  a  happier  or 
more  beautiful  reception  than  that  accorded  the  returning  school 
or  college  boys  from  the  United  States,  with  their  "old  boy"  friend 
as  guest  of  honor. 

Dom  Oliveira,  a  fine  specimen  of  a  Brazilian  senhor,  a  pictur- 
esque figure  standing  in  white  duck  suit,  matching  his  white  gray 
hair,  stood  at  the  gateway  of  his  home  or  cara  with  two  charm- 
ing daughters  in  white,  to  whom  we  were  presented  in  a  dignified 


io8  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL    IN    AMAZONIA. 

but  courteous  way.  Seated  at  a  table  on  the  porch  were  several 
younger  boys  and  girls  who,  apparently,  were  taking  no  notice 
of  us  until  Sr.  Dom  spoke  one  word,  when  all  rose  at  once,  and, 
after  saluting  the  guest,  respectfully  stood  at  the  first  position 
of  a  soldier,  "attention."  until  I  spoke  a  few  words  of  compli- 
mentary acknowledgment. 

Later  I  met  the  mother  of  this  happy  family,  comprising  a 
group  of  as  pretty,  well  bred  and  educated  young  ladies  and 
handsome  boys  as  it  has  been  my  lot  to  see  in  any  land,  and  I 
have  seen  many  in  many  lands. 

The  names  of  the  daughters  at  "Quinta  Carmita"  are  given 
herewith  to  accompany  photographs. 

Sta.  Maria  da  Gloria  de  Oliveira. 
Sta.  Annahas  C  de  Oliveira. 
Sta.  Letitia  C  de  Oliveira. 
Sta.  Carmita  de  Oliveira. 
Sta.  Lourdes  de  Oliveira. 

A  delightful  day  was  enjoyed  at  "Quinta  Carmita,"  which 
was  later  repeated. 

A  few  miles  further  is  Mosquero,  another  desirable  resort. 
To  both  of  these  points  the  Amazon  company  runs  a  steamer 
twice  a  day,  leaving  at  10  a.  m.  and  4.30  p.  m.,  just  as  regularly 
and  as  promptly  as  trains  pull   out  from  the  depot  in  our  cities. 

The  efficient  English  manager  of  the  Amazon  company  suc- 
ceeded in  teaching  these  indifferent  Brazileiro  the  value  of  time 
and  punctuality,  by  starting  his  boats  precisely  at  the  time  adver- 
tised. This  innovation  at  first  created  quite  a  disturbance  among 
the  slow  patrons,  who  would  frequently  come  to  the  wharf  late 
and  be  astonished  to  find  that  the  boat  had  not  waited  for  their 
convenience. 

The  Amazon  company's  Para  trapeche,  as  they  call  their 
docks  or  piers,  was  of  a  size  and  character  that  surprised  visitors 
from  our  land.  The  improvement  of  Para  harbor  will  alter  con- 
ditions on  the  water  front. 


A   SUNDAY  BREAKFAST.  109 

The  extensive  piling  on  which  the  large  buildings  were 
erected  is  constructed  entirely  of  iron,  brought  from  England. 
The  sheds  were  larger  than  any  that  I  have  ever  seen  in  New 
York.  The  structures  for  handling  the  immense  cargoes  of  rub- 
ber brought  down  the  river,  as  well  as  of  the  goods  brought  from 
abroad,  covered  acres,  all  built  over  the  water. 

It  frequently  happened  that  the  piles  of  ham  shaped  crude 
rubber  on  the  floors  aggregated  a  million  dollars'  worth  in  value. 

In  one  part  of  the  trapeche  were  the  numerous  offices  of  the 
company,  in  which  were  employed  a  large  number  of  English 
clerks,  with  a  sprinkling  of  Portuguese. 

The  laboring  force  is  entirely  Portuguese  or  Paranese  na- 
tives. There  are  tramways,  as  they  call  the  tracks  throughout 
the  large  floor  space,  on  which  cars  were  run  to  and  from  the 
ships  at  the  outside  of  the  docks,  to  facilitate  loading  and  un- 
loading. 

On  one  side  of  the  trapeche  Amazon  steamers  discharge  and 
reload,  the  other  side  being  for  ocean  vessels.  From  the  front 
of  the  dock  the  daily  boats  arrive  and  depart,  while  the  part 
fronting  the  street  toward  the  town  was  arranged  for  the  con- 
venience of  innumerable  carts  that  were  always  being  backed  up 
to  the  platform. 

As  this  was  located  immediately  in  front  of  the  consulate, 
which  was  located  in  the  Amazonian  building,  I  had  ample  oppor- 
tunity to  watch  the  business  from  my  arm  chair  on  the  balcony. 
My  relations  with  the  English  official  in  the  building  were  of  a 
most  cordial  nature. 

At  the  proper  season  it  was  the  baron's  custom  to  take  one 
of  these  daily  steamers  to  his  country  place  near  Mosquero. 

He  was  a  wealthy  man,  being  the  possessor  of  a  large  fazenda 
or  cattle  ranch,  as  well  as  the  proud  father  of  several  pretty 
senhoras.  The  one  with  brown  eyes,  seeming  to  be  a  favorite, 
would  always  be  found  accompanying  her  father. 

Though  the  trapeche  from  which  they  must  embark  and  dis- 
embark each   evening  and  morning  was  comparatively  a    good 


no  AX    AMERICAN    CONSUL    IN    AMAZONIA. 

square  distant  from  the  consulate  balcony,  I  always  had  a  graceful 
bow  of  recognition. 

One  of  the  customs  of  Para  society  is  to  invite  special  friends 
to  Sunday  breakfast  with  their  families.  So  it  happened  that  I 
seldom  took  a  breakfast  at  my  hotel  on  Sunday,  except  on  occa- 
sions when  I  had  myself  invited  friends. 

The  Sunday  breakfasts  are  elaborate  affairs  and  usually  last 
from  twelve  noon  until  well  into  the  afternoon. 

They  generally  served  bouillon  in  a  small  cup,  good  French 
Sauterne  wine  and  some  sliced  cucumbers  or  Spanish  olives  to 
"open  your  appetite,"  as  they  say.  The  breakfast  usually  com- 
prises fowl,  fish,  mutton  and  beef,  with  lettuce  and  radishes, 
French  fried  potatoes,  and  the  usual  bottle  of  claret  and  Apol- 
linaris  and  Galot. 

A  great  amount  of  talk  is  indulged  in  at  these  breakfast 
feasts.  The  ladies  appear  at  the  table  and  assist  by  their  pres- 
ence in  the  enjoyment  of  the  occasion.  Fruit  is  served  as  a  des- 
sert after  the  breakfast,  then  coffee  with  liqueurs  or  cognac,  and 
finally  cigars — when  the  ladies  retire. 

If  the  races  are  on,  the  breakfast  party  adjourns  to  the  park, 
where  a  race  course,  a  grand  stand  and  all  necessary  conveniences 
are  found  which  would  do  credit  to  any  city  in  America  of  five 
hundred  thousand  inhabitants.  I  am  hardly  competent  to  describe 
a  Sunday  at  the  races. 

Though  Para  has  a  population  less  than  two  hundred  thou- 
sand, yet  it  is  a  fact  that  it  is  composed  very  largely  (from  the 
nature  of  the  business  in  which  they  are  engaged)  of  the  element 
of  human  nature  that  is  disposed  to  expend  a  great  deal  of  money 
in  the  pursuit  of  pleasure.  They  are  like  all  latins  fond  of  specu- 
lation, and  a  majority  are  gamblers  by  intuition  and  heredity, 
not  only  the  gentlemen,  but  the  ladies  of  their  families.  I  have 
been  on  the  grand  stand  occupied  by  crowds  of  pretty  women, 
as  well  as  homely  mothers  and  children,  all  of  whom  were  gam- 
bling on  their  favorite  horses. 


A   SUNDAY  BREAKFAST.  iii 

The  stock  is  usually  from  the  United  States,  though  some 
fine  animals  are  brought  up  from  the  Argentines  and  Plate  coun- 
tries. A  number  of  fine  horses  are  owned  in  Para,  and  others 
are  brought  up  the  coast  from  Rio  and  Pernambuco  in  the  racing 
season. 

A  brass  band  furnishes  enlivening  music.  The  races  are  con- 
ducted strictly  according  to  the  rules  adopted  by  our  clubs.  Their 
jockey  club,  Paranese,  is  an  institution  managed  by  gentlemen 
who  thoroughly  understand  the  business.  Very  probably  it  is  to 
a  mercenary  extent  an  imitation  of  European  and  American  insti- 
tutions, but  it  is  a  good  imitation. 

Naturally  everybody  who  is  anybody  attends  the  races  on 
Sunday  afternoons.  An  admission  fee  equal  to  about  one  dollar 
is  collected. 

I  had  some  conscientious  scruples  about  attending  races  on 
Sunday,  but  I  felt  that  it  was  part  of  my  official  duty  to  accept 
the  courteous  invitations  to  the  stand  reserved  for  the  club  mem- 
bers, and  especially  as  I  knew  the  baron's  daughter,  as  well  as 
the  several  other  pretty  daughters,  would  be  there,  I  yielded  to  the 
temptation. 

I  gambled  gloves  on  favorite  horses  in  a  reckless  manner 
with  the  senhoras  and  regularly  lost,  but  I  brought  away  with  me, 
and  retain  yet  as  a  souvenir,  a  pretty  cream  white  neck  scarf  I 
won. 

There  are  usually  five  or  six  races,  ending  in  a  hurdle  or 
perhaps  a  gentlemen's  race.  On  one  occasion  the  baron's  son, 
dressed  in  a  red  coat,  rode  in  the  gentlemen's  race,  and  was  beaten 
by  a  calvary  officer. 

Even  on  race  days  the  rain  would  come,  the  crowds,  gathered 
under  the  broad  roofs  of  the  immense  pavilions  or  seated  in  the 
grand  stand,  chatting  and  laughing  till  the  showers  passed  over. 
Everybody  was  happy  and  contented.  No  one  seemed  to  get  in 
a  bad  humor  at  the  rain  or  their  losses. 

The  street  cars  run  out  to  the  park,  depositing  their  passen- 
gers inside  of  the  enclosure  at  the  grand  stand. 


112  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

It  generally  fell  to  my  lot  to  go  home  with  some  party  for 
a  Sunday  dinner,  about  dark.  After  that,  the  rule  was  to  attend 
the  opera,  the  best  performances  being  given  always  on  Sunday 
nights,  which  begin  and  end  early,  admitting  of  a  private  dance 
in  the  houses  as  a  close  to  the  Sunday's  devotion  to  pleasure. 

I  am  not  at  all  exaggerating  the  actual  condition  of  Sunday 
society  as  I  found  it  in  Para. 

After  one  of  these  days  of  excessive  and  laborious  rest  dur- 
ing my  consulate,  I  went  to  my  lonely  bed  feeling  somewhat  tired 
and  meditating  on  the  early  lessons  and  training  I  had  received 
on  Sabbath  breaking.  I  dreamed  that  I  wakened  at  daybreak, 
and,  after  suffering  all  the  agonies  of  yellow  fever  as  a  punish- 
ment for  my  sins,  I  died.  Knocking  at  the  door  of  heaven,  St. 
Peter  opened  the  gate  and  asked  where  I  was  from.  When  I  re- 
plied Pah-Rah,  he  ruthlessly  shut  the  door  in  my  face,  saying, 
"No  one  from  Pah-Rah  ever  enters  here."  I  was  then  relegated 
to  the  lower  regions,  where  I  could  see  fires  of  lurid  flame  such 
as  come  from  iron  furnaces  or  gas  wells.  It  seemed  as  if  the 
place  were  conducted  after  the  manner  of  a  hotel.  An  impish 
looking  clerk,  with  diamonds  that  flashed  in  the  firelight,  un- 
concernedly allotted  rooms  to  the  guests,  ringing  bells  for  boys 
to  "Show  this  gentleman  to  so  and  so."  Recent  arrivals  were 
standing  about  patiently  awaiting  assignment. 

Though  the  place  presented  the  appearance  on  the  inside  of  a 
boiling,  raging  volcano,  I  felt  cold.  It  appeared  as  if  I  had  come 
in  my  coffin,  which,  like  a  cab  with  its  open  doors,  was  yet  stand- 
ing on  end  just  as  I  had  left  it.  In  order  to  avoid  an  imaginary 
draft,  I  stepped  back  inside  of  the  coffin  to  wait  my  turn,  using  it 
as  a  sort  of  wooden  overcoat  to  keep  me  warm. 

As  quick  as  the  impish  clerk  saw  this,  his  hard  face  relaxed 
with  a  Satanic  grin  as  he  remarked  so  all  could  hear  it,  "You  are 
from  Pah-Rah,  ar'n't  you?"  "Yes,"  I  replied,  my  teeth  chatter- 
ing with  cold,  "I  am  the  American  consul  there."  "Ah,  yes.  I 
thought  so.  We  are  glad  to  see  you,  Senhor  Consul.  W^e  have 
been  expecting  you  for  some  time.      A  number  of  your  friends 


The    Sisters    Emilia    and    Lourdes    Oliveira. 

The    younger    (Lourdes),    though    but    a    child,    is    an    artist    of 

al)ility,    having    won    the    prize    for    water    color    exhibit. 

Tlic    writer    is    indebted    to    this    little    Brazilian 

school    girl    for    photos    and    views. 


A    SUNDAY  BREAKFAST.  113 

who  came  on  ahead  engaged  a  room  for  you,  as  they  knew  you 
were  coming.    I'll  give  you  a  hot  berth."    I  expressed  my  thanks 
and  hoped  I  would  have  pleasant  quarters,  venturing  to  suggest 
that  I'd  like  to  be  assigned  near  the  senhoras.      The  imp,  with 
another  sardonic  grin,  observed,  "Oh,  no !    We  cannot  allow  any 
of  those  Para  scandals  to    disgrace  this  place.     The  girls  from 
Para  go  into  the  kitchen,  where  they  can  be  useful  and  keep 
warm.     We  put  all  the  men  from   Para  down  in  the  stoke  hole, 
where  they  exercise  as  firemen.    This  seems  to  agree  with  them." 
Just  then  I  awakened,  my  head  aching  so  terribly  that  I  had  to 
call  the  porter  for  apollinaris.    I  had  the  preliminary  yellow  fever. 
For  over  a  fortnight  I  was  confined  to  my  8x12  room  at  my  hotel, 
suffering  at  times  untold  agony.     I  carry  with  me  a  wound  from 
the    Gettysburg   campaign,    which    developed    into    an    abscess. 
Every  time  since  1863,  when  I  get  the  least  cold,  or  jar  myself, 
that  little  tender  spot  becomes  afifected.     Coming  from  the  races, 
I  jumped  from  a  rapidly  moving  "bond,"  as  they  call  their  street 
cars,  and,  being  in  a  weak  condition,  I  jarred  myself.     As  usual, 
I  thought  it  would  soon  pass  off,  but  a  sickness  of  any  sort  in  this 
climate  is  entirely    different  from  the  same  thing  at  home.     A 
mosquito  bite,  if  irritated,  becomes  a  festering  sore.    One's  blood 
becomes  as  thin  as  water,  and  this  fact,  with  the  heat,  and  gen- 
eral depression  caused  by  the  heavy  atmosphere,  serves  to  aggra- 
vate every  kind  of  illness,  especially  fevers. 

It  seems  as  if  the  millions  of  animated  nature  that  thrive  in 
this  climate  are  only  waiting  till  one's  blood  gets  a  little  cool,  that 
they  may  at  once  begin  to  prey  upon  it. 

A  poultice  of  bread  put  on  the  body  will  attract  thousands 
of  little  ants  to  the  spot,  and  one  can,  without  much  exercise  of 
imagination,  believe  that  the  vultures  which  you  see  every  time 
your  eyes  look  at  the  sky,  are  sailing  about,  watching  for  a  chance 
to  prey  upon  you. 

It  is  no  exaggeration  to  say  that  I  lay  awake  nights,  shud- 
dering at  the  running  noise  the  nasty  lizards  make  scrambling  up 
and  down  the  walls.    One  may  rise  in  the  morning  expecting  to 


114  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

find  in  his  mold  covered  shoes  a  scorpion  in  the  right  and  a  cen- 
tipede in  the  left.  Trunks,  etc.,  have  to  be  raised  from  the  floors, 
because  if  allowed  to  remain  in  one  position  a  day  you  are  sure  to 
find  in  the  dampness  that  gathers  centipedes  and  scorpions. 

Collars,  cuffs  and  all  starched  linens  are  eaten  to  rags  by 
other  insects.  This  is  not  only  the  case  indoors,  but  one  cannot 
go  into  the  grass  outside  for  five  minutes  without  becoming 
covered  with  a  little  red  tick  so  small  as  to  be  almost  invisible  to 
the  naked  eye,  well-known  all  over  this  country  as  moqueens. 

Besides  the  intense,  almost  overpowering  heat  and  glare  of 
bright  sunshine  during  the  monotonous  days,  a  sick  person  must 
suffer  from  a  lack  of  nourishing  diet.  Doubtless  this  is  due  in 
part  to  lack  of  nutritious  (phosphoric)  food.  We  have  no  fresh 
green  garden  stuff,  no  tart  or  juicy  fruits.  A  strawberry  is  un- 
known in  this  part  of  the  world.  There  is  an  abundance  of  tropi- 
cal fruit,  oranges  without  any  agreeable  perfume,  that  a  promi- 
nent Brazilian  advised  me  against  eating  at  any  time  because 
unhealthful;  plenty  of  bananas  and  occasionally  a  pineapple.  I 
have  never  seen  an  apple,  pear,  peach  or  plum  in  the  Amazonias. 

I  lay  in  my  hammock  during  these  dreary  days  thinking 
over  all  the  good  things  one  can  enjoy  in  God's  country;  dreamed 
of  babbling  brooks,  springs  of  clear,  cold  water  bursting  from 
rocky  hillsides ;  longing  for  the  sight  of  a  hill  or  mountain,  and 
wondering  why  anyone  should  ever  come  here  to  live.  The  out- 
look from  my  sick  chamber  was  not  at  all  comforting  to  an  invalid. 

Immediately  opposite  my  window  was  one  of  the  numerous 
drug  stores  that  seemed  to  do  the  principal  business  of  Para.  On 
the  sign  of  the  Pharmacia  Imperial,  which  confronted  me  like  a 
daily  warning,  are  the  words : 

ANTI-EPIDEMICO 

Preservativo  das  Epidemias 

FERRE  AMARELLIA,  CHOLERA, 

BEXIGAS,  INFLUENZA,  BERIBERI, 

DYSENTERIA,  TYPHOS,  ETC., 

ANTIDOTO  RACIONAL  DA  SYPHILLS. 


A  SUNDAY   BREAKFAST.  IIS 

I  came  through  the  war  safely,  also  the  Pittsburg  cholera 
and  railroad  riots  in  1877,  and  lived  seventeen  years  in  Washing- 
ton boarding  houses,  and  felt  impregnable  against  yellow  fever 
and  beriberi.  Yet  even  so  tough  a  case  gets  tired  of  having  a 
sign  like  this  thrust  before  you  each  time  he  goes  to  a  window. 

The  most  excellent  and  skilful  Dr.  Bricio,  who  attended  me, 
with  his  courteous  French  accent,  said,  "You  must  have  a  change. 
Para  is  no  place  for  an  Americano  like  you.  Take  a  sea  voyage, 
that  will  make  you  well  soon." 

But  I  begged  that  he  would  change  the  prescription,  and  order 
a  river  voyage.  Besides,  the  river  trip  would  admit  of  the  carry- 
ing out  of  my  original  plans.  With  a  shrug  of  the  shoulders  he 
consented,  but  directed  that  I  carry  some  medicines  along,  for 
the  prevention  of  intermittent  fevers  that  prevail  in  the  interior. 

Among  the  peculiar  types  to  be  met  in  the  neighborhood  of 
the  market  are  the  women  who  make  and  sell  the  native  drinks. 

The  most  popular  of  these  is  the  assai — pronounced  A,  sah,  e, 
a  sort  of  Amazonian  lemonade  made  from  the  berry  from  the  top 
of  a  certain  species  of  palm  tree. 

They  have  a  saying  in  Portuguese,  "quem  vem  para  parou 
queem  beben  assai  facou,"  which  Mrs.  Agassiz  translates  and 
certifies  to  its  truthfulness,  "Who  came  to  Para  was  glad  to  stay 
— who  drank  assai  ne'er  went  away." 

Though  I  was  not  able  to  go  to  the  consulate  for  weeks,  I 
transacted  all  the  business  from  my  sick  room  through  the  as- 
sistance of  my  clerk,  Mr.  J.  C.  Gavin,  a  well  educated  young 
Scotchman  whom  I  had  engaged,  and  whose  devotion  to  the  inter- 
ests and  comfort  of  his  employer  I  am  glad  to  acknowledge.  He 
came  out  as  a  missionary,  was  taken  down  with  fever  and  after- 
ward employed  by  me. 

I  subsequently  obtained  a  free  passage  for  him  to  the  United 
States,  which  is  now  his  home,  and  perhaps  he  will  see  this,  and 
I  am  sure  would  testify  to  the  correctness  of  my  story. 

There  are  among  the  Brazilians  at  Para  a  large  proportion 
of  the  offspring  of  the  Africans  and  Indians,  who  retain  the 
worst  traits  of  both. 


Ii6  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

It  is  this  class  of  arrogant  barbarians,  who  are  saturated  with 
conceit  and  steeped  in  incredible  self-admiration  because  of  their 
being  privileged  to  rub  against  second  rate  foreigners,  who  make 
themselves  offensive  because  respectable  foreigners  do  not  affiliate 
with  them. 

I  had  ample  opportunit}'  to  test  the  sincerity  of  friends  both 
among  foreigners  and  natives  of  the  better  class,  while  sick. 

I  was  visited  by  many  kindhearted  persons  who  were  anxious 
to  render  me  any  service  they  could.  Among  them  I  may  name 
my  good  German  friend  Bush,  a  large  man,  with  proportionately 
liberal  ideas  and  a  large  heart,  which  I  always  found  to  be  in  the 
right  place. 

Brazilians  whom  I  had  never  met  called  to  see  me.  Indeed, 
I  may  say  truthfully  that  I  was  seldom  alone. 

The  kindhearted  proprietor  of  the  hotel,  Mons.  George, 
would  himself  go  into  his  kitchen  to  personally  prepare  dainties 
to  tempt  the  appetite  which  had  failed  almost  entirely,  because 
of  a  seeming  surfeit  of  canned  goods  for  months.  I  became  so 
weak  that  I  could  scarcely  walk  over  the  floor,  and  so  emaciated 
that  everybody  who  saw  me  seemed  to  think  I  would  die. 

The  proprietor  was  an  almost  constant  attendant.  One  day, 
while  trying  to  rest  in  my  hammock,  I  overheard  George  talking 
in  an  earnest  manner  to  a  visitor.  His  broken  English  or  French 
accent  caused  me  to  laugh,  when  he  said  so  earnestly  to  the  in- 
quiring visitor : 

"Oh,  yez,  Monsieur  ze  Consul,  he's  blenty  sick — he's  blenty 
sick." 


CHAPTER   XII. 


BRAZILIAN   FAMILY  LIFE; 
ITS  ATTRACTIONS  AND  LIMITATIONS. 

F  the  reader  in  the  more  favored  temperate 
zone,  seated     in  an  easy    chair  before  a 
glowing  fire  and  looking  through  a  win- 
dow at  a  real  winter  scene,  will  imagine 
himself  living  in  a  glass    house,  or  con- 
servatory such  as  are  used  for  hothouses 
in  our  land,  he  will  come  nearer  a  realiza- 
tion of  actual  life  on  the  equator  than  it 
is  possible  for  me  to  describe. 
In  almost  every  respect  the  daily  existence  ( for  it  is  scarcely 
life)  at  Para  may  be  compared  to  that  under  a  glass  roof  in  the 
close,  warm,  humid  air  of  the  ordinary  hothouse. 

You  are  surrounded  on  all  sides,  even  to  crowding,  by  the 
profuse  and  wild  growth  of  the  tropical  vegetation  of  the  character 
that  is  exhibited  under  glass  in  our  country. 

Usually  these  plants  are  damp  from  the  heavy  morning 
dews  or  evening  rains.  The  fragrance  of  the  bloom  so  fills  the 
atmosphere  that  one  unaccustomed  to  it  is  almost  stifled  by  its 
sweet  yet  dull  heaviness. 

One  of  the  astonishing  things  to  the  visitor  from  our  land 
is  this  density  of  tropical  foliage  and  its  glorious  coloring.  It  is 
said  the  growth  is  so  rapid,  by  reason  of  the  warmth  and  humidity, 
as  well  as  the  richness  of  the  soil,  that  the  forests  can  only  be 
penetrated  by  the  use  of  axes ;  that  those  who  go  gunning  for  par- 
rots and  monkeys  always  carry  with  the  gun  a  machete  with 
which  to  clear  a  path. 

I  am  told  that  one  who  starts  early  in  the  day,  and  labors  to 
cut  a    swath  as  he  advances,  finds  it  necessary  to  also  cut  his 


n8  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL    IN    AMAZONIA. 

way  out,  as  the  path  cleared  in  the  morning  has  grown  up  so  close- 
ly by  evening  the  trace  of  the  matchete  can  scarcely  be  discovered. 

It  is  not  only  stifling,  but  one  can  never  get  out  of  the 
glare  of  bright  light  from  the  vertical  sunbeams.  If  you  find 
a  shady  spot,  it  is  liable  to  be  damp.  This  discomfort  is  heightened 
by  the  constant  fear  of  seeing  snakes  or  other  creeping  things, 
which  one  always  expects  to  find  lurking  where  there  is  so  much 
that  is  beautiful  and  fascinating. 

In  other  respects  life  at  Para  may  be  compared  to  that  under 
glass.  No  foreigners  go  to  Para  to  live  permanently;  all  whose 
business  or  interest  takes  them  thither  expect  to  retire  some  day 
to  a  home  where  they  may  enjoy  the  accumulations  made  from 
the  rubber  and  other  indigenous  products  during  a  forced  resi- 
dence. 

The  business  of  the  region  is  of  a  forced  nature — that  is,  it  is 
not,  strictly  speaking,  legitimate — it  all  depends  upon  the  spon- 
taneous production  of  the  one  article  of  rubber  (borracio),  which 
is  in  the  hands  of  a  few  persons  (like  that  of  gold  or  oil  in  our 
land),  everything  else  depending  upon  this  one  article.  Even 
the  government  itself  exists  from  the  export  duties,  as  well  as 
imports,  on  articles  required  to  sustain  the  rubber  trade. 

In  a  certain  sense,  the  social  life  at  Para  is  of  the  same 
spontaneous  character.  The  most  beautiful  and  accomplished 
of  the  ladies  may  be  compared  to  the  rich  and  rare  flowers  that 
are  grown  in  our  hothouses.  These  sweet  buds  and  blossoms 
of  the  tropics  enliven  and  brighten  the  dullness  of  a  monotonous 
life  for  a  brief  period.  They  come  upon  the  scene  in  gay  and 
richly  attired  groups ;  like  lovely  bouquets  that  are  prized  while 
they  please  the  senses,  but  alas,  like  the  flowers  they  soon  wither 
and  are  cast  aside  to  make  way  for  fresher  growths.  As  previously 
quoted, 

"The  flowers  that  bloom  in  the  spring" 

have  nothing  to  do  with  Amazonia,  there  it  is  eternal  spring  and 
summer,  and  no  fall  or  winter.  The  rarest  flowers  are  constantly 
blooming.    It  is  the  land  of  orchids. 


BRAZILIAN    FAMILY    LIFE.  119 

I  have  endeavored  to  convey  the  impression  that,  relatively 
speaking,  the  Brazilians  are  as  far  advanced  in  their  civilization 
as  we  are  in  ours. 

There  is  considerable  difference  in  degree  or  in  the  way  in 
which  civilization  is  viewed  between  one  side  of  the  earth  and 
the  opposite  extreme. 

I  do  not  record  it  as  a  reflection  on  these  people,  but  rather 
as  indicating  a  practice  to  their  credit,  of  doing  the  best  they  can 
under  unfortunate  circumstances.  It  is  well  known  that  illegiti- 
macy prevails  in  this  region  to  a  degree  that  with  us  would  be 
alarming.  The  difference  is  there  is  no  attempt  in  Brazil  to  con- 
ceal this  unlawful  condition  of  social  affairs.  Neither  is  it 
confined  to  the  lower  classes,  but  exists  to  some  extent  in  the 
best  social  circles. 

Perhaps  the  fact  that  it  becomes  more  conspicuous  by  rea- 
son of  its  elevation  creates  the  impression  that  the  practice 
is  more  general  in  the  higher  than  in  the  lower  classes.  There 
is  no  hypocrisy  on  their  part. 

The  saying  that  it  is  a  wise  child  that  knows  his  own 
father  is,  like  many  other  practices,  reversed  in  that  country,  to 
''It  is  a  wise  child  that  knows  its  mother."  With  us  the  burden 
of  rearing  illegitimate  children  rests  upon  the  wronged  mother, 
who,  in  nearly  all  instances,  becomes  with  her  child  an  outcast 
whom  our  society  spurns  and  crowds  down. 

In  Amazonia  the  father  assumes  all  the  responsibility  and 
legally  adopts  his  illegitimate  children,  who,  in  a  majority  of 
cases,  become  a  part  of  his  own  family,  taking  an  equal  place  in 
social  privileges  with  those  children  within  the  bounds  of  the 
church  regulations.  The  mother  of  the  second  family  is  usually 
a  dependent  widow  or  wife,  who  has  perhaps  been  deserted. 

If  the  father  is  wealthy,  his  legitimate  and  illegitimate  chil- 
dren share  alike  as  his  heirs,  provided  he  has  adopted  them. 

The  remarkable  feature  to  an  American  is  that  there  is  no 
disposition  in  the  higher  social  circles  to  discriminate  against  the 
number  of  these  illegitimate    aristocrats,  who,  in  the  matter  of 


120  AN   AMERICAN   CONSUL   IN   AMAZONIA. 

education,  refinement  and  address,  are  often  the  superior  of  some 
of  those  born  in  wedlock  in  the  same  famiHes. 

Those  who  with  us  would  be  socially  ostracized  are,  in  many 
prominent  cases,  the  acknowledged  leaders  of   society. 

Whether  or  not  it  is  better  and  more  civilized  to  brand  as 
outcasts  those  who  are  brought  into  the  world  illegitimately,  or 
to  take  care  of,  educate  and  protect  them  as  these  Brazilians  do, 
is  a  question  I  leave  for  the  reader  to  discuss.  I  have  simply 
stated  incontrovertible  facts.  It  is  not  to  be  assumed  that 
this  appHes  to  all  of  the  higher  life  of  Para.  In  a 
majority  of  cases  the  family  life  is  as  correct  and  pure  as  it  is 
with  us,  or  those  in  the  most  favored  lands. 

It  is  a  truth,  which  I  gained  from  close  observation  and  ex- 
perience among  these  people,  that  the  daughters  are  never  in  all 
their  lives,  for  an  hour  even,  out  of  sight  of  or  beyond  the  im- 
mediate care  of  the  parents  or  members  of  their  own  families. 

Like  a  great  many  other  Americans  that  have  been  accustomed 
to  the  society  of  ladies  who  had  almost  unlimited  liberty,  I  could 
scarcely  believe  it  possible  that  parents  could  entirely  deprive 
their  daughters  of  freedom,  but  nevertheless  I  found  it  to  be 
true. 

It  was  my  privilege  to  have  been  received  cordially  at  the 
homes  of  Brazilians  where  there  were  a  number  of  pretty  and 
accomplished  daughters,  and  I  visited  these  families  every  week 
during  my  residence  in  Brazil,  attending  with  various  ladies  of  dif- 
ferent families  numerous  balls,  theaters,  dances,  breakfasts  and 
other  social  entertainments,  but  never  once  was  I  able  to  be  long 
alone  with  any  of  them. 

When  you  invite  a  lady  to  the  theater  all  the  family  accept, 
and  a  box  is  a  necessity,  and  so  it  is  with  concerts,  balls,  etc. 

On  Sundays  it  was  my  general  custom  to  dine  in  Nazareth, 
at  a  Brazilian  friend's  house.  One  evening  (after  I  had  become 
pretty  well  acquainted),  when  the  company  had  retired  to  the  par- 
lor after  dessert,  I  managed  to  lead  to  a  window  the  pretty  little 
senhorita  with  a  musical  name,  which  means  soul,  and  the  win- 


BRAZILIAN    FAMILY   LIFE.  121 

dows  of  her  soul  were  surely  wicked,  black  eyes.  We  acted 
Romeo  and  Juliet  while  a  southern  moon  was  looking  down  be- 
nignly upon  the  dark  hair  and  laughing  eyes  of  the  senhorita,  as 
also  on  the  light  bangs  and  gray  mustache  of  the  American,  both 
leaning  outside  the  window,  so  as  to  be  able  to  talk  out  of  range 
of  those  in  the  room.  A  considerate  lady  friend  inside  banged 
the  piano.  We  became  quite  absorbed  in  our  conversation,  and 
as  the  confusion  of  voices  and  the  piano  in  the  room  somewhat 
disturbed  my  flow  of  limpid  Portuguese,  I  politely  suggested  to 
Juliet  that  we  should  promenade  on  the  sidewalk  outside. 

"Oh,"  she  said,  glancing  into  the  room,  "My  brother  is  not 
here !" 

I  replied,  rather  abruptly  perhaps,  "I  am  glad  to  know  it. 
I'm  not  anxious  to  see  your  brother  just  now.  I  want  to  take  the 
sister  out  for  a  stroll."  She  laughed  heartily,  as  she  observed: 

"My  papa  and  my  sisters  cannot  go  with  us  just  at  present," 

But  I  insisted :  "I  don't  want  them  to  go  with  us."  Then 
with  a  wicked  laugh  in  her  pretty  eyes  as  she  looked  to  me,  she 
said  positively: 

"I  will  not  go  with  you." 

I  explained  by  saying  that  an  American  girl,  on  such  an  occa- 
sion, would  not  hesitate  to  accept  an  invitation  to  take  a  walk 
with  a  gentleman.  She  would  not  even  think  it  necessary  to  ask 
her  parents'  consent.  Perhaps  she  might  deign  to  tell  them  she 
was  going  to  a  theater  with  a  gentleman ! 

"Alone !"  said  my  friend  in  a  surprised  tone  I  cannot  des- 
cribe, but  which  I  tried  to  imitate  when  I  answered  her  mockingly, 
"Yes,  alone !" 

When  I  further  essayed  to  make  it  more  seductive  by  telling 
of  ice  cream  and  soda  water  and  candies  the  girls  in  America  get 
on  these  walks  asking  her  if  she  wouldn't  like  to  go  to  America, 
she  quickly  replied: 

"No,  indeed,  senhor.  I  would  not  wish  to  live  in  a  land 
where  ladies  are  like  men." 


122  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

I  did  not  succeed  in  creating  a  favorable  impression  of 
American  institutions,  though  my  inamorita  laughingly  consoled 
my  disappointment  by  admitting  that  she  would  like  to  go  to 
America  as  one  of  the  party  I  proposed  to  escort,  the  condition 
being  that  they  should  all  be  returned  to  Para. 

The  senhoritas  themselves  strenuously  oppose  anything  that 
looks  like  an  attack  on  their  customs,  and  would  make  the  great- 
est objection  to  doing  away  with  this  one  barrier  that  serves  to 
make  them  exclusive. 

It  is  not  only  a  home  scrutiny  that  would  have  to  be  over- 
come, but  the  eyes  of  all  the  town  would,  like  hawks,  pounce 
upon  any  lady  seen  with  a  gentleman  unaccompanied  by  another 
person.  It  would  become  a  public  scandal  resulting  forever 
afterwards  in  ostracizing  the  innocent  victim  in  a  social  sense. 

The  Brazilian  senhorita  recognizes  the  fact  that  she  cannot 
become  the  wife  of  any  respectable  person,  if  she  has  not,  during 
her  life,  lived  strictly  to  the  rule  and  custom  laid  down  by  her 
ancestors. 

This  does  not  mean  that  gentlemen  and  ladies  do  not  fre- 
quently meet  at  their  homes  for  social  enjoyment.  In  truth, 
scarcely  an  evening  passes  in  which  there  are  not  social  meetings 
in  the  houses  of  the  different  sets. 

It  was  my  privilege  to  attend,  generally  as  an  invited  guest, 
these  social  assemblies,  and  I  may  say  that  I  have  seldom  wit- 
nessed more  jolly,  happy  gatherings  than  those  of  the  Brazileiros 
in  their  own  homes. 

They  are  a  musical  people  and  in  this  regard  are  also  quite 
cultivated,  nearly  all  their  music  being  of  the  Italian  school.  Each 
house  has  a  piano,  in  addition  to  a  guitar  and  mandolin.  In  some 
of  the  homes  I  visited  there  were  two  pianos,  one  in  the  large 
dining  room  being  used  for  dances. 

Everything  in  the  way  of  a  social  event  ends  with  a  dance. 
Perhaps  because  the  dancing  is  so  universal  there  are  no  efforts 
in  the  way  of  "literaries,"  or  select  readings. 


BRAZILIAN    FAMILY    LIFE.  123 

I  must  not  be  understood  as  intimating  that  the  Brazilian 
senhorita  cannot  talk.  I  have  never  listened  to  as  much  talk  any- 
where as  I  heard  in  Brazil. 

The  men  are  incessant  talkers,  and  there  is  scarcely  a 
gathering  about  a  social  table  wherein  some  one  doesn't  rise  in 
his  place  and  propose  toasts  to  somebody,  which  of  course  brings 
replies,  and  they  all  keep  going  until  they  exhaust  the  subjects. 

The  ladies  never  speak  thus  in  public,  but  they  make  up 
for  it  in  private.  They  pleasantly  sit  through  the  ordeal,  smiling 
at  the  jokes  and  at  the  gentlemen. 

As  I  could  not  understand  much  of  the  lingo,  it  was  a  great 
bore,  but  I  usually  got  through  with  it  by  looking  into  the  eyes 
of  the  pretty  girls  and  watching  their  telegraphic  signals. 

The  Portuguese  (pronounced  Port-u-gees — not  Porch -u- 
guesej  language  is  not  very  difficult  to  learn;  especially  if  one 
is  placed  as  I  was,  where  it  became  a  necessity. 

I  know  nothing  of  the  grammar  of  the  language,  but  could 
generally  understand  others  fairly  well,  and  found  they  could  also 
master  my  English. 

The  best  and  most  satisfactory  way  of  acquiring  the  lan- 
guage is  by  the  induction  or  absorption  method,  through  what  is 
generally  known  as  a  "sleeping  dictionary." 

Americans  should  take  a  Brazileiro  as  a  room  companion, 
one  who  cannot  speak  any  English.  In  this  way,  one  soon  gets 
accustomed  to  their  quiet  ways  of  doing  things  without  the  neces- 
sity of  much  talk. 

The  houses  of  the  better  classes,  which  are  located  in  the 
suburb  Nazareth,  (pronounced  Naz-a-ray)  are  as  a  rule  all  of  the 
one-story  style  of  Portuguese  architecture. 

In  most  instances  they  are  located  in  the  midst  of  gardens  in 
which  grow  innumerable  tropical  plants. 

Many  varieties  of  shrubbery  are  cultivated  for  the  gardens, 
and  here  I  may  state  that  I  cannot  begin  to  describe  the  flora 
of  the  equator.     It  ought  to  be  sufficient  to  say  that  everything 


124  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

grows  spontaneously,  such  as  we  raise  under  glass,  and  1  leave 
the  rest  to  the  imagination  and  the  accompanying  illustrations, 

Roses  and  kindred  flowers  of  that  description  do  not  grow 
as  with  us.  Amidst  all  their  wonderfully  bright  foliage,  one  will 
seldom  see  a  rose.  This  queen  of  flowers  does  not  flourish  in  that 
latitude,  being  only  produced  through  careful  cultivation. 

Neither  does  one  see  beautiful  lawns  about  the  houses. 
Grass,  as  we  know  it  in  America,  is  the  one  thing  in  the  way  of 
a  plant  that  is  scarce  and  doesn't  grow  spontaneously  on  the 
equator. 

There  is  no  sod  or  turf.  The  tall  grass  that  spreads  itself 
over  the  few  bare  spots  which  aro  not  shaded  by  trees  is  of  a 
coarse  texture,  that  grows  in  tufts  quite  like  the  prairie  varieties 
that  are  found  throughout  our  Western  and  Southern  States. 

"All  flesh  is  grass,"  the  Bible  teaches,  but  on  the  equator 
it  might  be  reversed  to  read,  all  grass  is  flesh. 

It  is  no  exaggeration  to  say  that  every  blade  of  this  grass 
contains  hundreds  of  little  pestiferous  insects  known  and  universal- 
ly abhorred  as  moqueens. 

They  are  an  almost  invisible  red  tick  which  swarms  on 
the  under  side  of  every  blade.  However  careful  one  may  be,  if 
you  put  a  foot  in  the  grass  some  of  these  insects  certainly  adhere 
to  your  body.  A  very  few  of  them  go  a  long  way  in  adding  to 
the  discomforts  of  life  on  the  equator. 

From  the  stockings  or  shoes,  or  clothing,  they  find  a  way 
to  the  flesh.  Perhaps  it  may  be  a  day  or  two  after,  but  they  get 
there  just  as  surely  as  that  the  sun  will  shine  on  the  morrow. 

Like  ticks,  they  insert  their  bodies  into  the  flesh,  and  on  the 
second  or  third  day  the  victim  finds  himself  scratching  at  what 
appear  like  mosquito  bites.  These  he  will  rub  until  the  irritation 
increases,  so  that  each  little  spot  becomes  sore,  and  his  limbs  may 
be  covered  with  these  most  unpleasant  sores  that  may  become 
really  dangerous  in  that  climate. 

The  only  remedy  is  a  bath  of  spirits  or  the  cachaca,  which 
may  also  be  used  as  a  preventive  after  a  walk  and  in  this  case  it  is 


BRAZILIAN    FAMILY    LIFE.  125 

certainly  worth  a  gallon  of  cure.     Therefore  in     Para  signs  to 
"Keep  off  the  grass"  are  not  needed. 

One  of  the  most  beautiful  of  the  many  varieties  of  leaves, 
which  grow  wild,  are  those  known  as  the  velvet  or  plush,  which 
are  so  like  artificial  leaves  in  soft,  rich  texture  that  many  ladies 
to  whom  I  mailed  specimens  easily  made  their  friends  believe, 
they  were  French  imitations. 

Another  is  the  gold  leaf;  a  small  tuft  of  rare  old  gold 
colored  leaves  that  grow  spontaneously  in  the  woods,  as  also  the 
silver  leaf,  so  called  from  a  resemblance  to  silver,  quite  as  strik- 
ing as  that  of  the  gold. 

A  couple  of  lady  friends,  to  whom  I  often  applied  for  speci- 
mens of  leaves  and  flowers  to  send  to  my  American  friends,  no 
doubt  getting  tired  of  my  demands  upon  them  for  the  enter- 
tainment of  American  ladies,  put  up  a  cruel  job  on  the  Ameri- 
cano. Of  course,  my  "soul"  with  the  wicked  black  eyes  was  not 
at  the  bottom  of  it,  though  she  cunningly  enough  had  her  mamma 
invite  me  to  escort  her  and  the  young  ladies  to  the  woods  one 
Sunday  morning,  where,  as  they  said,  I  could  assist  them  in  gath- 
ering all  the  leaves  I  desired. 

I  was  on  hand  early  enough  to  take  coffee  with  my  perse- 
cutors, who  inveigled  me  into  the  woods  nearby  as  their  escort. 
We  tramped  over  the  grass  through  all  sorts  of  rich  foliage, 
gathering  a  basket  full  of  choice  specimens. 

On  returning  to  their  house,  I  noticed  that  the  ladies,  after 
a  short  disappearance,  reappeared  in  the  parlors  in  a  changed  cos- 
tume, their  faces  and  hair  showing  that  they  had  just  emerged 
from  a  bath.  I  supposed  this,  as  is  their  usual  custom,  was  taken 
as  we  wash  our  faces  when  exhausted  or  tired. 

I  spent  the  day  with  them,  not  having  any  opportunity  for  a 
bath ;  in  fact,  I  have  since  found  out  that  it  was  part  of  their 
scheme  to  detain  me  and  prevent  my  changing  as  they  had  done, 
to  clear  themselves  from  moqueens. 

In  a  day  or  two  afterward  I  was  so  completely  covered  with 
the  moqueen  stings  that  I  could  not  keep  still  for  a  minute,  and 


126  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

for  a  week  I  had  to  endure  this  punishment  which  afforded  my 
tormentors  unbounded  merriment  when  I  suggested  gathering 
more  leaves  and  moqueens. 

One  soon  learns  to  "Keep  off  the  grass"  as  well  as  not  to 
touch  the  shrubbery. 

The  South  American  senhorita  of  the  period  is  just  as 
smart  as  are  our  American  girls  of  the  same  date  and  usually 
has  as  much  fun. 

There  are  no  mosquitoes  or  gnats  or  moqueens  on  the  sen- 
horitas.  Though  they  may  not  be  quite  so  rapid,  as  in  our 
railroad  age  and  country,  they  get  there  on  time,  and  sometimes 
ahead  of  time. 

This  reminds  me  that  there  are  no  house  flies  in  Para,  that 
is  none  to  bother;  but  that  is  about  the  only  thing  in  the  way 
of  a  pest  that  they  do  not  have. 

Mosquitoes  are  not  so  large,  but  they  are  numerous  and 
vicious. 

Everybody  in  Para  sleeps  under  a  mosquito  netting,  and  as 
the  entire  population  sleeps  in  hammocks,  a  netting  called  mos- 
quetaire,  is  made  to  suit  the  swinging  hammock,  fitting  over  it 
suspended  from  the  ends  and  gracefully  hanging  to  the  floor 
like  a  curtain. 

It  is  said  that  the  mosquitoes  of  the  upper  Amazon  will  send 
their  little  bills  right  through  the  heavy  material  of  the  ham- 
mocks, making  the  attacks  from  under  the  hammock,  into  the 
body  of  the  sleeper,  who  awakens  with  a  start  as  if  a  pin  had 
been  thrust  into  him. 

Sleeping  in  a  hammock  (or  rede)  is  quite  an  accomplishment, 
that  one  may  learn  only  in  the  countries  where  they  are  used  en- 
tirely in  place  of  beds. 

The  hammocks  are  usually  made  of  cotton  or  woolen  ma- 
terial, woven  or  manufactured  to  the  required  shape,  ready  for 
the  netting  of  ropes  at  each  end.  They  are  of  all  colors  and  mixed 
patterns,  such  as  we  may  find  in  our  fancy  bed  covers. 


BRAZILIAN   FAMILY   LIFE.  127 

The  ladies  seem  to  use  those  made  entirely  of  white  ma- 
terial, many  of  them  being  richly  embroidered. 

To  every  hammock  there  are  curtains  of  the  same  material, 
though  not  so  closely  woven^  which  hang  on  each  side  like  trim- 
mings or  broad  fringes. 

These  side  curtains  answer  the  threefold  purpose  of  orna- 
ment, concealing  the  shape  of  the  occupant  while  lying  in  the  ham- 
mock, or  they  may  be  drawn  over  the  body  as  a  covering  or  pro- 
tection against  mosquitoes,  while  taking  a  siesta  during  the  day- 
time. 

A  Brazileiro  is  as  particular  about  the  stringing  of  his  ham- 
mock as  any  old  maid  could  be  about  the  bed  she  sleeps  in. 
Neither  will  he  permit  any  one  but  himself  to  get  into  his  rede, 
not  that  he  is  selfish,  but  because  it  spoils  its  shape  for  him. 

My  Brazilian  friend  tells  me  he  always  knows  when  a 
foreigner  has  been  in  his  hammock. 

A  Brazileiro,  especially  a  Cearense,  which  means  a  native  of 
the  province  of  Ceara  (pronounced  Sea-a-raw)  practically  lives 
in  his  hammock.  They  are  used  as  a  rocking  chair,  the  occupant 
sitting  crosswise  in  the  middle  with  the  curtain  drawn  up  for  the 
support  of  his  back,  his  feet  resting  on  the  floor  while  he  or  she 
swings  and  talks  or  eats. 

They  sleep  bias,  or  lie  diagonally  across  the  hammock,  not 
straight  as  we  do;  that  is,  the  head  rests  high  on  one  side  while 
the  feet  are  thrust  out  in  the  slack,  or  low  part  of  the  other  end. 
In  this  way  one  can  rest  very  well. 

It  is  the  universal  experience  of  foreigners,  who  after  a 
few  days  of  backache,  become  accustomed  to  the  hammock,  that 
they  prefer  it  to  a  bed. 

Each  house  is  generally  provided  with  one  bed,  which  is 
in  the  guest-room,  and  is  only  used  occasionally,  being  more  of 
an  ornament  for  the  display  of  the  dressing  than  for  general 
use. 

It  is  not  at  all  difficult  to  take  up  your  bed  (hammock)  and 
walk  in  that  country.     Families  do  it  every  day. 


128  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

A  half  (.lozen  of  the  ladies  of  a  family  occupy  one  room,  in 
which  they  swing  their  tasteful  hammocks  to  the  hooks  that  are 
always  provided  in  every  house,  after  saying  their  prayers  and 
counting  their  beads,  they  gracefully  drop  out  of  sight  into  the 
depths  of  their  hammocks,  putting  their  little  feet  out  far  enough 
to  touch  the  floor  and,  literally  speaking,  kick  each  other  and  them- 
selves to  sleep,  their  merry,  laughing  voices  only  ceasing  when  the 
hammocks  have  ceased  to  vibrate,  like  the  pendulum  of  a  clock 
that  has  run  down — Boa — noite. 

When  one  makes  a  call  upon  a  Paranese  lady  of  refinement, 
at  her  house,  the  visitor  does  not  ring  a  bell  or  knock  at  the  door. 

There  are  no  door  bells,  and  the  doors  usually  open  into 
broad  hallways,  into  which  the  guest  enters,  calling  attention  to 
his  presence  by  the  oriental  method  of  clapping  the  hands.  A 
knock  or  stamping  with  the  feet  would  be  considered  almost  in- 
sulting. 

The  hand  signal  is  sure  to  bring  some  one  of  the  family  or 
servants  to  the  hallway,  who  will  warmly  greet  and  escort  the 
visitor  to  the  salon  or  parlor,  or  perhaps  one  of  the  living  rooms, 
if  the  visitor  happens  to  be  familiar  with  the  family. 

There  are  no  carpets  used  in  Para.  The  very  best  and 
wealthiest  houses  show  the  bare,  but  painted  or  varnished  floors 
over  which  a  few  rugs  or  mats  may  be  spread.  The  reason 
for  this  is  obvious,  as  in  that  damp  climate,  so  pregnant  with  in- 
sect life,  a  closely  carpeted  room  would  become  mouldy  and 
disagreeable. 

The  chairs  are  usually  placed  in  the  center  of  the  room,  in 
two  rows  facing  each  other,  the  settee  or  sofa  occupying  one 
side  of  the  hollow  square  thus  formed,  so  that  a  guest  is  vis-a-vis 
with  his  or  her  visitor,  and  the  probabilities  are  that  the  madre  or 
padre  will  occupy  the  sofa  at  the  same  time. 

This  is  not  always  the  case,  however,  though  it  is  expected 
that  the  parents  will  be  entertained  along  with  their  children. 


Courtesy   of  Director-General   John   Barrett,    of  Pan-^\merican    Union. 

DA  PAZ  THEATER,  PARA,  BRAZIL. 

This  handsome  building  of  white  marble,  with  fine  gardens  in  the 
front  and  rear,  is  one  of  the  noted  theaters  of  South  America. 
The  edifice,  which  belongs  to  the  State  Government,  is  free 
from  needless  detail  and  overornamentation. 


BRAZILIAN    FAMILY    LIFE.  129 

If  the  household  duties  prevent  their  attendance,  one  or  more  of 
the  sisters  or  a  brother  or  aunt  will  surely  be  on  hand  to  fill  the 
quota. 

At  first  this  custom  was  a  little  annoying  to  me,  as  it 
seemed  as  if  they  were  suspicious  of  their  visitor ;  but,  like  every- 
thing else,  I  soon  got  used  to  it.  The  practise  did  not  prevent  my 
making  numerous  visits  in  Nazareth. 

I  would  find  myself  almost  every  evening  meandering 
through  the  dark  Estrada  St.  Jeronynio  a  Travessa  principe, 
wading  through  the  mud  and  pools  of  water  which  always  col- 
lected after  the  rains,  and  that  I  would  not  always  see  through 
my  eyeglasses  until  I  had  plunged  in,  at  the  risk  of  soiling  my 
white  trousers  while  en  route  to  call  on  lady  friends. 

The  lower  classes  live,  or  more  properly  speaking  are 
huddled  together,  in  rows  of  odd  looking  little  one-story,  thatched 
huts  in  the  crooked,  unpaved  and  ill-smelling,  narrow  alleys  or 
streets  of  the  old  city  of  Para,  as  distinct  from  the  modern  sec- 
tion occupied  by  the  merchants. 

This  old  Para  resembles  closely,  both  in  appearances  and 
mode  of  life,  the  sections  of  our  cities  devoted  to  the  colored  popu- 
lation, without  preference  in  favor  of  our  kind  of  slum  citizens. 

Amongst  these  people  are  numerous  types  of  the  aboriginal 
African  and  Indian,  who,  with  a  majority  of  their  offspring,  were 
until  the  recent  emancipation,  the  slaves  of  the  higher  classes. 
They  are  always  ugly,  to  the  verge  of  hideousness,  when  old. 

They  sleep  in  hammocks  which  are  not  only  comfortable  in 
that  hot  climate,  but  economical  as  well  in  the  use  of  material 
and  the  space  they  occupy,  as  an  entire  family  may  be  strung  in 
one  room,  all  the  small  children  being  piled  into  one  bag  (or  rede) 
in  which  they  are  hung  for  the  night. 

The  necessary  cooking  for  a  diet  of  fish,  jerked  beef  and  far- 
inha,  is  usually  done  in  a  back  yard.  On  account  of  the  filthy 
appearance  and  indescribably  disagreeable  smells  about  these  habi- 
tations, I  was  reminded  on  my  first  visit  of  some  previous  exper- 
ience in  Chinatown,  San  Francisco. 


130  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

All  who  live  in  the  old  town  are  not  of  the  same  degraded 
character.  Very  many  shopkeepers  and  clerks  live  in  the  better 
houses  of  what  were  formerly  the  aristocratic  streets  of  that 
section.  These  are  fairly  furnished  as  such  things  go.  The  front 
room  or  salon  is  usually  kept  clean,  but  a  glance  behind  the 
screens  in  some  of  the  houses  would  develop  a  degree  of  famil- 
iarity with  low  life  that  would  be  a  surprise  to  an  American 
housekeeper,  and  would  surely  become  so  disagreeable  through  the 
almost  universal  untidiness,  that  the  first  visit  would  be  short- 
ened and  seldom  repeated. 

Some  remarkable  stories  might  be  told  of  an  American 
consul's  experience  and  observations  while  exploring  the  dark 
byways  of  this  old  tropical  city. 

Realizing  that  I  was  to  remain  in  the  country  but  a  short 
time,  I  determined  to  make  hay  while  the  sun  shone,  and  after 
it  had  set,  especially  at  night;  and  I  believe  that,  under  the 
chaperonage  of  my  Brazilian  friends,  I  saw  all  they  had  to  show. 

Because  of  this  freely  expressed  disposition  to  undergo 
an  actual  experience,  even  to  the  testing  of  the  food  and  the 
native  drinks  manufactured  by  the  women,  from  the  nut  of  the 
palm  tree,  I  was  guyed  by  the  English  as  the  great  American 
"sampler."  I  tried  everything,  getting  all  I  desired  in  the  way 
of  an  experience,  and  came  away  completely  satisfied. 

I  was  obliged  to  walk  through  the  narrow  streets  of  the  old 
town  almost  every  night  on  my  return  from  Nazareth  to  my 
hotel,  in  the   old  city. 

I  was  never  molested,  though  I  had  been  cautioned  by 
friends  to  look  out  for  an  attack  on  account  of  my  independent 
action  and  continued  criticisms  in  the  Para  papers. 

Early  one  evening,  in  going  up  the  two-foot  wide  pavement, 
I  encountered  a  young  Brazileiro.  The  young  blood  enjoyed  a 
title  under  the  empire  of  which  he  was  quite  proud,  and  as  the 
brother-in-law  of  an  Englishman  in  Para,  he  assumed  superior 
airs. 


BRAZILIAN  FAMILY  LIFE.  131 

It  had  been  raining  and  water  was  dropping  on  the  side- 
walks from  the  overhanging  roofs.  This  chap  stood  in  the  cen- 
ter of  the  walk,  and  when  I  approached  and  touched  him,  ask- 
ing to  be  allowed  to  pass,  he  pointed  to  the  street  as  being 
ample  enough,  and  at  the  same  instant  showed  his  row  of  grin- 
ning teeth  in  a  sinister  laugh  to  his  comrades  inside  the  store. 

I  was  in  a  bad  humor,  perhaps,  and  on  the  spur  of  the  mo- 
ment, forgetting  that  I  was  a  consul,  I  struck  him  on  the  ear, 
such  a  fierce,  sudden  blow  that  he  staggered  into  the  middle 
of  the  street  himself  and  I  walked  on  past. 

It  was  all  done  in  a  minute,  yet  it  raised  a  great  disturbance 
for  an  hour  or  so.  I  walked  over  to  a  barber  shop,  being  opposite, 
and  sat  down  to  be  shaved  while  awaiting  results.  Nothing  was 
said  to  me,  but  an  incessant  jabbering  was  kept  up  in  Portuguese. 

A  few  days  thereafter  an  article  appeared  in  the  paper  at- 
tacking me  for  the  "assault."  I  did  not  mind  this  at  all,  until 
I  found  that  my  American  friend  Pussy  had  sent  it  to  the  de- 
partment with  a  garbled  statement  of  the  incident  from  the 
Brazileiro  whom  I  had  "assaulted." 

I  was  congratulated  generally  by  Brazilians  for  having  pun- 
ished one  of  their  own  who  had  recently  been  found  guilty  of 
shooting  a  girl  of  sixteen. 

After  this,  when  I  went  on  that  avenue,  some  of  the  people 
would  go  out  in  the  middle  of  the  street  to  avoid  meeting  the 
"Consul  Americano." 

Brazileiros  of  a  certain  class  seldom  fight;  that  is,  they  do  not 
strike  each  other.  Their  method  is  talk,  talk,  talk,  or  to  write 
abusive  articles  and  have  them  printed  in  the  newspapers. 


CHAPTER    XIII. 

CONSULAR    REPORT   ON    HEALTH. 

IKE  all  newcomers  to  Para,  the  new   con- 
sul was  nervous  about  the  prevailing  yel- 
low  fever,  and  gave  the   subject  a  good 
deal  of  attention,  making  official  notes  of 
conditions   by   preparing  a   health   report 
which  he  thought  at  the  time  would  be 
his  first  and  last  official  communication, 
as  he  had    about  concluded  to  offer   his 
resignation  with  it. 
In  the  sense  of  giving  Satan  his  due,  I  beg  to  acknowledge 
my  obligation  for  data,  etc.,  collected  by  the  consular  clerk,  who, 
I  may  add,  was    fully  competent  for  the  task,  taking  a  sort  of 
fiendish  delight  in  the  work. 

As  this  subject  became  an  international  question,  I  quote 
herewith  the  exact  words  of  the  correspondence,  with  papers  ac- 
companying the  official  report  at  the  time.. 

(Note. — The  reader  will  observe  that  further  on  in  this  nar- 
rative the  sunny  side  of  life  in  Para  is  described.) 

Attention  is  called  to  the  fact  that  the  Department  of  State 
was  kind  enough  to  acknowledge  one  of  my  first  reports  in  a 
complimentary  dispatch  as  follows : 

"Your  excellent  and  valuable  health  report." 
As  this  contained  information  of  a  character  that  did  not 
present  an  especially  attractive  field  for  reciprocity,  then  being 
inaugurated,  the  department  did  not  think  it  good  policy  to  pub- 
lish it.  I  offer  a  synopsis  of  the  official  report  sent  to  the  depart- 
ment, for  the  benefit  of  those  who  may  contemplate  doing  busi- 
ness in  that  valley  of  the  shadow  of  death ;  also  as  an  interesting 
study  for  the  medical  fraternity  in  reference  to  the  treatment  of 


CONSULAR  REPORT  ON  HEALTH.  I33 

yellow  fever,  leprosy,  and,  worst  of  all,  that  "death  in  life"  pecu- 
liar to  this  point — beriberi. 

As  far  as  I  have  discovered,  the  subject  has  not  been  made 
generally  public. 

I  was  under  special  obligations  to  Dr.  Jose  Paes  de  Carvalho 
and  to  Dr.  Jayme  P.  Bricio,  both  eminently  qualified  by  medical 
education  in  Paris  and  Berlin,  as  well  as  by  reason  of  many  years 
of  successful  practice  in  Para,  to  furnish  correct  data. 

Dr.  Paes,  as  he  is  familiarly  known,  is  one  of  the  earliest  and 
most  influential  Republicans,  was  also  later  governor,  and  one  of 
the  two  senators  recently  elected  to  represent  Amazonia  in  the 
Brazilian  Congress  at  Rio. 

In  personal  appearance  he  reminded  me  so  strikingly  of  the 
portraits  of  the  "First  Consul"  that,  after  learning  of  his  ability 
as  a  leader,  I  was  constrained  to  call  him  the  Napoleon  of  Ama- 
zonia politics. 

He  speaks  English  fluently,  and  one  of  his  prominent  charac- 
teristics is  that  he  loves  to  hear  the  truth,  and  is  not  afraid  to 
speak  it  himself,  and  also  to  practice  that  which  the  English  mis- 
sionaries preach — the  golden  rule  of  fair  play. 

I  am  also  indebted  to  a  brother  of  the  governor.  Dr.  Pedro 
Chermonte,  director  of  the  City  Hospital,  and  Dr.  Lyso  Castro, 
of  the  health  bureau,  for  valuable  assistance  in  collecting  the 
statistics  given  in  official  reports. 

This  preliminary  report  disclosed  the  unwholesome  truth  that, 
for  many  years,  scarcely  a  day  passed  in  which  there  was  not  a 
death  from  yellow  fever  in  Para. 

There  had  been  no  severe  epidemic  for  years,  but  the  disease 
is  conceded  by  all  Para  physicians  to  be  constantly  endemic,  which 
fact  they  conceal  from  the  public  of  Para  by  giving  to  the  dread 
disease  several  different  names,  all  of  which  are  equivalent  to 
yellow  fever.  The  object  is  to  keep  the  unwelcome  fact  from 
reaching  other  countries  that  may  be  interested  in  business  at 
that  point. 

For  this  same  reason  I  concluded  thus  early  to  investigate 
and  report  upon  the  matter. 


134  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

The  native  Paranese  are  considered  to  be  exempt  from  at- 
tacks of  yellow  fever,  and  if  such  cases  occur,  it  is  generally  diag- 
nosed as  malarial  fever  (febro  palastre). 

When  an  American  dies  with  unmistakable  "yellow  jack"  it 
is  called  "typho  Americano,"  and  an  Englishman  is  buried  on  a 
physician's  certificate  as  "typho  icterco,"  or  bilious  typhus.  A 
German  gets  his  six  feet  of  gravel  under  the  title  of  "febre  per- 
nicioso."  Whatever  name  they  may  give  to  it,  the  fact  is  that 
"febre  Amarella"   attacks  nearly  all  new  comers. 

After  a  residence  of  two  years  a  death  from  yellow  fever  is 
very  rare.  The  mosquito  theory  does  not  seem  to  apply  to  the 
native  or  old  foreign  residents. 

One  of  the  peculiar  features  is  that  the  dread  disease  almost 
always  selects  for  its  victims  those  who  may  be  designated  as 
good  young  men  who  come  to  Brazil  to  die  early. 

It  is  a  remarkable  coincidence  that  those  of  the  young  for- 
eigners of  abstemious  habits,  who  live  economically  in  order  that 
they  may  send  their  savings  home,  sooner  or  later  pay  the  penalty 
for  their  good  conduct  by  wrestling  with  the  grim  monster  "yellow 
jack."  The  boys  who  are  more  careless  and  indulge  in  the  dissi- 
pations of  the  country  seem  to  escape.  Old  persons  have  nothing 
to  fear  from  it,  which  is  one  consolation  to  the  few  who  grow 
old  in  Para.  It  is  the  full  blooded  young  fellows  who  catch  it 
every  time. 

It  was,  therefore,  with  a  desire  to  observe  nature's  first  law 
of  self  preservation  that  I  early  came  to  the  conclusion  to  live 
well  while  an  American  consul,  realizing  that  even  the  best  I 
could  get  was  not  good  enough  to  compensate  for  the  dangers  and 
disadvantages  of  life  in  that  land. 

The  yellow  fever  was  discovered  by  Columbus,  or  it  discov- 
ered Columbus,  in  his  first  voyage  to  the  West  Indies,  as  the 
historians  of  the  period  describe  the  breaking  out  of  the  epidemic 
at  Barcelona,  on  his  return,  yet  in  four  hundred  years  the  scien- 
tists have  only  recently  been  able  to  locate  the  isolated  microbe, 
or  bacterium,  or  whatever  it  might  be,  in  a  mosquito. 


CONSULAR  REPORT  ON  HEALTH.  135 

It  will  be  observed  from  my  report  that  the  disease  which 
causes  the  greatest  mortality  is  not  yellow  fever,  but  beriberi 
(pronounced  bery  bery  approximately),  a  disease  peculiar  to  that 
part  of  Brazil,  equatorial  India,  Japan  and  Africa,  which  is  not 
known  elsewhere. 

Beriberi  has  baffled  the  skill  of  the  best  physicians  of  Para 
and  Paris,  who  have  studied  it  most  attentively.  During  my 
incumbency  Pasteur  sent  a  French  scientist  to  Para  to  investigate. 
Its  cause  is  unknown.  The  only  cure  is  a  change  of  residence, 
or  an  ocean  voyage,  which,  if  taken  in  time,  seldom  fails  to 
effect  a  speedy  recovery,  even  if  the  patient  goes  but  a  day's 
journey  from  the  point  where  the  disease  prevails. 

It  usually  begins  in  a  partial  paralysis  of  the  lower  extremi- 
ties, with  numbness,  and  a  feeling  technically  called  by  the  phy- 
sicians formication.  The  paralysis  gradually  progresses  upward, 
accompanied  by  adamatous  swelling.  The  flesh  becomes  as  pliable 
as  putty,  so  that  an  indentation  with  the  finger  ends  remains  as 
if  it  were  soft  clay. 

The  patient  may  feel  but  little  discomfort  at  first,  except 
the  loss  of  the  use  of  the  affected  parts.  His  appetite  and  spirits 
continue  good.  The  paralysis  slowly  continues,  if  relief  is  not 
obtained,  until  it  reaches  the  vital  parts.  The  death  is  a  slow 
suffocation.  The  breathing  grows  more  difficult  each  day,  re- 
quiring sometimes  over  a  week  for  the  sufferer  to  finally  suffocate. 

There  is  one  species  called  galloping  beriberi,  in  which  the 
pale  rider  on  the  white  horse  sometimes  ends  his  work  in  five 
days  from  the  first  notable  symptom. 

Happily  it  is  not  contagious,  but  a  continued  residence  in  the 
country  without  change  is  apt  to  induce  its  appearance  in  for- 
eigners. 

Tubercular  consumption  is  necessarily  extensive  in  certain 
locations,  due  to  the  want  of  care  and  cleanliness  and  the  fearful 
prevalence  of  venereal  diseases,  especially  syphilis.  In  collecting 
data  the  missionary  clerk  called  special  attention  to  the  fact  that 
more  than  one  per  cent  of  the  registered  deaths  at  Para  are  from 
leprosy,  and    particularly  noted  the  fact  that  no  efficient  means 


136  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

were  being  taken  to  segregate  the  lepers  from  the  rest  of  the 
community.  It  is  not  considered  infectious.  The  municipahty 
supports  a  colony  for  lepers  four  miles  from  Para,  but  only  the 
indigent  lepers  who  require  aid  from  the  government  live  there. 
Over  two  hundred  of  these  poor  lepers  mix  indiscriminately  in  the 
city  of  Para,  as  beggars,  scattered  about  the  streets  and  shops. 

Some  of  them  sell  in  the  market  houses  the  produce  raised 
by  their  labor  at  the  colony  farm ;  especially  poultry  and  eggs, 
but  the  remarkable  feature  is  that  far  more  numerous  are  the 
lepers  of  Para  who  do  not  live  at  the  colony  or  who  are  unknown 
to  the  stranger.  The  American  missionary,  who  had  lived  there 
ten  years,  advised  me  that  there  are  lepers  in  the  very  best  families 
of  Para,  as  well  as  numerous  employes  of  business  houses.  I  was 
later  told  that  the  agitation  of  the  subject  in  the  Para  papers  by 
foreigners  was  the  cause  of  the  hostility  of  the  press  to  the  Consul 
Americano.  Naturally,  it  was  desired  to  keep  these  disagreeable, 
unwholesome  facts  from  the  public. 

The  closing  words  of  my  official  report  reads,  "It  will  be 
evident  to  the  department  that  the  publication  of  this  report  will, 
in  a  personal  sense,  add  to  the  unhealthfulness  of  Para  as  your 
consul's  residence,  and  might  perhaps  serve  to  increase  the  mor- 
tality list.  I  therefore  take  the  opportunity  to  again  call  attention 
to  my  request  for  relief,  or  the  approval  of  my  request  for  a  leave 
of  absence,  with  authorization  to  visit  the  upper  Amazon,  etc." 

Before  dismissing  this  unwholesome  subject  it  is  perhaps 
proper  to  add,  that  the  regular  monthly  health  reports  subse- 
quently made  to  the  department  not  only  confirmed  the  statements 
regarding  the  general  unhealthfulness  of  Para,  made  during  the 
year  previous,  but  further  investigation  disclosed  the  unwelcome 
truth  that  the  official  figures  which  are  furnished  consuls,  were, 
at  least  twenty-five  per  cent  below  the  actual  facts. 

Of  leprosy  and  its  treatment  I  subsequently  made  a  special 
study,  submitting  fuller  and  more  complete  reports,  which  were 
referred  to  the  marine  hospital  service. 


CONSULAR  REPORT  ON  HEALTH.  137 

The  British  government  became  deeply  interested  in  my  state- 
ments, having  appointed  a  special  commission  to  investigate  and 
report  upon  the  question  of  contamination  or  contagion  of  leprosy. 

Our  department,  for  what  may  have  been  good  reasons 
declined  to  publish  the  reports. 

As  Para  is  the  most  northerly  and  the  last  port  at  which 
steamers  touch  en  route  from  Brazil  to  the  United  States,  the 
officers  usually  expect  a  clean  bill  of  health  regardless  of  circum- 
stances, because  it  had  been  the  custom  to  give  it.  Of  course,  it 
is  to  the  interest  of  north  bound  steamers  to  minimize  the  un- 
healthfulness  of  this  last  port  of  call. 

The  consular  bill  of  health,  in  precisely  the  same  printed  form, 
is  supplied  to  the  consulates  at  all  ports  alike,  without  any  regard 
to  the  healthfulness  or  unhealth fulness  of  the  varying  latitudes 
or  the  different  climates. 

The  leading  clause  reads : 

"I  hereby  certify  that  good  health  is  enjoyed  at  this  port  and 
vicinity,  without  any  suspicion  of  plague  or  contagious  disease 
whatsoever." 

A  consul  is  required  by  the  regulations  to  issue  to  each  ship, 
sailing  from  his  port  to  the  United  States,  one  of  these  regula- 
tion forms,  to  which  he  attaches  the  large  red  consular  seal  and 
stamp,  alongside  of  his  signature  and  title  as  consul. 

If  a  foreign  vessel,  a  small  fee  is  collected,  which  is  accounted 
for  to  the  Treasury  Department.  If  a  United  States  vessel,  no 
fees  are  charged  for  this  or  for  any  other  consular  service. 

The  masters  of  foreign  ships  desired,  of  course,  and  in  a 
majority  of  cases  secured,  from  our  consuls  what  is  termed  "a. 
clean  bill  of  health,"  in  exchange  for  their  fee,  because  it  was 
the  custom. 

The  officers  of  American  ships,  however,  who  paid  no  fees, 
demanded  as  a  matter  of  special  privilege  to  them  a  clean  bill 
from  the  American  Consul,  as  a  means  of  promoting  American 
commerce. 


138  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

Without  a  thought  of  personality,  or  any  desire  to  make 
an  exhibition  of  "brief  authority"  as  a  consul,  but  simply  com- 
plying with  obligation  and  desire  to  do  my  duty  in  giving  my 
first  attention  to  this  question  of  health,  I  naturally  stumbled 
on  the  first  block  in  my  path — the  regulation  bill  of  health. 

I  did  not  see  how  I  could  conscientiously  send  to  the  de- 
partment by  the  same  boat  a  report  establishing  the  fact  that 
yellow  fever  prevailed  in  that  district,  and  that  there  were  other 
contagious  diseases  in  the  place,  and  officially  issue  to  the  steamer 
carrying  my  report,  a  certificate  under  the  seal  of  the  office, 
that  "good  health  is  enjoyed  at  this  port  and  vicinity,  zvithout  any 
suspicion  of  plague  or  contagious  disease  zvhatsoever." 

I  understood  from  the  "regulations"  that  each  consul  was 
required  to  advise  the  department  of  the  prevalence  of  any  epi- 
demic, but  the  consul  is  shorn  of  responsibility  in  this  direction 
by  contrary  instructions,  and  that  it  is  the  province  of  the  local 
board  of  health  to  determine  the  question  of  an  epidemic. 

In  this  port  there  was  no  local  board  of  health,  but  the  data 
obtained  from  the  most  reliable  Brazilian  sources  established 
the  general  prevalence  of  yellow  fever. 

I  consulted  the  British  consul  in  regard  to  his  custom  in  the 
premises. 

For  the  kindness  and  courtesy  of  this  gentleman  I  am  un- 
der many  obligations,  not  only  during  my  first,  but  last  days  as 
consul. 

He  smilingly  suggested  that  Her  Majesty's  consul  was  also 
the  agent  for  the  English  steamship  company  whose  steamers 
sailed  weekly  to  New  York  and  Liverpool.  He  did  not  consider 
that  his  duty  as  consul  restricted  him,  as  an  agent,  in  issuing 
to  his  own  ships  a  free  bill  of  health.  It  was  generally  un- 
derstood in  his  country  that,  though  Para  was  the  most  un- 
healthful  city  in  South  America,  yet  their  ships  sailing  from 
this  port  were  at  sea  eighteen  to  twenty-five  days  before  reaching 
Liverpool,  and  they  had  in  addition  to  pass  the  quarantine 
gauntlet  en  route  at  Madeira,  Lisbon  and  Havre,  so  that  if  any 
sickness  was  on  board  the  fact  would  be  known  and  telegraphed 


CONSULAR  REPORT  ON  HEALTH.  139 

some  days  ahead  of  their  arrival.     The  same  precaution  did  not 
exist  on   the  New  York  route. 

He  was  perfectly  willing,  however,  to  pay  the  American 
consular  fee  for  a  conditional  bill  for  his  ships  that  sailed  direct- 
ly to  New  York   in  ten  days'  time. 

In  a  supplementary  report  I  called  the  attention  of  our  gov- 
ernment to  the  subject,  enclosing  one  of  the  regulation  printed 
forms  intimating  that  the  consul's  certifying  generally  to  good 
health,  etc.,  might  become  misleading  to  our  health  officers  in 
New  York,  especially  during  the  summer  season. 

The  American  ships  that  come  up  from  Rio,  and  called  at 
Para  en  route  north,  lay  a  day  or  so  in  the  harbor,  taking  on 
cargo  of  rubber,  hides,  etc.,  reeking  with  filth  gathered  in  ma- 
larial swamps.  Besides  this,  the  laborers  who  handled  the  stuff 
were  in  some  instances  lepers. 

In  addition  to  these  facts,  the  crew  and  passengers  of  each 
ship  were  accustomed  to  come  ashore  during  the  ship's  stay, 
mixing  indiscriminately  with  the  populace,  eating  freely  of  fruit 
and  exposing  themselves  to  the  hot  sun  and  damp  air — conditions 
that  are  almost  certain  to  bring  on  yellow  fever,  which  had  in 
some  cases  developed  after  the  vessel  had  gotten  out  to  sea. 

As  illustrating  the  unreliability  of  ordinary  quarantine  regu- 
lations, I  overheard  a  conversation  between  a  ship's  official  and 
one  of  our  Portuguese  doctor  passengers,  who  it  was  under- 
stood was  to  be  appointed  a  surgeon  on  the  American  line, 
wherein  it  was  humorously  related  how  that  same  ship's  official 
had,  on  a  previous  voyage,  succeeded  in  deceiving  the  health 
officer  at  Barbados,  in  regard  to  a  case  of  yellow  fever  aboard 
his  ship,  then  en  route  to  New  York. 

The  surgeon's  observation  to  the  effect  that  "it  costs  about 
five  hundred  dollars  a  day  to  be  quarantined,  and  they  couldn't 
afford  that,"  completely  and  pointedly  covered  the  ground  of  ob- 
jection to  quarantine  regulations,  the  inference  being  that  the 
first  consideration  in  quarantine  matters,  as  in  all  others,  is 
usually  of  a   selfish   character,  more  regard  being    paid   to  the 


140  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

mercenary  interests  of  the  few,  than  to  the  sanitary  conditions 
of  the  many. 

It  will  be  apparent  that  in  our  service  the  yellow  fever  may 
be  carried  to  our  own  doors  by  ships  which  also  carry  a  consul's 
clean  bill  of  health. 

At  Barbados,  five  days  from  Para,  the  American  steamers 
call  en  route  north.  The  large  hotel  at  this  place  is  extensively 
advertised  by  the  steamship  company  as  an  especially  attractive 
health  resort  for  invalids. 

The  regulations  are  rigidly  enforced  by  the  British  health 
officials  there. 

The  ship's  officers,  naturally  enough,  found  it  embarrassing 
to  have  to  disembark  their  tourists  into  a  quarantine  hospital, 
and  for  this  reason,  are  particularly  anxious  to  conceal  the  truth 
in  regard  to  the  general  unhealthfulness  of  their  route. 

After  I  had  received  the  instructions  asked  for,  and  "dis- 
continued issuing  the  regulation  form,  because  it  had  been  the 
custom,"  I  was  importuned  to  issue  duplicate  bills ;  one  a  clean 
one,  which  could  be  exhibited  at  Barbados,  Martinique  and  St 
Thomas.  They  were  apparently  satisfied  with  the  amended 
form  for  our  New  York  officials. 

I  adhered  strictly  to  orders,  however,  and  one  unaccustomed 
to  the  numerous  subterfuges  to  which  a  Yankee  skipper  will 
resort  when  he  wants  to  get  around  a  consul  would  hardly  credit 
their  "ingenuity"  to  call  it  by  a  mild  term. 

For  instance,  I  learned  incidentally  that  the  English  consul 
at  Barbados — probably  appreciating  the  situation — demanded  to 
see  the  American  consul's  bill  from  Para,  when  the  shameful 
lie  was  cried  over  the  ship's  side — that  the  "Consul  was  on  a 
drunk  and  we  could  not  get  a  bill  from  him."  After  this  reached 
me,  I  took  the  precaution  to  quietly  mail  by  the  same  steamer 
a  duplicate  of  the  bill  issued  to  the  health  officer  at  Barbados, 
etc.,  so  that  they  were  "hoisted  by  their  own  petard." 

In  view  of  these  facts,  I  suggested  to  the  department  that 
the  words  underlined  in  the  form  "good  health  is  enjoyed  with 


CONSULAR  REPORT  ON  HEALTH.  141 

no  suspicion  of  contagious  diseases,  etc.,""  might,  at  the  discretion 
of  the  consul,  be  erased  and  amended,  so  as  to  read  that  "usual" 
health  was  enjoyed  at  Para,  and  certifying  on  each  certificate 
issued  to  the  number  of  deaths  from  yellow  fever  during  the 
week. 

From  the  facts  and  figures  so  stated,  without  comment  from 
the  consul,  the  health  officers  would  be  able  to  base  their  own 
conclusions,  after  careful  inspection  of  the  ships. 

I  was  officially  advised  that  my  "excellent  and  valuable"  re- 
ports were  favorably  received  at  the  Department  of  State  and 
forwarded  to  the  surgeon  general  of  the  Marine  Hospital  for 
his  action.  Soon  thereafter  I  received  a  lengthy  communication, 
enclosing  a  copy  of  a  letter  from  the  Secretary  of  the  Treasury, 
addressed  to  the  Secretary  of  State,  to  the  effect  that  the  con- 
sul's timely  suggestions  in  regard  to  altering  the  wording  of 
the  printed  form  to  meet  the  exigencies  of  each  case  was  fully 
approved  and  I  was  further  instructed  to  at  once  discontinue 
the  issuance  of  clean  bills  of  health,  and  to  fill  out  the  qualified 
form  as  I  had  suggested. 

Following  these  special  instructions,  a  general  circular  was 
issued  to  all  consuls  in  accordance  with  the  above. 


CHAPTER    XIV. 


YELLOW    FEVER. 

O   no   place  on   earth,   perhaps,   can  be   more 
truthfully  applied    than    to    Para    the    scrip- 
tural quotation,  "In  the  midst  of  life  we 
are  in  death." 

While  in  the  whirl  of  nightly  gaities, 
I    felt   sympathy   with    the   gen- 
eral    impression,     that     the 
social  dissipations  are  forced 
upon   the    foreign  residents   by  reason  of 
the   unhealthful   and   sometimes   unconge- 
nial surroundings. 

A  social  atmosphere  in  Para  is  cre- 

the   abundance   of   money  constantly  changing 

to  the  speculative  character  of  the  rubber 


trade. 


The  almost  nightly  balls,  hops  or  dances  in  private  houses 
at  certain  seasons  bring  out  the  more  companionable  element 
among  the  young  foreigners. 

Truly  the  participation  to  excess  with  exposure  to  night 
air  becomes  the  "dance  of  death"  to  many.  The  sudden  changes 
bring  on  chills  that  nearly  always  presage  an  attack  of  yellow 
fever. 

The  advice  volunteered  to  new  comers  is  to  avoid  the  sun 
after  eight  o'clock  in  the  morning  until  five  in  the  afternoon, 
and  not  risk  night  exposure  for  at  least  three  months  after 
arrival. 

It  is  the  universal  experience  that  when  a  new  comer  gets 
wet  and  chilled  in  the  rains  and  heavy    dews  that  begin  to  fall 


YELLOW  FEVER.  143 

like  a  mist  in  the  evenings,  and  indifferently  retires  without  the 
universal  precaution  of  bathing  with  cachaca  without  and  within 
he  is  sure  to  be  awakened  at  daylight  by  a  dull  headache  and  sick 
stomach,  accompanied  by  pains  in  the  back,  that  are  the  unerring 
first  symptoms  of  yellow  fever. 

This  must  be  taken  in  hand  at  once  to  prevent  fatal  results, 
and  it  comes  at  an  hour  most  inconvenient  to  find  assistance. 

So  it  is  that  one  going  from  a  warm  ballroom  into  the  night 
air,  and  then  to  bed,  is  liable  to  be  called  on  early  by  the  grim 
monster  who  very  quickly  doubles  up  the  strongest  man  in  par- 
oxysms. There  is  no  time  to  be  lost.  The  crisis  soon  comes, 
and  if  the  turn  is  fatal,  the  victim's  extremities  become  cold  be- 
fore he  is  relieved  of  his  sufferings. 

It  is  a  very  rapid  disease. 

No  time  nor  ceremony  is  lost  about  the  planting  of  the  dead. 
A  person  dying  at  night  is  buried  early  in  the  morning;  and  no 
body  is  ever  kept  overnight. 

I  have  never  gone  along  the  streets  late  at  night  from  these 
balls  or  parties  that  I  did  not  see  in  some  of  the  shops  a  couple 
of  dusky  workmen  making  coffins.  The  tack!  tack!  tack!  of 
those  who  trim  the  old  fashioned  shaped  coffin,  with  black  cloth 
and  white  braid,  can  be  heard  all  hours  of  the  night. 

There  is  scarcely  a  day  that  deaths  from  "febre  amarella" 
(the  Portuguese  for  yellow  fever)  are  not  reported ;  while  nu- 
merous deaths  are  given  as  "American  typhus,"  which  is  known 
to  be  the  worst    form  of  yellow  fever  under  another  name. 

Ten  deaths  from  yellow  fever  occurred  during  the  carnival, 
and  only  one  of  them  was  called  "febre  amarella"  without  any 
attempt  at  concealment.  There  were  eight  different  names  for 
the  ten  cases,  some  of  which,  translated  into  English,  are:  Amer- 
ican typhus,  icteric  typhus  fever,  remittent  typhus  fever,  per- 
nicious fever,  etc.  The  last  name  is  the  most  common  one  when 
a  native  Paranese  dies  of  yellow  fever. 

Nearly  all  new  comers  get  the  fever  sooner  or  later.  Dur- 
ing   this  gay  season  they  took,   from  the  room  adjoining  mine 


144  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

in  the  hotel,  a  new  comer  who  had  been  taken  down  with  yellow 
jack,  and  of  whom  the  hotel  wanted  to  get  rid  of  quietly. 

As  this  was  the  only  respectable  hotel  in  the  place  at  which 
I  could  live,  where  the  board  partitions  separating  the  rooms, 
extend  only  half  way  to  the  roof,  there  being  no  ceilings,  the 
reader  will  see  that  this  was  getting  the  yellow  fever  pretty  close 
to  my  home. 

This  did  not  interfere  with  my  appetite  for  dinner  that  day, 
but  when,  a  day  or  two  later,  I  called  at  the  British  consulate 
to  confer  with  the  courteous  English  consul  as  to  the  propriety 
of  reporting  the  disease  as  prevailing,  and  learned  that,  at  the 
very  time  I  was  talking  to  him,  there  were  four  cases  of  yellow 
fever  among  the  clerks  of  the  English  firm,  who  were  living  up- 
stairs in  the  same  building,  it  rather  shook  my  faith  in  the 
"good  health"  of  Para,  as  described  in  previous  consular  health 
reports. 

The  following  morning,  on  returning  from  breakfast  to  the 
United  States  consulate,  which  is  located  close  by  that  of  the 
English,  I  observed  the  English  consular  flag  flying  at  half  mast. 

One  of  the  brightest  of  the  four  young  Englishmen  who 
had  taken  a  rowboat  on  the  river  and  were  caught  in  a  rain,  and 
who  were  attacked  with  the  dread  disease,  had  died  within  the 
previous  hour  of  the  black  vomit. 

Though  every  possible  attention  had  been  given  the  young 
man  by  his  great  hearted  English  companions,  as  well  as  the 
tenderest  nursing  on  the  part  of  the  accomplished  wife  of  the 
consul,  who  was  a  mother  to  the  poor  boy,  he  most  reluctantly 
found  himself  called  upon  to  suffer  and  to  die  far  from  his  own 
land. 

I  knew  the  young  fellow  personally,  as  one  of  the  handsomest 
as  well  as  most  courteous  and  clever  young  men  of  the  English 
colony — a  tall,  smooth,  rosy  faced  young  man  of  twenty-two. 
He  had  only  been  here  eight  months,  was  unmarried,  but  leaving 
a  fond  mother  in  England. 


YELLOW  FEVER.  145 

When  a  teetotaler  dies  of  yellow  fever,  his  death  is  attributed 
in  part  to  the  fact  of  his  abstemiousness,  and  the  general  observa- 
tion was  that  this  was  connected  with  this  young  man's  death. 
It  was  a  sad  confirmation  of  the  statement  previously  made  that 
yellow  fever  chooses  for  its  victims  young  men  who  are  full 
of  life  and  vigor,  and  it  is  conceded  that  anything  that  tends  to 
diminish  a  man's  natural  vigor  leads  to  immunity  from  yellow 
fever.  "Wine  and  women"  are  the  prophylactic  treatment  adopted 
by  most  foreigners  who  come  to  Para,  and  physicians  of  prom- 
inence and  skill  in  the  treatment  of  the  disease  do  not  hesitate  to 
prescribe  this  heroic  treatment  to  recent  arrivals.  The  experiment 
does  not  always  succeed  in  keeping  oflF  the  terrible  disease ;  but 
when  a  straight  young  man  dies,  as  in  this  instance,  it  is  attributed 
to  his  virtue. 

It  is  said  that  the  poor  fellow  struggled  terribly  with  the 
grim  monster,  declaring  in  his  last  words  that  he  would  not  die. 
"Oh,"  he  said  to  the  four  young  friends  whose  strength  was 
required  to  hold  him  to  his  bed  in  his  paroxysms,  "I  am  too  young 
to  die."  "I  can't  die."  "I  won't  die;"  but  the  yellow  seal  had 
been  imprinted  upon  his  rosy  cheeks,  and  he  was  released  from 
his  terrible  agonies  at  one  o'clock.  At  four  o'clock  of  the  same 
afternoon,  during  one  of  the  driving  rain  storms  that  come  at 
this  hour,  he  was  taken  away  by  his  English  friends  and  buried 
in  a  corner  of  the  lonely  cemetery  where  so  many  sons  of  Eng- 
land lie. 

His  only  mourners  were  the  few  but  sorrowful  Englishmen. 
The  gray  headed  English  consul,  as  usual,  read  the  prayers  from 
the  Episcopal  prayer  book  suitable   for  the  occasion. 

One  of  the  remaining  survivors  was  brought  to  the  building* 
in  which  is  located  the  United  States  consulate.     He,  with    the 
other  two,  recovered.     But  it  will  be  seen  that  such  experiences 
are  not  of  a  character  to  cause  one  to  fall  in  love  with  this  sort 
of  a  life,  even  though  balls  and  other  fascinations  abound. 

Para  was  not  what  might  be  termed  a  winter  health  resort, 
especially    for  an  old   soldier,   who  innocently  sought  consular 


146  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

honors  with  a  view  of  restoring  health  lost  in  the  service  of  his 
country  during  the  civil  war. 

It  is  not  calculated  to  soothe  an  invalid  to  quiet  dreams,  to 
go  to  bed  at  night  expecting  to  awake  at  daylight  with  yellow 
fever. 

It  is  a  great  deal  easier,  and  requires  less  nerve,  to  sleep  on 
the  outposts  of  an  army  in  the  field,  expecting  to  go  into  battle 
in  the  morning.  There  you  have  some  show,  and  if  you  die,  it 
is  a  glorious  death.  In  this  consular  service  one  is  hurried  off 
to  a  grave  in  a  foreign  land  and  is  soon  forgotten. 

At  one  time  I  expected  that  it  would  be  my  fate  to  die  at 
my  post,  and,  in  fact,  arranged  all  my  papers  and  affairs  each 
day,  expecting  that  I  might  not  again  return  to  the  consulate. 

My  reports  and  correspondence  were  prepared  along  this 
line,  so  that  the  reader  may  peruse  these  statements  as,  in  a 
manner,  letters  from  a  resident  in  purgatory. 

I  was  not  particularly  nervous  about  the  yellow  fever  and 
must  admit  that  I  really  enjoyed  fair  health,  notwithstanding 
the  unfavorable  conditions.  I  attribute  my  immunity  from  the 
disease  to  the  fact  that  I  took  the  very  best  of  care  of  myself 
in  every  possible  regard ;  realizing  that  the  best  I  could  get  was 
the  proper  preventive.  I  determined  that  while  I  should  live  tem- 
perately I  would  certainly  avail  myself  of  all  that  was  good  and 
beneficial.* 

I  therefore  lived  as  became  an  American  gentleman  and 
the  United  States  consul — at  the  best  hotel. 

*  Lest  my  readers  should  conclude  that  Para  (or  Belem,  as  it  is  locally 
called)  is  an  unhealthy  place  on  the  average  the  following  comparative 
statistics  are  quoted  from  Vol.  I.,  p.  125  of  "Brazil,  Its  Natural  Riches 
and  Industries,  1910,"  Librarie  Aillaud  &  Cie,  Paris : 

Death  Rate 
Population,     per  1000. 

Para   (Belem)    177,000  20.2 

Havana    (Cuba)    280,000  21.9 

Alexandria   (Egypt)    208.755  30.1 

The  maximum  temperature  of  Para  is  33.3  degrees  Centigrade; 
minimum,  19.2  degrees;  average,  26.1  degrees. 


YELLOW  FEVER.  147 

The  usual  routine  for  the  day  was  a  shower  bath  on  rising 
at  about  six  a.  m.  and  the  daily  bath  is  the  one  thing  that  is 
requisite,  and  it  may  be  said,  that  is  indulged  in  by  all  classes. 

All  the  houses  are  supplied  with  a  shower  bath  where  each 
one  of  the  family  repairs  immediately  upon  rising,  for  his  morn- 
ing ablutions. 

Toilet  sets  are  in  each  bed  chamber,  of  course,  but  the  spray 
bath  is  generally  used.  Immediately  after  the  bath,  coffee  is 
served  in  a  small  cup,  with  one  roll,  and  butter,  which  is  par- 
taken of  while  yet  in  one's  pajamas  and  while  lounging  in  the 
hammock  before  dressing. 

The  regular  business  of  the  day  follows  cofTee.  My  habit 
was  to  take  a  brisk  walk  of  a  mile  or  so  toward  Nazareth  (before 
the  sun  became  hot),  reaching  the  consulate  about  eight  o'clock. 

I  kept  myself  occupied  in  making  reports.  Every  mail  car- 
ried voluminous  proofs  of  this  work,  covering  all  matters  of  in- 
terest to  the  government  and  on  people  which  I  think  completely 
covered  the  field.  These  may  be  had  upon  application  to  the 
department  by  any  one  interested  in  the  subject,  so  that  this 
narrative  of  a  personal  experience  need  not  be  further  encum- 
bered with  matter  already  printed  by  the  government.  In  letters 
of  transmittal,  which  will  also  be  found  on  file,  I  stated  as  a 
reason  for  thus  giving  them  so  much  to  read  that  I  was  expecting 
to  be  taken  with  yellow  fever  any  day  or  other  wise  "relieved," 
therefore  desired  to  complete  the  work  while  I  had  the  oppor- 
tunity. 

This  work  was  performed  before  the  regular  breakfast,  which 
is  served  from  eleven  a.  m.  to  one  p.  m. 

This  meal  is  the  feature  of  the  day  in  a  social  as  well  as 
in  a  semibusiness  way,  as  it  affords  an  opportunity  for  nearly 
all  business  people  to  meet,  and  over  their  wine,  fish  and  coffee, 
discuss  matters  of  business.  An  hour  or  two  are  usually  con- 
sumed around  each  table. 

After  breakfast,  a  siesta  in  the  hammock  accompanied  by 
cigarettes,  and  if  too  much  wine  has  been  used,  perhaps  a  nap 
follows. 


148  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL    IN    AMAZONIA. 

My  habit  was  to  visit  the  consulate  for  an  hour  or  so  in 
the  afternoon  to  look  after  any  routine  business.  The  consulate 
windows  overlooked  the  bay.  About  four  o'clock  each  day  a 
stiff  breeze  would  come  in  as  a  reminder  of  the  approaching 
storm ;  looking  down  the  Amazon,  toward  the  mouth,  we  could 
see  the  black,  funnel  shaped  cloud,  sailing  up  from  the  Atlantic. 

Then  I  would  have  to  hustle  around  to  lock  up  the  books 
and  papers,  grab  my  coat  and  hat  and  umbrella  and  have  a  race 
up  the  narrow  street  to  my  hotel,  before  the  storm  cloud  would 
burst. 

It  never  rains,  but  it  pours  in  Para.  In  what  they  term  their 
summer  season  these  "showers"  last  only  a  half  hour  or  so,  but 
more  water  falls  in  one  minute  there  than  we  usually  get  in  an 
hour.  Nobody  knows  what  the  rainfall  of  Para  would  measure. 
It  is  a  drenching  sheet  of  water,  instead  of  a  sprinkling. 

These  evening  rains  are,  however,  a  good  sanitary  feature. 
The  floods  cleanse  the  streets  and  sewage,  besides  making  it  de- 
lightfully refreshing  for  an  evening  walk  or  ride  after  dinner, 
which  is  served  about  six  o'clock. 

The  dinners,  though  very  good  in  kind,  are  not  as  formal 
in  the  way  of  a  daily  social  gathering  as  are  the  breakfasts. 

This  arises  from  the  fact  that  a  majority  of  the  foreign 
business  people  live  in  bachelor  quarters  in  the  suburb  of  Naza- 
reth, taking  their  early  coffee  at  the  house  before  coming  down 
town.  After  the  transaction  of  the  morning  business  not  only 
the  foreigners,  but  a  majority  of  native  merchants  assemble  at 
the  various  hotels  or  cafes  for  breakfast,  it  being  too  hot  in  the 
middle  of  the  day  to  go  to  their  homes,  and  the  practise  also 
relieves  their  families  of  the  burden  of  preparing  a  meal  at  that 
hour. 

The  breakfast  room  at  the  Central  was  usually  well  filled 
from  eleven  a.  m.  to  one  p.  m.  with  that  portion  of  the  business 
people  who  may  be  called  the  leaders,  both  foreign  and  native. 

An  American  dropping  into  the  rooms  at  that  time  would 
imagine  himself   suddenly  transported   to   Demonico's,   of   New 


YELLOW  FEVER.  149 

York,  or  the  Monico  of  Piccadilly  Circus,  or  perhaps  one  of  the 
many  cafes  of  the  Boulevard  des  Italiens  in  Paris. 

No  ladies  ever  appear  at  the  hotels  or  restaurants.  The  cus- 
tomers are  all  gentlemen  of  the  better  class.  One  table  was  re- 
served for  a  few  Americans  and  Germans ;  another  immediately 
opposite  was  occupied  entirely  by  Brazilians  who  talked  only 
Portugese,  and  so  on  the  cliques  or  sets  got  together  all  through 
the  large  room. 

A  table  in  the  corridor  was  set  for  the  managers  of  the 
English  banks,  along  with  whom  one  American  was  usually 
seated.  As  this  table  was  directly  in  front  of  my  room  door, 
I  was  forced  to  overhear  a  great  deal  of  their  spicy  breakfast 
table  talk,  while  lying  in  my  hammock  in  my  own  room  enjoying 
my  siesta.  Some  of  this  gossip  would  make  interesting  reading 
for  this  narrative.  The  "Consul  Americano"  was,  as  usual,  cut 
to  pieces  or  swallowed  whole  and  digested  with  liberal  draughts 
of  wine  and  Pousse  cafe. 

It  seems  that  some  way  or  other  I  had  the  misfortune  to 
have  kept  these  people  well  stirred  up  during  all  of  my  incum- 
bency. This  clique  were  the  leaders  in  the  attempted  boycott 
during  my  first  days,  and  being  accustomed  to  having  matters 
arranged  in  Para  according  to  their  dictum,  they  were  never  quite 
able  to  understand  why  the  newly  arrived  American  did  not  or 
would  not  be  made  to  fall  into  their  lines. 

Everybody  drinks  wine  with  his  meals  in  Para,  usually  a 
Portuguese  claret,  of  a  fair  quality  known  as  collaris,  though 
many  prefer  the  French  burgundies  or  Bordeaux. 

A  bottle  of  wine  is  always  set  to  each  plate  according  to 
order,  an  extra  charge  of  from  800  to  1500  reis  being  charged 
for  about  a  quart,  which,  with  the  usual  dilution  with  water,  will 
answer  for  two  or  three  meals. 

Some  prefer  Apollinaris  with  the  wine  instead  of  water. 
For  this  a  charge  is  made  equal  to  the  cost  of  the  wine. 

Enormous  quantities  of  Apollinaris  and  other  mineral  waters 
are  consumed,  all  of  which  come  from  Europe. 


ISO  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL    IX    AMAZONIA. 

Here  would  be  a  fine  field  for  the  introduction  of  California 
clarets  and  American  mineral  waters. 

A  piece  of  gelot  (pronounced  jay-lo)  or  ice,  the  size  of 
the  thumb  adds  three  hundred  reis  to  the  cost  to  each  glass  of 
wine  and  water,  and  for  each  duplication  of  gelot  an  additional 
charge  is  made. 

In  early  days  ice  came  from  the  United  States  as  part  of  a 
return  cargo  of  the  English  ship.  Good  ice  machines  are  now 
installed  in  Para,  as  well  as  in  other  sections  of   Amazonia. 

The  French  proprietor,  who  sits  on  a  high  stool  behind  a 
little  desk  in  a  corner,  does  not  do  much  talking  or  bossing  of  his 
waiters,  but  keeps  his  eyes  open  and  never  fails  to  note  an  extra 
of  any  kind,  so  that  one's  long  bill  at  the  end  of  the  month  is 
a  succession  of  "gelots,"  "Apollinaris,"  "vichy,"  "cervajes" 
(sirvayshu  or  beer),  which  foots  up  in  from  six  to   ten  figures. 

I  was  startled  when  I  asked  for  my  account  and  found  it 
a  total  of  320$O0O.*  For  an  instant  I  was  so  taken  aback  that 
I  wondered  if  I  had  been  drugged  with  wine  and  had  uncon- 
sciously staked  this  amount  in  gambling  somewhere  that  I  could 
not  remember. 

I  appealed  to  Monsieur  George,  the  proprietor,  to  let  me 
off  easy.     He  laughed  heartily,  saying  in  broken  English : 

"That  is  much  good  for  me,  senhor  consul.  That  is  good 
for  me." 

It  amounted  to  something  over  a  hundred  dollars,  but  in- 
cluded everything  in  the  way  of  living,  baths,  lights  and  the 
accommodations.  Proprietor  had  paid  my  laundry,  servant,  extra 
suppers,  theater  tickets  and  other  little  bills  that  were  attached 
to  the  hotel  life  of  the  "Consul  Americano."  Each  item  of 
expense  was  carefully  enumerated. 

These  receipted  bills  I  was  in  the  habit  of  sending  to  the 
department  at  Washington,  with  my  regular  requests  to  be  re- 
lieved before  I  should  get  into  debt  by  trying  to  live  on  the  salary. 

*  Brazil  is  a  gold-standard  country — its  unit  being  a  milreis.  having 
a  gold  value  of  54  6/10  cents.  The  dollar  mark  means  milreis.  320$ooo 
therefore  equals  $174,62   American   gold. 


YELLOW  FEVER.  151 

I  usually  dressed  both  for  breakfast  and  dinner  to  the 
extent  of  changing  my  linen,  which  is  frequently  necessary  in 
that  perspiring  latitude. 

One  of  the  tables  in  the  salle  a  manger  was  occupied  by  a 
number  of  second  rate  Englishmen. 

These  were  clerks  or,  as  they  say  it,  clarks,  in  the  banks,  or 
English  firms,  or  companies.  One  or  two  had  been  steam  en- 
gineers on  board  the  Amazon  companies  boats,  and  being  recently 
elevated  to  positions  of  superintendents  or  managers,  they 
became  quite  important  in  their    own  estimation. 

It  is  a  fact  worthy  of  note,  that  an  English  manager  or 
banker  or  bookkeeper  will  never  be  found  associating  with  his 
"clarks." 

They  bring  their  peculiar  notions  of  caste  from  the  old 
country. 

This  was  one  of  the  customs  that  I  did  not  at  first  under- 
stand, and  perhaps  I  made  some  mistakes  in  the  eyes  of  the 
managers,  by  associating  at  the  different  tables  with  anybody 
whom  I  thought  to  be  agreeable  without  any  regard  to  the  position 
he  held  in  somebody's  office. 

I  found  a  couple  of  young  Englishmen  most  congenial  asso- 
ciates wnth  whom  I  made  some  interesting  social  explorations, 
in  a  direction  that  I  could  not  reach  alone.  There  are  always 
exceptions.  Some  of  the  best  people  I  knew  in  Para  were  Eng- 
lishmen. 

On  the  other  hand,  there  were  seated  at  my  table  one  Sun- 
day, a  party  of  these  second  rate  English,  who  under  the  influence 
of  their  weekly  allowance  of  wine  on  a  Sunday's  dinner,  thought 
to  have  a  little  fun  among  themselves  by  "guying"  the  American. 

That  which  seems  to  hurt  an  Englishman  most  is  the  fact 
that  we  permit  an  Irishman  to  exist  in  America.  The  burden  of 
their  talk  seemed  to  be  directed  against  the  Irish-American. 

One  cockney  made  himself  offensive  by  some  remarks  in  a 
nasal  tone  which  rather  irritated  me ;  not  that  it  was  intended 
to  mimic  myself,  for  I  do  not  talk  in  that  way,  but  I  felt  annoyed 


152  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

by  the  laughter  his  effort  provoked  in  the  crowd  about  us,  and 
under  the  spur  of  the  moment,  I  stooped  to  their  level  and  in 
an  imitative  way  quietly  observed,  so  those,  around  could  hear: 

"America  don't  pretend  to  be  much,  don't  you  know,  because 
we  are  descended  from  the  English  ;  but  a  little  Irish,  German 
and  French  blood  has  improved  our  race  somewhat. 

"We  have  had  some  skirmishes  in  the  way  of  wars  in  our 
brief  history  and  were  never  yet  defeated  as  a  nation.  Our 
mother  country  has  often  been  whipped.  In  fact,  we  have  had 
two  wars  with  the  English  ourselves  and  we  whipped  'em  both 
times."  Here  was  a  sensation,  caused  by  one  of  them  inter- 
posing an  objection.  I  continued  quietly,  as  I  raised  my  glass 
carelessly:  "We  whipped  you  both  times,  and  we  would  have 
done  it  a  third  time  if  you  all  had  not  got  down  on  your  knees 
and  begged  off  and  paid  us  tons  of  gold  indemnity  for  your 
cowardly  attacks  on  our  helpless  mariners  when  we  were  thrash- 
ing our  own  unruly  brethren." 

This  climax  raised  a  sensation.  Everybody  expected  to  see 
a  row,  but  there  was  no  effort  in  that  direction. 

The  Englishmen  were  conquered  and  became  suddenly  quiet, 
only  one  of  them  attempting  to  reply  by  assenting  that  my  state- 
ments were  incorrect ;  but  I  retorted,  "It's  a  matter  of  history," 
and  all  those  Brazilian  gentlemen  know  it  to  be  true. 

"Yes,  American  history,"  retorted  the  English. 

"No;  it's  the  history  of  the  period  known  all  over  the  world," 
I  replied. 

"The  trouble  is  that  you  Englishmen  know  nothing  outside 
of  the  insular  confines  of  your  own  country." 

If  there  is  any  one  thing  that  I  as  an  American  deprecate 
it  is  the  habit  of  m.ost  Americans  who  go  abroad  to  boast  in  loud 
tones,  in  season  and  out  of  season  of  the  acknowledged  greatness 
of  our  country.  One  will  hear  too  much  of  this  spreadeaglefsm 
from  his  countrymen  in  other  lands,  and  it  is  also  to  be  regretted 
that  some  American  residents  in  foriegn  lands  are  not  a  credit 
to  their  country. 


Dr.    Augusto   Ols'inpio   de    Araujo    c    Sousa, 
Secretario    Estadas  Interior. 


YELLOW  FEVER.  153 

I  made  it  an  object  to  refrain  from  any  discussions  of  my 
citizenship  with  a  foreigner.  I  regretted  this  incident  and  apol- 
ogized to  the  extent  of  saying  that  they  had  brought  it  on  by 
their  action. 

When  an  Englishman  is  worsted  he  is  generally  man  enough 
to  accept  the  situation  gracefully.  I  was  never  after  this  "guyed" 
on  my  Americanism. 

It  became  a  regular  custom  with  me  to  ride  horsebacjc  every 
alternate  evening  when  the  weather  permitted,  in  company  with 
my  Brazilian  friends.  Being  an  old  cavalryman  of  the  regular 
army  I  enjoyed  the  exercise  heartily,  especially  as  it  afforded 
me  more  favorable  opportunities  for  getting  all  around  that  part 
of  the  country  which  might  not  be  reached  other  than  on  horse- 
back. 

I  rode  a  fine  little  black  Hambletonian  American  horse  that 
had  been  especially  trained  to  the  saddle,  using  as  nearly  as  I 
could  procure  it,  the  equipment  of  the  American  trooper,  or 
cowboy,  in  the  way  of  a  swell  Spanish  saddle  and  trimmings, 
long  stirrups,  spurs,  etc. 

I  always  dressed  for  the  outing  in  close  fitting  trousers  and 
leather  leggins,  military  blouse  fitting  snugly,  a  fatigue  cap  or 
soft  felt  French  hat  with  turned  up  brim,  white  dog  skin  gloves, 
which  by  the  way  never  seemed  to  soil  in  that  atmosphere,  and 
invariably  a  red  silk  Custer  neck  tie,  the  same  as  those  worn 
when  I  rode  with  the  gallant  general's  staff,  which  was  the  dis- 
tinctive badge  of  his  division  in  the  Army  of  the  Potomac. 

My  companion  was  also  appropriately  attired  as  a  Brazilian 
senhor,  who  rode  in  a  dignified  style  a  large  American  bay.  We 
both  enjoyed  to  the  fullest  extent  each  other's  companionship 
during  many  pleasant  evenings  for  many  months,  covering  in 
this  way  under  the  Brazilian's  guidance  the  entire  country  about 
Para,  which  but  few  other  foreigners  have  seen  as  I  did  from 
the  saddle. 

Naturally  we  became  familiar  figures  in  the  town,  and  it 
would  be  unbecoming  to  say  that  we  did  not  attract  the  attention 
we  desired. 


154  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

I  do  not  pretend  to  be  a  skilled  horseman,  but  having  as 
a  boy  ridden  wild  mustangs  on  my  uncle's  ranches  in  western 
Texas.  I  could  ride  any  animal  safely.  My  military  cradle  was 
a  dragoon  saddle  in  our  regular  army  service. 

I  did  not  ride  like  an  Englishman  and  I  was  proud  of  the 
fact  that  my  cowboy  style  was  favorably  commented  upon  by 
the  Brazilian  horsemen. 

An  American  cavalryman  does  all  his  riding  with  his  left 
hand  immediately  in  his  front,  the  finger  nails  turned  up  and 
never  using  the  right  hand  at  all,  nor  speaking  to  a  horse  except 
with  the  spurs. 

We  always  managed  in  some  way  to  steer  or  gallop  through 
the  aristocratic  residence  estrada  Nazareth,  and  I  believe  that 
we  never  rode  along  that  way  without  encountering  the  pretty 
brown  eyes  of  the  baron's  daughter,  who  would  usually  be  found 
promenading  with  her  set  at  about  that  hour  every  evening. 

The  ladies,  as  a  rule,  do  not  ride  much  in  northern  Brazil, 
although  I  was  told  the  habit  is  common  in  the  adjoining  state  of 
Ceara. 

One  of  the  greatest  compliments  I  ever  heard  paid  to  an 
old  soldier  came  from  a  little  lady  when  invited  to  ride  with  an 
old  boy  who  expected  as  a  reply  only  a  hearty  laugh,  when  she 
sweetly  said : 

"Why,  certainly,  why,  of  course,  I  will  be  glad  to  be  escorted 
by  a  soldier  who  had  really  ridden  a  horse  in  a  battle." 


CHAPTER   XV. 

A    TALK    WITH    THE   GOVERNOR   ON    LEPROSY. 
THE  UNIQUE  ISLAND  OF   MARAJO. 

|ITH  a  view  to  create  prejudice  among  the 

natives,   and   of   embarrassing   me,   a   few 

disgruntled  persons  of  the  foreign  colony 

had   influenced  a    Para   paper   to  publish 

\      ^^w|jj  U  -^Z^A      an  exaggerated  account  of  my  reports  on 

'  r\>-li«  1      ^"^W     leprosy. 

This,    with   other   misrepresentations, 
had  been  brought  to  the  attention  of  the 
Para  government  and  the  Rio  newspapers. 

The  governor  kindly  invited  me  to  his  house,  wherein  we 
talked  the  matter  over  in  an  unofficial  way,  during  which  it  was 
freely  conceded  that,  although  leprosy  existed,  it  was  not  con- 
sidered contagious  or  infectious.  Moreover,  the  missionary  from 
whom  I  had  obtained  my  data  had  probably  exaggerated  in  this, 
as  he  had  in  other  matters  relating  to  life  in  Para. 

This  pleasant  informal  talk  of  an  hour  convinced  me  that 
there  was  much  prejudice,  or  at  least  unchristian  charity,  in  the 
zeal  of  the  missionary. 

The  diplomatic  talk  with  the  governor  resulted  in  the  conclu- 
sion that,  even  if  it  were  true,  it  was  not  good  policy  to  ventilate 
the  disagreeable  subject  through  official  reports  and  press  corre- 
spondence. 

When  I  advised  the  missionary  that  his  statements  had  been 
discredited,  he  renewed  his  efforts  and  I  must  admit  supplied 
some  additional  data,  fully  establishing  his  former  statements. 

I  did  not  persue  the  matter,  but  sent  data  to  the  department 
for  filing,  where  the  untold  story  may  be  learned  by  those  in- 
vestigating the  subject  of  leprosy. 


156  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

As  previously  indicated,  the  British  government  was  inter- 
ested in  this  discussion  of  leprosy  contagion,  sending  commis- 
sions to  both  India  and  Para.  The  British  consul's  son,  a  medical 
man,  was  on  the  commission  to  Para.  I  believe  their  conclusions 
were  that  this  plague  is  not  necessarily  contagious. 

The  island  of  Marajo,  near  Para,  is  interesting  in  a  pictur- 
esque and  historic  way. 

There  are  no  aboriginal  Marajo  natives,  those  that  live  on 
the  island  now  being  settlers  from  the  main  land. 

A  quantity  of  ancient  pottery  has  been  found,  most  of  which 
is  of  an  interesting  character  for  the  collector.  These  finds  in- 
dicate conclusively  that  Marajo  was  at  one  time  thickly  settled. 

Marajo  is  remarkable  in  many  respects.  Though  closely 
allied  to  the  mainland  on  either  side  of  the  rushing  Amazon,  it 
has  an  entirely  different  climate  and  in  some  respects  a  changed 
topography,  as  well  as  odd  flora. 

There  are  no  rains  on  Marajo  from  August  to  January.  Dur- 
ing this  dry  season  the  grass  is  burned  by  the  natives  in  place  of 
being  harvested.  The  cattle,  while  the  grass  is  growing,  collect 
at  the  ravines  which  lead  from  the  great  lake  to  the  river,  along 
which  trees  grow  affording  shelter  from  the  hot  sun. 

The  flat  lands  or  savanas  of  the  island  are  called  in  Portu- 
guese fazendas,  in  Spanish  haciendas.  Here  great  numbers  of 
cattle  are  herded,  just  as  in  the  ranches  or  plains  of  our  West. 

During  my  time  in  Amazonia  a  peculiar  disease  prevailed 
among  the  cattle  on  the  island.  It  was  called  guebrabunda,  the 
strange  plague  attacking  as  many  as  thirty  thousand  head  in  one 
season.  They  were  affected  by  a  weakening  of  the  spine,  causing 
a  breaking  down  of  the  hind  legs.  The  animals  seemed  to  lose 
entire  control  of  those  parts,  and  thus,  becoming  helpless,  they 
perished  by  thousands. 

Pasteur,  of  Paris,  sent  one  of  his  pupils  out  to  Marajo  to 
make  a  study  of  the  disease,  which  crippled  the  cattle  quite  like 
beriberi  did  humanity. 


THE  ISLAND  OF  MARAJO.  157 

The  finest  of  birds  and  animals  are  found  on  the  island  in 
the  greatest  numbers.  Parrakeets  are  as  common  and  quite  as 
noisy  as  our  blackbirds,  and  gather  in  large  flocks.  They  are 
caught  by  the  natives,  who  build  fires  under  their  roosts  at  night, 
the  dense  smoke  causing  the  birds  to  fall  into  their  hands  in 
large  numbers. 

Parrots  fly  high.  These  birds  are  hunted  as  game,  the  gun- 
ners eating  the  birds.  Flamingoes  are  plentiful,  as  also  every 
variety  of  herons,  with  their  immense  necks  and  small  bodies, 
their  plumage  as  white  as  snow,  or  as  red  as  fire,  or  a  tasteful 
combination  of  all  colors.  From  a  species  of  these  herons  is 
procured  the  fine  aigret  feathers  of  commerce,  which  our  ladies 
wear  with  their  ostrich  plumes.  A  great  quantity  of  these  feathers 
is  sent  from  the  Amazon  to  New  York. 

I  was  fortunate  in  securing  some  of  the  very  finest  speci- 
mens of  rare  aigrets,  which  I  sent  to  numerous  lady  friends. 

They  are  valued  at  about  $25.00  per  ounce.  A  couple  of 
young  Americans  from  North  Carolina  were  regularly  engaged 
gunning  in  Marajo,  making  a  business  of  hunting  these  birds  for 
their  plumage,  which  they  shipped  to  the  United  States  at  con- 
siderable profit.  I  made  their  acquaintance  through  their  being 
detected  in  smuggling  them  through  mail  packages. 

Immediately  opposite  the  city,  though  some  miles  distant,  is 
a  cluster  of  islands  that  look  as  pretty  as  a  bouquet  or  an  oasis 
of  green  foliage  in  a  vast  expanse  of  water. 

Marajo  is  some  distance  beyond  this.  Another  large  sheet 
of  water,  known  as  Marajo  Bay,  which  is  sometimes  quite  rough, 
must  be  crossed  before  the  beautiful  island  is  reached. 

The  native  or  Portuguese  boatmen,  and  they  are  numerous 
and  skilful,  make  the  ferriage  with  their  small  boats  with  the 
peculiar  shaped  and  gracefully  spread  yellow  or  greased  canvas 
sails. 

A  number  of  steam  launches  owned  by  the  wealthier  native 
residents,  who  have  fazendas  on  the  island,  frequently  convey 
select  parties  who  make  jolly  excursion  trips  in  the  night,  sleep- 


158  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

ing  on  board  in  hammocks,  so  as  to  be  on  the  ground  in  the  early 
morning  to  take  the  field  with  their  guns  for  a  few  hours'  sport, 
with  perhaps  tigers,  wild  boars,  and  the  innumerable  varieties  of 
game  and  birds  that  infest  the  island. 

After  one  or  two  experiences  I  avoided  any  further  ad- 
ventures in  this  direction.  Tramping  through  an  Amazonian  for- 
est entails  so  great  an  expenditure  of  energy  that  gunning  is 
robbed  of  its  fascination.  Giant  alligators  and  snakes  as  large 
as  boas  are  numerous,  but  I  really  had  a  greater  dread  of  the 
moqueen  or  tick  than  of  the  wild  animals. 

A  canoe  in  Amazonia  is  entirely  unlike  our  dugouts.  They 
are  modeled  more  after  the  style  of  what  we  call  a  keel  boat,  but 
are  more  graceful,  having  a  high  bow  and  stern,  both  well  out 
of  the  water. 

They  are  double  enders,  like  a  Venetian  gondola  in  appearance. 
Instead  of  the  striped,  gaily  colored  cloth  awnings,  the  Amazon 
gondola  has  a  rounded,  nicely  woven  green  palm  leaf  thatched 
roof  over  the  center.  This  covers  sufficient  space  to  afford  pro- 
tection from  the  hot  sun  during  the  day  and  from  the  rains  at 
night. 

A  great  many  natives  spend  more  than  half  their  lives  in 
the  boats,  which  are  made  as  comfortable  as  the  native  huts  on 
the  shore-  It  was  the  small  craft  of  this  description  that  an 
English  captain  especially  admired  on  account  of  the  beautiful 
form  and  symmetry  of  her  Indian  built  lines.  She  was  bought 
immediately  on  her  arrival  at  Para  and  christened  Roberta.  On 
this  craft  I  enjoyed  many  pleasant  hours. 


CHAPTER    XVI. 


BUSINESS    INTERESTS    IN    PARA. 

HE  life  of  a  consul  in  the  tropics 
is  not  necessarily  the  unhappy  lot 
pictured  in  my  early  experiences, 
which  were  exceptional. 

During  the  days  of  my  revisit  I 
spent  most  of  the  hot  hours  in  the 
cool  office  of  my  friend,  Colonel 
Chermont,  interrupting  his  work,  by 
continually  talking  of  former  days, 
and  as  there  was  much  hilarious 
laughter,  the  inference  was  that  we  were  having  a  good  old 
time,  which  even  the  clerks  in  an  adjoining  room  seemed  to  en- 
joy. 

The  colonel  provided  a  desk  for  my  use  supplied  with  ma- 
terials to  do  some  of  the  long  neglected  work  which  I  am  now 
trying  to  finish,  and  which  he  helped  to  delay  by  his  jollying. 

I  had  thoughtlessly  told  him  of  the  invention  of  the  gin- 
rickey  as  a  cooling  tonic,  and  made  the  further  mistake  of 
teaching  him  how  to  mix  the  insidious  decoction. 

He  procured  the  ingredients,  crushed  ice  in  the  bottom  of  a 
tall  glass,  over  which  was  squeezed  the  lime  juice  and  on  which 
a  gill  of  gin  or  cachaca  was  stirred  while  it  was  filled  with  fizz 
water  and  drank  while  effervescing. 

The  colonel  was  full  of  jolly  talk  and  laughed  heartily  over 
the  fight  I  had  with  the  Para  papers,  which  was  later  transferred 
by  the  same  influence  to  New  York. 

On  the  occasion  of  my  revisits  both  local  papers  published 
a  flattering  notice  of  my  return,  as  noted  by  reproduction  from 
original.     The   Folha  do   Norte   requested  that   I   supply   them 


i6o  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

with  some  account  of  my  impressions,  which  I  am  only  now  trying 
to  fulfil. 

In  the  company  of  the  genial  colonel  I  called  on  the  Folha 
editor.  We  were  especially  well  received  as  brother  newspaper 
friends. 

FOLHA  DO  NORTE— PARA. 


{The  leading  opposition  paper.) 

8  de  julho  de  1908. 

A  bordo  do  vapor  Saturno  segue  para  Manaus  o  major  Joseph  Kirby, 
que  ante-hontem  mesmo,  no  dia  de  sua  chegada,  desembarcou  nesta  capital, 
indo  residir  com  o  consul  americano. 

Na  capital  amazonense  pretende  o  jornalista  yankee  demorar-se  apenas 
algumas  semanas. 

Mr.  Kirby,  em  companhia  do  actual  representante  da  America  do  Norte, 
hontem,  durante  o  dia,  emprehendeu  um  rapido  passeio  pelos  principaes 
bairros  da  cidade,  desejoso  de  ver  o  adeantamento  que  esta  apresenta  depois 
de  sua  ausencia  de  Belem. 

Durante  esse  passeio  teve  o  illustre  viajante  occasiao  de  visitar  antigos 
conhecidos,  do  tempo  em  que  aqui  esteve  na  direcqao  do  consulado  ameri- 
cano, de  onde  se  retirou,  licenciado,  em  1891. 

Substituido  nesse  cargo  por  mr.  Ayres,  que  mais  tarde  teve  como  sub- 
stitute o  sr.   Mathews,  partiu  entao  para  os   Estados-Unidos. 

Apaixonado  pelas  sciencias  naturaes  e  desejoso  de  conhecer  mais  de 
perto  a  Amazonia,  emprehendeu  ainda  em  1891  uma  viagem  com  esse  fim. 

Por  essa  occasiao  teve  ainda  ensejo  de  proceder  a  diversas  exploragoes 
em  Iquitos  e  Muibamba,  seguindo  depois  pelo  Pacifico  a  America  do  Norte. 

Ainda  em  1902  nova  viagem  realizou  a  Amazonia,  ja  para  varios 
estudos,  ja  por  parte  de  capitalistas  particulares. 

Feliz  em  todas  essas  viagens  e  mais  desejoso  de  terminar  outros  trabal- 
hos,  vein  ainda  em  1894,  pelo  Pacifico,  ate  Iquitos. 

Volvendo  aos  Estados,  Unidos,  alii  publicou  em  1906  uma  grande  obra 
a  que  intitulou  "The  Land  of  Tomorrow",  abrangendo  os  seus  estudos  nao 
so  sobre  os  meios  de  exploragao  na  Amazonia,  para  emprego  de  capitaes, 
como  tambem  tudo  quanto  observou  do  movimento  das  pragas  que  per- 
correu,  salientando  qual  fosse  de  futuro  o  progredir  do  seu  commercio. 

A'  vista  da  erudigao  que  demonstrou  e  perfeito  conhecimento  dos 
trabalhos  dados  a  publicidade  na  grande  capital  newyorkina,  nao  falharam 
ao  velho  e  competente  investigador  recompensas  ao  seu  esforgo  trabalho. 


BUSINESS  INTERESTS  IN  PARA.  i6i 

Tcndo  ainda,  nessas  longas  viagens,  quasi  todas  cheias  de  difficuldades, 
na  propria  navegacao  que,  por  vezes,  ora  obrigado  a  fazcr  em  canoas,  con- 
seguido  marcar  o  final  da  vasante  no  porto  de  Iquitos  e  no  rio  Muibamba, 
com  documentos  e  cartas  por  si  levantadas,  a  "Royal  Geographical  Society 
of  Londres",  houve  por  bem  conferir  a  mr.  Kirby  o  titulo  de  seu  socio, 
distincgao  raramente  concedida  por  essa  grande  associagao  de  lettrados. 

Sem  de  todo  ter  abandonado  a  carreira  consular,  mas  da  qual  continua 
afastado  por  effeito  de  licenga,  o  nosso  illustre  hospede  passou  sempre  a 
exercer  a  sua  actividade  nas  grandes  folhas  de  Londres  e  New- York  e  tam- 
bem  co-operando  com  vantagem  no  "The  Washington  Herald"  e  no  "The 
International  Bureau  of  the  American  Republics". 

Tratou  largamente  de  fazer  conhecido  o  Brasil  em  todas  as  suas  linhas 
na  grande  nagao  americana,  organizando  e  compendiando  varias  publicagoes 
para  ser  editada  pelo  "Bulletin  da  Internacional  Bureau". 

A  viagem  que  ao  presente  faz  a  Amazonia  a  major  Kirby,  alem  do 
objecto  de  seus  estudos,  tera  o  fim  especial  de  conhecer  do  novo  progresso 
industrial  e  commercial.  Procurara  no  decorrer  da  sua  visita  examinar  as 
condigoes  para  o  emprego  de  capitaes  yankees. 

A  estrada  Madeira-Mamore  tambem  muito  interessara  s.  s.  pelo  lado 
do  desenvolvimento  que  possa  ella  offerecer  em  toda  a  sua  organizagao. 

Mr.  Kirby,  ao  que  nos  referiu,  de  Manaus  volvera  de  novo  ao  Para 
daqui  seguindo  para  o  Maranhao,  Ceara,  Pernambuco,  Bahia  e  Rio. 

Ahi  demorar-se-a  o  tempo  necessario  para  visitar  a  proxima  exposiqao 
nacional,  afim  de  enviar  para  alguns  jornes,  de  que  tronxe  representagao, 
as  suas  impressoes. 

Foi  mr.  Kirby  portador  para  o  sr.  consul  americano  de  diversos  volumes 
do  livro  que  sobre  sua  viagem  ao  Brasil  e  outras  Republicas  editou  o  anno 
passado  o  estadista  americano  Elihu  Root,  ende  se  econtram  enfeixados 
OS  discursos  proferidos  em  todas  as  festas  realizadas  em  honra  aquelle 
illustra  diplomata. 

No  consulado  americano,  por  uma  especial  gentileza  de  mr.  Pickerell, 
tivemos  occasiao  de  ver  dois  grandes  mappas  do  Brasil,  annotados  e  corrig- 
idos  por  parte  da  "Internacional  Bureau",  que,  nos  affirmou  o  major  Kirby, 
presentemente  sao  os  mais  correctos. 

Ainda  outro  mappa  recebeu  o  representante  da  America  do  Norte,  da 
republica  da  Bolivia,  tendo  discriminado  todo  o  territorio  do  Acre. 

E'  possivel  que  hoje,  em  caracter  particular,  mr.  Kirby  visite  os  srs. 
governador  do  Estado  e  intendente  de  Belem. 

*  *  *  Devido  a  uma  gentileza  do  competente  escriptor,  publicaremos 
amanha  um  trabalho,  ja  traduzido,  que  sobre  as  riquezas  do  Brasil  publicou 
no  "The  Washington  Herald". 


l62  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

The  consul,  Mr.  Pickerell,  accompanied  me  on  a  formal 
call  on  the  editor  of  the  Provincia  do  Para,  the  leading  paper 
of  northern  Brazil,  and  we  were  entertained  in  the  parlor  of 
their  fine  building. 

It  was  a  great  privilege  to  have  an  interview  with  the  prom- 
inent Dr.  Lemos,  an  acknowledged  leader  of  the  government 
party,  an  account  of  which,  with  an  illustration  of  their  build- 
ing, was  printed  in  the  Bulletin  of  the  International  Bureau  of 
the  American  Republics,  April,  1909,  in  my  article  on  Para,  which 
may  be  had  on  request  of  that  Bureau. 

Provincia  do  Para,  de  July  8,   1908. 

NOSSOS    HOSPEDES. 


Um  journalista  "yankee"  em  Belem. 

Acha-se  a  bordo  do  paquete  nacional  Goyaz,  procedente  de 
New- York,  o  major  Joseph  O.  Kirby,  representante  especial  do 
Boletim  de  Bureau  Internacional  das  Republicas  Americanas. 
O  major  Kirby,  que  ha  cerca  de  quinze  annos  exerceu  o  cargo 
de  consul  dos  Estados-Unidos  da  America  do  Norte  no  Para,  e 
um  cavalheiro  distincto  e  apreciado  intellectual. 

Conhecedor  do  Brazil,  do  qual  se  confessa  devotado 
amigo,  vem  s.  s.  fazer  importantes  estudos  nos  Estados  do 
Para,  Amazonas,  Pernambuco,  Bahia  e  Rio  de  Janeiro. 

E'  provavel  que  hoje  desembarque  para  aguardar  a  pas- 
sagem  de  um  vapor  que  0  conduza  a  Manaus. 

Alem  do  Boletim  do  Bureau,  que  se  publica  mensalmente 
em  Washington,  representa  ainda  o  Daily  Consular  and  Trade 
Reports. 

Para  ambos  escrevera  o  major  Kirby,  tratando  do  nesso 
progresso  e  desenvolvimento  commercial,  mesmo  porque  o  in- 
tuito  d'essas  publicagoes  visa  o  interesse  e  a  expansao  commer- 
cial dos  paizes  da  America  e  consequente  permuta  de  productos. 

No  Rio  de  Janeiro  o  ]ornalista  yankee  representara  mais 
outros  periodicos  norte-americanos,  para  os  quaes  cnviara 
minuciosas  noticias  referentes  a  Exposiqao  Nacional. 


BUSINESS  INTERESTS  IN  PARA.  163 

With  a  view  of  preserving  the  sequence  in  this  narrative,  I 
follow  my  original  manuscript,  even  in  its  abruptness,  realizing 
that  there  may  be  some  repetition. 

It  was  unfortunate  for  me  that  it  fell  to  my  lot  to  take  the 
place  of  a  gentleman  who  possessed  the  happy  faculty  of  making 
himself  personally  popular  with  the  large  number  of  congenial 
foreign  spirits  who  resided  at  Para.  My  illustrious  predecessor 
could  play  a  better  game  and  was  decidedly  more  popular  as  a 
good  fellow  than  his  successor. 

No  intimation  had  been  given  me  at  Washington,  before  leav- 
ing for  the  post,  of  any  opposition  to  the  change.  Protest  had 
been  cabled  from  Para  against  a  change,  even  the  Senate  being 
appealed  to,  to  prevent  my  confirmation.  I  realized  that  I  was 
in  Para  in  obedience  to  instructions,  on  the  President's  appoint- 
ment, endorsed  by  Secretary  Blaine  and  my  State  senators. 

My  commission  was  sufficient  in  the  way  of  letters  of  recom- 
mendation to  respectable  and  responsible  persons. 

It  was  again  unfortunate  that  I  was  not  of  that  happy  tem- 
perament that  could  turn  the  other  cheek,  especially  when  slapped 
in  the  face  by  foreigners,  for  no  other  offense  than  that  of  being 
the  new  United  States  consul. 

I  felt,  as  an  American  citizen  and  an  old  soldier,  that  I  should 
do  my  duty  and  fight  it  out  on  the  line  of  the  equator,  where 
every  day  of  the  year  is  a  summer  day. 

Therefore,  in  more  respects  than  one,  Para  continued  to  be 
a  hot  place  for  me,  although  I  am  happy  to  add  the  evenings  were 
pleasant,  because  I  essayed  to  enjoy  myself  in  the  congenial  at- 
mosphere of  first  class  Brazilian  society. 

Literally,  I  accepted  the  situation  as  I  found  it.  When  it 
subsequently  became  evident  that  I  should  be  able  to  get  along 
alone,  independently  of  outside  assistance,  a  number  of  foreigners, 
no  doubt  feeling  ashamed  of  their  first  exhibition  of  smallness, 
were  disposed  to  make  friendly  advances,  tendering  their  sym- 
pathies in  a  private  way. 


i64  AN   AMERICAN    CONSUL    IN    AMAZONIA. 

I  received  numerous  invitations  to  call  at  the  offices  or  houses 
of  foreigners.  During  my  first  year's  residence  I  had  not  entered 
the  house  or  office  of  a  foreign  merchant,  not  even  an  American, 
excepting  always  that  of  the  British  consulate. 

The  courteous  English  Consul,  Mr.  E.  Kauthack,  was  from 
the  first  in  sympathy  with  his  American  colleague,  and  for  his 
manifold  kindnesses  and  good  counsel  I  am  under  lasting  obli- 
gations. 

Though  the  English  consul  for  many  years,  he  was  born  in 
northern  Germany,  having  spent  nearly  all  his  life  in  Brazil,  be- 
coming a  naturalized  Englishman  in  order  to  accept  the  important 
position  of  manager  for  a  steamship  company. 

This  English  consul  also  suffered  even  more  severely  than 
did  the  American  consul,  from  an  attempt  of  the  same  cabal  to 
have  him  dismissed,  because  he  had,  upon  the  proclamation  of  the 
republic,  written  a  letter  of  congratulation  to  the  governor  of  the 
state. 

A  petition  signed  by  all  the  English  residents  of  the  place, 
demanding  his  removal,  was  sent  through  the  consulate  to  the 
foreign  office  in  London. 

The  British  consul's  brief  explanations  accompanying  the 
numerously  signed  protest  were  more  potent  than  the  united  in- 
fluence of  the  cabal,  and  the  request  was  denied  and  the  natural- 
ized German-Englishman  retained  his  office. 

But  few  Americans  travel  in  that  part  of  South  America,  and 
none  remain  longer  than  actually  necessary  except  in  a  business 
way. 

In  discussing  this  matter  with  a  courteous  young  Englishman, 
the  manager  of  a  branch  of  a  large  banking  establishment  in 
Brazil,  he  good  naturedly  chaft"ed  me  by  the  pertinent  query,  "I 
say,  consul,  what's  good  that  ever  comes  from  America?"  "Noth- 
ing," I  replied.  "All  the  good  stays  there.  It's  the  bad  that 
escapes  and  finds  refuge  here.  Nothing  can  compensate  re- 
spectable Americans  for  an  enforced  residence  in  this  land,  not 
even  a  consulate." 


BUSINESS  INTERESTS  IN  PARA.  165 

It  is  entirely  different  with  the  EngUshmen  and  the  Germans. 
Their  countries  are  small  by  comparison  with  ours,  and  there 
are  fewer  possibilities  for  a  young  man  at  home,  so  that  they  are 
obliged  to  emigrate  to  other  lands.  It  must  be  conceded  that 
the  young  Englishmen  and  Germans  who  are  there  to  stay  are 
of  the  better  class. 

Fortunes  have  been  made  and  lost  in  that  country. 

The  business  is  largely  speculative.  There  have  been  ten 
liquidations  of  American  firms  in  as  many  years,  resulting  prob- 
ably from  a   disposition  to  overreach  legitimate  limits. 

The  European  houses  in  Para  are  conservatively  managed 
and  become  permanently  established.  A  couple  of  the  more  prom- 
inent English  and  German  houses  have  been  doing  a  profitable 
trade  for  upward  of  fifty  years. 

As  a  rule,  the  American  starts  in  to  rush  things  on  too  large 
a  scale,  but  he  soon  realizes  that  American  business  methods 
cannot  be  applied  to  that  hot   climate. 

A  great  many  obtain  the  impression  that  any  effort  to  out- 
cheat  a  Brazilian  or  native  is  legitimate  business.  Some  few 
succeed  in  this  at  the  start,  but  any  one  attempting  to  outdo  a 
Portuguese  Jew  in  a  close  transaction  will  come  in  on  the  home 
run  a  full  length  behind,  every  time. 

It  is,  therefore,  advisable  in  the  commercial  ethics  of  Ama- 
zonia to  mix  business  integrity  with  reciprocity. 

In  the  course  of  my  experience  it  developed  that  several 
persons  who  had  lived  some  years  in  Para,  where  they  were  recog- 
nized as  Germans,  and  who  claimed  protection  as  naturalized 
Americans,  only  presented  their  papers  after  being  arrested  by 
the  Brazilian  authorities  on  criminal  charges. 

One  or  two  instances  were  brought  to  my  notice  by  such 
persons  requesting  the  official  influence  of  the  consul.  I  was 
careful  not  to  become  entangled  in  any  way  with  the  Brazilian 
courts.  Declining  to  interfere  I  naturally  encountered  the  hos- 
tility of  these  renegades. 


l66  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

One  of  the  number  of  temporary  American  citizens  of  this 
class  was  a  German-American  of  an  enterprising  character,  who 
had  been  disappointed  in  his  efforts  to  bring  about  a  business 
boom  through  visiting  New  York,  where  he  had  some  Brazihan 
currency  counterfeited,  which  might  easily  have  been  put  in  cir- 
culation in  Para,  as  their  own  paper  money  is  of  an  inferior 
quality,  and  anything  resembling  money  passes  readily  in  Brazil. 

Another  prominent  business  representative  of  an  American 
firm  had  secretly  sold  his  birthright  for  a  mess  of  pottage,  be- 
coming a  Brazilian  citizen  in  order  to  protect  his  American  prin- 
cipals' interests  in  a  questionable  business  transaction  involving 
confiscation  if  found  out. 

The  person  who  had  been  recognized  as  the  vice-consul  of 
the  United  States,  for  some  years  previous  to  my  arrival,  was 
also  the  representative  of  a  well  known  New  York  capitalist 
merchant  and  politician,  and  had  been  the  defendant  in  a  criminal 
suit  brought  by  the  State  authorities  on  the  serious  charge  of 
having  been  engaged  in  defrauding  the  Brazilian  custom  house 
of  import  duties. 

As  this  vice-consul  and  intimate  associate  of  the  consul  had 
access  to  the  books,  invoices  and  other  records,  it  will  be  seen 
that  the  United  States  Consulate  itself  was  not  above  suspicion. 

It  is  needless  to  add  that,  in  doing  what  I  knew  to  be  my 
duty,  I  again  added  to  the  number  of  enemies  who  were  still 
employed  in  stirring  up  the  fire  to  roast  the  uncongenial  consul. 
I  thus  supplied  the  fuel  for  my  own  roasting. 

One  of  the  requirements  of  the  regulations  is  that  a  new 
consul  may  appoint  a  vice,  preference  being  given  to  American 
citizens  who  may  be  residents  of  the  port,  but  the  department 
wisely  recommends  that  no  changes  be  made  unless  the  best  in- 
terests of  the  service  seem  to  require  it. 

There  was  a  vacancy  at  Para  for  which  every  single  American 
in  the  place,  from  the  missionary  down  or  up,  was  an  applicant. 

I  did  not  make  a  nomination  during  the  first  month  of 
my    incumbency  because,    I   did   not   find  an   American   whom 


BUSINESS  INTERESTS  IN   PARA.  167 

I  could  conscientiously  recommend,  and  because  the  scramble 
and  underhand  maneuvering  for  the  nominal  position  afforded 
me  a  great  deal  of  amusement. 

Each  of  the  applicants  would  write  to  the  State  Department 
at  Washington,  or  ask  their  political  friends  to  assist  them.  One 
went  so  far  as  to  have  a  New  York  party  file  his  official  bond, 
being  sure  of  the  appointment. 

Each  mail  from  the  States  would  bring  me  back  a  number 
of  these  reports,  so  that  I  had  plenty  of  quiet  fun  comparing  the 
notes,  keeping  my  own  counsel  in  the  meantime. 

A  New  York  merchant  who  does  a  large  business  in  rubber 
for  cash  only,  and  not  for  trade,  but  who  is  nevertheless  a  prom- 
inent orator  for  reciprocity,  wrote  me  to  the  effect  that  he  would 
like  one  of  his  representatives  made  vice-consul. 

He  observed  that  his  competitor  in  business,  who  was  a 
Democratic  politician,  had  been  the  endorser  of  the  former  consul, 
and  the  late  vice-consul  was  his  agent  at  Para. 

It  had  been  represented  to  the  department  that  this  com- 
petitor had  been  especially  favored  at  Para  by  advance  informa- 
tion as  to  prices  paid  for  rubber. 

The  figures  were  obtainable  through  the  invoices,  filed  in  the 
consulate,  of  each  exporter  to  New  York,  they  being  required  to 
state  separately  under  oath  the  amount  shipped  by  them,  the 
prices  paid  and  to  whom  consigned. 

This  prominent  exporter  emphasized  his  request  by  saying 
that,  "If  necessary,  I  will  see  Mr.  Blaine  and  have  my  business 
agent  made  the  vice-consul." 

I  enclosed  this  letter  to  the  department,  stating  that  the  party 
suggested  was  undoubtedly  competent,  and  perhaps  the  best 
American  in  the  place,  but  I  called  attention  to  the  scandal  that 
had  been  connected  with  the  vice-consul  heretofore  and  suggested 
that,  as  I  expected  to  be  absent  on  the  Amazon  for  some  time, 
the  vice  who  would  be  appointed  would  in  effect  become  consul. 

It  was  in  my  judgment  advisable,  therefore,  that  no  one  be 
made  vice-consul  who  could  in  any  way  become  more  interested 


i68  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

than  the  consul  himself  in  the  business  necessarily  passing  through 
his  hands. 

The  American  steamship  company's  Washington  influence 
was  also  exerted  to  make  their  agent  the  vice-consul  at  Para,  but 
I  recommended  that  no  agent  of  a  steamship  company  be  ap- 
pointed vice-consul. 

I  took  the  usual  opportunity  to  again  ask  for  relief,  stating 
that  a  vice-consul  should  be  selected  who  would  be  acceptable  to 
the  department  as  a  consul. 

As  I  could  find  no  suitable  American  resident  at  Para,  I 
asked  that  I  might  name  a  Brazilian  gentleman,  who  was  emi- 
nently qualified  by  reason  of  his  having  been  educated  at  Cornell 
University,  in  New  York  State,  and  was  therefore  familiar  with 
its  people  and  business  interests  and  a  friend  of  Americans.  He 
was  by  profession  a  lawyer,  or  tabellio,  in  his  native  city  of  Para, 
and  his  family  and  social  connections  were  of  the  best.  Being 
a  brother  of  the  governor  of  the  State,  as  well  as  secretary  of 
foreign  affairs  at  Rio,  the  approval  of  his  nomination  would  be 
pleasantly  received  in  Brazil. 

This  met  with  the  department's  warmest  approval.  The 
official  dispatch  to  me  stated  that  my  recommendations  were  fully 
approved,  and  that  no  person  should  be  appointed  a  vice-consul 
w^ho  was  in  any  way  interested,  etc. 

I  was  duly  authorized  to  appoint  the  Brazilian,  and  to  the 
agreeable  surprise  of  my  dear  friend.  Colonel  Theodosio  Lacarda 
Chermont,  whom  I  had  not  consulted,  I  told  him  of  the  depart- 
ment's approval  of  my  selection. 

An  unexpected  difficulty,  which  I  had  not  considered,  un- 
tortunately  prevented  his  acceptance.  The  fact  of  his  holding 
an  important  office  under  the  Brazilian  government  prohibited 
him,  by  their  laws,  from  accepting  another. 

My  friend  was  profoundly  grateful,  however,  for  the  honor 
our  government  had  offered  to  him,  and  I  am  constrained  to  add 
that  his  numerous  Brazilian  and  foreign  friends  also  appreciated 
the  compliment. 


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BUSINESS  INTERESTS  IN   PARA.  169 

As  illustrating  the  vacillating  "policy"  of  our  consular  de- 
partment, I  will  add  that,  notwithstanding  their  recorded  protest 
against  the  appointment  of  any  interested  party  to  a  vice-consul- 
ship, the  same  department  within  the  ensuing  few  months  ap- 
proved the  appointment  of  the  steamship  agent. 

This  mistake  was  soon  rectified,  however,  and  a  Brazilian, 
Senor  Francisco  Aguiar,  was  subsequently  appointed  on  the 
recommendation  of  Colonel  Chermont. 

As  illustrating  the  futility  of  mailing  tons  of  catalogs,  circu- 
lars and  documents  to  merchants  in  South  America  I  beg  to  relate 
the  following  incident : 

An  American  interested  in  the  matter  of  fuel  for  the  fleet  on 
the  Amazon,  who  boarded  a  small  boat  in  the  port  of  Para,  found 
the  engineer  in  pictures(|ue  attire  leaning  against  the  rail,  smok- 
ing a  pipe. 

To  the  inquiry  of  the  American  coal  dealer  as  to  the  sort  of 
fuel  he  used  on  his  boat  the  engineer   indifferently  replied : 

"Sometimes  we  burn  coal  and  at  other  times  we  use  wood  fuel, 
but  we  depend  mostly  on  the  catalogs  and  documents  sent  here 
by  the  Americans,  printed  in  a  language  we  don't  understand." 


CHAPTER   XVII. 


STRANDED    AMERICAN    SEAMEN. 


HE  duties  of  United  States  consuls  in 
many  places  are  light,  and  in  this  respect 
correspond  with  the  salary.  In  most  ports 
the  work  is  of  a  routine  character;  the 
official  duties  being  confined  to  looking 
after  the  interests  of  American  trade  and 
the  welfare  of  American  seamen.  The 
consul  performs,  in  a  manner,  the  func- 
tions of  a  commercial  magistrate. 

One  necessary  requirement  is  that  the  consul  shall  be  on 
hand  when  a  ship  arrives  from  or  sails  to  his  country.  He  is 
supposed  to  act  as  sort  of  arbitrator  between  the  too  frequently 
severe  discipline  of  the  masters  of  vessels  and  their  crew. 

The  government  acts  as  the  ward  of  American  sailors,  on 
the  principle  that  they  are  not  able  to  attend  to  their  own  affairs. 
The  "Consul's  Bible,"  as  the  exhaustive  consular  regulations  are 
called,  is  supposed  to  furnish  instructions  concerning  every  legal 
point,  and  each  article  therein  is  as  inexorable  as  an  army  regu- 
lation. 

One  day,  a  big,  blustering  fellow  came  to  the  consulate,  and 
in  a  loud  manner  demanded  relief  in  the  way  of  some  "easy,"  as 
they  term  the  rum,  cachaca.  When  I  mildly  intimated  that  the 
government  did  not  send  me  out  to  play  bartender  or  to  make 
a  gin  mill  of  the  consulate,  he  rolled  up  his  shirt  sleeves,  showing 
brawny  arms  tatooed  all  over  with  sailors'  emblems,  and  declared 
that  either  he  or  I  had  to  die.  I  kept  my  seat,  but  quietly  opened 
a  drawer  in  which  I  kept  a  revolver,  and  observed  that  I  hoped 
he  would  not  put  me  to  the  expense  of  paying  for  his  funeral  out 


STRANDED  AMERICAN  SEAMAN.  171 

of  my  slender  salary,  or  of  making  a  report  to  the  department 
of  the  "effects"  he  was  showing. 

He  left,  and  when  sober,  called  again  to  apologize,  and  de- 
clared he  would  fight  for  the  American  consul,  and  I  believe  he 
would. 

On  another  occasion,  a  young  Irishman  was  sent  to  me  by 
the  British  consul,  with  a  request  that  I  would  send  him  to  New 
York  on  the  Amercan  ship  sailing  that  day.  When  I  reminded 
him  that  it  was  the  duty  of  the  English  consul  to  take  care  of 
Irish  subjects  of  Great  Britain,  he  left,  muttering  curses  on  the 
English  government.  Soon  after  he  called  again  and  declared 
himself  an  American  seaman  in  distress. 

The  law  authorizes  all  consuls  to  issue  to  any  distressed 
American  seamen  a  certificate  entitling  him  to  passage  home. 
These  certificates  are  in  a  manner  drafts  on  the  Treasury  for  the 
amount  of  the  passage,  which  all  steamship  companies  are  obliged 
to  accept. 

I  suspected  that  he  had  been  advised  by  some  one  and  was 
attempting  to  beat  his  free  transit  by  our  ship ;  but  he  had  been 
so  well  coached  that  all  questions  that  I  put  failed  to  disconcert 
him.  I  gave  him,  instead  of  a  certificate,  a  note  to  the  captain 
of  the  ship,  with  a  request  to  allow  him  to  work  his  passage, 
which  was  gracefully  granted.  When  I  told  the  Irishman  to  go 
aboard  the  American  ship,  he  was  so  overcome  with  gratitude 
that  he  reached  across  my  desk  as  I  shook  his  hand,  and  attempted 
to  kiss  me,  but  I  escaped. 

"How  cruelly  sweet  are  the  echoes  that  start 
When  memory  plays  an  old  tune  on  the  heart." 

One  evening,  while  seated  in  the  consulate,  looking  vainly 
and  sorrowfully  over  the  Amazon  toward  the  North  Star,  which 
is  just  below  our  horizon,  I  heard  a  voice  in  the  rear  of  the  large 
building  in  which  the  consulate  is  located,  plaintively  singing  that 
dear  old  song,  "Away  down  upon  the  Suwanee  River."  Always 
passionately  fond  of  music,  and  especially  of  this  distinctively 
American  air  recalling  the  evening  I  last  heard  it  sung  in  Orlando, 


172  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

Florida,  by  Miss  May  Fleming,  an  accomplished  Southern  songs- 
tress, I  was  strangely  attracted  toward  the  voice,  expecting  to 
find  an  American,  who,  like  myself,  was  "far,  far  away"  from 
home. 

Instead,  however,  I  discovered  that  the  sweet  sounds  came 
from  about  as  unprepossessing  looking  a  colored  man  as  I  have 
ever  seen.  He  was  of  the  African  type.  I  found,  on  questioning 
him,  that  he  spoke  English  and  was  employed  as  a  servant  in  the 
building  by  one  of  the  Amazon  company's  officials. 

He  had  a  villainous  expression  on  his  countenance  when  in 
repose,  but  when  he  discovered  that  he  was  talking  to  an  Ameri- 
can who  had  recently  come  from  the  South,  he  grinned  with 
delight. 

I  ascertained  that  he  was  an  American  citizen,  born  and  bred 
on  a  plantation  near  Savannah,  Ga.  He  had  been  some  years  at 
sea  and  came  out  here  in  an  English  ship  of  the  Amazon  company. 

I  asked  why  he  did  not  go  home.  He  said,  "I  done  left  thar 
like  a  fool  nigger,  and  don't  never  speck  to  git  back  thar  no  moah." 

When  I  offered  to  send  him  to  New  York  free  of  expense 
as  an  American  seaman,  he  was  filled  to  overflowing  with  grati- 
tude. He  came  to  the  consulate  every  day  with  hat  in  hand, 
bowing  and  smiling,  and  offered  his  services  in  scrubbing  or 
cleaning,  doing  errands,  etc. 

I  had  received  a  number  of  requests,  or  rather  requisitions, 
from  lady  friends  in  the  States  to  send  them  parrots  and  monkeys. 
I  thought  this  a  fine  chance  to  execute  the  orders,  as  the  colored 
man  could  see  that  they  received  proper  attention  on  the  sea 
voyage.  He  was  delighted  at  the  prospect  of  serving  me,  and 
in  the  following  days  walked  into  the  consulate  with  a  stick  on 
which  were  perched  two  parrots,  while  a  trained  monkey  sat  on 
his  shoulder. 

I  paid  the  price  and  arranged  instructions  as  to  their  ship- 
ment the  following  day.  I  also  wrote  glowingly  to  my  friend 
about  the  coming  presents,  telling  Miss  May  that  it  was  her  sweet 
voice  that  had  caused  the  happiness  of  a  poor   fellow  far,   far 


STRANDED  AMERICAN  SEAMAN.  173 

from  home,  and   took  considerable  satisfaction  myself    for  the 
successful  transaction. 

Some  days  after  the  ship  sailed,  I  happened  to  be  walking 
along  through  one  of  the  narrow,  ill  smelling  streets  of  the  old 
town,  where  the  colored  people  live.  Hearing  a  voice  talking 
loud  English  in  one  of  the  cachaca  dens,  I  looked  in  and,  to  my 
astonishment,  beheld  my  Suwanee  negro,  quarreling  with  the 
inmates.  On  seeing  my  expression  of  incredulity  and  disgust,  he 
began  at  once  to  offer  in  a  half  drunken  manner  his  effusive 
explanations.  When  I  recovered  my  breath,  I  interrupted  him 
by  an  outpour  of  blankety  dash  jingle  in  English  that  astonished 
the  natives,  and  sobered  him. 

I  told  him  if  he  did  not  bring  the  ship's  ticket  and  my 
monkey  and  parrot  to  me  in  an  hour  I  would  put  him  in  jail.  He 
saw  that  I  was  in  earnest  and  complied,  but  all  his  subsequent 
pleadings  could  not  induce  me  to  give  him  another  chance. 

Consuls  at  all  important  seaports  usually  encounter  the  worst 
class  of  sailors,  and  that  is  putting  the  human  nature  that  consuls 
have  to  deal  with  pretty  low  on  the  scale. 

Generally  the  seamen  who  appeal  to  him  for  assistance  are 
of  a  pugnacious  disposition,  while  on  board  ship  they  cause  all 
sorts  of  trouble  with  the  ship's  officers  and  their  mates.  This  is 
aggravated  a  hundredfold  when  they  get  ashore  and  fill  them- 
selves with  rum. 

A  majority  of  them  are  perhaps  intelligent  persons,  whose 
earlier  bad  habits  and  tastes  led  them  to  the  adoption  of  a  sea- 
faring life.  These  are  known  as  "sea  lawyers,"  who  understand 
fully  the  law  of  the  land  in  regard  to  their  rights,  which  they 
call  upon  a  consul  to  enforce. 

The  consul's  regulations  explicitly  stated  that  only  American 
seamen  who  were  bona-fide  citizens,  who  had  last  sailed  in  an 
American  ship,  were  entitled  to  passage  home,  as  distressed  sea- 
men. 

On  one  occasion  four  as  hard  looking  wretches  as  I  had  ever 
seen  were  unloaded  on  the  consulate ;  literally  dumped  on  to  my 


174  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

desk,  all  of  whom  were  bona-fide  American  seamen.  Yet,  under 
the  regulations  as  laid  down,  I  could  not  return  them  because 
they  had  been  discharged  at  Para  from  an  English  ship,  the  last 
on  which  they  had  sailed. 

They  had,  of  course,  spent  all  their  money  and  sold  most  of 
their  clothes ;  so  that  they  came  to  the  consulate,  as  usual,  half 
starved  and  sick,  begging  the  assistance  which  the  law  prohibited 
me  from  granting. 

At  first  a  new  consul  puts  his  hands  in  his  pockets  and  helps 
poor  Jack,  his  starving  countryman,  to  get  something  to  eat, 
offering  his  good  services  in  trying  to  obtain  him  employment  or 
the  privilege  of  working  his  passage  home.  In  this  case  it  so 
happened  that  there  were  no  ships  sailing  home  for  some  days, 
perhaps  weeks. 

Yellow  fever  was  prevailing,  and  fully  realizing  that  those 
men  would  surely  become  victims  if  they  remained  in  their 
wretched  condition  in  the  place,  I  determined  to  take  upon  myself 
the  responsibility  of  using  a  little  common  sense  in  the  adminis- 
tration of  consular  duties  that  was  not  outlined  by  the  regulations. 

At  the  risk  of  the  department  disapproving  my  action  and 
charging  to  my  account  the  expense,  I  issued  passage  certificates 
to  these  men  to  Rio  de  Janeiro,  which  was  doubly  contrary  to 
the  rules,  as  they  had  been  last  employed  on  a  foreign  ship,  and 
my  pass  sent  them  three  thousand  miles  in  an  opposite  direction 
from  home. 

The  men  requested  this  because  they  could  get  employment, 
or  as  it  is  termed  "ship"  at  Rio,  as  readily  as  at  New  York. 

The  agent  of  the  American  steamship  company  at  Para,  who 
had  been  a  Cape  Cod  skipper  of  a  fishing  smack,  and  as  an  ex- 
mate  of  a  steamer  seemed  to  bear  the  habitual  ill  will  toward  all 
seamen,  protested  loudly  against  my  showing  the  men  any  sort 
of  consideration.  He  subsequently  attempted  to  defeat  my  action 
by  refusing  to  permit  the  four  seamen  of  his  own  land  to  ride  in 
the  agency  launch  to  get  aboard  the  American  ship,  then  lying 
in  the  stream. 


STRANDED  AMERICAN  SEAMAN.  175 

They  were  sent  aboard,  however,  the  consul's  certificate 
being  imperative.  The  ship's  officers  were  obliged  to  accept  them 
as  steerage  passengers. 

I  have  recited  the  case  as  an  instance  of  the  impracticability 
of  complying  implicitly  with  any  hard  and  fast  rules  or  regu- 
lations. 

It  is  but  just  to  say  that  the  department  not  only  approved 
my  action  in  an  official  dispatch,  but  soon  thereafter  an  official 
circular  was  issued,  on  account  of  my  agitation  of  the  matter, 
changing  by  the  President's  express  authority,  the  rules  that 
cause  a  seaman  to  lose  his  rights  as  an  American,  because  he  hap- 
pened to  be  last  employed  by  an  alien  vessel.  Consuls  were  au- 
thorized to  send  distressed  seamen  "home"  by  the  farthest  way 
around,  if  by  so  doing  their  distress  was  relieved  by  affording 
them  opportunity  to  secure  employment. 

All  persons  employed  aboard  ships,  from  the  captain  to  the 
cook  and  boys,  are  classed  as  seamen. 

A  type  of  dead  beats  on  ships,  who  seek  to  fleece  consuls,  are 
know  as  "coast  combers."  These  are  men  who  sign  papers  for 
a  voyage,  merely  to  afford  themselves  temporary  relief.  When 
the  ship  reaches  the  next  port  they  desert  and  apply  to  the  consul, 
who  sends  them  along  to  his  next  colleague. 

It  sometimes  happens  that  better  classes  of  persons  under- 
take service  in  the  saloons,  as  waiters  or  stewards,  in  order  to 
reach  certain  destinations,  or  to  afford  themselves  opportunities 
for  traveling  about  the  world. 

The  law  requires  that  masters  of  vessels  can  only  discharge 
seamen  at  a  foreign  port  before  a  United  States  consul,  who  is 
supposed  to  see  that  the  seaman  has  received  his  dues  and  that 
he  (the  consul)  is  not  being  imposed  upon. 

This  law  is  rendered  almost  inoperative  by  a  well  known 
practice  of  petty  officers,  making  it  so  warm  for  an  objectionable 
person  that  he  is  compelled,  by  brutal  treatment,  to  desert  his 
ship  at-  the  first  opportunity,  and  thereby  loses  not  only  his  back 
pay,  but  any  claim  to  protection. 


176  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL    IN    AMAZONIA. 

A  case  of  this  kind  reached  the  consul  at  Para.  A  young 
German- American,  of  prepossessing  appearance  and  good  address, 
had  been  unloaded  at  Para  from  a  new  American  steamship,  that 
gave  a  banquet  in  the  harbor.  He  was  unable  to  get  any  satis- 
faction as  to  his  pay  from  the  agent,  and  was  brought  to  me  by 
a  large  hearted  German  resident,  who  explained  that  the  man 
was  a  student,  who  had,  in  a  fit  of  despondency,  joined  the  ship's 
stewards  and  officers  after  having  fully  explained  his  entire  inex- 
perience. The  steward,  who  was  a  coarse  German  of  the  very 
opposite  character,  vilely  abused  the  young  fellow  because  he 
was  unable  to  work  on  account  of  seasickness. 

His  life  was  threatened  if  he  did  not  leave  the  ship.  He 
tried  to  desert  at  Barbados,  and  succeeded  in  getting  ashore  at 
Para,  while  the  ship  was  toasting  and  banqueting  its  guests. 

We  took  care  of  him  until  the  American  ship  returned,  when 
he  was  sent  aboard  as  a  passenger,  with  a  statement  of  his  case 
to  the  authorities. 

The  captain  of  the  steamship  publicly  declared  to  me  he 
would  never  take  a  man  back  to  New  York  to  bring  a  lawsuit 
against  his  ship.  Though  compelled  to  take  him  from  Para,  I 
subsequently  learned  that  he  was  so  cruelly  treated  that  he  was 
obliged  to  leave  the  ship  on  arrival  at  St.  Thomas. 

He  was  further  quieted  by  some  charges  being  made  against 
him  before  the  Danish  authorities,  and  allowed  himself  to  be 
forced  into  a  prison.  The  records  for  this  case  are  on  file,  but 
there  are  many  similar  or  worse  instances  that  are  not  reported, 
because  consuls,  as  a  rule,  do  not  care  to  antagonize  a  steamship 
company  carrying  their  own  flag. 

It  is,  however,  a  well  known  fact,  that  a  second  officer  of 
the  same  company  so  cruelly  treated  a  seaman  that  he  jumped 
or  was  thrown  overboard,  and  while  he  swam  to  an  uninhabited 
island  the  brutal  officer  (since  promoted  to  captain)  fired  shots 
at  the  man  while  swimming  for  his  life. 

The  popular  captain  of  a  ship  came  to  the  consulate  one  warm 
day  to  discharge  a  sick  seaman  into  the  Miseracorda  Hospital,  at 
Para. 


y.    I. 


STRANDED  AMERICAN  SEAMAN.  177 

This  vessel  had  just  come  up  the  coast  from  Rio  and  was 
loaded  with  yellow  fever,  having  buried  the  husband  and  one 
of  the  ship's  officials  at  a  port  below,  and  the  wife,  two  days  later 
at  Para  (both  in  my  consular   district  J. 

I  did  not  insist  on  personally  seeing  the  sick  seaman,  as  is 
the  custom,  and  took  the  captain's  word  that  the  man  would 
probably  die.  He  left  in  my  hands  a  month's  back  pay  which 
was  due  him,  taking  my  receipt  therefore  and  the  consul's  dis- 
charge of  his  man,  remarking  that  it  would  probably  be  enough 
to  get  him  a  decent  burial. 

One  can  get  accustomed  to  anything,  yet  I  could  not  quite 
get  rid  of  some  nervousness  about  yellow  fever,  though  it  came 
before  me  officially  and  personally  almost  every  day,  like  a  stalk- 
ing ghost. 

I  had  almost  forgotten  about  the  poor  fellow  in  the  hospi- 
tal or  had  concluded  he  had  been  buried.  One  day  a  tall,  lank 
looking  figure  walked  across  the  consulate  floor,  like  a  ghost, 
which,  instead  of  the  conventional  white,  was  literally  a  yellow 
ghost.  His  face  was  thin  and  yellow  and  he  looked  queerly 
toward  me  out  of  decidedly  yellow  eyes. 

He  wore  a  pair  of  blue  overalls  and  a  closely  buttoned  dirty 
linen  coat,  with  which  he  scantily  tried  to  conceal  the  naked 
truth  that  he  had  no  shirt  to  cover  his  yellow  skin. 

Without  speaking  a  word,  he  walked  to  my  desk,  reached 
his  bony  hand  over  to  me,  which  I  was  compelled  to  accept. 
It  was  so  cold  and  clammy  that  I  felt  my  blood  chill.  I  dropped 
it  quickly  and  instinctively  rubbed  my  own  perspiring  hands 
against  my    trousers. 

Seeing  my  nervousness,  he  attempted  a  sickly  smile  which 
exposed  a  row  of  yellow,  grinning,  skeleton  teeth  under  the  over- 
grown beard.  He  was  so  weak  that  he  could  scarcely  stand 
up. 

I  politely  pointed  to  a  chair  on  the  other  side  of  the  room, 
which  I  urged  him  to  occupy. 


178  AN   AMERICAN   CONSUL   IN   AMAZONIA. 

I  found  that  his  hesitancy  in  speaking  arose  not  only  from 
weakness,  but  because  he  did  not  know  English.  He  was  a  Ger- 
man-American. The  seamen  who  had  been  put  ashore  with 
yellow  fever  to  be  buried  had  come  to  life  in  the  consulate. 

His  story,  too,  is  on  record,  and  sworn  to  as  I  have  stated 
it,  supplemented,  however,  with  the  unpleasant  truth  that,  before 
coming  to  me,  he  had,  as  an  employe  of  the  American  steam- 
ship company,  urgently  appealed  to  the  agent  at  Para,  for  his 
assistance  in  having  him  taken  away  from  the  dreaded  charity 
hospital  where  he  was  compelled  to  witness  so  much  misery. 

He  carried  the  Portuguese  doctor's  certificate  that  he  was 
convalescent  and  should  be  removed  to  a  more  suitable  place. 

The  agent  of  the  company  answered  the  poor  man's  polite 
request  with  a  string  of  vile  oaths,  that  would  have  blistered  the 
mouth   of  any  one  but  himself. 

He  told  the  trembling  convalescent  to  "Go  to  hell  or  back 
to  the  hospital  where  you  belong!"  This  great  American  steam- 
ship company  pays  port  dues  here  to  support  that  hospital.  You 
go  there  and  board  it  out.  We  are  not  going  to  pay  for  your 
living  any  place  else." 

Satisfying  myself  fully  of  these  facts,  I  took  the  man  in 
charge  of  the  consulate,  boarding  him  at  a  hotel,  for  less  than 
the  daily  expense  at  the  hospital. 

I  also  furnished  him  clothing  and  some  wines,  and  when 
he  was  ready  to  return,  gave  him  his  passage  and  astonished  him 
by  handing  him  the  money  that  had  been  deposited  with  me  to 
pay  for  his  coffin. 

The  government  approved  my  action,  yet  the  Treasury  offi- 
cials actually  disallowed  the  bill  for  which  I  sent  vouchers  on 
account  of  a  week's  boarding  and  clothing,  because  the  law  and 
regulations  say  that  I  should  have  deducted  all  this  expense  from 
his  own  money,  which  was  left  to  bury  him. 

The  curious  bookkeeping  of  the  Department  would  not  pass 
this  bill  for  a  week's  boarding  of  a  sick  and  distressed  seaman 
because  he  recovered. 


STRANDED  AMERICAN  SEAMAN.  179 

It  must  not  be  inferretl  from  these  illustrations  that  the 
cruelty  toward  seamen  is  confined  to  the  American  company. 
Unquestionably  the  abuse  exists  to  the  same  extent  in  the  Eng- 
lish ships,  and  it  is  incomparably  worse  on  the  Mediterranean 
steamers  that  come  to  the  Amazon. 

WHAT  PEOPLE  THINK  ABOUT  A  CONSUL. 

Most  people    imagine  it's   a   fine   thing 

A  consul  to  be :  representing  a  republic,  a  king, 

Or  a  queen,  prince  or  an  emperador 

Or  a  cannibal  chief — if  he  can  be  no  more — 

And  the  consul  sans  doute  has  at  his  command 

Unlimited  cash,  which  is  always  at  hand 

To  give  to  all  who  seek  his  protection. 

Or  with  whom  his  country  may  have  any  connection. 

They  expect  him  to  be  a  judge  and  a  priest, 
A  doctor,  a  counsellor,  and  to  know  something  at  least 
Of  every  language  that  is  spoken  on  earth. 

Write  Chinese  or  translate  Welsh ;  or  he's  thought  nothing 
worth. 

Must  know  of  biscuits,  medicine  and  the  curing  of  pork ; 

Officiate  at  marriages  and  childbirths  and  do  grave  diggers' 
work ; 

Preach  and  pray  for  others ;  be  a  timepiece,  cure  scurvy ; 

Straighten  American  merchants'  affairs  long  turned  topsy- 
turvy. 

He  must  know,  best  of  all,  the  laws  of  all  nations; 
Teach  natives  the  duties  which  belong  to  their  stations. 
But  the  consul  has  no  right  outside  of  his  office,  or  in  it, 
Neither  on  board  of  American  ships,  or  ashore,  for  a  minute. 
He  may  relax  to  eat,  or  to  drink,  but  not  to  rest  or  to  sleep. 
He  pays  for  others'  pleasures  and  his  scant  salary  can't  keep. 


i8o  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

He  must  be  jolly  or  sad ;  on  occasion,  laugh  or  cry ; 

Must  be  healthy,  never  sick.     None  resign  and  few  die. 

He  must  study  all  sciences,  be  a  "savant;" 

Can  never  do  right,  but  always  is  wrong. 

When  a  drunken  sailor  comes  dirty  and  stinking 

Into  the  consulate,  half  mad  with  drinking. 

He  must  be  complacent  to  Jack, 

Hand  him  a  chair  and  about  his  girl  have  a  crack. 

In  fact,  a  consul  must  know  and  do  everything,  or 
The  general  cry  is,  "What's  a  consul  good  for?" 
He  must  not  be  old,  or  young,  single  or  married ; 
And  I  really  believe  that  when  he  is  buried 
They  will  still  continue  to  vent  all  their  spleen 
Denying  him  heaven,  Sambo  or  Fiddler's  Green. 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

AN  EXCURSION  WITH  THE  UPPER  FOUR  HUNDRED. 

T  is  safe  to  assert  that  American  consuls 
with  all  their  shortcomings,  receive  greater 
consideration  in  foreign  locations  than 
they  get  at  home. 

This    is    especially    true    of    Latin- 
American    consulates,    that    people    as    a 
rule  entertaining  a  decided  preference  for 
those  holding  "commissions"     (or  "com- 
mis-i-own-ees ;  as  they  say  it)  from  their  governments. 

The  boycot  by  the  foreign  colony,  who  were  not  popular  with 
the  native  element,  served  to  facilitate  a  good  feeling  between  the 
would-be  ostracized  Americano  and  the  better  class  of  Brazilians, 
as  will  be  illustrated  by  the  reproduction  of  the  following  corre- 
spondence which  was  largely  copied  at  home  and  translated  all 
over  Brazil. 


"O  Consul  Americano,"  in  the  Portuguese  is  "The  American 
consul,"  generally  addressed  as  senhor  consul  and  seldom  called 
by  name. 

This  is  the  custom  followed  by  natives  and  foreigners  in  that 
country — a  distinction  which  the  consular  representatives  of  the 
other  nations  do  not  enjoy. 

Probably  the  reason  may  be  found  in  the  fact  that  other 
consuls  are,  as  a  rule,  engaged  in  trade.  The  United  States  is 
known  as  the  exclusive  consul,  who  is  not  engaged  in  other 
business. 

With  the  exceptions  of  the  American,  British  and  German 
consuls,   the  position  is  a  nominal  one  in  Para,  being  sought  by 


l82  AN   AMERICAN    CONSUL    IN    AMAZONIA. 

foreign  residents  for  the  honorary  title  and  attendant  social  priv- 
ileges rather  than  for  the  small  compensation  attached  to  the 
service. 

The  consuls  of  all  nations  resident  in  Para,  except  American 
and  English,  receive  only  the  small  fees  that  may  come  to  them 
from  the  performances  of  any  services  to  ships  of  their  own 
nations  which  call  at  that   port. 

The  British  consul,  wdien  engaged  in  business,  is  allowed  a 
stipulated  sum  per  annum,  which  he  considers  inadequate,  though 
more  than  double  that  which  the  United  States  consuls  receive 
in  the  way  of  salary. 

At  larger  ports  the  British  consul,  w'ho  gives  his  entire  time 
to  the  service,  is  handsomely  remunerated. 

The  question  of  consular  salaries  is  an  important  considera- 
tion, which  I  can  only  discuss  from  the  isolated  standpoint  of  a 
personal  experience,  from  which  those  who  are  interested  in  the 
subject  may  form  their  own  conclusions. 

The  department  is  not  entirely  responsible  for  the  unjust, 
if  not  absurd,  inequalities  of  this  service.  It  is  claimed  that  for- 
merly a  committee  of  Congress  regulated  the  entire  matter.  Con- 
sular salaries  were  scaled  or  classified,  according  to  the  political 
judgnient  of  some  Congressman  who  had  never  been  out  of  his 
own  country  and  who  knew  absolutely  nothing  of  the  peculiar 
requirements  of  this  important  foreign  service. 

If  a  congressman  on  that  committee  happens  to  have  a 
friend  to  reward  or  a  rival  to  exile,  he  will  probably  have  a  salary 
at  a  certain  ]wint  increased  by  the  mere  preference  of  a  personal 
request.  Having  secured  this  advance,  the  honorable  gentleman, 
goes  to  the  department  and  demands  as  a  right  that  his  friend 
be  given  the  j^lace  he  has  created  for  him.  In  this  way  it  fre- 
quently happens  that  of  two  consuls  in  the  same  country,  one 
may  receive  double  the  salary  of  his  colleague,  who  does  twice 
as  much  work  in  a  more  expensive  place. 

Due  regard  is  not  paid  to  the  cost  of  living  at  the  different 
ports  of  the    world.      It  is  well  known  that  at  some   European 


AN  EXCURSION  WITH  THE  UPPER  400.  183 

ports,  where  the  expense  of  hving  is  trifling — the  only  duty  the 
consul  performs  is  the  making  of  the  drafts  for  his  salary.  On 
the  other  hand,  a  consul  in  a  God  forsaken  valley  of  the  shadow 
of  death,  like  Para,  has  many  important  duties  to  perform. 

I  may  be  pardoned  this  digression,  but  the  records  will  show 
to  the  congressional  committees  that,  for  the  first  quarter,  I  re- 
mitted a  balance  to  the  Treasury,  after  deducting  salary  and  ex- 
penses from  fees  received,  and  by  the  same  mail  I  sent  a  receipted 
board  bill  to  the  department,  that  showed  that  I  had  paid  within 
seven  dollars  of  my  salary  for  boarding  alone. 

A  consul  is  expected  to  dress  becomingly,  and  to  make  a 
respectable  appearance  as  an  American  gentleman,  yet  it  is  im- 
possible for  him  to  do  so  on  his  salary. 

Congressmen  will  advance  the  argument  that  it  is  a  question 
of  supply  and  demand,  that  there  are  plenty  of  persons  anxious 
to  take  places  at  the  salaries  they  arrange. 

This  is,  unfortunately,  too  true.  Influential  and  wealthy 
persons  who  may  have  unsettled  sons  or  friends  to  place  look 
upon  the  consular  service  as  a  most  desirable  field  for  their  ban- 
ishment. 

A  good  consul,  to  render  reliable  reports,  should  be  well 
paid  and  promoted  for  meritorious  service  and  not  be  compelled 
to  beg  his  way,  or  to  depend  on  charity  or  make  his  reports  to 
suit  political  influence.  The  remedy  seems  to  be  through  the 
adoption  of  civil  service  reform  in  our  consular  bureau. 

An  American  consul  is  required  by  law  to  subscribe  to  an 
obligation  that  he  will  not  become  directly  or  indirectly  interested 
in  any  business  outside  of  his  official  duties. 

He  must  devote  his  entire  time  to  the  service  of  his  country, 
while  resident  in  a  foreign  land. 

Perhaps  our  consular  service  demands  greater  attention  be- 
cause of  the  tarifif  laws  which  necessitate  the  certification  of  all 
invoices  to  American  ports,  as  well  as  the  issuance  of  bills  of 
health,  etc. 


l84  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

The  time  not  otherwise  occupied  is  supposed  to  be  devoted 
to  the  preparation  of  reports. 

After  the  performance  of  my  regular  duties,  I  endeavored 
to  eke  out  an  existence  by  contributing  to  the  press,  of  which 
more  anon. 

As  the  humble  representative  of  the  great  sister  republic  of 
the  United  States,  the  consul  at  Para  received  considerable  atten- 
tion from  the  numerous  officials  of  the  place. 

In  addition  to  the  formal  cards  that  were  addressed  to  the 
consulate  soon  after  the  official  recognition  and  presentation  of 
my  exequatur,  I  enjoyed  the  distinguished  honor  of  a  call  at  my 
hotel  from  the  governor.  This  young  Paranese  governor  had 
been  an  attache  of  the  Brazilian  legation  at  Washington.  He  was 
kind  enough  to  say  in  good  English  that  he  had  seen  me  in  the 
press  galleries  of  the  Senate,  and  courteously  expressed  a  desire 
to  do  anything  officially  or  informally  to  make  my  stay  agreeable. 

He  had  imbibed  his  republicanism  while  a  resident  of  our 
country,  being  among  the  foremost  to  advocate  the  change  from 
the  empire,  and  accepted  the  office  of  governor  at  a  time  when 
to  do  so  was  thought  hazardous. 

The  general  in  command  of  the  Brazilian  army  in  that  de- 
partment, as  also  some  of  his  staff,  called  and  courteously  invited 
me  to  their  military  headquarters,  as  a  representative  of  our 
Grand  Army  and  Loyal  Legion. 

The  consuls  of  other  nations  sent  their  official  cards  and  in 
many  cases  called,  so  that  I  was  made  to  feel  quite  indifferent 
toward  the  "second  rate  Englishmen  and  renegade  Americans." 

In  addition  to  the  courteous  reception  on  the  part  of  the 
Brazilian  officials,  it  became  my  privilege  to  be  frequently  enter- 
tained in  their  home  circles. 

To  this  experience  I  may  not  publicly  refer  as  fully  as  I 
should  like  to  talk  with  friends,  the  instinct  of  the  gentleman 
overcoming  the  inclination  or  training  of  an  American  journalist. 

It  was  a  pleasant  privilege  to  have  met  early  the  accom- 
plished wife  and  daughters  of  the  manager  of  the  Companhia 


!£ 


^    o    a, 

—    1^      U 


U       X     >-f- 


< 


H 


3     O 


AN  EXCURSION  WITH  THE  UPPER  400.  185 

Mercantil  do  Para,  Senhor  Jose  Ayres  Watrin.  This  gentleman 
was  among  the  first  to  call  at  the  consulate  and  courteously  invite 
the  American  stranger  to  his  home  circle. 

He  was  educated  in  Germany,  has  traveled  extensively,  and 
speaks  English  almost  perfectly,  and  is  probably  the  best  versed 
man  in  this  part  of  the  country  on  the  business  of  the  valley. 

I  am  glad  of  an  opportunity  to  record  my  obligations  to  this 
cultured  Brazilian,  for  both  social  and  business  facilities. 

]\Iore  charmingly  delightful  and  happy  homes  than  those  of 
the  Brazilians  I  have  never  yet,  as  a  man  of  the  world,  found  in 
all  my  travels.  The  home  life  of  the  better  class  is  absolutely 
pure  and  most  affectionate.  This  is  the  universal  testimony  of 
those  who  have  had  the  good  fortune  to  have  reached  the  inner 
circles. 

In  some  respects  the  Brazilians  are  a  very  peculiar  people. 
They  have  their  exacting  customs. 

It  has  been  a  common  mistake  for  some  foreigners  to  at 
once  attempt  to  override  the  customs  of  generations,  and  failing 
to  break  down  the  barrier  by  a  direct  attack,  they  resort  to  crit- 
icism and  innuendo.  This  has  had  the  effect  of  creating  a  stronger 
barrier;  and  very  many  gentlemen  of  refinement,  who  have  been 
residents  for  years,  have  never  yet  entered  a  Brazilian  home,  and 
therefore  can  know  nothing  of  the  home  life  which  they  criticize 
so  severely. 

The  Brazilian  fathers  and  mothers  guard  most  sacredly  their 
households,  and  also  scrutinize  closely  the  manners  and  habits 
of  foreigners. 

The  fact  that  most  of  the  foreign  element  of  all  nations  soon 
become  dissipated  in  this  tropical  and  unhealthy  region  is  one 
obstacle  to  a  free  intercourse  with  the  families. 

Perhaps  it  is  the  feeling  of  banishment  and  the  absence  of 
home  comforts  and  the  lack  of  the  good  influence  of  the  society  of 
ladies  that  cause  these  excesses. 

A  Brazilian  of  prominence  whom  I  had  the  pleasure  of  meet- 
ing was  the  Baron  de  Ibiapaba,  a  wealthy  and  genial  old  gentle- 


i86  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL    IN    AMAZONIA. 

man.  resident  of  one  of  the  lower  provinces,  who  visited  Para 
in  the  interest  of  a  branch  of  a  system  of  hanks  throughout 
Brazil  in  which  he  is  concerned. 

His  Para  institution  is  being  managed  by  a  nephew,  Senhor 
Cunha,  a  most  accomplished  young  gentleman,  who  would  be 
considered  quite  a  catch  for  one  of  our  pretty  blondes,  who  so 
admire  that  type  of  gentleman,  especially  as  he  is  a  rich  baron's 
protege. 

On  the  occasion  of  this  visit  the  baron  gave  a  select  river 
party  to  his  Para  friends,  to  which  I  had  the  honor  of  receiving 
an  invitation  as  consul.  The  cards  were  elegant  specimens  of 
workmanship,  in  Portuguese,  in  the  most  approved  order  of  the 
typographical  art. 

I  could  not  read  the  card,  and  on  appealing  to  friends  for 
a  translation,  I  was  urged  to  go,  as  I  should  meet  the  best  people 
of  Para.  But  I  did  not  think  it  would  be  much  pleasure  for  me, 
to  get  out  on  the  river  with  a  lot  of  people,  be  they  ever  so  nice., 
if  I  couldn't  talk  with  them. 

On  the  Sunday  morning  of  the  excursion,  however,  I  hap- 
pened to  be  at  the  consulate  portico,  taking  in  the  cool  morning 
breeze  from  the  river.  The  finest  of  the  Amazon  steamers,  the 
Esperanza  (which  means  "Hope"),  gaily  decorated,  was  lying  at 
the  wharf.  Bands  of  music  were  playing ;  ladies  in  elegant  sum- 
mer toilets  accompanied  by  the  inevitable  mother,  father  and 
brothers  already  aboard,  while  carriages  were  rushing  down  and 
unloading  other  ladies  and  gentlemen  at  the  gang  plank. 

I  concluded  to  take  a  closer  look  at  the  select,  having  no 
thought  of  going  along,  until  I  espied  the  baron's  daughter  cir- 
culating among  her  friends  on  the  deck,  looking  as  blooming  and 
fresh  after  a  previous  night's  ball  as  the  beautiful  tropical  exotics 
that  bloom  in  the  early  morning,  under  the  equator. 

She  was  attired  neatly,  but  as  appropriately  as  are  the  birds 
of  gay  plumage  that  flourish  only  on  the  island  of  Marajo.  Dis- 
covering the  Britsh  consul  in  the  party,  I    went  aboard,  and  it 


AN  EXCURSION  WITH  THE  UPPER  400.  187 

didn't  require  much  coaxing  on  the  part  of  this  courteous  gentle- 
man to  detain  me.    He  kindly  offered  to  see  me  through. 

I  was  fortunate  also  in  meeting  the  German  consul,  Mr. 
Sesselberg  and  his  wife,  an  American  lady  from  Poughkeepsie, 
New  York. 

The  boat  steamed  off  while  the  band  played  the  Brazilian 
national  hymn,  carrying  out  in  the  bay  as  happy  and  as  agree- 
able a  party  as  it  has  ever  been  my  lot  to  meet. 

Indeed,  I  have  not  the  ability  to  describe  this  delightful  Sun- 
day excursion  on  the  Amazon. 

It  was  composed  of  the  upper  "four  hundred,"  the  cream  of 
Para  society.  The  governor,  vice-governor  and  all  the  prominent 
officials  and  their  families  were  aboard,  as  well  as  representatives 
of  the  most  important  banking  and  commercial  interests.  If  the 
boat  had  sunk,  the  loss  to  Para  would  have  been  irreparable. 

There  was,  however,  an  entire  absence  of  formality.  Each 
one  seemed  to  vie  with  the  others  in  the  effort  to  be  agreeable. 
Indeed,  as  the  American  consul,  I  was  overwhelmed  with  courte- 
ous attentions;  and  so  long  as  life  lasts  I  shall,  whenever  I  hear 
the  song,  "A  Night  in  June  on  the  Danube  River,"  recall  this 
day  upon  the  Amazon,  with  the  liveliest  sense  of  appreciation. 

The  Brazilian  people  are  verbose  on  toasts  and  after  dinner 
speeches ;  when  the  dinner  was  served  aboard,  the  vice-governor 
and  senator  from  Para,  Dr.  Paes  de  Carvalho,  who,  by  the  way, 
is  a  handsome,  as  well  as  a  most  accomplished  gentleman,  took 
the  trouble  to  look  me  up  and  invite  me  to  a  seat  at  his  right. 

I  begged  off  on  account  of  my  unfamiliarity  with  the  lan- 
guage, which  the  clever  doctor  smilingly  appreciated  and  turned 
me  over  to  my  friend,  Thedosio  Chermont,  a  brother  of  the  gov- 
ernor, who  speaks  English  fluently. 

I  soon  discovered  that  the  courteous  young  gentleman  had 
not  been  a  resident  in  America  during  three  years,  as  a  student 
at  Cornell,  for  nothing. 

He  and  I  at  once  became  companions  on  this  and  many  other 
larks.     He  is  a  warmhearted  and  generous  friend,  as  well  as  an 


1  he  Baron's  daughter  being  presented  hy  Colonel  Theodosio  Cher- 

mont  to  O  Consul,  who  is  a  little  weak-kneed  at 

meeting  his  affinity. 


AN  EXCURSION  WITH  THE  UPPER  400.  189 

admirer  of  America  and  her  institutions,  and  to  his  skilful  diplo- 
macy I  am  indebted  for  many  pleasant  hours. 

The  ladies  danced  with  the  young  gentlemen;  the  elderly 
played  cards  or  chatted  pleasantly  among  themselves. 

Wine  was  served  in  abundance ;  in  fact,  all  that  could  be 
thought  of  had  been  anticipated  by  the  baron  and  his  accomplished 
nephew,  so  that  everything  wealth  could  procure  and  culture 
suggest  was  aboard  and  at  the  bidding  of  the  guests. 

Fresh  oysters  were  served  that  had  come  from  Chesapeake 
Bay  on  ice. 

The  menu  cards  were  models  of  art,  being  embossed  and 
richly  printed  in  gold  and  silver. 

I  really  do  not  know  whether  the  boat  went  up  or  down  the 
river,  being  so  much  interested  aboard  that,  for  the  time  being, 
I  forgot  all  about  the  outside  world. 

There  is  this  to  be  said  about  a  Brazilian  picnic  party  on 
Sunday :  Though  there  was  a  superabundance  of  all  kinds  of  iced 
drinks,  there  was  not  a  single  indication  of  excess.  I  cannot  put 
the  fact  too  strongly.  It  is  a  truth  that  impressed  itself  pro- 
foundly upon  my  mind;  as  I  had  expected,  after  the  manner  of 
our  own  like  affairs,  to  see  some  of  the  young  members  of  the 
party  get  too  hilarious ;  but  there  was  not  a  single  boisterous  word 
or  action;  in  fact,  the  Brazilian  manners  so  severely  discounte- 
nance these  exhibitions  that  to  commit  such  indiscretions  prac- 
tically ostracizes  the  offender  from  polite  society. 

Of  course,  the  blooming  exotic  danced  gracefully,  and  I 
imagined  she  flirted  terribly  with  the  governor,  who  is  quite  a 
young  and  handsome  unmarried  man. 

While  standing  some  distance  off,  and  talking  to  my  friend, 
Chermont,  about  the  ladies  in  general,  and  perhaps,  the  baron's 
daughter  in  particular,  I  was  made  almost  speechless  by  the  lady 
in  question  approaching  and  smilingly  stand  right  in  front  of  us, 
while  my  friend  presented  me.  I  have  since  thought  that  he 
quietly  signaled  over  my  shoulder  for  her  to  come  up. 


190  AN   AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

In  broken  accents,  which  sounded  very  sweet  to  my  ears,  she 
expressed  her  pleasure  at  meeting  an  American,  and  intimated 
that  she  was  glad  that  I  was  not  an  Englishman.  In  reply  to  my 
question  she  modestly  said  she  had  traveled  in  England,  France 
and  Italy;  but  had  never  visited  America.  When  I  invited  her 
to  our  country,  offering  my  services  as  a  guide,  she  showed  an 
intelligent  interest  in  the  great  American  nation,  and  hoped  she 
might  make  some  acquaintances  among  American  ladies. 

I  ventured  the  observation  that  she  seemed  most  likely  to 
find  a  great  many  friends  among  the  blue-eyed,  light-haired  gen- 
tlemen. 

"Oh,  yes ;  I  love  blue  eyes,"  she  said. 

As  soon  as  I  got  home,  the  first  thing  I  did  was  to  look  in 
the  mirror  to  see  the  color  of  my  eyes. 

When  I  attempted  to  compliment  her  on  her  popularity 
among  all  the  foreign  people  here,  she  shrugged  her  shoulders 
like  a  French  lady,  modestly  disclaiming  any  aspirations  in  that 
direction. 

"Everybody  speaks  highly  of  Senhorita,"  I  said,  adding  that 
"I  had  been  a  very  close  observer,  and  had  also  been  making  some 
inquiries;  and  that  the  only  word  that  I  had  heard  uttered  dis- 
paragingly was  that  perhaps,  she  might  be  something  of  a  flirt." 

She  looked  at  me  with  so  sweet  and  sadly  reproachful  an 
expression  that  my  heart  sank  and  I  really  felt  at  the  moment 
like  a  culprit  guilty  of  a  great  indiscretion.  She  poutingly  an- 
swered in  the  deliberate,  hesitating  way  in  which  she  is  compelled 
to  study  out  each  English  word,  "Nao — Senhor — Consul — I — 
am — not — a — vlirt,"  then  turning  those  beautiful  brown  eyes  full 
on  me,  with  an  arch  look  out  of  the  corners,  she  continued  to 
struggle  with  the  English  words  that  came  so  provokingly  slow 
and  sweet  through  her  smiling  lips:  "I — must — to — Ameriky — 
go — to — learn — that . 

After  the  laugh  at  my  expense  which  followed  this  happy 
retort,  I  managed  to  gather  myself  up  sufficiently  to  say  that  I 
had  never  yet  seen  an  American  girl  to  whom  she  could  not  give 
pointers  on  the  art  of  flirting. 


AN   EXCURSION   WITH   THE  UPPER  400.  191 

The  reader  must  not  retain  the  impression  that  the  baron's 
daughter  was  the  only  pretty  girl  in  all  the  gay  party.  This 
young  lady  took  my  fancy  because  of  her  dashing  style  and 
sweetly  intelligent  face,  which  indicated  that  she  was  well  born 
and  bred,  and  because  of  her  resemblance  to  a  dear  friend. 

There  were  other  ladies  present  who,  no  doubt,  would  be 
esteemed  prettier,  notably  the  Petite  Miss  Zeta,  the  youngest 
daughter  of  the  Portuguese  cashier  of  the  English  bank.  Hers 
is  the  ideal  type  of  the  Spanish  Portuguese  beauty.  Where  the 
baron's  daughter  is  the  blooming  exotic,  Zeta  is  the  rare  and 
beautiful  orchid;  quite  small,  a  perfect  figure — one  of  those 
straight  girls  whose  every  movement  is  beautifully  graceful  and 
who  can  dance  like  a  little  fairy — lustrous,  black  eyes,  so  large 
that  they  give  her  an  expression  of  sadness,  even  through  the 
sweet  smiles  that  are  always  curving  her  lips  in  a  most  inviting 
way,  showing  pretty  teeth  and  causing  dimples  in  her  cheeks. 

Because  I  had  guilelessly  expressed  my  admiration  of  this 
young  lady  in  the  dance,  one  of  my  few  English  friends  brought 
her  on  his  arm  to  a  distant  part  of  the  boat,  and  astonished  me 
by  an  introduction.  She  could  not  speak  a  word  of  English,  nor 
I  a  word  of  Portuguese ;  but  I  managed  to  stutter  out  the  weak 
compliment  that  her  eyes  spoke  inexpressible  words  to  me. 

Perhaps  it  is  an  advantage  in  not  being  able  to  speak  Portu- 
guese ;  it  is  impossible  to  make  love  at  first  sight  to  these  pretty 
senhoritas. 

A  majority  of  them  will  say,  with  a  smile  and  a  bow,  when 
you  meet  them,  "Nao  fallo  Inglez  Senhor;"  but  I  have  made  the 
embarrassing  discovery  that  they  "comprehendem"  sometimes 
better  than  they  confess. 

For  instance,  in  the  belief  that  a  certain  very  attractive  lady 
could  not  "compredender"  or  "fallar  Inglez,"  I  ventured  to  remark 
to  a  friend  in  her  presence:  "She  looks  so  sweet,  I  can  hardly 
keep  my  hands  off  her ;"  at  which  she  glanced  significantly  at  her 
companion,  and  both  smiled  audibly,  to  my  embarrassment. 


192  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IX    AMAZONIA. 

There  are  three  of  these  charming  sisters,  who  may  always 
be  seen  together,  and  by  their  dinging,  affectionate  ways,  remind 
one  of  the  three  graces. 

Miss  Ninita,  the  eldest,  is  a  tall,  slender,  warmhearted  girl 
of  about  eighteen,  quite  accomplished  and  pleasant.  She  speaks 
English  and  French  fairly  well,  and  is  highly  spoken  of  by  the 
foreign  element  here,  because  of  her  kindly  disposition  to  make 
visits  to  her  home  agreeable  and  pleasant. 

She  has  translated  Longfellow's  "Evangeline"  into  the  Por- 
tuguese. 

To  this  young  lady's  kindly  disposition  I  am  indebted  for 
some  delightful  hours  spent  in  her  charming  home  circle. 

She  engaged  to  teach  me  Portuguese.  I  gladly  offered  to 
give  her  plenty  of  opportunity  to  practice  her  English  on  me. 
And  endeavored  to  repay  her  kindness  by  giving  her  some  in- 
struction in  American  methods. 

The  smaller  sister,  Zizi,  does  not  speak  anything  but  Portu- 
guese ;  but  seemed  to  get  a  great  deal  of  enjoyment  from  watching 
her  other  sisters  entertaining  the  "consul  Americano." 

When  the  American  mail  brought  to  Para  a  number  of 
papers  containing  this  account,  with  display  headlines,  "An  Ex- 
cursion of  the  Upper  Four  Hundred  of  Para,"  with  agreeable 
comments,  there  was  something  of  a  stir  in  social  circles  in  Para, 
which  I  could  scarcely  understand. 

]\Iy  correspondence  for  some  weeks  previous  had  apparently 
not  attracted  much  interest,  but  this  social  affair  seemed  to  excite 
that  part  of  the  eighty  thousand  population  considerably. 

I  had  committed  no  breach  of  the  proprieties  in  publishing 
my  impressions  of  the  excursion,  having  been  careful  to  consult 
my  Brazilian  friends.  The  baron,  who  gave  the  entertainment, 
personally  expressed  his  gratification  at  the  intimation  of  his 
entertainment  being  made  public.  Besides  this,  the  matter  printed 
had  been  submitted  to  the  nephew,  and  met  with  his  approval, 
before  being  mailed. 


AN  EXCURSION  WITH  THE  UPPER  400.  193 

This  is  mentioned  here  that  the  reader  may  look  farther  in 
these  pages  for  the  real  cause  of  the  commotion. 

Baron  de  Gondoriz,  who  is  recognized  as  one  of  the  most 
prominent  citizens  and  is  known  as  the  Rubber  King  in  America 
and  Europe,  as  well  as  Brazil,  laughingly  told  me,  in  reply  to 
my  regrets  for  having  thoughtlessly  printed  the  name  of  the 
baron's  pretty  daughter : 

"Oh,  the  mistake  you  made  was  in  not  printing  some  of 
the  other  ladies'  names ;  they  all  feel  slighted,  and  take  out  their 
revenge  on  you  through  the  favored  lady." 

The  correspondence  was  reproduced  in  Portuguese  in  Para, 
and  was  even  copied  at  Rio,  3,000  miles  distant. 

The  Para  paper  Provincia  do  Para  criticized  the  consul's 
correspondence  inspired  by  some  of  the  foreign  element  whose 
only  motive  was  prompted  by  jealousy. 


CHAPTER  XIX. 


REVOLUTION   IN   PARA GEOGRAPHICAL  OUTLINES  OF   BRAZIL. 

S  previously  indicated,  Brazil  covers 
a  greater  area  than  the  United  States, 
being  in  contact  with  all  the  other  re- 
iV"^  publics  of  South  America,  except  Chili. 
Reference  to  the  map  will  show  that 
South  America  lies  almost  entirely  to 
the  eastward  of  the  continent  of  North 
America.  A  north  and  south  line 
drawn  along  the  eastern  coast  of  our 
country  passes  along  the  western  coast 
of  South  America. 

Para  is. in  latitude  1°  27'  S.,  longitude  48°  W.  The  Amazon 
valley  extends  generally  due  westward  for  three  thousand  miles. 
Figuratively  speaking,  the  point  of  land  of  South  America  farthest 
to  the  east  is  in  the  middle  of  the  Atlantic,  about  half  way  over 
toward  Africa. 

As  it  appears  on  the  maps,  this  continent  may  be  likened, 
in  geographical  outline,  to  a  shoulder  of  mutton,  or  a  quarter  of 
beef,  Patagonia  being  the  soup  bone. 

It  will  also  be  observed  that  the  northern  part  of  the  Bra- 
zilian coast  line,  for  over  three  degrees,  runs  almost  east  and 
west,  facing  toward  the  north. 

The  fifty  thousand  miles  of  inland  navigation  of  the  mighty 
Amazon  and  its  tributaries,  at  its  outlet,  curves  toward  the  north, 
marking  a  path  in  the  deep  blue  of  the  Atlantic  for  three  hundred 
miles  with  its  old  gold  colored  water.  It  may  be  said  to  have  the 
appearance  of  inviting  trade  from  its  sister  continent,  toward 
which  it  seems  to  mark  a  golden  trail. 


A  REVOLUTION  IN  PARA.  195 

The  Amazon  is  as  near  New  York  as  it  is  to  the  capital  of 
Brazil  at  Rio  de  Janeiro.  Northern  Brazil,  more  properly  de- 
scribed under  the  general  term  of  the  Amazonian  valley,  which 
in  itself  is  an  immense  country,  is  in  almost  all  respects  entirely 
distinct  from  that  portion  of  Brazil  lying  to  the  south. 

I  ventured  the  prediction,  in  an  official  report,  that  the  time 
would  come  when  northern  Brazil  would  secede  from  the  south, 
and  Amazonia  become  an  independent  republic. 

There  is  no  inland  communication  between  Rio  de  Janeiro 
and  the  large  states  of  Para,  Maranhao,  Cerea,  Amazonas  and 
the  greater  part  of  Matto  Grosso,  except  by  ships  along  the  three 
thousand  miles  of  coast,  and  adding  another  thousand  miles  of 
the  Amazon  to  reach  Amazonas. 

Though  the  American  steamship  line  was  withdrawn  from 
this  service  long  since,  it  seems  necessary  to  refer  to  it  in  order 
to  preserve  the  sequence  of  the  narrative. 

As  a  matter  of  business,  the  Amazon  valley  was  not  ade- 
quately served  by  the  American  steamship  line.  American  ship- 
pers are  indebted  to  the  Booth  and  former  "Red  Cross"  line  of 
steamships  for  the  large  trade  they  now  enjoy  in  this  section, 
and  are  yet  largely  dependent  upon  these  well  conducted  English 
ships,  and  a  friendly  rivalry  is  courted  which  will  benefit  all 
parties. 

The  five  American  ships,  by  reason  of  their  subsidy  from 
the  Brazilian  government,  were  required  to  do  a  general  coasting 
business  along  Brazil  for  trade  with  the  United  States. 

The  English  people,  as  a  rule,  were  not  friendly  toward  the 
new  republic. 

The  agitation  of  American  trade  and  commerce  with  this 
section  has  seemed  in  a  manner  to  rouse  the  British  lion  from 
his  lethargy,  induced  by  being  indulged  so  long  and  overfed  so 
well. 

The  English  colony  is  securely  planted.  In  numbers,  they 
are  as  ten  to  one  compared  with  the  Americans;  and  probably, 
in  a  business  sense,  they  can  compete  with  us  as  twenty  to  one. 


196  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IX    AMAZONIA. 

As  a  rule,  the  managers  are  personally  a  pleasant  set  of 
gentlemen.  They  do  not  assimilate  largely  with  the  Brazilians, 
except  in  a  business  way,  seldom  marrying  in  this  country ;  in 
fact,  I  have  understood  that  in  some  cases  the  English  firms,  to 
which  they  are  nearly  all  attached,  have  stipulated  in  their  con- 
tracts with  those  sent  out  here  that  they  shall  not  marry  in  this 
country. 

On  expressing  my  surprise  at  such  a  restriction  being  placed 
upon  an  employe,  it  was  explained  that  the  purpose  was  to  avoid 
any  business  complications  with  the  government  which  might 
result  from  there  being  any  citizens  of  Brazil  financially  interested 
in  their  firms. 

The  English  banks  and  numerous  navigation  companies,  how- 
ever, employ  a  large  number  of  Brazilians,  who  do  not  in  any 
way  become  important  factors  in  the  control  of  their  immense 
business  interests  in  Brazil. 

A  large  number  of  both  English  and  German  commercial 
travelers  are  in  every  city  along  the  coast.  These  remain  year 
after  year  in  the  country,  becoming  familiar  with  the  language 
and  the  people,  as  well  as  with  the  trade. 

There  were  never  less  than  three  to  five  at  my  hotel  in  Para, 
during  my  residence  there,  yet  I  never  saw  or  heard  of  a  single 
American  business  agent  during  this  time.  Our  merchants  rely 
too  much  on  printed  reports  of  the  bureau  of  American  republics, 
which  are,  as  a  rule,  devoted  largely  to  a  few  special  interests. 

In  the  last  days  of  the  empire,  under  the  reign  of  Dom  Pedro 
II,  the  Brazilian  milreis,  the  currency  of  the  realm,  was  equivalent 
to  fifty-four  cents  gold. 

After  two  years  of  Republican  "dictatorship,"  the  same 
milreis  was  worth  about  twenty-five  cents. 

These  are  the  undisputed  facts  and  figures,  which  speak 
volumes,  and  "Faks,"  as  Sairy  Gamp  says,  "is  stubborn  things 
whitch   wunt  be  druv — not  mutch." 

Columns  have  been  printed  and  voluminous  official  reports 
circulated  which  are  "calculated,"  as  the  Yankees  say,  to  account 


A  REVOLUTION  IN  PARA.  197 

for  or  to  explain  to  outsiders  this  sure  and  steady  decline  in  the 
new  republic's  finances. 

As  the  United  States  consul  and  an  old  newspaper  man,  with 
the  reputation  of  being  a  keen  observer,  I  was  kept  in  a  continual 
heat,  in  that  perspiring  latitude,  by  trying  to  keep  the  government 
posted  on  the  probable  causes  for  this  falling  barometer,  which 
seems  to  portend  a  financial  cyclone.  The  first  glance  at  a  morn^ 
ing  paper  is  at  the  commercial  column,  which  shows  the  closing 
of  the  previous  day's  rate  of  exchange ;  when  two  friends  meet  in 
the  street  they  discuss  in  the  sun,  under  their  umbrellas,  the  all 
important  question  of  "exchange."  We  get  "exchange" — in 
pounds,  shillings  and  pence  for  breakfast  and  dinner,  and  after 
dark  the  clubs  gamble  on  the  probable  exchange  of  the  following 
day. 

The  remarkable  feature  to  a  stranger  is  that  all  this  "ex- 
change" is  posted  through  the  English  banks  which  receive  their 
instructions  over  telegraph  wires  owned  and  controlled  by  Eng- 
lish capital  in  London.  Everybody  seems  to  accept,  without  ques- 
tion, the  quotations  that  come  from  headquarters  in  this  manner. 
However,  as  the  "Consul  Americano,"  at  Para,  I  did  not  fret 
about  such  matters,  as  the  only  financial  transaction  that  the  con- 
sul is  at  all  concerned  in  personally  consists  in  exchanging  all  of 
his  salary  for  his  boarding.  I  will  not  attempt  to  ventilate  any 
financial  views.  Opinions  are  just  as  plentiful  and  as  cheap  in 
Brazil  as  in  America,  and  the  intelligent  readers  understood  fully 
that  printed  opinions  do  not  make  them  any  more  reliable. 

When  a  physician  visits  a  patient,  his  first  move  is  a  quiet 
reach  for  the  pulse.  With  watch  in  hand,  he  intently  counts  the 
beats,  paying  but  little  attention  to  the  rambling  talk  or,  perhaps, 
beseeching  glance  of  the  sick  person.  So  it  is  with  sick  nations, 
which  need  to  be  doctored,  the  physician  is  the  capitalist  who 
examines  the  pulse,  which  is  likened  to  the  exchange  or  gold  rate, 
and  makes  his  recommendation  and  prescriptions  according  to 
the  healthfulness  of  the  body  pohtic  as  thus  indicated. 

It  is  well  known  that  the  "revolution"  which  overthrew  Dom 
Pedro  II  did  not  come  from  or  through  the  people,  but  was  con- 


198  AN   AMERICAN   CONSUL   IN   AMAZONIA. 

ceived  and  executed  by  the  officers  of  the  army,  the  populace, 
however,  promptly  giving  its  adherence  to  the  new  order  of 
things.  This  placed  General  Deodora  Fonseca,  of  the  Brazilian 
amiy,  at  the  head  of  the  new  government  as  military  dictator,  for 
a  probationary  period  of  one  year,  during  which  time  elections 
were  ordered,  and  all  the  preliminary  formulas  promulgated,  con- 
stitutions adopted  and  other  necessary  steps  taken  to  put  the  new 
republic  on  a  solid  basis. 

General  Fonseca  was  subsequently  elected  President,  not  by 
the  people,  but  by  the  newly  organized  congress  at  Rio  de  Janeiro. 
The  governors  of  the  different  states  were  likewise  chosen  by 
the  various  state  legislatures,  which  were  elected  by  the  people. 

It  will  be  seen  that  in  this  regard  their  constitution  is  not 
modeled  after  our  own.  It  is  claimed  that  subsequent  elections 
for  the  executive  officials  will  be  by  the  vote  of  the  people. 

An  election  in  those  countries  frequently  means  a  revolution. 
Their  conception  of  civil  service  reform  is  to  go  for  the  office 
holder  with  a  gun  to  create  a  vacancy.  In  this  code  of  examina- 
tion it  is  the  best  shot  who  wins  the  prize. 

An  election  held  in  the  state  of  Para,  during  my  incumbency, 
resulted  in  the  choice  of  all  the  candidates  of  the  "ins."  The 
"outs"  loudly  charged  that  the  election  was  wholly  fraudulent. 
At  the  time  there  was  considerable  excitement  in  and  about  the 
city  of  Para,  it  being  conceded  by  the  "ins,"  or  Republicans,  that 
the  new  election  laws  practically  gave  them  the  power  to  "con- 
trol" the  vote. 

An  ominous  quiet  prevailed  during  the  few  weeks  subsequent 
to  the  election,  but  it  appears  that  an  extensive  and  widespread 
revolutionary  conspiracy  had  been  secretly  organized  by  the  oppo- 
sition party,  the  object  of  which  was  to  prevent  by  violence  the 
seating  of  the  so-called  "fraudulently  elected"  delegates,  and  put- 
ting the  defeated  candidates  in  their  places.  The  avowed  purpose 
was  to  thus  organize  the  first  republican  legislature  of  the  state 
of  Para,  which  would  immediately  elect  their  leader  Miranda  as 
the  governor,  and  then  claim  recognition  by  the  general  govern- 
ment at  Rio. 


A  REVOLUTION  IN  PARA.  199 

The  new  state  assembly  was  to  be  organized  at  the  govern- 
ment palace  on  June  11.  On  the  day  preceding,  at  about  two 
o'clock  in  the  morning,  a  body  of  some  two  hundred  men  moved 
silently  through  the  narrow,  dark  and  crooked  streets  of  Para, 
toward  the  police  barracks. 

It  should  be  explained  here  that  the  police  battalion  of  Para 
were  regularly  drilled,  armed  and  uniformed  after  the  manner 
of  the  military,  and,  of  course,  commanded  by  the  usual  large 
complement  of  officers.  There  is  also  a  "mounted"  or  cavalry 
police  squadron. 

These  are  under  the  sole  control  of  the  state,  which  is  prac- 
tically the  municipal  government  of  Para,  and  which  pretends  to 
be  independent  of  the  general  government  at  Rio. 

There  is  also  quartered  in  the  city  a  battalion  of  the  fifteenth 
regiment  of  the  regular  Brazilian  army,  and  in  the  harbor  a 
couple  of  small  gunboats,  all  under  command  of  officers  of  that 
army,  who  are  likewise  independent  of  the  state's  government. 

As  previously  outlined  in  my  reports  and  correspondence, 
there  had  been  innumerable  street  skirmishes  between  these  two 
armies  on  account  of  petty  jealousy,  engendered  by  this  imma- 
ture state  rights  conflict  resulting  usually  in  the  wounding  of  one 
or  two,  and  of  the  alarming  of  the  entire  populace. 

The  state  government  depended  largely  upon  their  police 
force,  which  were  comfortably  quartered  in  the  barracks,  adjoin- 
ing the  palace. 

The  revolutionists  were  under  the  leadership  of  a  hot-headed 
young  man,  who,  it  appears,  by  the  subsequent  testimony,  pre- 
cipitated the  revolution  and  probably  by  his  impulsive  movement 
prevented  greater  success.  Instead  of  boldly  assaulting  the  bar- 
racks, the  leader  alone  approached  the  sentry  who  was  on  guard 
at  the  gates.  He  was  evidently  an  expected  visitor,  as  he  was 
cordially  received  by  the  sergeant  of  the  police  guard.  After  a 
short  conference  between  these  two  worthies,  the  leader  signaled 
for  his  revolutionary  army  to  advance.  The  sergeant  took  his 
sentry  off  his  guard,  and  two  hundred  men  rushed  into  the  bar- 


200  AN   AMERICAN   CONSUL   IN   AMAZONIA. 

racks  disarmed  the  remaining  guards  and  seized  all  the  arms  and 
ammunition  that  had  been  so  carefully  housed  there  to  be  used 
against  just  such  an  expected  attack. 

The  disgraceful  feature  of  the  affair  is  that  nearly  all  these 
especially  selected  loyal  police  soldiers  immediately  joined  the 
rebels,  energetically  aiding  the  enemy  in  their  seizure  of  the 
garrison.  The  officers  of  this  police  battalion  behaved  in  a  cow- 
ardly manner,  concealing  themselves  under  their  bed  clothing  in 
their  rooms  on  the  corridors  above,  from  which  they  afterwards 
safely  witnessed  the  proceedings  without  in  any  way  offering  any 
resistance. 

Thus  strongly  reinforced  by  the  uniformed  and  drilled  police, 
the  revolutionary  army  well  equipped  for  dangerous  rioting, 
marched  out,  after  first  impressing  into  their  service  the  brass 
band  attached  to  this  battalion. 

This  was  only  one  of  the  many  silly  mistakes  made  in  con- 
sequence of  the  want  of  proper  leadership. 

Instead  of  going  quietly  about  to  add  to  their  strength  the 
recruits  that  are  always  ready  for  such  occasions,  the  revolu- 
tionists paraded  the  streets  of  the  city,  accompanying  the  music 
of  the  band  by  shouts  and  threatening  language,  thereby  created 
a  feeling  of  apprehensiveness,  instead  of  enlisting  encouragement. 

The  home  of  their  leader  and  intended  governor  was  visited. 
The  band  serenaded,  while  the  expectant  crowd  waited  to  welcome 
their  new  governor ;  but  the  "governor"  was  not  equal  to  the 
emergency,  or  else,  disapproving  of  the  movement,  he  declined  to 
make  an  appearance. 

The  mob  was  largely  increased  by  the  half  Indian  and  negro 
populace  that  had  been  aroused  by  the  confusion  in  the  streets, 
but,  alas !  they  had  no  real  leader,  and,  as  is  usual  in  such  cases, 
they  withdrew  in  some  confusion  and  disorder  from  the  city 
streets,  and  entered  a  thicket  or  jungle  in  a  swampy  suburb,  from 
which  they  were  subsequently  hunted  down  by  the  military,  after 
a  spirited  resistance,  during  which  five  of  the  regular  soldiers 
were  wounded.     Though  somewhat  exaggerated  stories    are  re- 


A  REVOLUTION  IN   PARA.  201 

lated  as  to  the  large  casualties  of  the  rebels,  it  is  not  officially 
known  what  number  were  killed  or  injured. 

From  their  well  covered  retreat  it  is  probable  the  fatalities 
were  less  than  that  of  the  soldiers,  who  occupied  more  exposed 
places,  though  at  a  very  safe  distance.  No  attempts  were  made 
at  a  charge  or  rout  of  the  rebels. 

In  the  meantime,  while  this  idle  skirmishing  was  being  kept 
up  in  the  outskirts,  the  recently  elected  republican  assemblymen 
(or  as  they  term  themselves  here  congressmen)  were  brought 
together  at  the  palace,  and  at  nine  o'clock  of  that  day,  in  silence 
and  with  many  of  their  bronzed  faces  blanched  with  terror,  they 
assembled  in  their  hall  and  were  hurriedly  sworn  in.  This  was 
the  first  republican  congress  of  Para  organized  under  the  pro- 
tection of  the  numerous  cannons  that  had  been  placed  in  the  largo, 
or  square,  surrounding  the  government  buildings. 

One  of  the  most  popular  as  well  as  influential  gentlemen  is 
my  friend  Col.  Theodosio  L.  Chermont,  a  Brazilian-American. 
Though  not  an  American  citizen,  he  was  by  special  provision  ap- 
proved as  the  vice-consul  of  the  United  States  at  this  point.  In 
criticising  the  Brazilian  character  Col.  Chermont  and  a  number 
of  other  Paranese  of  his  high  standing  are  always  excepted.  This 
gentleman,  early  in  the  fra3%  interested  himself  as  a  peacemaker, 
and  became  the  commissioner  or  ambassador  between  the  gov- 
ernor in  the  palace  and  the  rebels  in  the  woods,  and,  through  his 
tact  and  diplomatic  management,  peace  was  restored  and  a  prob- 
able revolution  arrested  through  the  arbitration  of  the  United 
States  consulate.  A  number  of  arrests  were  made,  and  the  balance 
of  the  insurgents  disappeared,  but  at  times  their  ghosts  yet  haunt 
the  people  of  Para. 


CHAPTER    XX. 


IMMIGRATION    TO    BRAZIL. 


1^  OTE. — Though  the  following  pages  on 
immigration  were  written  some  time  ago, 
the  conditions  remain  relatively  the  same. 
Those  interested  in  the  subject  are 
advised  to  procure  from  the  bureau, 
or  the  Brazilian  embassy  at  Washington, 
or  any  Brazilian  consul,  the  valuable  little 
booklet  by  J.  C.  Oakenfull,  entitled,  "Bra- 
zil in  1909,"  published  by  the  Brazilian  government  commission 
of  propaganda  and  distributed  gratis. 

While  it  gives  more  attention  to  southern  Brazil  than  the 
American  region,  the  little  book  contains  much  valuable  informa- 
tion. 

The  character  of  information  that  is  cheerfully  supplied  to 
consuls  by  these  Latin  governments  is  indicated  by  the  official 
circulars  they  put  out  to  induce  foreign  immigration. 

These  are  attractively  got  up,  very  much  after  the  manner 
of  our  own  boomers'  publications. 

From  a  large  supply  of  data  furnished  by  the  government 
officials,  I  extract  the  following  brief  points. 

Brazil  desires  and  endeavors  to  stimulate  European  immi- 
gration to  her  territory. 

It  is  well  known  that  the  European  immigrants  coming  to 
the  new  world  generally  seek  the  north  and  south  temperate 
zones,  while  Brazil,  which  lies  almost  entirely  within  the  tropics, 
receives  hardly  any. 

Since  the  abolition  of  slavery  in  Brazil,  through  the  pro- 
clamation of  Dom  Pedro's  daughter  as  regent  in  1888,  the  large 


IMMIGRATION  TO  BRAZIL.  203 

planters   of   southern   Brazil   have    found  difficulty   in  obtaining 
enough  laborers  for  their  needs. 

The  immigration  law  therefore  has  the  southern  Brazilian 
planters  especially  in  view  and  it  is  very  poorly  adapted  for 
attracting  immigrants  to  the  Amazon  valley. 

The  general  plan  of  government  aid  is : 

The  subsidizing  of  transatlantic  steamship  lines  which  bring 
a  minimum  of  ten  thousand  immigrants  per  year  to  Brazil ;  the 
payment  of  third  class  passage  for  such  immigrants  on  certain 
conditions;  the  granting  of  lands  to  capitalists  or  corporations 
for  the  purpose  of  founding  colonies  of  immigrants ;  the  granting 
of  stipulated  amounts  of  money  to  said  capitalists  and  corpora- 
tions for  the  construction  of  houses  and  roads;  payment  of  re- 
turn passage  to  Europe  for  the  widows  and  children  of  immigrants 
who  may  die  within  a  year  after  arrival  in  Brazil,  and  for  persons 
maimed  by  accident  within  six  months  after  arrival. 

The  law  contemplates  both  the  old  planters  who  may  wish 
to  people  their  plantations  with  foreigners  and  also  speculators 
who  may  wish  to  go  into  the  colonization  business ;  but  aside  from 
these  two  channels,  the  law  offers  no  help  to  foreigners  coming 
to  Brazil.  And  in  these  two  similar  cases  the  aid  is  only  for 
agricultural  laborers  and  their  families,  and  for  artisans  and  house 
servants,  not  including  their  families. 

It  will  be  seen  that  the  law  was  made  for  the  Brazilian  capi- 
talist and  the  old  slave  holding  planter,  and  not  from  pure,  un- 
selfish love  for  the  immigrant. 

It  will  be  seen  also  that  in  such  a  case  the  Brazilian  proprietor 
in  the  south  has  in  his  hands  almost  unlimited  means  for  oppres- 
sion and  extortion.  A  forty  acre  farm  of  wild  land,  thus  bar- 
gained for  in  a  foreign  country,  with  a  mortgage  of  at  least 
double  its  value  to  begin  with  and,  in  case  of  poor  crops  or  sick- 
ness, ejection  with  loss  of  half  the  amounts  paid,  is  hardly  worth 
going  five  thousand  miles  to  find,  unless  one  is  in  a  pretty  bad 
fix  at  home.  It  would  be  white  slavery  without  the  independence 
and  irresponsibility  of  a  slave. 


204  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

As  already  stated,  the  plan  is  not  at  all  suited  to  the  Amazon 
valley  in  its  present  conditions. 

From  a  communication  to  the  department,  which  may  be  had 
upon  application,  consisting  of  a  translation  of  a  series  of  articles 
published  in  the  daily  newspaper,  "A  Republica,"  entitled,  "Land 
Property  Titles  in  Para,"  it  will  be  evident  that  with  land  so  cheap 
and  so  available  for  those  who  wish  to  buy,  no  sane  man  if  he 
knew  all  the  facts,  would  submit  to  the  conditions  of  that  law 
for  the  paltry  amount  required  to  pay  his  third  class  passage 
across  the  ocean. 

Besides,  the  tracts  of  land  available  for  immediate  settle- 
ments, as  I  subsequently  ascertained  by  visits,  are  narrow,  fre- 
quently interrupted  stretches  along  the  margins  of  the  water- 
courses. The  upland  of  the  Amazon  valley  is  still  untouched 
except  in  a  few  little  spots.  It  is  too  far  from  the  rivers,  and 
the  only  roads  are  the  rivers.  In  fact,  nobody  knows  much  of 
anything  about  the  upland,  except  that  it  is  for  the  most  part 
an  imbroken  and  almost  impenetrable  forest. 

The  low  lands,  where  the  yearly  floods  prevent  the  growth 
of  forest,  are  magnificent  grazing  lands;  but  the  small  farmer 
with  fifty  or  a  hundred  cattle  would  be  at  a  great  disadvantage. 
His  house  would  be  on  the  narrow,  elevated  margin  of  the  river 
channel,  out  of  the  reach  of  the  annual  flood.  His  pasture  land  is 
back  of  his  house  on  a  lower  level,  and  under  water  from  one  to 
three  months  in  the  year. 

He  must  generally  have  some  higher  land  somewhere,  per- 
haps ten  miles  away  across  the  flats  (varzea),  back  of  the  bluffs 
tha:  border  the  river  plain,  for  the  high  ground  on  which  his  house 
stands  is  forest  and  affords  no  pasture.  He  must  also  have  money 
enough  to  hire  a  steam  tug  and  a  barge  to  take  his  cattle  to  this 
distant  land  (terra  firmaj,  if  the  flood  rises  suddenly,  as  it  often 
does. 

During  my  visit  up  the  Amazon  the  floods  were  rather  higher 
than  usual ;  and  for  the  lack  of  means  for  transporting  cattle 
that  were  unexpectedly  imprisoned  on  the  narrow  ramparts  be- 


IMMIGRATION  TO  BRAZIL.  205 

tweeii  the  river  channels  and  the  flood  plains,  it  is  estimated  that 
■over  thirty  thousand  head  of  neat  cattle  and  five  thousand  horses 
and  mules  died  of  starvation  and  pestilence  on  the  lower  Amazon 
above  the  delta. 

Large  fortunes  ha\'c  been  made,  and  still  larger  ones  may 
be  made,  in  herding  in  the  Amazon  valley ;  but  it  is  not  imme- 
diately available  for  immigrants.  If  people  of  limited  means  ever 
succeed  in  it  to  any  extent,  co-operative  methods,  or  at  least 
organized  methods,  must  be  resorted  to  in  order  to  be  able  to 
escape  the  disasters  of  the  unexpectedly  sudden  rise  of  the  floods 
and  their  occasional  extraordinary  rise. 

The  agricultural  possibilities  of  the  Amazon  valley  are  large. 
The  soil  is  fertile  and  there  are  never  any  droughts,  or  frosts  or 
grasshoppers.  But  the  products  are  mostly  tropical.  The  almost 
exclusive  breadstuffs  of  the  temperate  zones  will  not  grow  in  the 
Amazon. 

Wheat,  barley,  oats  and  rye  grow  rank  as  far  as  straw  is 
concerned,  but  produce  no  kernels  of  grain.  Potatoes  grow  well, 
and  of  excellent  quality,  but  the  yield  is  exceedingly  small.  Corn 
yields  abundantly,  but  it  is  used  for  food  only  when  other  food 
fails ;  because  it  is  too  "heating"  to  the  blood. 

A  hunk  of  "Johnny  cake"  as  big  as  one's  fist  will  produce 
an  eruption  like  nettlerash  all  over  one's  body  within  twenty-four 
hours  after  eating  it.  -Foreign  corn  eaten  here  does  not  produce 
any  such  efifect. 

Consequently  rice  and  mandioca  are  the  only  breadstuffs  that 
will  ever  be  raised  in  the  valley.  Rice  grows  spontaneously  and 
mandioca — which  is  the  bread  of  the  country — with  almost  no 
cultivation  except  cutting  and  burning  off  the  brush  and  sticking 
the  joints  of  mandioca  stems  into  the  ground.  Six  or  eight 
months  later  the  roots  are  pulled  up  and  made  into  meal  (farinha). 

As  it  has  not  the  phosphatic  elements  that  make  wheat  the 
prime  breastuff  of  the  world,  the  Amazon  valley,  in  spite  of  the 
richness  of  its  soil,  will  always  be  a  gradually  increasing  market 
for  our  wheat  flour. 


2o6  AN   AMERICAN   CONSUL   IN   AMAZONIA. 

Sugar  cane  grows  luxuriantly.  In  many  places  it  is  only 
necessary  to  burn  off  the  grass  and  reeds  and  scatter  pieces  of 
sugar  cane  stalks  over  the  surface  of  the  ground.  They  will 
sprout  and  take  root  without  being  planted  in  the  ground,  and 
will  yield  two  crops  a  year  for  a  dozen  years  without  cultivation 
and  without  replanting.  That,  of  course,  is  on  low  land.  On 
high  land  the  cane  "runs  out"  in  four  or  five  years,  and  begins 
to  produce  an  inferior  quality  of  sugar.  The  cane  field  is  then 
burned  over  and  a  new  crop  planted. 

But  the  price  of  labor  is  so  high  since  the  rubber  fever  be- 
gan that  it  does  not  pay  to  make  sugar.  Nearly  all  the  sugar 
cane  is  turned  into  rum,  but  even  so,  it  supplies  only  a  small 
part  of  the  rum  consumed  in  the  valley. 

Bananas  and  oranges  and  a  great  variety  of  other  edible 
fruits  grow  in  greatest  abundance  and  with  very  little  labor. 

Coffee  grows  luxuriantly,  but  is  said  to  be  of  a  quality  in- 
ferior to  that  produced  farther  south. 

The  only  agricultural  product  exported  from  the  Amazon 
valley  is  cacao,  which  goes  largely  to  France.  Chocolate  is  manu- 
factured from  this  seed  by  roasting  and  grinding.  Its  culture  is 
very  remunerative,  and  it  gives  quick  returns  for  outlay. 

The  trees  begin  to  bear  in  paying  quantities  at  three  years  of 
age,  and  are  still  vigorous  and  productive  a  hundred  years 
later.  The  labor  of  planting  is  slight,  and  the  after  care  is  simply 
to  keep  parasitic  plants  from  the  branches  and  gather  the  fruit. 
The  foliage  forms  so  dense  a  shade  that  no  form  of  vegetation 
will  spring  up  in  a  cacao  orchard  after  the  trees  are  five  or  six 
years  old.  The  only  weeds  are  those  which  grow  on  top  of  the 
trees,  and  these  are  easily  destroyed. 

The  cacao  orchards  which  I  saw  were  nearly  all  on  low  land. 
It  has  not  yet  been  proved  that  cacao  would  yield  profitably  on 
high  land.  When  there  is  lack  of  rain  at  the  fruiting  season,  or 
the  floods  fail  to  reach  high  enough  to  fill  the  soil  with  water, 
the  crop  is  a  failure.  Irrigation,  however,  would  be  easy  on  the 
lands  where  cacao  is  raised.    This  crop  will  always  be  one  of  the 


IMMIGRATION  TO  BRAZIL.  207 

most  valuable  for  the  Amazon  farmer,  who  can  have  his  cacao 
orchard  on  the  elevated  river  front  and  his  cattle  and  rubber 
tree  plantations  on  the  low  flood  plains,  between  the  river  and  the 
distant  hills. 

Cotton  grows  well  and  yields  a  fair  quality  of  fiber,  but  as 
yet  it  has  not  been  planted  to  any  great  extent,  especially  since 
rubber  gathering  began  to  call  away  so  large  a  part  of  the  popu- 
lation. 

The  remains  of  the  American  colony  at  Santarem,  which  I 
visited,  however,  are  planting  cotton  and  are  bringing  from  the 
United  States  the  machinery  for  working  it  into  while  cotton 
cloth. 

The  experiment  is  being  tried  not  without  some  misgivings, 
and  with  a  good  outlay  of  American  pluck  that  has  already  braved 
unnumbered  difficulties  in  many  new  and  untried  industries,  only 
to  find  that  most  of  them  had  some  drawback  that  made  them 
impracticable. 

It  will  be  remembered  that  the  American  colony  at  Santarem 
was  composed  of  southerners,  principally  from  Alabama  and 
Mississippi,  who  came  out  to  Brazil  at  the  close  of  the  civil  war 
and  settled  at  Santarem,  a  most  beautiful  location,  five  hundred 
miles  up  the  Amazon  at  the  mouth  of  the  Tapajos  River,  but  it 
has  not  been  a  success,  notwithstanding  the  favorable,  if  not  flat- 
tering, reports  that  were  published  by  the  Scribners  in  regard 
to  the  enterprise. 

As  these  Americans  were  located  within  my  consular  district 
I  had  every  opportunity  for  getting  the  dark  side  of  their  experi- 
ences. Everything  is  done  differently  in  Amazonia  than  with 
us,  the  climatic  conditions  requiring  this. 

An  immigrant  would  have  to  learn  everything  from  the  be- 
ginning, and  the  probabilities  are  that  he  will  "die  a  learning," 
as  the  Brazilians  say.  One  thing  is  pretty  sure.  If  he  doesn't 
learn  quickly  and  does  not  possess  a  faculty  of  adapting  himself 
gracefully  to  adverse  circumstances,  he  will  soon  declare  Ama- 
zonia to  be  the  most  God  forsaken  land  under  the  sun,  notwith- 
standing its  rich  soil,  warm  climate  and  immense  resources. 


CHAPTER    XXI. 

FIESTA    OF    NAZARETH. 

NE  of  the  most  interesting  of  the  many 
reHgious  festivals  is  that  of  "our  Blessed 
Lady  of  Nazareth,"  the  patron  saint  of 
Para. 

Though  unfamiliar  with  the  early 
history  of  this  favorite  saint,  I  bear  will- 
ing testimony  to  the  universal  and  joyous 
observance  of  the  anniversary  fiesta  in  one 
of  which  I  became  a  happy  participator.  The  tradition  is  that, 
ever  so  many  hundred  years  ago.  Our  Lady  of  Nazareth  per- 
formed some  astonishing  miracles,  such  as  the  rescuing  of  ship- 
wrecked Portuguese  mariners,  the  healing  of  lepers,  and  I  believe 
also  the  raising  from  the  dead. 

As  she  continues  to  exercise  this  godly  supervision  over  Para, 
it  goes  without  saying  that  our  lady  is  a  prime  favorite  and  re- 
ceives as  great  adoration  of  those  who  worship  her  as  does  the 
Virgin  Mary. 

The  evening  previous  to  the  beginning  of  the  fiesta,  a  pro- 
cession or  rather  a  surging  mob,  composed  of  the  half  dressed, 
dark  skinned  populace  of  the  lower  class,  escort  from  the  church 
in  Nazareth  to  the  bishop's  church  of  old  Para,  a  distance  of 
two  and  a  half  miles,  the  effigy  representing  Our  Lady  of  Naza- 
reth in  the  diminished  caricature  of  an  overdressed  modern  doll 
baby. 

This  doll  being  ceremoniously  deposited  with  the  bishop,  the 
crowd  disperses  to  spend  the  night  in  preliminary  enjoyment. 
Early  the  following  morning  the  populace,  to  the  number  of  at 
least  fifty  thousand  persons,  attired  in  all  sorts  of  gala  holiday 
costumes,  assemble  at  the  bishop's  church  to  take  part  in  the  grand 
escort  accompanying  the  return  of  the  doll  to  the  Nazareth  church. 


CHRIST  OF  THE  ANDES. 
P>om   a   photograph   taken   on    the   day   of   unveiling,    ^^arch    lo,    1004. 

This  colossal  bronze  statue   stands  on  the   summit  of  the  Andes, 

three  miles  above  sea  level.     The  inscription  on  its  base  is  as 

follows:  "Sooner  shall  these  mountains  crumble  into  dust 

than    Chileans    and    Argentines    shall    break   the    peace 

which,   at   the   feet   of   Christ,  the   Redeemer,   thej' 

have   sworn  to  maintain." 

Sculptor,  Mateo  Alonso,  a  young  native  of  Argentina. 


FIESTA   OF    NAZARETH.  209 

During  this  day  all  business  in  Para  is  suspended,  the  streets 
through  which  the  procession  passes  are  profusely  decorated,  the 
windows,  doors  and  balconies  being  occupied  by  the  more  refined 
people.  Everybody  from  the  governor  down  to  the  humblest 
native,  dresses  in  his  best. 

The  military,  with  brass  band,  accompany  the  surging 
mob,  who  crowd  along  the  narrow  streets  all  seeming  to  be  anx- 
ious to  get  as  near  as  possible  to  the  carriage  of  state  in  which  a 
priest  rides,  carrying  in  his  hands  the  huge  doll,  which  he  holds 
up  to  view  to  the  intense  gratification  of  the  populace. 

The  carriage  is  drawn  by  men  and  women,  it  being  accorded 
a  special  privilege  to  be  selected  to  take  hold  of  the  long  rope. 

Immediately  following  the  effigy  comes  a  ghastly,  and  at  the 
same  time  ridiculous,  feature  of  the  odd  display,  in  the  way  of 
models  of  widely  different  characters  intended  to  represent  the 
numerous  miracles  or  cures  that  have  been  performed  by  this 
saint. 

Next  comes  a  lifeboat,  said  to  be  the  identical  craft  in  which 
the  ten  mariners  were  preserved  for  many  weeks  without  food 
or  water  and  finally  guided  by  the  unseen  lady  to  Para. 

A  coffin  or  two  which  are  carried  along  with  the  procession 
are  intended  to  prove  that  the  former  occupants  were  raised  from 
the  dead.  But  the  most  remarkable  exhibit  is  the  great  number 
of  wax  models  of  arms,  legs,  and  heads  exposed  to  the  hot  sun 
which  almost  melts  them  over  the  bareheaded  men  and  women 
that  carry  them.  Each  model  is  molded  and  painted  in  colors  in 
a  ghastly  way,  to  represent  the  horrible  and,  some  cases  truly  dis- 
gusting sores,  of  which  they  were  cured  by  this  good  saint.  A 
room  adjoining  the  church  is  used  as  an  anatomical  museum, 
wherein  these  models  are  deposited  or  melted  down  for  future  use. 

The  better  class  of  devotees  ride  in  carriages  in  which  are 
carried  little  Nazareth  saints,  numerous  children  dressed  in  virgin 
white;  dark  skinned  pickaninny  angels,  with  quivering  uncertain 
wings,  sky  blue  stockings  and  red  shoes,  carrying  in  their  hands 
religious  emblems. 


During  the  carnival,  ladies  and  gentlemen  of  the  best  family  connec- 
tion who  seldom  appear  in  public,  wear  the  fancy  dress  and 
mask  at  the  several  balls  in  the  large  Theatre  de  Paz. 


FIESTA   OF    NAZARETH.  211 

On  each  occurrence  of  this  anniversary,  which  is  happily 
arranged  for  that  season  of  the  year  when  the  rains  are  less  fre- 
quent than  at  other  times,  the  people  of  Para  of  the  better  class 
who  do  not  take  an  active  part  in  the  religious  festivities  make  it 
the  occasion  for  a  general  interchange  of  good  feeling,  pretty 
much  as  with  us  during  Christmas  holidays. 

It  is  the  only  week  of  the  year  when  it  is  permissible  for 
ladies  to  appear  at  night  unattended  by  their  parents. 

The  large  square  in  front  of  the  Nazareth  church  is  filled  with 
fancy  booths,  gaily  decorated,  in  which  all  manner  of  holiday 
wares  are  exhibited  and  most  vociferously  auctioned  off.  A  ma- 
jority are  gambling  booths.  No  attempt  is  made  to  conceal  the 
almost  universal  practice,  from  which  source  the  church  is  sup- 
posed to  profit. 

Bands  play  alternately  in  different  parts  of  the  grounds.  Plat- 
forms are  erected  on  which  the  natives  dance  to  the  monotonous 
tom-tom  of  the  tambourine. 

The  houses  of  residents  fronting  this  square  are  always  leased 
or  opened  to  the  public  on  this  occasion,  and  are  usually  occupied 
as  restaurants  or  used  for  refreshments  or  gambling  purposes. 

The  brilliantly  lighted  square — enlivened  with  music  from 
the  lively  booths  and  the  noisy  but  happy  attendants  enjoying  the 
delightful  promenade  on  the  broad  stone  sidewalk,  make  a  charm- 
ing spectacle.  Here  the  ladies  of  the  better  classes  are  on  this 
occasion  at  liberty  to  walk  with  gentlemen,  who  thus  have  the 
opportunity  once  a  year  to  make  love  to  the  pretty  senhoras  while 
promenading  under  wide  spreading  mango  trees,  or  sitting  under 
the  tall,  graceful  palms  inhaling  the  fragrance  of  the  cinnamon 
or  the  perfume  of  the  tropical  flowers  wafted  on  the  heavy  air 
from  the  neighboring  gardens. 

It  is  a  scene  that  I  cannot  accurately  describe.  The  happy 
memory  remains  as  a  lasting  impression  on  my  mind.  With  all 
the  discomforts  of  a  life  in  that  region  one  becomes  so  fascinated 
by  the  recollection  that  he  longs  to  repeat  the  happy  experience 
of  the  Nazareth  fiesta. 


212  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

Of  course,  the  baron's  pretty  daughter,  as  the  acknowledged 
belle  of  Para,  circulated  during  these  fiesta  evenings,  always  ac 
companied  by  a  bevy  of  her  dark  eyed  associates,  with  whom  she 
had  attended  school  in  Lisbon  and  Paris.  It  was  on  these  glad 
occasions  that  she  so  sweetly  smiled  upon  the  forlorn  consul 
Americano  and  in  her  ladylike  manner  made  him  feel  quite  at 
home  in  the  crowd. 

Here  also  I  was  privileged  to  promenade  almost  nightly  with 
the  pretty  Zeta  on  one  arm  and  her  sister  Zizi  on  the  other,  while 
the  charming  Ninita,  on  the  arm  of  a  banker  friend,  was  always 
near  enough  to  interpret  for  me. 

I  could  not  talk  love  in  the  limpid  Portuguese  to  these  sen- 
horas ;  at  least  they  laughed  at  my  attempts  and  pretended  not  to 
understand  my  English,  but  I  am  quite  sure  they  knew  very  well 
what  I  tried  to  say.  I  really  could  not  decide  which  of  the  two  I 
admired  most.  I  have  since  been  told  that  everyone  attending  the 
fiesta  was  as  uncertain  as  myself  as  to  which  of  the  many  sen- 
horas  the   consul  would  take  to  America. 

This  continued  free  advertising,  of  course,  made  the  consul 
somewhat  notorious  in  Para.  When  walking  along  the  streets 
people  would  stop  and  turn  around  to  look  at  the  terrible  "O 
Consul  Americano." 

Whenever  the  consul  attended  a  theatre  or  a  ball,  he  became 
in  a  sense  the  "observed  of  all  observers."  I  do  not  refer  to  this 
in  any  spirit  of  vanity  because,  as  a  matter  of  fact,  I  was  being 
severely  criticized. 


CHAPTER    XXII. 


A  NIGHT  ON  THE  AMAZON   WITH  THE  BOYS. 

HAT  "comparisons  are  odious"  is  a  cor- 
rect saying  I  realized  by  making  myself 
odious  through  publishing  as  a  disinter- 
ested journalist,  by  way  of  contrast 
with  the  Brazilian  Sunday  excursion,  a 
truthful  account  of  a  night  party  on  the 
river,  with  a  delegation  of  foreigners. 
It  had  been  generally  announced 
that  on  the  arrival  of  the  new  steamer 
Seguranca,  of  the  United  States  and 
Brazil  Mail  Steamship  Company,  commonly  known  as  the  Ameri- 
can Line,  there  was  to  be  given  a  grand  reception  on  board. 

The  talk  on  the  part  of  the  manager,  during  the  days  pre- 
vious to  the  arrival  of  the  Seguranca,  was  emphatic  and  loud  to 
the  effect  that  "We  Americans  are  going  to  show  these  people 
how  to  do  things  up  in  style." 

The  governor  and  staff,  as  well  as  the  municipal  officials  and 
ladies,  the  prominent  merchants  and  shippers  were  to  be  taken 
out  to  the  new  steamer  on  a  chartered  tug,  with  the  usual  display 
of  bunting,  and  brass  band  accompaniments,  and  we  were  to  sit 
down  to  an  informal  banquet. 

In  anticipation  of  the  grand  event,  I,  as  an  American  deeply 
interested  in  the  success  of  a  specially  American  display,  laid  my 
plans  carefully  for  a  happy  evening,  and,  in  fact,  I  enclosed  to 
the  baron  a  written  invitation  for  himself  and  his  charming  daugh- 
ter to  become  the  guest  of  the  "Consul  Americano,"  on  board  of 
the  American  ship. 

I  laid  awake  at  night  thinking  over  the  good  time  I  should 
have,  as  the  favored  escort  of  the  beautiful  senhorita,  on  this 
occasion,  of  how  I  should  sit  by  her  at  the  banquet  and  talk  of  the 


214  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

good  things  we  had  to  eat  in  America,  of  which  this  was  only  a 
sample  of  the  "joys  we  have  tasted"  in  the  way  of  oysters,  ice 
cream  and  soda  water. 

Imagine  my  discomfiture  on  being  advised,  the  day  previous 
to  the  arrival  of  the  much  talked  about  American  ship,  that  the 
proposed  reception  on  board  had  been  declared  off. 

In  this  case  the  agent  had  reckoned  without  his  host,  as  the 
captain  of  the  Seguranca  had  cabled  from  a  lower  port  a  message 
that  scattered  cold  water,  instead  of  champagne,  on  the  proposed 
guests. 

The  explanation  was  ofifered  that,  on  account  of  her  limited 
stay  in  this  port,  the  entertainment  was  to  be  postponed  to  a  later 
date. 

Though  no  announcement  had  been  made  in  the  press  con- 
cerning the  entertainment,  the  fact  of  the  postponement  being 
published  as  a  card,  it  seemed  to  excite  the  curiosity  of  those 
meddlesome  people  who  want  to  know  the  why  and  wherefore 
of  everything. 

It  was  the  general  comment  that  the  American  steamer  was 
being  pushed  by  one  of  the  English  ships  which  was  following  her 
up  the  coast,  and  hoped  to  reach  Para  in  her  company  and  take 
cargo  away  from  her,  and  race  with  her  from  Para  to  New  York. 

The  English  ship  was  the  Paraense  which  had  been  described 
as  one  of  the  "tramps."  Though  twenty-one  years  old,  she  was 
considered  to  be  a  fast  old  girl ;  and,  in  fact,  the  race  did  come 
ofY,  and  the  American  beat  the  tramp  in  a  race  of  three  thousand, 
three  hundred  miles,  arriving  in  quarantine  only  two  hours  ahead 
of  her,  though  both  sailed  out  of  the  Amazon  together.  The 
American  made  three  stops  on  this,  her  first  voyage,  and  perhaps 
did  not  do  her  best. 

Notwithstanding  the  "postponement,"  a  number  of  choice 
spirits  of  the  town,  composed  of  gentlemen  only,  including  the 
consul,  were  invited  aboard  in  the  evening. 

The  party  of  happy  and  companionable  fellowships,  required 
no  outside  stimulant  to  add  to  their  enjoyment. 


A  NIGHT  ON  THE  AMAZON.  215 

We  were  courteously  received  on  board  by  Captain  James  R. 
Beers,  who,  as  an  old  and  frequent  visitor  to  this  port,  is  well 
known  and  universally  popular. 

After  an  inspection  of  the  beautiful  ship,  the  elegance  of  her 
adornments  and  fittings  being  especially  admired  by  the  English 
gentlemen  of  our  party,  who  were  mostly  connoisseurs  in  this 
direction,  we  were  invited  to  the  luxuriously  furnished  saloon. 
Here  was  laid  before  us  a  lavish  abundance  and  variety  of  good 
things,  and  a  tasteful  display,  in  the  way  of  table  decorations, 
that  I  have  seldom  seen  equaled,  and  that  certainly  has  not  been 
excelled  at  that  port. 

It  was  my  good  fortune  to  be  seated  at  the  table  with  my 
good  Para  friend,  Chermont,  the  brother  of  the  governor.  As 
previously  stated,  this  gentleman  was  educated  at  Cornell  and 
speaks  English  perfectly. 

He  is  evidently  a  born  politician,  as  he  can  make  good 
speeches  on  the  spur  of  the  moment,  easier  than  any  Brazilian 
here,  and  that  is  saying  a  good  deal,  for  all  the  prominent  people 
are  speakers. 

I  supposed,  from  the  previous  postponement,  that  there  was 
to  be  merely  an  informal  lunch,  and  was  not  prepared  for  the 
"feast  of  reason  and  flow  of  soul"  thrust  upon  me. 

I  was  surprised  to  see  my  friend  Chermont  rise  in  his  place 
and,  with  glass  in  hand,  begin  to  speak  in  Portuguese.  In  a  mo- 
ment everything  in  the  crowded  dining  saloon,  where  the  lady 
passengers  also  sat  down  with  us,  became  hushed,  and  the  closest 
attention  was  given  to  the  handsome  Brazilian  orator.  I  did  not 
understand  a  single  word  he  said,  though  I  applauded  him  as 
vigorously  as  the  rest,  because  I  took  it  on  faith  as  good  talk, 
knowing  he  was  a  friend  of  America. 

The  little  ripple  of  excitement  that  followed  rather  increased 
my  appetite,  and  I  became  so  fleeply  immersed  in  the  enjoyment 
of  a  turkey  bone  that  I  failed  to  observe  that,  over  on  the  other 
side  of  the  saloon,  Captain  Beers  was  on  his  feet,  seemingly, 
talking.     But  Captain  Beers'  voice  on  the  bridge  in  a  storm  and 


2i6  AN   AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN   AMAZONIA. 

Captain  Beers  at  dinner,  in  the  presence  of  a  select  crowd  of 
ladies  and  gentlemen  around  his  own  table,  are  two  different 
persons. 

I  did  not  hear  a  word  he  uttered,  and  was  struggling  away 
at  the  bone,  when  my  vis-a-vis  observed : 

"Come;  that's  you." 

On  glancing  up,  I  was  surprised  to  see  that  Captain  Beers 
had  disappeared,  and  apparently  everybody  was  looking  at  me. 
Somebody  in  my  rear,  sotto  voce,  observed : 

"Get  up,  consul,  the  captain  calls  on  you  to  respond  to  Cher- 
mont's  toast." 

Others  alongside  added  encouragingly : 

"Chermont  paid  a  high  tribute  to  the  United  States,  and  you 
are  the  representative  at  this  place.  Now's  your  chance  to  dis- 
tinguish yourself.    Go  in,  old  boy." 

Well,  Great  Scott !  The  idea  of  my  making  a  speech,  and 
especially  of  such  an  unworthy  son  being  called  upon  publicly  to 
represent  our  great  government.  It  was  such  a  surprise  to  me  that 
it  completely  took  away  my  breath. 

I  merely  blushed  and  bowed,  but  was  too  badly  rattled  to 
trust  myself  on  my  feet;  and  muttered  that  I  couldn't  make  a 
speech,  even  if  I  were  on  the  gallows  and  my  life  were  to  be  saved 
by  such  an  effort. 

I  promised  to  write  them  one,  however,  and  I  am  now  trying 
to  keep  my  word. 

I  succeeded  in  preserving  the  dignity  of  the  position  by  a 
discreet  silence,  and  though  some  criticism  was  made  by  a  few 
who  perhaps  hoped  to  enjoy  a  failure,  and  my  refusal  to  talk  was 
commented  upon  as  being  exceptional,  etc.,  I  was  subsequently 
complimented  as  having  made  the  best  speech  of  the  many  that 
were  uttered  on  that  occasion. 

This  unexpected  demonstration  entirely  took  away  my  appe- 
tite. Indeed,  if  there  had  been  the  least  opportunity,  I  should  have 
been  tempted  to  run  away ;  but  we  were  out  on  the  river.  An 
escape  was  impossible,  and  I  sat  it  out  in  silence. 


Courtesy    i.f    Director-General   John    Barrett,    nf      I '.id  Ann  ru  an    rni..n. 


RUBBER  GATHERER'S  HOME  ON  THE  UPPER  AMAZOX. 


A  NIGHT  ON   THE  AMAZON.  217 

Not  succeeding  in  getting  the  new  consul  to  make  a  debut, 
the  leading  spirits  determined  that  somebody  should  pay  the  pen- 
alty of  a  speech  for  the  government,  and  called  upon  the  former 
vice-consul,  a  well  known  resident  of  Para.  This  gentleman  is 
always  present  at  such  affairs,  and  has  had  considerable  practice 
in  this  direction. 

He  was  so  astonished  and  overcome  by  this  spontaneous 
selection  as  second  choice  that  he  was  almost  too  full  for  utter- 
ance. However,  with  hands  resting  on  the  two  chairs  beside  him, 
he  succeeded  in  delivering  himself  of  a  speech. 

As  a  preliminary,  he  observed  that  he  was  no  longer  in  the 
"diplomatic  corps,"  and  did  not  think  that  he  should  be  called 
upon  to  do  the  talking,  especially  as  he  was  not  a  politician,  but 
only  one  of  the  boys,  ready  to  do  his  part,  etc. 

This  rather  weak  attempt  at  sarcasm  served  to  loosen  my 
tongue  sufficiently  to  permit  me  to  say,  sotto  voce,  that  it  was  too 
bad  he  had  been  serving  in  the  nominal  position  of  a  vice-consul 
for  six  years,  under  the  false  impression  that  he  was  in  the  diplo- 
matic corps,  and  that  he  had  demonstrated  before  these  people 
that  he  was  a  better  politician  than  I,  as  he  could  make  a  speech 
and  I  could  not. 

When  he  sat  down,  apparently  exhausted  by  the  effort,  the 
boys  spontaneously  broke  the  heavy  silence  that  followed  by  sing- 
ing the  sad  refrain,  to  the  familiar  tune  of  "We  won't  go  home 
till  morning." 

"Oh,  he  was  a  jolly  good  fellow, 
He  was  a  jolly  good  fellow. 
He  was  a  jolly  good  fellow. 
And  Jingo  was  his  name. 
Boo  boo  bah." 

All  joined  in  this  chorus,  and  for  awhile  the  cabin  of  the 
good  ship  rang  with  the  merry  bass  voices  of  the  boys,  no  doubt 
to  the  astonishment  of  the  ladies. 

After  a  number  of  toasts  had  been  drunk,  and  speeches  made 
by  nearly  all  who  were  present,  the  crowd  adjourned  to  the  cap- 
tain's room,  for  a  smoke. 


2i8  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL    IN    AMAZONIA. 

The  captain's  cabin,  in  this  ship,  is  a  large  and  luxuriously 
furnished  room  in  the  forward  part  of  the  deck.  Here  the  jolly 
Captain  Beers  was  on  deck  and  himself  again,  and  right  royally 
and  courteously  did  he  entertain  his  guests  in  his  own  room. 

It  goes  without  saying  that  Captain  Beers  has  more  good 
friends  in  Para  than  even  his  steamship  company,  especially  among 
the  Brazilians,  as  well  as  with  the  foreigners,  and  the  many  ex- 
pressions of  good  will  to  him  come  from  sincere  hearts. 

It  would  be  unfair  to  attempt  to  describe  too  minutely  the 
many  funny  and  jolly  scenes  that  were  enacted  on  the  deck  of 
the  Seguranca  that  night,  on  the  bosom  of  the  broad  Amazon. 

Old  men,  whose  heads  were  gray,  and  who  at  home  or  in 
business  afifairs  were  severely  dignified,  became  as  little  children, 
and  toasted  indiscriminately  with  the  "boys"  who  may  have  been 
their  clerks. 

There  was  only  the  southern  moon  to  look  on  our  pranks 
and,  by  the  way,  the  moon  is  one  of  the  best  things  they  have  in 
Para.    Like  the  sun,  it  is  very  close  to  us. 

While  in  the  captain's  room,  I  discovered  that  the  jolly  tar 
wore  on  his  coat  lapel  the  .small  buttons  of  the  G.  A.  R.  and  Loyal 
Legion. 

These  emblems  are  common  in  our  country,  but  here,  on  the 
Amazon  river,  three  thousand  miles  away  from  home,  I  had  found 
a  new  charm  in  the  little  emblems.  The  old  veteran  sailor  we 
were  honoring  was  a  comrade,  and  under  such  impulses  as  those 
only  can  appreciate  who  have  served  in  a  war,  I  took  his  hand, 
and  pointing  to  the  badge  on  his  breast,  told  the  assembled  for- 
eigners that  they  were  being  entertained  by  an  American  noble- 
man ;  that  the  Loyal  Legion  button  on  his  coat  proved  that  his 
breast  had  been  bared  in  the  defense  of  his  country,  and  that  the 
only  aristocracy  we  had  was  that  which  entailed  the  privilege  to 
our  children  of  being  listed  on  this  grand  roll  of  honor. 

I  proposed  good  health  and  a  ha])py  old  age  to  Captain  Beers 
who  helped  to  save  his  country  and  is  now  again  serving  to  ad- 


A  NIGHT  ON  THE  AMAZON.  219 

vance  her  prosperity  as  the  commander  of  the  finest  American  ship 
carrying  the  American  flag  to  Para. 

"Ther€  are  bonds  of  all  sorts  in  this  world  of  ours, 
Fetters  of  friendship  and  ties  of  flowers, 

And  true  lovers'  knots,  I  ween ; 
The  boy  and  the  girl  are  bound  by  a  kiss ; 
But  there  was  never  a  bond,  dear  friends,  like  this: 

We  have  drunk  from  the  same  canteen." 

This  sort  of  thing  lasted  until  the  wee  small  hours,  just  before 
the  ship  sailed,  when  we  re-embarked  on  the  tug,  and,  with  cheers 
and  shouts,  parted  company. 

On  the  tug  there  was  a  grand  tumbling  match.  Dignified 
men  lay  down  on  the  deck  and  kicked  and  squalled  like  infants, 
that  sadly  needed  a  spanking.     Hats  were  thrown  about  as  balls. 

I  take  this  opportunity  to  say  that  the  better  class  of  the  for- 
eign element  of  Para  is,  with  some  exceptions,  composed  of  pleas- 
ant and  courteous  gentlemen ;  but  they  will  have  their  good  times 
without  regard  to  consequences,  and  it  is  this  fact  that  militates 
against  their  more  general  entry  into  the  genuine  Brazilian  society. 

Perhaps  they  do  not  care  for  this.  The  poor  fellows  who 
are  banished  here,  in  a  most  inhospitable  climate,  and  are  de- 
prived of  all  the  comforts  of  home  life,  and  have  to  pay  excessively 
for  the  mere  necessaries  of  life,  which  they  may  be  able  to  ex- 
tract from  a  miserable  existence  under  the  tropics,  are  to  be 
excused  for  occasional  indulgences  when  genial  spirits  from  God's 
country  visit  them. 

I  do  not  claim  by  any  means  to  be  a  model  and  am  not  ad- 
dicted to  dissipation,  but  I  confess  to  having  experienced,  when 
I  first  came  here,  an  inclination  toward  strong  drink,  such  as  I 
had  never  previously  felt  at  home,  which  seems  to  indicate  this 
appetite  is  peculiar  to  the  climate  and  surroundings. 

Probably  it  came  from  a  desire  to  drown  one's  sense  of 
loneliness,  and  of  exile,  by  the  use  of  stimulants,  but  in  this 
climate  it  is  very  dangerous  to  indulge  in  alcoholic  spirits. 


^r2 

1 

1 

1 

iim 

CHAPTER    XXIII. 

RUBBER,  CACAO  AND  S.  S.   SUBSIDIES. 

tiOSE  who  have  read  these  pages  will  nat- 
urally wonder  why  it  is  that  so  many  people 
contrive  to  live  in  what  seems  to  be  so  un- 
desirable a  location,  when  it  is  known  that 
there  are  plenty  of  other  more  agreeable 
and  healthful  lands  in  South  America. 

The  reason  may  be  summed  up  in  the 
one  expressive,  if  inelegant  word,  "lucre," 
filthy  lucre,  or  greed  of  gain. 

Precisely  the  same  incentive  is  bringing  and  keeping  people 
in  this  country  that  made  them  brave  dangers  and  overcome  ob- 
stacles in  their  early  efiforts  to  seek  the  gold  fields  of  California, 
in  1849. 

It  is,  in  a  manner,  the  enterprising  element  in  human  nature 
that  has  more  recently  populated  the  scrub  hemlock  counties  of 
Pennsylvania. 

In  one  case  the  attractive  magnet  was  the  golden  ores  hidden 
in  the  bowels  of  the  earth,  or  in  the  beds  of  the  rivers;  in  the 
other,  the  gas  wells  on  the  bleak  hills  became  the  ignis  fatuus  that 
lured  the  seekers  for  sudden  wealth. 

In  the  Amazon  valley  it  is  neither  gold  nor  gas  nor  oil,  though 
it  is  predicted  that  in  time  the  rich  deposits  of  gold  and  diamonds 
in  the  foothills  of  the  Andes,  in  Para,  Venezuela  and  Bolivia,  will 
attract  to  those  now  unknown  regions  a  class  of  earnest,  fearless 
and  determined  people  who  will  penetrate  the  two  thousand  miles 
of  almost  unknown  interior,  and  become  the  Argonauts  of  South 
America,  and  make  a  California  of  the  western  inland  slopes  of 
the  continent. 


RUBBER,   CACAO,    AND    S.    S'.    SUBSIDIES.  221 

The  objective  in  the  Amazon  valley  is  india  rubber,  a  most 
valuable  product,  indigenous  to  the  forests  of  the  equator  only, 
the  demand  for  which  in  this  electric  age  is  increasing,  perhaps 
beyond  the  supply. 

In  addition  to  its  indispensable  use  as  an  insulator  in  all  sorts 
of  electric  plants,  it  enters  largely  into  the  manufacture  of  various 
descriptions  of  useful  articles  of  trade,  art  and  mechanics,  and 
especially  in  the  manufacture  of  bicycle  and  automobile  tires. 

Indeed,  if  my  readers  will  look  about  them  while  perusing 
these  pages,  they  will  most  likely  discover  some  household  neces- 
sity in  which  either  hard  or  soft  rubber  is  used. 

There  is  an  important  distinction,  however,  that  will  be  ob- 
served between  the  hunt  for  crude  rubber  and  that  for  gold  and 
oil.  One  does  not  have  to  bore  deeply  for  this  product,  and  there 
are  no  "dry  holes"  in  Amazonian  valleys. 

Figuratively  speaking,  the  gold  grows  on  the  trees  of  this 
rich  valley.  All  that  is  necessary  is  to  penetrate  the  dense  forests 
and  tap  the  trunk  of  the  tree,  with  a  hatchet  for  a  wand,  and  the 
liquid  gold,  like  oil,  and  without  any  labor,  almost  magically  drains 
into  the  clay  receptacle;  at  least,  so  say  those  who  have  never 
tried  it.  But  the  rubber  gatherer  who  has  to  rise  before  daylight. 
and  trudge  barefoot  through  swamp  and  cane  brake,  at  times  up 
to  his  waist  in  water  and  often  knee  deep  in  the  ooze  of  the  tides, 
or  the  mud  of  the  swamps,  a  journey  of  five  miles,  more  or  less, 
before  breakfast,  to  tap  his  one  or  two  hundred  trees,  soon  realizes 
that  he  earns  all  he  gets. 

It  is  coagulated  by  dipping  a  wooden  paddle  in  the  pail  of 
liquid  rubber  and  then  holding  it  in  the  dense,  black  smoke  of  the 
palm  tree  called  "burity."  Thus  one  thin  layer  after  another  is 
added  to  the  paddle  until  a  ball  is  formed  looking  like  smoke 
cured  ham  in  shape,  which  weighs  from  five  to  fifty  pounds. 

The  forests  of  rubber  trees  are  said  to  be  practically  inex- 
haustible. There  are  thousands  of  miles  of  this  territory  which 
is  reached  by  rivers  that  are  navigable  by  large  ocean  vessels. 


One  method  of  tapping  the  rubber  tree,  practiced  principally  in  the 

upper   Amazon   region.     The  best  quality  of  rubber  is  obtained 

from    trees   growing   on   land   that    is    partially    swamp. 


RUBBER,    CACAO,    AND    S.    S.    SUBSIDIES.  223 

For  a  full  account  of  rubber  industry  the  reader  is  referred 
to  the  United  States  government  reports. 

To  collect  the  crude  rubber  from  the  territory  reached  by  the 
fifty  thousand  miles  of  inland  navigation,  as  well  as  to  distribute 
necessary  supplies  received  in  exchange  for  it,  has  developed  a 
most  extensive  system  of  river  and  ocean  transportation. 

The  major  portion  of  this  inland  service  has  been  acceptably 
performed  for  many  years  by  the  Amazon  Steam  Navigation 
Company,  Limited,  an  English  corporation  capitalized  at  six  hun- 
dred and  twenty-five  thousand  pounds  sterling. 

This  company  is  managed  by  English  gentlemen,  who,  by  long 
residence  here,  have  become  familiar  with  the  trade. 

The  principal  managers  are  Captains  Hudson  and  '  Pontet 
assisted  by  Mr.  Melville  Marrack,  a  most  courteous  young  gen- 
tleman, to  whom,  with  Captain  Pontet,  I  was  indebted  for  numer- 
ous courtesies  gracefully  extended  to  a  stranger  in  a  strange  land. 

"Competition  is  the  life  of  trade,"  it  being  freely  conceded 
that  any  sort  of  "subsidy"  policy  that  tends  toward  fostering  a 
monopoly  will  have  the  result  of  injuring  American  trade  in 
Brazil. 

I  beg  to  repeat  that  that  part  of  northern  Brazil  known  as 
Amazonia,  which  is  geographically  and  commercially  the  closest 
to  us,  comprises  an  area  equal  in  extent  to  that  of  the  United 
States  east  of  the  Rocky  Mountains. 

Large  ocean  steamers  ascend  the  Amazon  over  three  thousand 
miles,  to  the  base  of  the  Andes,  in  Peru,  delivering  their  cargoes 
almost  at  the  doors  of  the  merchants,  and  carrying  away  the  val- 
uable natural  products  of  the  valley,  viz.,  rubber  and  cocoa. 

Practically  nothing  else  is  produced  in  this  large  section  which 
nature  supplies  so  bountifully  with  a  rich  soil,  humidity  and  heat, 
because  the  business  of  collecting  the  rubber  is  so  profitable  that 
all  labor  is  diverted  in  that  direction.  Everything  necessary  to 
sustain  civilized  life  is  imported  generally  from  Europe,  while 
America  takes  the  bulk  of  the  exports. 


The  Hevea  rubber,  known  commercially  as  "Para,"  which  averages 

50  per  cent,  higher  in   value,  and  also  in  production,  than 

"Centrals,"    is    indigenous    to    the    Amazon    and    the 

numerous  tril)Ut;irics  arising  in  Bolivia  and  Peru. 


RUBBER,   CACAO,   AND   S.    S.   SUBSIDIES.  225 

Not  an  American  steamer  ascends  the  Amazon  above  Para. 
The  enormous  trade  of  the  valley  is  developed  by  English  com- 
panies, principally  the  Amazon  company,  which,  fostered  as  a 
local  enterprise,  confines  its  business  to  the  river  transportation. 

The  American  companies  call  at  Para  at  long  and  irregular 
intervals,  en  route  to  and  from  Rio  and  New  York.  The  British 
Red  Cross  and  Booth  Steamship  Companies  extend  their  com- 
merce from  Manaos,  a  thousand  miles  up  the  Amazon,  direct  to 
Europe  and  the  United  States. 

These  English  companies  are  well  managed  in  the  interests 
of  shippers  in  northern  Brazil  to  and  from  Europe  and  the  United 
States,  and  are  in  no  sense  "tramps,"  as  has  been  erroneously 
stated  in  a  government  publication. 

Each  of  the  two  has  been  engaged  in  exclusive  trade  with 
northern  Brazil  for  a  number  of  years.  They  do  not  receive 
any  subsidies  from  the  English  government,  nor  from  the  general 
government  of  Brazil.  Each,  however,  has  contracts  with  the 
state  government  of  Amazonas,  of  which  Manaos  is  the  capital, 
entitling  them  to  certain  sums  per  year ;  but,  as  a  matter  of  fact, 
no  cash  is  paid  to  the  companies,  the  conditions  of  the  contract 
being  such  that  the  balance  is  generally  against  the  steamship 
companies. 

The  Booth  line,  which  is  owned  in  Liverpool  and  ably  man- 
aged in  Brazil  by  J\Ir.  Guilhame  Purcell,  extends  direct  from 
Manaos  to  New  York,  via  Para,  is  entitled  to  a  subsidy  of  forty- 
eight  thousand  milreis  per  year.  For  this  they  are  obliged  to  per- 
form twelve  round  trips  a  year  between  New  York  and  Manaos. 

They  also  have  to  carry  free  on  each  voyage,  the  mail,  three 
tons  of  state  cargo,  three  first-class  and  six  third-class  govern- 
ment passengers.  It  will  be  observed  that  the  Brazilian  state  gov- 
ernment of  Amazonas  gets  full  benefit  for  their  promised  subsidy. 

They  are  required  to  carry  all  state  cargo,  exceeding  three 
tons,  at  twenty  per  cent,  reduction  from  their  tariflf  rates. 

They  must  maintain  a  fixed  tarifif  for  freight  and  passengers, 
approved  by  the  government. 


The   "Castiloa"   is   the    second    grade   of    rubber,    found    m    Central 

America   and    Mexico,   known    commercially    as    "Centrals,' 

corresponding    to    the    "Caucho"    of    Peru. 


RUBBER,    CACAO,   AND   S.    S.    SUBSIDIES.  227 

The  penalities  are  so  severe  and  the  requirements  so  exacting 
that  the  steamship  officers  do  not  hesitate  to  say  that  they  would 
be  better  ofif  without  any  subsidies. 

Heavy  fines  are  imposed  for  the  nonperformance  of  any  con- 
tract voyage,  and  a  loss  of  the  contract  if  the  voyages  are  inter- 
rupted more  than  three  times  in  succession.  Smaller  infractions 
are  subject  to  lighter  penalties. 

The  steamers  in  contract  voyages,  enjoy  packet  privileges, 
but  pay  all  the  exorbitant  taxes  and  port  dues  demanded  in  Brazil. 
Substantially  the  same  conditions  were  formerly  required  in  the 
contract  with  the  Red  Cross  line,  which  extends  from  Manaos 
direct  to  Europe,  but  that  company  now  runs  its  ships  to  a  better 
advantage  without  the  subsidies. 

The  state  government  pays  no  cash,  but  in  settlement  of  any 
balances  they  tender  what  is  known  here  as  "titulas,"  receivable 
for  state  dues. 

It  will  be  seen,  therefore,  that  the  "subventions,"  as  the  Eng- 
lish call  their  subsidies,  are  not  of  any  material  benefit.  The  com- 
panies have  sustained  their  lines  for  some  years  by  the  good, 
hard  cash  freight  rates  paid  by  American  shippers  of  rubber. 
The  freight  rate  on  rubber  from  Para  to  New  York  is  twenty- 
five  cents  and  five  per  cent  primage  per  cubic  foot,  delivered 
in  New  York.  This  is  equivalent  to  about  four-fifths  of  a  cent 
per  pound. 

Unlike  coffee  or  sugar  from  the  lower  provinces,  crude  rub- 
ber is  a  safe  freight;  that  is,  it  is  not  liable  to  any  sea  damage  in 
transportation,  and  the  rates  charged  are  out  of  all  proportion 
to  the  values. 

A  rough  box  containing  rubber  is  eleven  and  three-quarter 
cubic  feet  in  small  sizes,  or  twenty-four  cubic  feet  in  large  sizes. 
These  can  be  safely  stowed,  and  make  what  is  known  as  good, 
solid  cargo. 

There  is  sufficient  business  from  the  Amazon  to  require 
all  the  ten  steamers  of  the  Booth  and  Red  Cross  lines,  in  addition 
to  the  five  American  steamers  which  call  at  Para  at  irregular 
intervals  en  route,  from  the  south  to  New  York,  and  vice  versa. 


228  AX    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

I  believe  that  the  United  States,  known  as  the  American  Hne, 
received  a  subsidy  from  the  Rio  government  equal  to  six  thousand 
dollars  per  voyage,  or  double  that  paid  the  English  steamers. 
They  are  so  economically  managed  in  the  way  of  speed  that  they 
do  not  exceed  ten  miles  per  hour,  at  the  cost  of  four  hundred 
dollars  per  day  for  running  expenses.  It  has  been  estimated 
that  their  profits  on  some  voyages  exceed  twenty  thousand  dol- 
lars per  round  trip. 

Substantially  this  so-called  United  States  line  is  a  Brazilian 
line,  as  their  contracts  with  the  Brazilian  government  are  so  bind- 
ing that  they  are  under  their  close  supervision,  and  in  case  of  war 
they  at  once  become  Brazilian  transports,  and  sail  under  the  yel- 
low and  green  flag  of  that  republic.  These  American  steamers 
do  not  carry  any  United  States  government  freight  free. 

It  is  a  common  observation  here  that  the  passenger  list  of 
the  new  American  line  was  largely  made  up  of  our  ministers 
plenipotentiary  and  their  ladies  and  attaches,  consuls  and  ex- 
consuls  and  families  and  a  large  sprinkling  of  missionaries,  but 
very  few  business  people  to  introduce  reciprocity.  Probably 
some  of  these  passengers  secure  reduced  rates  as  "complimen- 
taries"  or  as  "charities,"  on  a  "reciprocity"  basis. 

What  Para  and  the  Amazon  urgently  require  is  more  frequent 
and  regular  ocean  communication  with  the  United  States,  and 
there  seems  to  be  enough  business  to  sustain  the  demand. 

Competition  will  do  more  to  advance  American  trade  along 
the  Amazon,  than  subsidies.  As  illustrating  the  advantage  of 
several  lines  of  steamers,  I  call  attention  to  the  consular  reports 
from  Bahia,  a  city  on  the  Brazilian  coast  reached  by  one  Amer- 
ican steamship  only. 

Their  published  freight  charges  from  New  York  to  Bahia 
are  equal  to  those  of  Santos  and  Rio,  two  thousand  miles  further 
off,  but  there  is  competition  to  these  latter  ports  and  none  to 
Bahia. 

This  discrimination  compels  Bahia  merchants  to  import 
goods  from  Europe,  because  of  lower  freight  rates,  there  being 
competition,  between  the  English  lines. 


CHAPTER    XXIV. 

HISTORY    AND   RELIGION. 

iN  the  present  agitation  looking  toward 
the  estabHshment  of  closer  relations 
between  the  United  States  and  the 
Latin  American  republics  so  much  at- 
tention is  devoted  to  the  "commercial" 
features  that  social,  ethnological  and 
religious  conditions  are  overlooked. 

The  writer  ventures  the  opinion 
formed  from  close  observation,  that, 
to  accomplish  satisfactory  results  in 
our  dealings  with  those  countries; 
full  consideration  must  be  given  to  the  question  of  race  conditions 
and  religion. 

With  a  view  of  bringing  these  matters  home,  it  has  been 
my  purpose  to  describe  the  situation,  as  outlined  by  the  repro- 
duction of  the  following  pages,  published  some  time  ago,  but 
applicable  to  the  present. 

Brazilian  histories  say  that  the  discovery  of  Brazil  was  "by 
accident,"  but  taking  the  story  just  as  they  tell  it  themselves, 
it  looks  very  much  like  an  accident  done  on  purpose,  as  Pedro 
Alvares  Cabral,  when  he  left  Lisbon  for  the  Spice  Islands,  by 
way  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  was  empowered  to  preempt,  in 
the  name  of  the  Portuguese  sovereign,  any  new  worlds  he  might 
run  across  in  his  travels ;  and  he  gave  Africa  such  a  wide  berth 
that  he  touched  Brazil. 

This  happened  in  the  year  1500.  Porto  Seguro  was  his 
landing  place.  The  proper  thing  was  done.  He  went  ashore 
with  a  flag  and  a  cross,  stuck  them  in  the  ground,  had  mass  said 
to  solemnize  the  possession  in  the  name  of  Portugal  and  the 
church,  and  then  sailed  away. 


230  AN   AMERICAN   CONSUL   IN   AMAZONIA. 

The  picture  of  that  first  mass,  in  a  variety  of  conceptions, 
is  one  of  the  most  common  parlor  wall  decorations  and  school 
book  illustrations  in  Brazil. 

It  was  in  that  same  year  that  Vicente  Pincon  discovered  a 
"fresh  water  sea,"  from  which  he  filled  his  casks  while  still  out 
of  sight  of  land,  just  as  the  Brazilian  steamers  now  do,  with 
most  excellent    drinking  water. 

But  it  was  not  until  forty-one  years  later  that  the  Spaniard, 
Orellans,  drifted  down  the  mighty  stream  from  its  source  in 
Peru  and  claimed  the  Amazon  for  Spain. 

In  the  same  year  another  Spaniard,  Ignatius  Loyola,  was 
confirmed  by  the  Pope,  as  general  of  the  new  order  he  had  just 
formed,  called  the  Company  of  Jesus,  which  was  to  play  so  large 
a  part  in  conquering  the  new  world.  His  followers  were  the 
flowers  of  that  age,  picked  men,  heroes  in  perfect  keeping  with 
the  spirit  of  the  century  of  the  bloody  Spanish  inquisition, 
when  militar}^  and  religious  zeal  were  almost  identical. 

The  heroes  of  the  Luziad,  the  great  epic  poem  of  the  Portu- 
guese "went  spreading  faith  and  the  empire."  So  it  is  impossi- 
ble to  deny  that  the  military  religious  organization  of  Loyola, 
perhaps  floating  on  the  tidal  wave  of  military  power  that  inun- 
dated the  new  world,  played  a  most  important  part  in  the  civiliza- 
tion of  the  Amazon  valley,  yet  only  half  complete.  The  noble 
monuments  of  their  religio-bellicose  zeal,  valor  and  skill  are  still 
a  constant  surprise  to  the  traveler. 

Not  only  the  massive  architecture  they  left  there,  but  also 
the  peaceable,  civilized  and  half  civilized,  tribes  of  Indians  they 
left  in  place  of  the  cannibals  they  found,  and  the  tremendous 
superstitious  devotion  which  they  inspired  in  these  converted 
savages,  who  before  were  nearly  devoid  of  any  formal  religion, 
reveal  the  adamantine  convictions,  the  contagious  zeal,  and  the 
herculean  industry  and  courage  of  those  early  Portuguese  mis- 
sionaries. 

It  is  not  the  purpose  of  one  reared  a  Protestant  to  write  a 
eulogy  on  the  Jesuits.     The  order  seems  to  be  absolutely  out 


HISTORY    A\D    RELIGION.  231 

of  joint  with  what  is  natural  and  best  in  the  present  time,  but 
that  the  first  Jesuits  accompHshed  much  in  the  way  of  taming 
savage  human  nature  anrl  wild  forest  nature  is  a  well-established 
historic  fact. 

Theirs  is  an  imperishable  record  that  later  day  missionaries 
of  a  difi'erent  faith  can  scarcely  hope  to  overcome  by  proselytiz- 
ing. 

The  churches,  which  until  recently  have  been,  in  a  manner, 
subsidized  by  the  government,  are  large  and  on  the  whole  archi- 
tecturally superior  to  anything  w^e  have  in  the  United  States. 
Some  of  them  are  exceedingly  beautiful,  all  are  artistic. 

Indeed,  there  is  not  in  Washington  or  Philadelphia  or  Pitts- 
burg as  fine  a  Catholic  church  as  the  cathedral  at  Para,  which 
has  been  undergoing  restoration  for  the  past  ten  years.  Artists 
w^ere  brought  from  Italy  to  do  the  frescoing,  which  is  marvelously 
beautiful. 

There  certainly  is  exhibited  by  these  people  a  most  tasteful 
and  harmonious  blending  of  colors  and  designs,  that  creates  a 
pleasing  effect  upon  the  mind  of  a  beholder  while  within  the 
ambient  of  the  cathedral's  massive  walls,  even  though  he  be  a  dis- 
believer. 

Not  having  been  educated  a  Catholic,  I  am  unfamiliar  with 
their  numerous  symbols ;  but  I  can  comprehend  that  everything 
has  an  appropriate  significance.  And  I  am  glad  of  an  opportunity 
to  bear  my  testimony  as  a  noncatholic  to  their  good  works,  as  I 
have  seen  them. 

The  secretary  of  the  famous  one-man-and-his-wife  commis- 
sion which  recently  traveled  along  the  coast  of  South  America 
as  the  government's  disbursing  officer,  seemed  to  think  it  part 
of  his  duty  also  to  publish,  at  the  expense  of  the  United  States 
government,  all  the  threadbare  criticisms  or  scandals  that  he  could 
collect,  bearing  against  the  Roman  Catholic  Church,  which  is 
universally  recognized  as  the  religion  of  the  countries  they  were 
authorized  to  visit  in  the  interest  of  greater  American  inter- 
course. 


232  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

Besides  the  cathedral,  there  are  several  other  large  churches 
in  Para,  all  of  them  old ;  indeed  there  is  a  curious  looking  plaster- 
covered  brick  chapel  in  Para,  close  by  the  cathedral  and  in  the 
rear  of  the  government  palace,  called  St.  John's  church,  the  date 
of  the  construction  of  which  is  not  quite  certain ;  but  it  is  said 
to  be  the  oldest  church  building  in  South  America,  except  one 
in  Peru. 

The  abandoned  church  previously  mentioned,  once  the  prop- 
erty of  the  expelled  Jesuits,  was  confiscated  by  the  Marques  de 
Pombal  in  Portuguese  colonial  times,  and  has  been  closed  for  many 
years.  The  remainder  of  the  immense  edifice,  which  served  as 
a  monastery,  is  now  the  Custom  House.  The  bells  in  its  mas- 
sive tower  are  silent,  and  over  the  roof  and  wide  cornices  shrub- 
bery has  grown  to  the  height  of  three  feet. 

This  church  faces  my  lodging  from  the  other  side  of  the 
plaza,  and  every  night  can  be  distinctly  heard  the  voices  of  the 
owls  that  inhabit  its  weather-stained  belfry  tower.  I  often  quoted 
to   myself  the  words  of  Poe's  "Raven:" 

"Perched  above  my  chamber  door 
Quoth  the  raven  :  'Never  more.'  " 

There  is  a  legend  often  told,  and  firmly  believed  by  the  less 
educated  classes  of  Para,  that  there  are  many  subterranean  pas- 
sages leading  from  the  old  monastery  (now  Custom  House)  to 
different  parts  of  the  city,  and  that  by  these  secret  passages  the 
old  monks  used  to  visit  the  larger  and  smaller  seminaries,  and 
especially  the  convent  of  St.  Anthony.  Just  at  present  the  princi- 
pal, and  daily  services  are  held  in  the  Santa  Anna  Church,  which 
is  situated  in  the  very  midst  of  the  old  portion  of  the  city,  al- 
though it  enjoys  still  the  official  title  of  the  "country"  church  (da 
campina),  to  identify  it  with  that  part  of  the  territory,  while  still 
a  village. 

To  a  stranger,  unacquainted  with  the  customs  of  the  country, 
its  big  bells,  with  the  "ding-a-dong-dong"  Chinese  minstrel  like 
accompaniment  of  smaller  ones,  causes  a  peculiar  impression,  and 
they  seem  to  be  going  every  hour  of  the  day  from  early  morning 
till  bedtime. 


A    Brazilian    Saint   dressed    for   church. 


HISTORY   AND   RELIGION.  233 

My  first  Sunday  seemed  to  be  a  sort  of  a  festal  day,  and  busi- 
ness was  very  brisk  at  Santa  Anna  Church.  In  the  morning  I 
followed  the  crowd,  and  with  due  reverence  and  respect,  took  a 
standing  position  among  others  in  the  rear  of  the  church. 

The  altar  was  handsomely  decorated  with  flowers  and  bril- 
liantly lighted.  A  choir,  composed  probably  of  some  of  the 
opera  singers,  rendered  in  efifective  style  some  fine  devotional  mu- 
sic. The  tones  of  the  organ  were  full  and  round.  Altogether 
it  was  an  impressive  scene. 

On  the  brick  or  tile  floor,  in  front,  kneeling  before  the 
altar  were  numerous  attendants,  while  the  priests  ofBciated 
much  in  the  same  way  that  Roman  Catholics  do  all  over  the 
world. 

To  my  surprise,  a  band  near  the  entrance  played  lively  airs. 
It  looked  to  a  stranger  as  if  the  purpose  was  to  attract  a  crowd 
to  the  church,  on  the  same  principle  that  induces  our  cheap 
theaters  to  use  horns  and  drums  to  beat  up  a  crowd. 

I  learned,  upon  inquiry  of  a  prominent  Catholic,  that  the 
band  played  for  the  entertainment  of  the  people  outside  the 
church,  and  only  before  and  after  services. 

During  the  beautiful  ceremonials  incident  to  the  services 
of  the  church  here,  at  signals  from  the  altar,  on  the  elevation  of 
the  host,  numerous  rockets  are  fired  from  the  little  plaza  in  front 
of  the  church.  They  go  up  into  the  darkness  of  a  tropical  night 
with  a  whirl,  and  explode  with  a  tremendous  noise,  scattering 
vari-oolored  stars. 

A  Protestant  gentleman  said  these  were  prayers  being  fired 
to  heaven;  but  I  am  told  that  it  is  the  practice  thus  to  express 
joy  and  glorification,  this  method  being  the  most  impressive  cere- 
monial to  those  of  the  more  ignorant  worshippers,  a  large  propor- 
tion of  whom  are  of  Indian  ancestry,  with  a  mixture  of  African 
and  Portuguese. 

A  courteous  padre  from  the  island  of  Martinique,  with 
whom  I  became  well  acquainted,  laughed  heartily  when  I  ven- 
tured the  irreverent  suggestion  one  evening  as  we  stood  watching 


234  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

the  rockets  from  the  churches  in  different  sections  of  the  city, 
shooting  up  in  the  darkness,  that  I  thought  if  there  were  any 
angels  hovering  around  Para  they  would  be  frightened  away. 

They  fire  rockets  during  the  service  in  daytime  also,  when 
their  course  cannot  be  seen,  the  noise  of  the  explosion  only, 
reaching  the  worshippers. 

This  bombarding,  with  the  incessant  ringing  of  bells  which 
commences  at  early  messa  (mass)  is  rather  more  provocative 
of  profanity  than  of  devotion  on  the  part  of  the  foreign  resi- 
dents who  are  accustomed  to  a  Sunday  morning  sleep. 

The  bells  are  not  "rung"  as  with  us,  but  hammered  by  some 
half  naked  worshippers,  who  are  well  drilled  by  constant  prac- 
tice. They  stand  in  the  towers,  armed  with  hammers  in  both 
hands,  with  which  they  tap  the  different  bells,  creating  a  confused 
jingle  of  harsh  sounds  which  at  first  is  irritating,  but  after  a  while 
one  becomes  used  to  it,  as  they  do  to  the  yellow  fever,  and  rather 
misses  the  chimes  when  out  of  hearing. 

One  of  Bishop  William  Taylor's  self-supporting  missionaries, 
who  has  labored  in  this  field  for  ten  years,  says  in  one  of  his 
reports  to  his  church  in  America :  "The  use  of  rockets  and  brass 
band  music  is  an  integral  part  of  the  cultus  of  this  Roman 
Catholic  country.  There  is  a  wide  difference  between  that  Latin 
word  and  our  Anglo-Saxon  'worship,'  and  they  have  two  words 
for  the  two  things. 

"It  is  not  a  sufficient  explanation  to  say  that  the  fireworks 
and  brass  music  are  merely  used  to  attract  the  people,  though 
that  is  doubtless  the  prime  motive  on  the  part  of  the  priests.  The 
people  are  taught  to  believe  that  'pomp'  and  'imposing  ceremon- 
ies' and  'brilliant  festivals'  (words  employed  by  the  priests  them- 
selves) are  eminently  pleasing  to  the  various  patron  saints  to 
whom  they  look  for  favors. 

"With  some  exceptions,  of  course,  the  great  majority  of  the 
'religious'  people  here  do  not  carry  their  religion  further  than 
to  'keep  on  the  right  side'  of  their  favorite  saints,  and  have  as  good 
a  time  otherwise  as  possible  meanwhile. 


HISTORY   AND   RELIGION.  235 

"But  after  the  fireworks  and  music  and  other  festive  cere- 
monies, if  the  saint  fails  to  obtain  the  answer  to  prayers,  he 
often  has  to  take  a  whipping  or  be  hung  up  by  his  heels,  head 
downward  in  a  pail  of  water,  or  in  some  other  way  be  made  to 
feel  that  'one  good  turn  deserves  another.'  " 

The  latter  day  saint  speaks  from  an  actual  experience.  He 
considers  it  part  of  his  duty  as  a  so-called  "independent"  Amer- 
ican missionary  to  make  himself  pers.onally  obnoxious  to  the 
Roman  Catholic  populace  by  publicly  obtruding  himself,  and  pre- 
senting, in  season  and  out  of  season,  his  anti-Catholic  senti- 
ments. 

On  the  universally  observed  fiesta  of  Corpus  Christi  an  im- 
posing procession  passes  through  the  streets  of  the  city.  On  this 
occasion  the  independent  missionary  ostentatiously  occupied  a 
prominent  position  on  the  sidewalk,  about  which  were  thronged 
masses  of  the  worshipping  populace. 

Everyone  without  exception  uncovers  as  the  procession 
passes.  Most  of  the  ladies  either  kneel  or  reverently  cross  them- 
selves. 

The  "missionary"  however  took  this  opportunity  to  attempt 
to  harangue  the  people  in  a  loud  voice  on  their  idolatry,  illus- 
trating his  independence  by  refusing  to  take  off  his  hat.  This  act 
so  enraged  the  people  that  he  was  viciously  attacked,  and  severely 
punished,  and  might  have  been  killed  but  for  the  intervention 
of  some  Brazilian  merchants  who  hustled  the  badly  damaged 
preacher  into  one  of  their  shops  and  barred  the  doors  against 
the  mob. 

His  hat,  which  had  been  knocked  off,  was  used  as  a  foot 
ball,  and  the  exercise  of  kicking  it  in  the  streets  and  throwing  it 
into  the  air  seemed  somewhat  to  relieve  the  outraged  feelings  of 
the  mob. 

During  the  melee  one  of  the  converts,  rushing  to  the  con- 
sulate, breathlessly  told  of  the  assault  on  this  brother  American. 
I  realized  that  it  was  simply  an  attempt  to  make  a  martyr  of  him- 
self for  his  own  glorification  and  emolument. 


236  AN   AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

I  told  the  messenger  I  was  glad  of  it;  and  he  deserved  his 
punishment,  and  that  he  would  certainly  get  no  protection  from 
me.  This  was  evidently  an  unexpected  dashing  of  cold  water 
on  the  prostrate  missionary  who  had  expected  sympathy.  The 
American  consul  did  not  hesitate  to  take  off  his  hat  out  of  re- 
spect for  the  rites  of  the  church  of  the  country  to  which  he  was 
an  accredited  official. 

The  fact  that  Brazil  ever  since  its  discovery  has  been  subject 
to  the  Roman  Catholic  church  made  necessary  some  provision 
in  the  constitution  quite  different  from  anything  in  that  of  the 
United  States  of  America,  and  it  is  about  these  very  differences 
that  the  hottest  battles  will  be  waged  in  the  new  Republic.  Per- 
sonal and  religious  liberty  are  as  v/ell  guaranteed  by  the  constitu- 
tion of  Brazil  as  they  are  by  that  of  the  United  States. 

In  considering  this  question  it  should  be  remembered  that 
the  Roman  Catholic  Church  has  been  accustomed  to  receiving 
favors  from  the  government  in  Brazil,  and  so  demands  more 
from  the  new    republic  than  she  does  from  the  United  States. 

The  new  republic  says  "no,"  a  little  like  our  Puritan  reform- 
ers perhaps,  and  the  church  calls  it  persecution.  Self-defense  is 
the  duty  of  every  government,  and  that  is  just  what  the  proposed 
constitution  means  when  it  disfranchises  paupers,  illiterate  soldiers 
of  the  rank  and  file,  members  of  monastic  orders,  and  members 
of  companies,  congregations  or  communities  who  are  subject  to 
vows  of  obedience,  rules,  or  by-laws  which  amount  to  a  renun- 
ciation of  personal  liberty. 

The  section  of  the  proposed  constitution  entitled  "Declara- 
tion of  Rights"  not  only  prohibits  all  relations  between  church 
and  state,  but  also  guarantees  universal  liberty  of  worship,  makes 
civil  marriages  obligatory,  which  is  unusual  in  Latin  countries, 
and  provides  that  public  instruction  shall  be  secular,  and  grat- 
uitously secularizes  the  cemeteries ;  excludes  all  Jesuits  from 
Brazilian  territory,  and  forbids  the  founding  of  any  new  convents 
or  monastic  orders.  It  is  a  fearless  and  perfectly  unambiguous 
challenge  to  ultramontanism. 


HISTORY   AND   RELIGION.  237 

It  seems  more  than  probable  that  some  of  the  restrictions  will 
be  toned  down  a  little ;  for  example,  the  exclusion  of  the  Jesuits, 
and  the  disfranchising  of  the  clergy.  It  may  strike  the  reader 
as  rather  remarkable  that  these  antichurch  restrictions  were  voted 
into  the  new  constitution  by  those  who  profess  Catholicism. 

The  Brazilian  constitution  is  modeled  somewhat  after  that  of 
the  United  States  of  America.  The  terms  of  office  are  longer, 
that  of  president  being  six  years  instead  of  four.  Members  of 
the  House  of  Representative  are  elected  for  three  years  and 
Senators  for  nine  years.  It  is  remarkable  that,  although  a  Ro- 
man Catholic  country,  but  few  of  the  voters  (who  admit  their 
Catholicism)  are  friendly  to  the  church  party.  That  part  of  the 
republican  constitution  which  separates  the  church  and  state 
is  the  most  popular  with  the  people.  It  would  be  safe  to  say  that 
the  party  at  present  in  power  are  altogether  Roman  Catholic, 
while  those  of  the  opposition  are  of  the  same  creed.  Therefore, 
there  being  no  question  of  tariff,  civil  service  reform,  etc.,  it  re- 
solves itself  to  the  single  issue  of  "ins"  and  "outs."  The  party 
cry  of  the  "outs"  is  that  the  "ins"  are  robbers,  and  they  want 
to  get  in  that  they  may  have  their  chance  to  rob. 

An  American  visitor  undertaking  to  gain  information  from 
an  intelligent  Brazileiro  may  conclude  that  affairs  of  state  are 
still  much  mixed,  and  the  farther  he  pursues  his  investigation  the 
more  fully  convinced  will  he  become  that  the  masses  of  the  peo- 
ple have  no  proper  conception  of  the  importance  to  each  citi- 
zen of  the  change  from  an  empire  to  a  republican  form  of  gov- 
ernment. The  usual  comment  of  strangers  is  that  the  native  popu- 
lation is  habitually  "indifferent"  to  all  such  matters. 

As  a  majority  of  the  people  are  unable  to  read  or  write, 
and  as  a  large  part  of  the  balance  do  very  little  reading,  public 
opinion  groups  around  certain  leaders,  and  becomes  a  personal 
matter  rather  than  a  question  of  principle  or  polity.  But,  evi- 
dently, the  great  majority  are  contented  with  it  because  the  spirit 
of  republican  is  in  the  air. 


238  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

Unquestionably  to  this  climate  under  the  equator  must  be 
chargeable  much  of  this  inherent  weakness  and  indolence  of  the 
population  born  and  bred  under  its  depressing  influence. 

The  Brazileiro  of  the  Amazon  valley,  of  mature  years,  some- 
times acts  in  important  political  matters  in  a  manner  that  leads  a 
stranger  to  think  that  the  brain  has  not  developed  with  the  growth 
of  the  body — in  other  words,  they  frequently  conduct  grave 
affairs  after  the  manner  of  boys.  They  have  been  so  long  accus- 
tomed to  a  paternal  form  of  government  that  the  masses  are 
practically  as  incapable  of  self-government  as  school  children. 

The  natural  consequence  is  that  the  "republic"  is  in  the  hands 
of  a  few — a  very  few — of  the  leading  minds,  who  manage  and 
control  almost  everything.  Whether  these  leaders  are  unscrupu- 
lous and  scheming  men,  as  charged  by  their  enemies,  remains  to 
be  seen. 


CHAPTER  XXV. 


GOVERNOR  S  BALL  AT  THE  PALACE. 


"tnt  S  indicated  by  the  title  and  text  this  neces- 
^^i  sarily  becomes  a  narrative  of  a  consul's 
past  experience,  rather  than  an  attempt  to 
exploit  present  personal  matters,  in  which 
spirit  I  hope  any  reader  w^ill  kindly  view 
the  too  frequent  reference  to  the  personal 
pronoun.  The  desire  is  to  simply  relate 
the  customs  and  manners  of  the  good 
people  of  Amazonia  with  whom  I  became  pleasantly  associated. 
When  consul,  I  did  not  think  it  proper  to  avail  myself  of 
the  special  privilege  of  the  section  of  the  consular  regulations 
which  permits  a  soldier  consul  to  wear  the  uniform  of  his  brevet 
rank  held  in  the  army,  I  preferred  to  make  a  public  appearance 
at  the  ceremonials  in  the  evening  dress  of  an  American  gentleman. 
I  wore  the  loyal  legion  or  G.  A.  R.  button  on  my  fatigue 
coat,  because  it  happened  to  be  the  one  I  wore  at  home  before 
I  became  a  consul,  and  I  brought  it  as  an  office  coat. 

On    ceremonial  occasions  a  consul  ranks  with  a  colonel  in 
the  army  or  a  captain  in  the  navy. 

When  a  United  States  war  ship  visits  a  foreign  port,  it  be- 
comes a  duty  of  the  captain  to  call  on  the  consul,  who  is  invited 
aboard.  On  leaving  the  ship  a  salute  of  seven  guns  is  fired  in 
his  honor,  which  the  consul  is  expected  to  acknowledge  by  rising 
from  his  seat  and  facing  the  smoke,  making  a  formal  obeisance. 
I  note  here  that  it  is  the  proper  form  for  any  citizen,  when 
reaching  the  deck  of  a  man  of  war  to  first  turn  to  the  flag  and 
salute  by  lifting  his  hat.  The  executive  or  officer  of  the  deck 
who  receives  him  on  board  will  be  sure  to  courteously  return  the 
salute. 


240  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

I  am  happy  to  say  that  no  men  of  war  visited  Para  during 
my  incumbency.  I  have  talked  with  some  brother  consuls  who 
congratulated  me  on  my  escape,  their  universal  experience  being 
that  the  visit  entails  very  great  expense,  sometimes  bankruptcy. 
As  a  rule,  naval  officers  on  shore  are  jolly,  good  fellows.  To 
entertain  them  properly  entails  considerable  outlay  for  a  poor 
consul. 

On  the  occasion  of  the  visit  of  the  Brazilian  minister  to 
Washington,  on  board  the  American  ship  that  called  at  Para, 
this  accomplished  gentleman,  Sefior  Salvador  Mendonca,  called 
on  me  at  the  consulate.  I  in  turn  accompanied  him  aboard  when 
about  to  sail,  when  captain  Meissner,  of  the  Allianca,  paid  the 
consul  the  honor  of  a  salute  from  his  signal  gun,  which  had  the 
effect  of  startling  some  lady  passengers  near  by  so  violently  as 
to  almost  cause  a  panic. 

There  does  not  seem  to  be  any  friction  between  the  races 
on  account  of  color,  and  no  disposition  is  shown  by  those  who 
are  on  the  one  side  to  get  over  or  under  this  line,  because  they 
may  be  lighter  in  color  than  some  who  are  more  favored  in  this 
natural  selection. 

Following  closely  upon  the  religious  festas,  we  enjoyed  a 
participation  in  what  is  known  as  the  carnival,  the  same  that 
is  universally  observed  in  all  Spanish  countries. 

The  carnival  lasted  several  days  and  nights,  during  which 
I  saw  more  fun  than  in  all  the  balance  of  my  stay  among  those 
mercurial  people,  and  I  may  add,  further,  than  I  have  experi- 
enced within  the  compass  of  three  days  anywhere  before  or  since, 
and  I  have  been  to  London  and  Paris  in  the  pursuit  of  pleasure. 

I  attended  five  balls  in  three  nights  and  a  funeral  each  day. 
Though  these  were  held  in  different  parts  of  the  city,  it  did  not 
necessitate  the  dividing  of  myself  into  sections,  as  my  friend  and 
I  made  use  of  a  carriage  in  which  we  vibrated  between  the  dif- 
ferent points. 

"O  Consul  Americano"  was,  of  course,  invited  to  the  gov- 
ernor's ball.     This  superlatively  grand  affair  of  the   year  is  the 


Dr.  Joao  Antonio  Luiz  Coelho,   Governador  do   Estado  do   Para 
1909-1913. 


GOVERNOR'S    BALL    AT    THE    PALACE.  241 

state  ceremonial,  held  at  the  palace  in  honor  of  a  retiring  gov- 
ernor, which  event  happened  about  the  commencement  of  the 
carnival. 

The  palace,  it  should  be  understood,  is  the  name  yet  clinging 
to  the  large  and  beautiful  building  erected  and  formerly  occupied 
by  the  Emperor  Dom  Pedro's  governors,  previous  to  the  declara- 
tion of  the  republic.  It  is  now  the  home  of  the  republican  gov- 
ernors, as  well  as  the  state  capital  building,  in  which  are  the 
assembly  rooms  of  the  legislative  bodies,  as  well  as  the  governor's 
executive  offices. 

There  are  two  large  public  buildings  of  this  character,  both 
located  on  the  large  largo,  known  as  Palace  Park,  which  extends 
from  the  Amazon  docks  to  the  bishop's  palace  and  cathedral  on 
one  side  and  the  government  buildings  on  the  other,  in  the  rear 
of  which  is  the  arsenal  or  armory  and  the  large  barracks  occu- 
pied by  the  troops. 

To  fully  appreciate  the  scene,  the  reader  should,  in  imagina- 
tion, transport  himself  to  the  equator,  where,  encompassed  by  the 
luxuriant  tropical  vegetation,  he  sees  a  large  and  most  brilliantly 
illuminated  palace,  and  curious  moving  shadows,  made  by  the 
bright  lights  upon  numerous  varieties  of  the  tall  and  gracefully 
waving  palm  trees  mirrored  on  the  dark  waters  of  the  rushing 
Amazon. 

A  suggestive  background  for  the  picture  is  the  gloomy,  old 
fort  and  the  massive  walls  of  the  dark  and  now  silent  cathedral, 
adjoining  which  are  the  bishop's  palace  and  the  too  well  known 
Misericordia  hospital,  with  which  the  dead,  past  history  of  Para 
is  indeed  darker  than  any  of  the  ghostly  shadows  reflected  on 
its  heavy  walls,  while  this  charity  hospital  is  yet  full  of  living 
misery  and  living  death. 

The  palace  itself  is  full  to  overflowing  with  the  life  and 
beauty  of  the  living  present,  some  of  whom  are  the  lineal  de- 
scendants of  those  who  participated  in  the  massacres  and  cruel- 
ties of  the  earlier  days,  committed  under  the  shadows  of  the 
walls  that  now  surround  them,  which  are  now  echoing  the 
voices  of  gladness. 


242  AN   AMERICAN    CONSUL   IX    AMAZONIA. 

Apparently  the  greater  part  of  the  colored  populace,  who, 
like  our  own,  are  always  attracted  by  music  and  gay  scenes,  were 
congregated  in  orderly  and  admiring  groups  in  the  public  grounds 
adjoining  the  palace. 

Stationed  in  different  parts  of  the  grounds,  or  patroling  in 
the  neighboring  streets,  was  the  usual  complement  of  armed 
soldiers  of  the  Brazilian  army.  These,  in  their  adaptation  of  a 
French  uniform,  are  like  the  poor,  always  with  us. 

The  colored  soldiers  and  semimilitary  uniformed  police  are 
so  common  in  Brazil,  and  make  themselves  so  numerous,  that  one 
gets  used  to  them.  Like  the  yellow  fever  and  other  evils,  one 
does  not  mind  them. 

Certainly  every  ofificer  in  his  gorgeous  full  dress  uniform, 
whether  militia  or  regular,  was  to  be  found  inside  the  palace 
doing  duty  as  a  carpet  warrior. 

I  am  sorry  that  I  have  attempted  to  describe  this  grand  ball, 
feeling  that  I  cannot  do  it  justice.  I  will  have  to  ask  the  reader 
to  help  me  by  imagining  everything  that  he  has  ever  seen  or  heard 
of  in  the  way  of  a  ball.  If  he  will  then  consider  the  genius  of 
these  people  for  imitation,  especially  of  matters  in  the  way  of 
ceremonials,  he  will  gain  a  better  idea  than  I  can  give  of  their 
display  in  the  way  of  grandeur. 

Perhaps  there  is  something  of  exaggeration  in  the  lavish 
efforts  to  pattern  after  the  style  of  the  European  courts  by  the 
Brazileiro  on  these  occasions.  The  disposition  may  be  accounted 
for  by  the  fact  that  a  majority  of  the  leaders  of  the  best  society 
have  been  educated  abroad.  Many  have  spent  their  earlier  years 
in  the  gay  society  of  Paris  and  Lisbon,  from  which  they  have 
brought  to  their  own  land,  perhaps,  the  worst  of  their  im- 
pressions. The  exotics  bloom  luxuriantly,  rapidly  spreading 
their  roots  and  later  bear  abundant  fruit.  Everybody,  even  to 
the  lowest  citizen  seems  to  take  delight  in  the  ball,  though  but 
few,  and  only  the  cream  of  the  best  society,  are  invited. 

As  "O  Consul  Americano"  I  felt  it  to  be  my  duty  to  uphold 
the  dignity  of  my  country  by  attending  in   great  shape.     It  cost 


GOVERNOR'S    BALL    AT    THE    PALACE.  243 

me  a  month's  salary  for  the  extra  dressing  necessary  for  the 
occasion.  I  put  myself  in  the  hands  of  the  best  Portuguese  tailor 
with  carte  blanche  instructions  to  do  the  proper  thing. 

For  several  days  of  this  preparatory  period,  I  was  subjected 
to  as  many  fittings  as  a  young  girl  who  is  to  make  a  debut  in 
society  at  her  first  ball  or  become  a  bride. 

The  one  suit  of  clothes  that  a  Portuguese  tailor  can  make 
in  a  style  superior  to  the  average  American  cutter  is  the  full  dress. 
This  is  made  of  black  broadcloth  of  finest  texture,  cut  in  the  same 
form  used  everywhere  else  for  evening  dress.  Perhaps  the  coats 
are  a  trifle  small  and  fit  more  neatly  or  snugly,  seeming  to  be 
molded  on  to  the  body. 

The  vest  is  cut  low  and  straight  or  V  shape,  exposing  a  good 
deal  of  full  dress  shirt  front,  with  the  usual  white  necktie. 

I  am  describing  this  matter  of  dress  here  for  the  benefit  of 
those  who  may  purpose  to  visit  South  America  as  either  tourists 
or  business  agents,  because,  in  my  judgment,  based  on  experi- 
ence, it  is  a  necessary  part  of  any  gentleman's  outfit  who  may 
desire  to  spend  any  time  or  to  become  introduced  into  good  society 
in  Para. 

A  full  dress  suit  worn  by  a  gentleman  of  good  address  will 
assist  very  much  in  the  promotion  of  reciprocity  with  those  coun- 
tries, and,  I  may  add,  fully  as  useful  as  samples,  and  will  do  more 
to  advance  American  trade  than  our  business  people  are  apt  to 
consider. 

One  becomes  more  and  more  impressed  with  the  feeling  that, 
in  their  way,  these  people  are  as  far  advanced  in  civilization  and 
culture  as  we  are. 

They  certainly  do  not  require  the  aid  of  the  missionaries 
we  send  them,  but,  instead,  more  well  dressed  and  respectable 
young  American  gentlemen  who  may  become  acquainted  with 
some  of  the  pretty,  dark  eyed  senhoras,  and  secure  their  influence, 
and  not  spend  their  time  carousing  with  foreigners  who  shrewdly 
get  hold  of  a  new  comer  and  soon  "fill  him"  with  their  own 
medicine. 


244  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

I  was  fortunate  in  being  accepted  as  part  of  the  escort  of  the 
charming  daughters  of  a  well  known  Brazilian  congressman. 
The  father  and  mother  spoke  not  only  English,  but  French  and 
German,  and  were  most  competent  guides  for  me. 

One  of  the  daughters,  conceded  to  be  one  of  the  prettiest 
senhoritas  in  Para,  whom  I  have  already  designated  as  "my  soul," 
as  that  is  the  English  of  her  Portuguese  name,  is  the  happy  pos- 
sessor of  large,  lustrous,  black  and  rather  wicked  eyes,  dark 
hair,  but  somewhat  lighter  complexion  than  the  native  born,  her 
face  being  something  after  the  German  type. 

This  lady  gracefully  consented  to  become  the  partner  of  the 
consul  Americano. 

Our  party  drove  from  Nazareth  in  two  carriages.  Arriving 
at  the  palacio,  we  were  received  at  the  driveway  by  a  party  of 
gentlemen  ushers,  in  full  dress,  wearing  white  gloves.  Each  of 
the  gentlemen  offered  a  lady  his  arm,  and  we  filed  in  procession 
over  the  carpeted  sidewalk  past  the  crowd,  through  the  palace 
gates,  to  the  reception  rooms. 

As  our  party  entered  the  doorway  and  ascended  the  grand 
staircase,  a  band,  which  was  screened  behind  some  fragrant  plants, 
played  the  welcome  unusually  given  on  the  approach  or  entrance 
of  ladies. 

The  marble  stairways  and  halls  throughout  were  filled  with 
richly  blooming  and  deliciously  fragrant  tropical  plants,  which 
I  cannot  name  but  they  were  certainly  of  a  variety  such  as  may 
not  be  .seen  anywhere  else  on  the  earth's  surface. 

Scattered  throughout  the  mass  of  truly  tropical  decorations 
were  innumerable  fairy  lights  of  variegated  hues.  These  were 
everywhere,  on  the  balconies  or  in  parallel  lines,  in  the  grounds 
forming  pathways  or  lovers'  lanes,  to  guide  the  guests'  footsteps 
to  retiring  points. 

Inside  the  palace  was  lighted  by  the  numerous  elegant  chan- 
deliers suspended  from  richly  frescoed  ceilings.  Suspended  on 
the  walls  were  the  historical  paintings  or  dignified  looking  por- 
traits of  the  earlier  Paranese  heroes,  who  seemed  to  look  down 


GOVERNOR'S    BALL    AT    THE    PALACE.  245 

approvingly  on  the  gaily  moving  kaleidoscope  of  richly  attired 
humanity. 

It  goes  without  saying  that  the  senhoras  and  senhoritas  were 
of  the  better  class.  All  were  tastefully  and  richly  attired.  The 
dark  eyed  senhors  in  the  black  full  dress  suits  blended  beautifully 
with  the  flowing  white  drapery  and  colored  trimmings  of  the 
ladies. 

The  formal  stately  quadrille  inaugurating  the  dance,  in  the 
large  double  dining  rooms,  was  of  course,  led  by  the  young  gov- 
ernor, his  partner  for  the  first  occasion  being  a  matronly  senhora 
honored  for  her  past  history  or  present  position  in  the  social  scale. 

This  was  the  signal  for  the  general  opening  of  the  ball,  and 
for  the  hours  following  "on  with  the  dance"  was  the  sentiment 
expressed  in  motion  to  the  strains  of  entrancing  music  that  seemed 
to  come  from  the  depths  of  a  real  forest  of  tropical  palms. 

The  interior  of  the  palace  is  composed  of  a  number  of  large 
and  well  proportioned  rooms  of  state.  As  nearly  all  of  these 
have  communication  through  large  archways,  the  vista  from  the 
governor's  corner  room,  in  two  opposite  directions,  was  en- 
chanting. 

It  presented  the  effect  of  a  number  of  grand  balls  going  on 
at  once.    Each  roomful  furnished  a  considerable  quota  of  its  own. 

The  tastefully  arranged  programs  designated  all  the  different 
sets  or  dances,  as  well  as  the  music. 

While  each  ball  is  opened  with  a  rather  dignified  quadrille 
or  cotillion,  the  cards  provide  for  the  latest  waltzes,  polkas, 
mazurkas,  etc.  When  the  music  started  the  waltz  the  real  en- 
joyment seemed  to  have  just  begun. 

The  round  dances  in  Brazil  are,  as  a  rule,  not  so  rapid  as 
with  us.  I  am  tempted  to  say  they  are  not  so  ungainly  or  ab- 
ruptly executed  as  seems  to  be  the  method  with  our  ladies. 

The  senhoritas  do  not  present  an  appearance  of  trying  to 
rush  their  partners  and  the  senhors  are  not  acquainted  with  the 
long  strides  in  what  they  call  the  "American  waltz." 


246  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

There  is  an  indefinable  Portuguese  Spanish  dignity,  even  in 
the  more  reckless  dancer  of  the  later  hours  of  their  balls,  that 
is  sometimes  rather  a  surprising  object  lesson  to  some  foreigners, 
who  may  undertake  to  attempt  to  introduce  their  methods  into 
the  dance. 

The  entire  palace  was  laid  open  to  the  guests,  who  were  at 
liberty  to  dance  with  any  of  the  senhoras  whom  they  might  be 
lucky  enough  to  find  disengaged. 

Some  of  the  elderly  statesmen  formed  groups  among  them- 
selves to  exchange  reminiscences  of  their  youthful  days — or  to 
make  comments  on  the  present  scenes. 

Others  wandered  about  in  couples  through  the  wide  hall- 
ways, or  promenaded  with  their  cigarettes  on  the  broad  verandas, 
overlooking  the  court  garden. 

In  the  large  dining  or  breakfast  room  was  tastefully  dis- 
played and  served  a  collation  that  would  have  been  creditable  to 
any  of  our  best  caterers.  Champagne  flowed  freely,  as  well  as 
all  the  other  iced  drinks  used  on  such  occasions.  Though  supplied 
in  the  most  lavish  abundance  to  all  who  desired,  there  was  not, 
on  this  as  on  the  boat  excursion,  any  indication  of  boisterous 
excess  on  the  part  of  the  Brazilians. 

Perhaps  I  should  qualify  this  somewhat  by  the  statement 
that  along  toward  morning  when  the  crowd  began  to  go  home, 
my  good  friend  Chermont,  my  jolly  vice-consul,  in  the  goodness 
of  his  kind  heart  felt  that  he  must  hug  the  consul  savagely,  but 
this  is   a  common  occurrence  in  Brazil. 

A  strict  regard  for  truth  compels  me  to  record  that  the  vice- 
consul  especially  desired  to  make  the  consul  as  happy  on  this 
occasion  as  he  was  himself,  and  with  this  laudable  object  in  view 
I  was  invited  to  drink  all  sorts  of  toasts  with  everybody  with 
whom  he  would  come  in  contact,  and  as  he  was  popular  and 
knew  them  all,  it  was  a  pretty  big  contract. 

He  became  so  much  interested  in  his  effort  that  he  failed  to 
observe  that  with  me  "there  was  many  a  slip  "twixt  the  cup  and 
the  lip."    I  did  not  swallow  everything  he  gave  me. 


GOVERNOR'S    BALL    AT    THE    PALACE.  247 

This  little  scheme  of  my  Brazilian  friend  kept  us  in  the 
neighborhood  of  the  refreshment  rooms,  where  ladies  mixed  freely 
with  the  gentlemen  most  of  the  time. 

While  the  Englishmen  were  dancing  with  my  girls,  I  was 
being  steered  all  over  the  palace  by  my  friend  to  be  introduced 
to  perhaps  every  one  present  that  I  had  not  previously  met. 

The  editor  of  the  Provincia,  who  had  been  so  savagely  at- 
tacking me,  was  present  and  to  my  astonishment  my  friend  took 
the  opportunity  before  a  crowd  to  introduce  me  to  my  enemy, 
whom  I  had  never  before  met. 

A  number  of  persons  looking  on  rather  expected  a  scene, 
but  my  diplomatic  friend  managed  so  well  that  the  incident  which 
was  openly  commented  upon  resulted  in  a  general  hand  shaking, 
the  editor  being  shoved  into  my  arms  with  orders  to  hug  the 
consul,  which  he  did.     Apparently,  peace  was  restored. 

I  had  first  paid  my  respects  to  the  governor,  in  honor  of 
whose  promotion  to  the  cabinet  as  minister  of  foreign  afifairs 
the  ball  was  being  tendered.  He  was  kind  enough  during  the 
happy  evening  to  show  me  some  marked  attention,  inviting  me 
especially  to  call  at  his  rooms. 

Of  course,  the  blooming  exotic  was  there,  with  the  baron's 
party,  attired  in  a  most  elegant  costume  of  white,  fluffy  in  rich 
lace  trim.mings,  looking  as  pretty  as  a  picture  and  being  generally 
recognized  as  the  belle   of  the  ball. 

This  lady  is  of  about  the  medium  height,  of  a  rather  slender, 
graceful  figure,  proportionately  developed,  with  a  face  modeled 
after  the  French  brunette  type,  sweetly  intelligent  when  animated 
and  when  in  repose  rather  sad.  But  it  is  her  eyes,  which  are  a 
beautiful  dark  brown,  from  which  beam  a  most  agreeable  ex- 
pression, that  are  so  fascinating,  and  over  which  so  many 
men  rave  who  have  had  the  pleasure  of  coming  under  their  in- 
fluence. 

She  was  educated  in  Lisbon,  at  the  best  English  and  French 
schools.  I  believe  she  was  born  in  Portugal,  at  least  she  told 
me    that  "of  all  her  life  she  had   only  spent  four  years  in  Para, 


248  AN   AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

of  which  she  was  very  fond."  This  lady's  gowns,  as  well  as  those 
of  a  majority  of  the  other  ladies  of  her  set,  were  made  in  Paris 
for  this  occasion. 

I  will  not  venture  upon  a  description  of  the  millinery  or  dry 
goods  of  the  ball.  There  are  no  decollette  toilets  worn  in  that 
country  on  public  occasions. 

The  lady  readers  will  understand  that  the  costumes  are  of 
the  finest  and  most  tasteful  because  of  the  general  custom  of  these 
senhoras  to  have  their  gowns  made  in  Paris  or  Lisbon.  I  am 
told  that  some  of  the  daughters  of  wealthier  merchants  have  a 
standing  order  in  Europe  to  supply  them  regularly  with  patterns 
of  all  the  latest  styles  of  gowns,  hats  and  even  shoes. 

This  may  read  like  exaggeration,  but  is  only  another  of  the 
many  facts  common  to  this  people  of  which  we  know  nothing 
in  our  country. 

I  was  told  by  a  lady,  at  the  time  of  the  ball,  that  the  best 
and  richest  costume  was  that  worn  by  the  daughter  of  a  Paranese 
lawyer  bearing  the  Scotch  name  of  Samuel  Wallace  Macdowell, 
the  son  of  one  of  the  earlier  pioneers.  Neither  the  son  nor  any 
of  the  descendants  of  this  Scotch  patriot  speak  a  word  of  Eng- 
lish, though  they  are  familiar  with  French  and  Spanish,  as  is 
the  case  in  all  of  the  more  refined  families. 

I  am  advised  that  the  gentlemen  also  employ  French  tailors 
and  hatters,  and  wear  shoes  made  from  measurements  recorded 
in  Europe,  and  I  know  that  my  Brazilian  friend  Watrin  wears 
very  neat  boots  made  especially  for  him  in  Paris. 

These  statements  will  assist  somewhat  in  the  discussion  of 
reciprocity  and  trade  with  America. 

Of  course  the  pretty  trio  of  sisters,  Ninita,  Zeta  and  Zizi, 
were  present  and  participated  in  every  dance. 

Along  toward  morning,  discovering  little  Zeta  reclining  on 
a  lounge,  her  mother  apparently  nursing  her  through  a  faint,  I 
eagerly  approached  to  offer  my  assistance.  The  little  beauty  was 
only  tired.  Though  exhausted  from  fatigue  she  could  scarcely 
rise.     She  laughed  sweetly  at  my  concern  as  she  gave  me  her 


Courtesy   of   Director-General   John    liarrett,    of   Pan-American    Union. 

RESIDENCIA  DEL  GOBERNADOR  DEL  ESTADO  DE  PARA. 

El  Doctor  Augusto  Alontenegro,  Gobernador  de  Para,  tomo  po.^esion 
de  su  cargo  a  principios  del  siglo  actual,  y  ha  sido  un  Jefe 
Ejecutivo  nniy  popular  y  de  ideas  progresistas.  Su  residencia 
oficial  y  particular  radica  en  Para,  l^ste  cs  el  tipo  de  las  muchas 
mansioncs  hermosas  que  poscen  los  ricos  cindadaims  de  Para. 


GOVERNOR'S    BALL    AT    THE    PALACE.  249 

hand.  When  the  music  struck  up  for  the  next  waltz  a  young 
fellow  suddenly  made  an  appearance  with  whom  she  glided  into 
the  waltz,  as  if  it  were  the  first  dance. 

I  verily  believe  these  senhoritas  would  dance  if  they  knew 
the  next  would  be  their  last  dance. 

They  all  dance,  and  most  of  them  do  it  very  well.  As  far 
as  I  could  observe  everybody  retired  in  good  order.  I  succeeded 
in  escaping  from  the  machinations  of  my  jovial  friend  the  vice- 
consul,  and  got  away  with  my  lady  friend,  who  was  so  fatigued, 
through  having  taken  part  in  every  dance,  that  she  leaned  so 
heavily  on  my  arm  that  I  almost  carried  her  to  the  carriage. 

The  governor's  ball,  which  was  the  social  event  of  the  year, 
successfully  closed  in  the  early  morning  hours. 

The  other  grand  balls  of  the  carnival  season,  which  imme- 
diately followed,  are  not  to  be  mentioned  in  comparison  in  the 
same  chapter. 


CHAPTER    XXVI. 

A  FUNERAL  AND  A  CARNIVAL. 

T  may  seem  a  little  out  of  place  to  introduce 
a  funeral  chapter  after  the  attempted  de- 
scription of  the  two  consecutive  nights  at 
the  fancy  balls,  but,  as  I  have  before  men- 
tioned, Amazonia  is  a  country  of  strange 
customs. 

An  unusual  number  of  the  people  care- 
lessly expose  themselves  at  night  during  the 
carnival  season,  when  the  ghastly  yellow  jack  stalks  around  and 
reaps  a  proportionately  rich  harvest  of  death. 

It  is  quite  inconsiderate  for  people  to  die  during  carnival 
time,  which  occurs  in  the  winter,  but  the  dark  skinned  natives 
of  the  surrounding  country  that  flock  to  the  city  are  as  liable  to 
attack  as  are  foreigners ;  so  it  often  happens  in  that  country  of 
strange  customs  that  they  go  blackberrying  out  of  season. 

One  of  the  principal  duties  of  a  consul  is  to  keep  a  record 
of  the  deaths  of  his  countrymen  and  take  charge  of  their  efifects, 
and  this  necessitates  the  performance  of  some  sad  duties  at  times, 
especially  in  notifying  friends. 

Among  the  deaths  that  occurred  during  my  incumbency  was 
one  of  the  oldest,  both  in  years  and  in  residence,  at  that  tropical 
city,  of  any  of  the  foreigners  living  there.  He  had  survived  the 
terrible  cholera  epidemic  of  some  thirty  years  previous  and  had 
probably  known  hundreds,  perhaps  thousands  of  the  foreigners 
die  of  yellow  fever  during  his  many  years  among  these  people, 
escaping  all  of  the  dangers,  living  to  a  ripe  old  age,  and  at  last 
going  off  to  sleep  peacefully  when  life's  candle  had  burned  out. 
As  previously  stated,  yellow  fever  seldom  attacks  an  elderly 
person.     The  only  time  I  ever  felt  glad  I  was  growing  old  was 


A  FUNERAL   AND   A   CARNIVAL.  251 

when  I  experienced  the  first  symptoms.     The  Portuguese  doctor 
said  to  me,  "Oh,  you  got  nothing.    You  are  too  old  to  die." 

As  is  the  custom  in  this  latitude,  the  remains  were  buried 
within  a  few  hours  after  death,  being  followed  to  the  lonely  St, 
Isabel  Cemetery  by  nearly  all  of  the  foreign  element  of  the  city, 
as  well  as  the  best  portion  of  the  native  residents. 

A  funeral  in  Para  is  certainly  one  of  the  features  that  is  not 
calculated  to  induce  immigration.  The  service  most  frequently 
occurs  in  the  afternoon,  when  the  heavy  clouds  that  come  up  from 
the  ocean  at  this  time  of  the  day  hang  over  the  place  like  a  pall, 
and  the  rains  that  follow  seem  to  add  to  the  distressing  sur- 
roundings. 

"Into  each  heart  some  rain  must  fall — 
Some   days  must  be  dark  and  dreary." 

But  we  seem  to  get  more  than  our  share  at  Para.  When 
the  gilded — I  was  tempted  to  say  gaudy — hearse  bedecked  with 
tinsel  drawn  by  four  horses  trotted  up  to  the  cemetery  gate,  the 
old  fashioned,  oval  top  coffin  was  tenderly  carried  inside  the 
grounds,  a  son,  the  only  relative  present,  being  one  of  the  pall- 
bearers. The  uncovered  heads  of  Russians,  Swedes,  Danes, 
Frenchmen,  Germans,  English  and  Americans,  as  well  as  the 
best  of  Brazilians,  thus  solemnly  and  sadly  indicated  the  universal 
respect  for  the  dead. 

On  reaching  the  open  grave — located  in  that  part  of  the 
grounds  allotted  to  foreigners — the  coffin  was  placed  on  a  single 
stand  or  trestle,  being  balanced  after  the  manner  of  a  seesaw, 
while  the  Brazilian  attendants  slowly  and  deliberately  unscrewed 
the  nickel  plate  handles  from  the  coffin.  It  was,  indeed,  an  em- 
barrassing and  indelicate  proceeding  to  those  unaccustomed  to 
such  exhibitions  of  economy  before  an  open  grave  in  the  presence 
of  bareheaded  mourners.  There  seemed  to  be  some  danger  of 
tipping  over  the  coffin,  as  it  required  a  hand  to  steady  it,  while 
the  undertaker  fiend  vigorously  plied  his  screwdriver. 

After  the  handles  were  saved,  the  double  folding  or  hinged 
covers  of  the  coffin,  were  thrown  back,  exposing  the  face  to  the 


252  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

mist  that  was  then  falUng.  A  strip  of  white  cotton  cloth  was 
then  laid  over  the  entire  body,  when,  to  my  utter  surprise  and 
horror,  the  attendants  proceeded  to  spread  over  the  body  thus 
thinly  covered  shovelfuls  of  slaked  lime.  This  may  have  been  a 
necessary  proceeding,  but  it  did  seem  as  if  the  coldblooded  actions 
might  have  been  decently  concealed  from  the  sight  of  those  for- 
eigners who  were  present  and  unaccustomed  to  such  exhibitions. 
The  lime  might  have  been  placed  within  the  grave,  where  it  would 
at  least  have  served  as  a  cleanly  looking  lining  and  have  con- 
cealed the  slimy  red  clay  which  held  at  the  bottom  small  pools  of 
water  that  had  collected  during  the  rain  of  the  day. 

There  are  no  rough  boxes  or  other  proper  receptacles  placed 
in  the  bottom  of  the  graves.  The  black  covered  coffin,  with  its 
gilt  and  white  braid,  is  lowered  into  the  damp,  cold  grave  and 
the  muddy  clay  is  raked  over.  This,  of  course,  adds  to  the  very 
general  repugnance  toward  death  in  this  locality. 

No  ladies  ever  attend  a  funeral  at  Para,  but  visit  the  grave 
alone  the  day  immediately  following.  In  this  connection  it  may 
be  recorded  truthfully  that,  in  the  burial  of  the  poorer  classes, 
the  "last  sad  rites"  partake  of  the  nature  of  savage  brutality. 
They  are  taken  from  the  cheap  box  coffins  and  dumped  into  a 
hole  ten  feet — a  square  excavation  always  open  and  yawning  for 
more,  which  is  called  the  dead  hole — the  box  being  returned  for 
use  again  and  again,  a  mere  sprinkling  of  lime  and  clay  being 
thrown  over  each  body  as  it  is  interred.  That  which  I  am  attempt- 
ing to  describe  was  a  first  class  funeral  for  Para. 

When  the  wooden,  double  hinged  top  lids  were  folded  over 
the  remains,  and  properly  secured,  two  of  the  attendants  laid 
the  coffin  on  the  ropes  that  had  been  spread  on  the  ground.  Each 
taking  an  end,  the  coffin  was  lifted  over  the  grave  and  lowered. 
The  grave  digger  had  not  done  his  work  properly — the  end  of 
the  coffin  scraping  the  earth.  To  my  horror  and  disgust,  one  of 
the  brutes  deliberately  placed  one  of  his  naked,  muddy  feet  on 
the  casket  to  force  it  past  the  obstruction 

In  compliance  with  a  telegraphic  order,  this  body  was  taken 
from  the  grave,  in  which  it  had  laid  but  three  days,  and  prepared 


A   FUNERAL   AND   A   CARNIVAL.  253 

as  far  as  the  facilities  of  that  country  afforded  for  shipment  to 
New  York,  an  application  being  made  to  me  as  consul  for  a 
certificate  of  death  and  preparation.  I  declined  to  give  this  in 
the  form  requested,  and  the  British  ship  about  to  sail  refused  to 
receive  the  body,  which  was  held  for  a  week  or  ten  days,  and 
actually  sent  to  the  United  States  on  board  of  an  American  ship 
on  which  there  were  a  number  of  passengers,  none  of  whom  nor 
even  the  sailors  were  aware  of  the  fact  that  they  carried  as 
freight  in  a  box  a  decomposing  body  that  had  been  hastily  buried 
and  again  raised,  to  be  exposed  to  that  climate  for  days  before 
sailing. 

Hard  and  rough  as  this  attempt  at  the  description  of  the 
funeral  of  a  highly  respected  foreign  merchant  may  seem,  it  was 
reserved  for  an  American  citizen,  who  claims  to  be  a  minister 
of  God,  to  add  to  the  horrors  of  the  dreadful  scene  by  giving 
vent  before  the  open  grave  to  his  "opinions"  in  the  matter  of 
the  "present  whereabouts"  or  hereafter  of  the  deceased.  He 
said  in  effect: 

"The  deceased  was  a  good  enough  man  after  his  own  way 
of  thinking." 

He  further  added  insult  to  the  highly  respected  Catholics 
present  by  injecting  an  attack  on  the  religion  of  the  country  in 
saying : 

"Nobody  knows  where  he  has  gone,  and  as  a  Protestant 
minister  it  is  not  my  business  to  pray  him  out  of  any  place  that 
he  may  have  gotten  into." 

As  previously  stated,  there  were  assembled  about  that  open 
grave  in  respectful  attention  the  very  best  and  most  highly  culti- 
vated people  of  Para,  educated  gentlemen  from  France,  England, 
Germany,  Russia,  Denmark,  America  and  other  places,  any  one 
of  whom  was  the  peer  of  this  so-called  American  minister. 

The  consuls  of  Germany,  England  and  America  were  pres- 
ent, either  of  whom  had  in  fact  more  authority  than  this  self- 
constituted  missionary,  but  because  the  deceased  had  lived  a 
Protestant  it  was  thought  advisable  to  permit  the  only  representa- 
tive of  that  denomination  in  Para  to  perform  the  burial  service. 


254  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

It  was  a  sad  mistake.  The  heads  of  the  American  consul 
and  the  few  American  citizens  were  bent  lower  in  their  grief 
through  the  mortification  inflicted  upon  them  by  their  countryman. 
For  foreigners,  without  a  single  exception,  were  bitterly  indig- 
nant, and  where  but  a  half  hour  previous  the  assembled  citizens 
who  had  followed  in  meek  humility  and  with  sad  hearts  full  of 
charity  toward  all  mankind,  as  becomes  all  human  nature,  to  the 
open  grave,  the  same  men  walked  away  with  feelings  of  hatred 
and  contempt  toward  the  American  missionary. 

Fortunately,  the  class  of  attendants  were  of  a  character  that 
would  not  tolerate  any  exhibition  of  resentment  at  such  a  place. 

The  general  indignation  was  suppressed.  One  person,  how- 
ever, could  not  resist  telling  the  "preacher,"  while  en  route  to 
the  city,  that  he  was  "neither  a  man  nor  a  minister." 

It  was  decency  outraged  in  a  most  harsh  manner  on  the  part 
of  one  from  whom  all  had  a  right  to  expect  Christian  charity. 

The  charitable  reader  may  hope  that  the  preacher  felt  that 
he  was  performing  a  Christian  duty  in  a  conscientious  manner, 
but  the  facts  are  against  the  supposition. 

Realizing,  as  far  as  such  a  nature  is  capable,  the  popular 
indignation  at  his  conduct,  the  minister  called  upon  the  American 
consul  to  explain,  but  his  explanation  was  adding  insult  to  injury, 
as  he  stated  in  his  own  defense  that  the  people  assembled  at  the 
grave  never  attended  his  church,  so  he  embraced  the  opportunity 
to  give  them  the  benefit  of  his  intolerant  views.  He  took  ad- 
vantage of  his  opportunity  before  an  open  grave  to  vent  his  spleen 
against  the  dead  and  the  living  because  they  could  not  subscribe 
to  his  intolerant  practices,  and  it  would  seem  his  own  conduct 
fully  justified  their  actions. 

His  own  words  were :  "I  did  not  propose  to  do  any  'monkey 
business'  out  there." 

When  remonstrated  with  on  the  use  of  such  harsh  terms, 
coupled  with  a  suggestion  that  he  should  have  simply  read  the 
burial  service  appropriate  for  such  occasions,  he  retorted  in  a 
coarse  way:  "I  was  not  giving  them  any  'machine  religion.'  " 


A  FUNERAL   AND  A   CARNIVAL.  255 

Here  the  American  consul,  whose  mother  lived  and  died  in 
the  church  of  the  missionary,  and  whose  family  are  all  of  the 
same  persuasion,  entirely  lost  his  temper,  and  forgetting  his  early 
training  in  respect  to  reverence  for  preachers,  abruptly  closed  the 
interview  by  the  observation,  "You  are  a  positive  hindrance  and 
obstacle  to  the  cause  you  represent  in  this  country,  and  I  do  not 
believe  the  people  of  your  church  would  for  one  moment  sustain 
you  in  such  indecent  action.  I  will  be  obliged  if  you  will  not 
again  come  across  my  path." 

If  a  Catholic  priest  from  South  America  were  to  behave 
himself  so  outrageously  in  our  country  he  would  be  mobbed ;  yet 
these  easy  going  Brazilians  look  on  in  an  indifferent  way,  and 
for  years  have  tamely  submitted  to  these  insults. 

The  matter  is  on  record  in  the  Archives  of  the  Government 
at  Washington. 

"By  their  works  ye  shall  know  them"  would  form  the  text 
or  subject  of  a  very  interesting  essay  on  the  so-called  "self-sup- 
porting   missionary  cause"  at  Para. 

It  is  a  well  known  fact,  conceded  by  this  self-styled  "super- 
intendent," that  the  result  of  ten  years'  labor  as  a  self-supporting 
missionary  only  shows  about  ten  colored  converts  of  the  lower 
class,  so  that  altogether  there  is  nothing  to  be  superintendent  of. 
In  a  business  as  well  as  a  missionary  sense  he  is  a  failure,  as 
by  his  indiscreet  utterances  he  has  antagonized  the  entire  re- 
spectable element  of  the  country. 

He  is  not  a  self-supporting  missionary,  as  a  greater  part  of 
his  time  is  devoted  to  secular  work.  Some  American  friends 
have  presented  him  with  a  press  and  type,  which  affords  him  an 
opportunity  to  ventilate  his  peculiar  views ;  but,  as  a  matter  of 
fact,  the  better  class  of  people  do  not  read  the  paper,  and  those 
that  it  should  instruct  are  not  able  to  read,  so  that  practically  it  is 
a  waste. 

In  this  connection  I  mention  the  unostentatious  custom  of 
these  people  in  the  observance  of  all  saints'  or  all  souls'  days, 
which  occur  in  November  previous  to  the  festas  of  the  carnivals. 


256  AN   AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

On  these  days  the  friends  and  relatives  of  the  deceased  repair 
in  crowds  to  the  different  cemeteries,  carrying  flowers,  crosses, 
and  other  hke  tributes  with  which  they  decorate  the  graves. 

It  is  a  general  holiday,  during  which  extra  cars  or  trains  are 
run  out  to  the  suburban  cemeteries,  being  observed  very  much 
as  our  Memorial  Day,  when  soldiers'  graves  are  decorated. 
With  these  people  all  graves  are  remembered,  either  by  the 
depositing  of  flowers  or  perhaps  only  the  widow  or  children  will 
gather  about  the  little  mounds  and  offer  their  prayers  for  the  re- 
pose of  souls. 

The  sincere  devotion  of  these  people  in  their  sorrows  and 
their  joys  alike  is  a  most  agreeable  contrast  to  the  harsh,  un- 
charitable conduct  of  the  American  missionary  who  receives 
the  contributions  of  our  kind  people  to  support  him  in  indecent 
attacks  upon  their  belief. 

The  cemeteries  of  Para  are  well  kept,  being  generally  under 
the  care  of  religious  societies.  As  far  as  such  things  go,  they 
are  equally  and  as  tastefully  arranged  as  with  us. 

In  nearly  all  there  is  a  chapel  in  which  bodies  are  deposited 
for  the  last  rites  of  the  church,  previous  to  burial.  They  do  not 
permit  the  dead  to  be  taken  inside  of  the  cit}'  churches. 

The  best  families  have  separate  vaults,  as  with  us,  most  of 
them  being  constructed  in  Europe  and  sent  out  ready  to  be  put  up. 
There  are  no  stone  quarries  in  Amazonia,  so  that  all  grave  or 
tombstone  work,  like  almost  everything  else,  is  imported,  and 
considerable  money  is  expended  and  taste  and  art  is  shown  in 
the  cemeteries. 

The  principal  inn  is  named  St.  Isabel. 

A  beautiful  little  Spanish  senhorita,  the  friend  of  one  of  my 
English  companions,  upon  whom  we  called  one  evening  and 
found  quite  ill,  her  large  eyes  seeming  larger  and  sadder  because 
they  appeared  sunken,  whispered  in  soft  Spanish,  as  she  smilingly 
extended  her  hand : 

"Se  senhor,  Ah-de-leen-ha-  (Adelina)  must  go  to  San 
Is-a-bel." 


Dr.  Paes  de  Carvalho,  Governador  of  Para  and  Senator  to  Gen- 
eral Government  at  Rio.     Dr.  Paes,  as  he  is  familiarly 
called,   is   recognized   as   an   authority  on  yellow 
fever  and  the   friend  to   .Americans. 


A   FUNERAL   AND   A   CARNIVAL.  257 

The  slow  pronunciation  of  her  name  and  that  of  the  cemetery, 
the  accent  on  the  syllable  Is,  in  a  sweet  voice,  made  quite  a  sad 
impression  upon  me. 

The  most  interesting  feature  of  the  observance  occurs  after 
dark,  when  the  lighted  candles  are  placed  around  each  grave.  One 
must  see  this  to  be  deeply  impressed  with  the  weird  solemnity 
and  wild  beauty  of  the  scene. 

If  you  can,  imagine  acres  upon  acres  of  burning  tapers, 
there  being  six  to  each  grave.  Around  these  dimly  lighted 
altars,  like  dark  outlines  of  statues  kneeling  on  the  damp 
ground,  may  be  traced  hundreds  of  men,  women  and  children, 
so  deeply  immersed  in  their  devotions  that  they  appear  wholly 
unconscious  of  all  that  is  around  them.  Others  are  walking 
about  in  quest  of  graves  that  may  be  difficult  to  find  in  the  dark- 
ness. 

Apparently  nobody  speaks  aloud.  There  are  no  orations 
or  readings  of  poems  and  rendering  of  choruses  by  paid  singers. 

The  cemetery,  though  crowded,  is  as  quiet  as  at  a  church 
service,  except  for  the  bands  that  in  some  distant  corners  are  play- 
ing most  mournful  dirges. 

In  walking  about  I  heard  sobs  and  moans  from  true-hearted 
Catholic  breasts,  that  believed  their  loved  ones  had  died  in  the 
Lord. 

A  visitor  from  the  land  and  people  who  send  missionaries 
to  Para  may  find  a  lesson  in  the  San  Isabel  cemetery,  in  the 
darkness  of  a  tropical  night,  made  darker  by  the  shadows  from 
the  palms  and  other  beautiful  trees  that  are  reflected  from  the 
sad  southern  moon  that  seems  so  close. 

One  of  the  features  of  home  life  in  Amazonia  that  will  strike 
the  average  visitor,  as  savoring  of  a  relic  of  barbarism  or  half 
civilization,  are  the  numerous  high  fences  that  may  always  be 
found  surrounding  the  houses. 

Not  only  of  the  rich,  but  the  poorest  hovels  will  be  almost 
concealed  by  a  stockade  of  palings  ten  feet  high,  one  end  being 
put  -n  the  ground,  the  top  sharpened  like   a  spike.     These,   in 


258  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

rows  or  panels,  are  closely  and  securely  bound  with  a  wisp  of 
vine.  They  soon  become  covered  with  growing  vines  that  look 
quite  like  our  Virginia  creeper,  and  bear  in  abundance  brilliant 
flowers.  These  vines  and  flowers  of  every  conceivable  variety 
serve  to  conceal  and  beautify,  beyond  the  art  of  man,  the  rude 
structure  made  of  split  rails  standing  on  end. 

One  can  seldom  see  what  is  behind  these  fences  except  the 
heavy  growth   of   trees. 

My  friend  and  vice  consul,  who  has  had  some  experience  in 
climbing  Para  fences,  assures  me  that  like  high  neck  dresses  they 
are  a  relic  of  barbarism. 

One  of  the  pecularities  of  Para  gardens  is  that  many  of 
the  trees  usually  contain  bright  red  blooms  or  clusters  of  crimson 
berries.  Everything  seems  to  grow  high,  there  being  but  few 
small  plants. 

The  orchids,  of  which  this  equatorial  Amazonia  is  the  home, 
grow  spontaneously  in  the  forests.  There  are  people  who  make 
it  the  object  of  their  lives  to  hunt  the  forests  of  Amazonia  for 
rare  varieties  of  the  orchid,  many  specimens  of  which  are  sent 
to  Europe  by  every  steam  sailing. 

The  better  homes  are  supplied  by  their  native  rubber  gath- 
erers with  any  new  species  that  may  be  discovereil  in  the  pursuit 
of  the  rubber  and  cocoa  industries. 

Orchid  gardens  are  quite  common  in  Para.  The  trellis  work 
usually  surrounding  their  verandas  and  porticos  are  availed  of  to 
attach  the  numerous  collections  of  beautiful  plants,  so  that  in 
Amazonia  hanging  gardens  of  the  most  wonderfully  beautiful 
flowers  that  the  earth  produces  are  quite  frequently  to  be  met 
with  in  the  cultured  homes. 

I  have  seen  some  orchids  in  the  little  brown  hands  of  sen- 
horas,  whose  tapering  fingers  pointed  out  their  beauty,  that, 
for  exquisiteness  and  variety  of  form  and  color  and  perfume, 
could  not  be  portrayed  by  pen,  pencil  or  coloring,  so  that  I  need 
not  attempt  a  description.  Only  a  born  poet  could  do  this  sub- 
ject justice. 


A  FUNERAL   AND   A   CARNIVAL.  259 

The  wealthier  homes  are  usually  situated  some  distance  back 
from  the  streets.  These  are  invariably  "protected"  by  a  high  iron 
picket  fence  which  surmounts  a  wall  of  masonry  that  is  of  it- 
self a  fence,  being  from  two  to  four  feet  high  from  the  ground. 
Through  these  iron  pickets  the  stranger  may  view  most  luxuriant 
gardens,  such  as  may  be  imagined  from  a  high  colored  painting, 
but  are  only  found  under  the  Equator. 

It  is  seldom,  if  ever,  that  a  stranger  is  admitted  inside  of 
this  fence.  Therefore,  but  few  brief  tourists  are  competent  to 
describe  the  home  lives  of  these  people. 

It  will  seem  like  an  exaggeration  to  say  that  along  the  line 
of  these  fences  of  the  aristocratic  homes  the  visitor  will  find  in 
front  of  each  house  what  seems  to  be  like  an  iron  cage  of  the 
same  form  and  style  used  in  menageries  to  confine  tigers  or 
leopards. 

There  are  fancy  iron  seats  on  them,  however,  and  surprise 
will  give  way  to  disbelief  when  I  assert  that  these  cages  are  in- 
tended for  the  ladies  of  the  families  when  they  wish  to  look 
into  the  outside  world,  or,  strictly  speaking,  to  view  the  numer- 
ous street  processions.  Like  the  pickets  of  the  poor,  the  iron 
fences  and  cages  of  the  rich  are  alike,  relics  of  ealier  civilization. 

These  may  have  been  in  years  past  a  necessity  as  a  pro- 
tection from  their  own  savages,  but  they  are  not  now  required. 
As  a  matter  of  fact,  I  never  have  seen  a  cage  occupied,  but 
in  my  evening  walks  or  rides  witnessed  the  ladies  promenade  in 
groups  on  the  sidewalks,  in  front  of  their  homes,  but  they  did 
not  venture  far  beyond. 

These  iron  fences,  as  well  as  the  workmen  to  construct 
them,  are  imported  from  Europe,  as  also  the  paint  and  brushes 
necessary  to  keep  them  in  good  form.  Every  one  of  the  large 
stone  slabs  in  the  broad  pavements  comes  from  Portugal,  and  it 
is  not  necessary  to  say  that  the  street  cars  and  rails  come  from 
England,  where  they  are  manufactured  after  American  models. 

The  Brazileiro  does  not  manufacture  anything.  It  would 
be  too  much  trouble.     They  are  always  tired  or  indifferent,  and 


26o  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

prefer  to  sit  still,  while  generous  nature  supplies  them  with  the 
rubber  and  cocoa,  with  which  they  buy  what  they  require.  So 
that  it  must  be  conceded  that  in  everything  that  is  good  and  useful 
Amazonia  is  supplied  by  other  lands,  while  that  which  is  beautiful 
and  in  that  sense  useful,  like  orchids  and  lovely  flowers,  as  well 
as  pretty  senhoras,  are  spontaneous  productions  due  to  the  warmth 
of  the  climate  and  the  natural  richness  of  the  soil. 

The  carnival,  like  most  of  the  other  social  observances  in 
Amazonia,  is  an  importation  from  the  Mediterranean  countries, 
or  perhaps  from  Paris. 

It  is  an  exotic  that  thrives  well  in  that  warm  climate.  The 
nightly  jollifications  are  inaugurated  by  a  procession  on  the  after- 
noon of  the  first  day.  This  has  been  so  frequently  described  by 
visitors  in  the  European  countries,  that  I  need  only  say  that  here 
it  is  an  imitation  in  a  greatly  exaggerated  form. 

Most  of  the  masqueraders  ride  through  the  city  in  carriages 
or  on  horseback,  dressed  in  all  manner  of  ludicrous  costumes,  in- 
tended to  represent  in  burlesque,  or  caricature  anything  in  social, 
political  or  business  life  that  may  take  their  fancy.  And  here  I 
may  be  permitted  to  say  that  the  Brazilian  is  an  expert  in  carica- 
ture. Some  of  their  comic  illustrated  papers  indicate  a  great 
fund  of  originality  in  their  productions. 

As  "O  Consul  Americano"  I  suffered  somewhat,  though  the 
comic  papers  made  efforts  to  defend  me  from  the  attacks  of  the 
daily  Provincia.  I  was  represented  with  a  very  large  head  and 
small  body,  riding  whip  in  hand,  driving  off  a  pack  of  dogs  that 
were  barking  at  my  heels. 

The  likeness  was  ludicrously  correct  and,  coming  after  the 
reference  to  the  senhora's  pet  dogs,  the  application  was  quite 
good.  So  in  the  dressing  for  the  carnival  the  opportunity  is 
availed  of  to  caricature  such  as  strike  their  fancy  in  real  life. 
I  was  looking  for  a  brother  Jonathan. 

All  are  closely  masked  and  no  attempt  to  undo  or  uncover  a 
masker  is  ever  made,  so  that  they  are  perfectly  safe  in  the  exercise 
of  their  talents,  and  some  most  absurd  situations  occur  between 


A  FUNERAL   AND   A   CARNIVAL.  261 

maskers  and  their  victims,  to  the  great  amusement  of  the  crowds, 
which  always  follow  them  about  in  anticipation  of  these  scenes. 

The  appearance  of  numbers  of  senhoras  attract  the  greatest 
share  of  attention.  One  of  the  most  striking  figures  to  me  was, 
the  caricature  of  what  looked  to  be  a  woman  fully  fifteen  feet 
in  height,  that  came  stalking  down  the  middle  of  the  street  in  a 
most  dignified  way.  It  was  intended  as  a  representation  of  the 
height  of  folly,  and  a  most  amusing  and  correct  representation 
it  made. 

This  sort  of  thing  lasts  all  of  the  early  evening,  during  which 
visits  are  made  by  the  maskers  upon  families,  friends  and  shop- 
keepers. 

The  business  merchant  will  suspend  all  work  to  answer  the 
call  of  a  masker  at  his  front  door,  and  often  with  pen  or  paper 
in  hand  he  will  laugh  and  talk  half  an  hour  to  his  visitor,  trying 
meanwhile  to  discover  his  or  her  identity.  Everybody  takes  all 
in  good  part ;  none  are  angry  or  insulted,  but  all  are  happy. 

In  the  evenings  the  crowds,  I  may  say  the  entire  city,  as- 
semble at  different  places  in  attendance  at  the  masked  balls. 
These  are  as  numerous  and  as  varied  as  are  the  different  social 
sets. 

It  was  my  privilege  to  have  been  specially  invited  to  the  two 
of  the  masked  balls  which  represented  the  higher  classes  of  so- 
ciety. One  was  that  tendered  by  the  young  men  of  the  foreign 
element  to  the  senhoras  of  their  acquaintance,  in  whose  delightful 
and  refined  homes  they  had  been  pleasantly  entertained  during 
the  previous  year.  This  sociable  was  held  in  the  large  home  of 
one  of  the  best  families  of  Para. 

I  can  avoid  any  necessity  for  explaining  this  truth  by  stating 
that  it  was  the  home  of  my  friend,  the  Portuguese  cashier  of  the 
English  bank,  the  father  of  the  trio  of  pretty  senhoras  Ninita, 
Zizi  and  Zeta. 

This  family  home  was  located  in  the  Estrada  St.  Jeronymo, 
so  well  remembered  by  foreigners  who  have  been  kindly  enter- 
tained under  its  spreading  roof. 


262  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

The  house  is  large,  of  the  usual  cottage  style,  but  covers  a 
great  deal  of  ground,  being  situated  in  a  pleasant  tropical  garden 
in  the  suburbs.  The  dining  room,  where  the  social  gatherings 
are  held,  is  quite  large.  Indeed,  it  is  probably  larger  than  any 
other  two  of  the  rooms,  being  arranged,  no  doubt,  with  a  view  of 
entertaining  a  number  of  visitors. 

His  family  is  large.  In  addition  to  the  three  grown  sisters 
there  is  a  son,  a  young  doctor  and  a  younger  daughter  Alee,  who 
is  not  yet  "out,"  but  who  nevertheless  takes  an  active  part  with 
her  younger  brother  in  all  the  dances.  They  begin  early  in  that 
country  and  are  taught  to  dance  soon  after  the  babies  walk. 

On  the  occasion  of  the  grand  private  mask  ball  of  the  year, 
all  the  young  people  of  that  set  attended  in  full  costume,  and  they 
comprised  innumerable  cousins  and  friends,  accompanied  by 
uncles  and  aunts.  This  was  perhaps  more  of  a  fancy  dress  than 
of  a  mask  character. 

I  regret  exceedingly  my  inability  to  describe  this  wonderful 
exhibition  of  fancy  dry  goods  witnessed  during  that  night  on  the 
Amazon.  Only  a  lady  expert  in  such  matters  would  be  competent 
to  do  it  justice. 

All  the  younger  people  and  most  of  the  older  were  nicely 
attired,  and,  as  no  two  were  alike,  it  follows  that  the  whole 
presented  a  bright  scene. 

There  were  fairies,  flower  girls,  hobgoblins  and  what  not. 
The  charming  hostess,  Ninita,  as  a  fairy  queen,  made  a  grand 
entree  from  the  large  garden  while  red  lights  were  burning,  cast- 
ing their  weird  reflections  onto  the  palm  and  cinnamon  trees. 

She  was  beautifully  arrayed  in  white  and  wore  the  first 
decollete  toilet  I  had  seen  in  Para,  which  fact  seemed  to  embar- 
rass her.  Perhaps  it  was  because  I  showed  so  much  .surprise  at 
the  innovation  as  she  approached  me  on  her  round,  distributing 
the  beautifully  printed  programs   for  the  evening. 

One  lady  on  this  evening  wore  a  robe  made  up  entirely  of 
the  richest  and  rarest  feathers  of  the  birds  of  brilliant  plumage, 


A  FUNERAL   AND   A   CARNIVAL.  263 

that  may  be  seen  only  in  Amazonia.  Her  dress  would  no  doubt 
become  the  admiration  of  any  gathering  in  our  land. 

My  other  little  sweetheart,  Zizi,  not  larger  than  a  piece  of 
chalk,  looking  even  smaller  in  short  skirts,  skipped  about,  laughing 
all  the  time,  carrying  a  tray  of  flowers.  She  represented  a  flower 
girl. 

Zeta  was,  I  believe,  dressed  in  black  lace,  over  which  were 
embroidered  silver  stars ;  a  most  becoming  dress  for  a  representa- 
tion of  the  star  of  the  evening. 

A  couple  of  mighty  pretty  little  girls  resembling  Jewesses, 
whom  I  had  not  previously  met,  took  my  fancy  on  account  of 
their  brightness  and  beauty,  but  neither  of  them  could  speak  a 
word  of  English.  "My  soul"  with  the  wicked  black  eyes,  with 
her  sister  and  companions,  of  St.  Jeronymo,  were  also  present. 
The  best  English  boys  took  the  most  active  part  in  making  the 
affair  enjoyable,  and  to  their  efforts  and  attendance  is  due  the 
credit  of  carrying  it  to  a    most  happy  termination. 

Good  music  was  supplied  and  an  abundance  of  refreshments 
served,  which,  with  the  dancing  and  the  crowd  of  pretty,  black 
eyed  girls,  each  with  an  English  blond  for  a  partner,  made  it 
indeed  a  happy  event. 

The  host  and  hostess  are  of  French-Portuguese  extraction, 
the  mother  being  one  of  the  best  preserved  women  of  Para ;  as 
gay  and  as  happy  as  the  youngest  of  her  large  family.  The 
parents  unite  with  their  children  in  entertaining  the  young  visitors, 
all  of  whom  are  well  treated  if  they  are  worthy  of  consideration, 
without    regard  to  their  nationality. 

The  foreign  visitors  are  more  numerous  at  this  elegant  home 
than  are  the  Brazileiros. 

It  unfortunately  occurred  that  this  private  fancy  dress  so- 
ciable was  given  on  the  same  night  on  which  the  annual  fancy 
dress  of  the  Para  swell  social  club  was  to  be  given,  so  that  I  re- 
tired about  midnight,  and  with  my  chaperon  was  driven  to  the 
highest  toned  social  affair  of  the  season. 


264  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

The  Assemblea  Paranese,  it  should  be  known,  is  a  club  or 
social  representing  strictly  the  upper  four  hundred  of  Para, 
though  probably  its  actual  membership  is  circumscribed  to  two 
hundred  of  the  creme  de  la  creme  of  Para  society. 

The  assemblea,  pronounced  as  if  spelled  assemblay  ah,  is  a 
wealthy  corporation,  which  owns  a  large  building  that  has  been 
constructed  expressly  for  their  use.  It  contains  a  large,  well 
ventilated  dancing  room,  from  which  porticos  or  verandas  may 
be  reached  through  the  numerous  richly  draped  windows  that 
extend  to  the  floor.  There  is  adjoining  this  a  music  room,  where 
the  large  and  complete  orchestra,  also  under  the  control  of  the 
managers  of  the  assemblea,  is  placed. 

The  walls  are  appropriately  decorated  and  the  seats  for  the 
visitors  comfortably  arranged.  There  is  also  a  large  banquet 
hall,  in  which  are  a  number  of  tables.  Around  these  the  old  gen- 
tlemen sit  and  play  the  Brazilian  games  of  cards,  while  the  younger 
folks  dance. 

A  refectory  or  refreshment  room  is  conveniently  arranged, 
as  also  dressing  and  retiring  rooms  for  ladies  and  gentlemen. 
In  short,  everything  necessary  for  comfort  and  style  is  here  sup- 
plied. 

The  difference  between  this  and  the  club  rooms  is  that  the 
assemblea  provides  for  their  lady  friends  handsomely ;  the  object 
being  a  weekly  meeting  for  dancing,  ladies  and  gentlemen  who 
are  members  being  admitted. 

A  lady  or  gentleman  member  may,  upon  a  written  application 
to  the  board  of  managers,  secure  an  invitation  for  a  friend,  but 
this  is  seldom  requested,  except  for  strangers,  as  it  is  expected 
that  any  desirable  residents  will  become  members  by  paying  the 
large  initiation  fee  and  contributing  to  the  current  expenses. 

I  had  the  honor  of  being  repeatedly  invited  to  the  assemblea, 
and  am  glad  of  an  opportunity  to  tell  my  American  friends  that 
I  have  never  met  anywhere  with  more  accomplished  and  pretty 
ladies,  handsome  and  courteous  gentlemen,  than  I  was  privileged 
to  become  acquainted  with  at  the  Assemblea  Paranese. 


•     A  FUNERAL   AND   A   CARNIVAL.  265 

We  found  a  line  composed  of  nearly  all  the  vehicles  in  Para 
on  the  street,  near  the  Assemblea  building,  where  we  drove  over 
at  midnight.  We  w'ere  cordially  received  by  the  committee,  and 
being  relieved  of  overcoats,  wdiich  are  necessary  in  that  damp 
climate  when  wearing  evening  dress,  walked  up  the  stairways 
and  were  quietly  ushered  into  the  moving  throng. 

As  long  as  life  lasts,  there  will  not  be  effaced  from  my 
memory  the  happy  impressions  of  that  hour. 

One  feels  when  among  strangers  a  certain  loneliness  even 
in  a  crowd,  but  there  was  an  atmosphere  of  refinement  pervading 
the  very  air  that  one  naturally  succumbed  to  its  good  influence. 
At  the  moment  of  our  entrance  the  splendid  orchestra  was  play- 
ing the  well  known  waltz,  Estudiantina  by  Emile  Waldteufel. 
I  glanced  into  the  dancing  room  at  the  moving,  graceful  figures, 
attired  in  rich  and  elegant  toilets  (for  the  grace  and  beauty  of 
Para's  capital  was  gathered  there).  Instinctively  my  eyes  first 
caught  those  of  the  very  one  I  wanted  to  see,  the  baron's  daugh- 
ter.   Great  Scott !    How  superb  she  did  look ! 

Her  costume  was  black,  which  I  had  so  often  told  her  was 
decidedly  becoming.  She  was  dressed  to  represent  Justice.  Her 
luxuriant  brown  hair,  profusely  powdered,  was  flowing  over  her 
shoulders,  which  seemed  very  white,  probably  because  of  her 
dark  dress,  though  she  is  a  pronounced  brunette.  Only  a  Spanish 
senhorita  or  a  Portuguese  senhora  can  drape  or  wear  black  lace 
with  such  fine  effect  and  the  soul  of  the  baron's  daughter  shone 
through  her  brown  eyes,  that  beamed  unutterable  words  as  she 
smiled  over  the  shoulders  of  the  savage  who  was  holding  her  for 
the  waltz. 

I  did  not  get  a  chance  to  talk  with  her,  and  it  is  just  as  well, 
perhaps,  as  I  should  not  have  been  able  to  properly  acquit  myself. 

I  imagined  that  each  person  in  the  crowded  room  had  one 
of  their  black  eyes  directed  toward  the  baron's  daughter  and  the 
other  on  the  consul.  It  was  not  altogether  imagination,  as  it  was 
well  enough  known  throughout  the  city  that  the  American  ad- 
mired their  pretty,  blooming  exotic.  There  was  no  secret  about 
it.      Had  he  not  made  love  through  the  American  newspapers 


266  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

which  had  reached  Para,  to  the  great  entertainment  of  the  entire 
people?  Naturally,  when  together,  they  expected  to  be  enter- 
tained. It  was  also  well  enough  understood  that  the  exotic  was 
not  only  smart  and  pretty,  but  also  a  most  accomplished  flirt. 
Therefore,  the  curious  observers  became  very  much  interested  in 
the  development  of  the  little  diplomatic  episode  between  the  old 
United  States  and  the  young  BraziHan  republic. 

I  could  only  compliment  her,  and  in  a  voice  tremulous  with 
emotion,  suggest  that,  as  a  representation  of  Justice,  she  should 
be  blindfolded  and  not  use  her  pretty,  brown  eyes  to  fascinate 
poor,  weak  Americans;  so  that  we  were  not  responsible  for  the 
wickedness  committed  by  reason  of  their  influence. 

Though  the  rooms  were  crowded  with  pretty  girls,  I  re- 
mained till  the  boa  noite.  I  did  not  see  any  one  but  the  baron's 
daughter.  The  following  days  I  attended  the  public  carnival 
balls  for  the  benefit  of  all  the  classes  alike,  held  in  the  grand 
Theatro  do  Paz. 

The  entire  lower  space  of  the  large  theater,  comprising  what 
we  call  the  orchestra,  is  floored  over  on  a  level  with  the  stage, 
which  in  itself  is  as  large  as  the  front  portion.  The  two  thrown 
together  make  an  immense  floor  space,  which  is  all  used  as  the 
general  dancing  platform. 

The  musicians  are  provided  with  a  temporary  balcony  in 
front  of  the  boxes  or  in  the  center  of  the  large  floor. 

An  admission  fee  of  about  two  dollars  is  collected  from  every 
attendant,  and,  as  the  entire  place  from  floor  to  dome  is  usually 
crowded,  it  goes  without  saying  that  these  mask  balls  are  finan- 
cially and  otherwise  successful.  Neither  expense  nor  labor  is 
spared  in  the  preparation  for  tlie  enjoyment  of  everybody  who 
may  desire  to  attend. 

The  entire  theater  being  thrown  open,  the  crowd  of  dancers 
may,  after  the  violent  exercise  of  the  fancy  dances,  rest  in  the 
box  chairs  or  repair  to  the  large  open  corridors  for  a  promenade 
while  cooling  ofiF. 


A   FUNERAL   AND   A   CARNIVAL.  267 

There  are  dressing  rooms  for,  ladies  and  gentlemen,  also 
refectories,  whicii  the  ladies  on  these  occasions  freely  patronize 
as  the  companions  of  gentlemen. 

The  dancers  are  all  in  complete  mask — that  is  the  general 
rule,  though  it  frequently  occurs  that  a  looker  on  may  be  unex- 
pectedly dragged  into  a  dance  with  a  charming  mask. 

I  believe  I  have  said  everybody  was  free  to  attend,  and  it 
looked  to  me  as  if  they  had  all  availed  themselves  of  the  privilege 
to  the  fullest  extent. 

As  the  majority  wore  not  only  masks,  but  grotesque  and 
fancy  costumes,  it  will  be  apparent  that  I  cannot  tell  who  were 
there ;  but  a  pretty  close  study  of  the  situation  and  strict  atten- 
tion to  details  satisfied  me  that  what  were  known  as  the  better 
classes  of  both  sexes  mingled  freely  on  this  occasion  with  those 
with  whom  they  would  not  publicly  recognize. 

The  British  consul,  attended  in  company  with  my  Brazilian 
friend,  who,  if  he  knew,  refrained  from  divulging  to  us  their 
identity.  He  would  chatter  in  Portuguese  and  laugh  in  English 
with  many  masks  whom  we  encountered  in  our  peregrinations  in 
the  crowds.  We  struggled  through  the  dancers,  ran  over  the 
stage  into  the  dressing  rooms ;  in  fact,  every  place,  and,  as  usual, 
saw  it  all  as  far  as  any  one  could  see  through  such  masks  as  they 
use  on  these  occasions. 

To  attempt  a  description  would  lead  into  a  confusion  worse 
confounded  than  I  experienced  while  looking  on  the  gay  scenes 
of  that  night. 

The  three  galleries  or  boxes  were  occupied  by  families. 
Fathers,  mothers  and  children,  who  looked  down  upon  the  bril- 
liant mass  of  richly  attired  humanity,  that  were  gracefully  and 
wildly  moving  in  accord  with  the  delightful  music  of  a  large  band. 

Many  persons,  like  ourselves,  not  in  mask  moved  about 
among  the  dancers.  Where  one  set  seemed  to  become  especially 
attractive  by  their  superior  dancing  or  gyrations  the  crowd  would 
gather  about  them,  forming  rings  inside  of  which  the  dancers, 
urged  on  by  the  applause  and  shouts  of  the  crowd,  abandoned 
themselves  wholly  to  the  excitement  of  the  moment. 


268  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

1  have  witnessed  the  famous  dancing  at  the  Jardin  de  Paris, 
the  Champs  Elysees,  as  also  at  the  AIouHn  Rouge,  in  Paris,  and 
those  readers  who  have  been  there  need  only  be  told  that  this 
Amazonian  carnival  is  an  exaggerated  imitation  of  the  nightly 
affair  of  Paris. 

Perhaps  I  am  justified  in  saying  that,  for  wild  and  yet  grace- 
ful dancing,  the  Amazonians  excel  their  French  masters.  Mixing 
of  a  little  French  or  German  or  English,  Spanish  or  Portuguese 
blood  with  the  Indian  and  African  makes  a  musician  and  a  nat- 
ural dancer,  a  trait  which  this  climate  fully  develops. 

One  of  the  most  attractive  of  those  dancers  was  a  young, 
well  formed  girl,  of  Indian  and  French  extraction.  She  was  at- 
tired as  a  page,  in  well  fitting  black  silk  tights,  her  face  concealed 
by  a.  domino.  Her  small  feet  were  encased  in  French  boots  (as 
they  call  shoes),  her  costume  showing  beautifully  proportioned 
limbs  and  body.  I  gathered  the  impression  that  I  had  seen  her 
before,  and  hung  around  her  set  a  long  time  in  a  fruitless  en- 
deavor to  penetrate  her  disguise.  I  could  only  discover  that  her 
flesh  w^as  so  near  the  color  of  her  tights  that  I  could  not  tell 
where  one  left  off  and  the  other  began.  So  I  gave  it  up  in 
despair. 

There  were  every  conceivable  kind  of  costumes  worn.  Per- 
haps all  those  that  had  done  duty  in  the  inauguration  day  pro- 
cession or  in  the  previous  nights'  balls  had  been  exchanged  or 
remodeled,  and  were  here  doing  duty  on  this  grand  occasion. 

Certainly  I  saw  there  more  than  one  elegant  costume  which 
was  worn  at  the  high  toned  assemblea,  but  undoubtedly  not  by 
the  same  person. 

The  English  and  German  gentlemen,  as  a  rule,  appeared  in 
fancy  costume,  and  in  this  way  got  a  little  closer  to  the  crowd, 
and  perhaps  had  a  little  more  fun  than  those  of  us  who  were 
lookers  on  in  Venice. 

There  seems  to  be  inherent  within  certain  temperaments  a 
strong  feeling  that  admonishes  them  of  the  presence  in  the  same 
room  of  some  other  persons,  either  a  friend  or  enemy,  whom 
thev  have  not  seen. 


A  FUNERAL   AND  A   CARNIVAL.  269 

A  great  many  persons  have  been  so  impressed,  and  subse- 
quently realized  the  actual  presence  of  such  affinities.  This  has 
frequently  occurred  in  my  life. 

On  this  occasion  I  felt  sure  that  some  persons  were  present, 
who  were  closely  watching  me,  and  especially  anxious  that  their 
identity  should  not  be  made  known. 

I  have  before  said  that  the  best  of  the  gentlemen  of  the 
upper  classes  came  to  these  balls  in  mask,  and  it  was  told  me  that 
they  were  frequently  attended  by  their  sisters,  who  were  also 
carefully  masked. 

I  noticed  a  number  of  couples  carefully  disguised  who  took 
no  part  in  the  dancing  and  only  looked  on  at  a  respectful  distance. 
They  would  walk  about  on  the  arms  of  the  gentlemen,  seldom 
speaking.  It  did  not  escape  my  observation  that  there  were  sev- 
eral couples  of  this  sort,  who  made  exclusive  groups,  usually 
promenading  in  a  little  procession  of  their  own.  I  did  not,  of 
course,  know  one  and  would  not  presume  upon  addressing  them. 

Some  of  the  characters,  beautifully  attired  as  Sisters  of  Mercy 
or  Charity,  were  escorted  by  what  seemed  to  be  a  portly,  good 
natured  old  padre.  I  have  always  felt  that  one  of  those  was  the 
baron's  daughter.  As  they  passed  near  me,  I  saw  only  brown 
eyes,  and  from  these  beamed  that  expression  which  could  only 
come  from  hers.  They  did  not  remain  long  and  neither  did  I 
after  the  departure  of  my  affinity. 

The  Theatro  was  so  crowded  and  so  hot  that  an  overflow 
ball  was  held  in  one  of  the  celebrated  Paranese  hotels,  well  known 
as  the  Cafe  Carneiro. 

As  this  was  near  my  hotel,  I  stopped  inside  and  took  an- 
other turn  at  investigation  on  my  way  home.  Like  the  Theatro, 
the  entire  house  was  thrown  open.  It  was  a  select  gathering  of 
the  kind,  being  composed  principally  of  those  who  ^Vere  known 
professionally  as  the  Italian  opera  troupe  then  performing,  or 
other  characters. 

Most  of  those  present  had  attended  the  Theatro  and  came 
here   to  unmask  and   have  refreshments  with   their   friends.      I 


270  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

found  a  number  of  familiar  faces  that  I  had  not  seen  at  the 
Theatre. 

Perhaps  the  finest  dancing  was  done  here  by  professionals 
who  were  competent  to  execute  the  cancan  in  all  its  varieties.  I 
confess  that  I  remained  much  longer  than  I  intended,  being  de- 
tained by  urgent  invitations  to  join  a  select  party  at  a  supper 
given  in  one  of  the  private  apartments  of  the  Carneiro. 

I  have  not  been  able  to  tell  the  half  of  this  night's  per- 
formance, but  I  had  all  the  fun  I  wanted  for  one  day  and  night. 


CHAPTER    XXVII. 

AGRICULTURE   AND    NATURAL    RESOURCES. 

RULY    Brazil   is   the   "Land   of  To- 
morrow." 

This  is  true  in  almost  every 
sense  in  which  it  may  be  applied  lo- 
cally to  Amazonia. 

The  wonderful  resources  in 
the  way  of  agricultural  possi- 
bilities, especially  in  the  staple 
articles  of  coffee,  sugar,  and 
cocoa,  are  practically  unlimited, 
while  the  natural  resources  that  are  indigenous,  such  as  rubber, 
nuts,  cabinet  and  dyewoods,  the  wonderful  contributions  to  our 
materia  medica,  the  hides  of  animals,  the  plumage  of  birds,  are 
as  yet  practically  unknown. 

Hundreds  of  square  miles  of  forests  of  the  most  luxuriant 
and  valuable  nature  have  never  yet  been  penetrated  by  man,  and 
the  rich  deposits  of  mineral  in  the  mountains  of  the  interior  are 
yet  to  be  prospected. 

What  lies  beyond  the  margins  of  the  rivers  is  as  yet  a  sealed 
book,  and  far  more  interesting  to  our  country,  than  the  fascinat- 
ing equatorial  Africa,  so  graphically  described  by  Stanley. 

It  is  a  land  also  of  fevers  of  all  kinds,  but  the  eternal  spring 
fever  is  more  disastrous  than  the  yellow  fever,  in  a  land  where 
spring  blooms  "eternal  in  the  human  breast." 

It  is  probably  true  that,  whatever  is  to  be  accomplished  in  the 
development  of  this  beautiful  land  of  manana,  must  come  through 
the  energy  and  enterprise  of  the  Anglo-Saxon,  reinforcing  the 
Latin  race  which  now  predominates. 


272  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

German  scientists  have  for  years  interested  themselves  in 
exploring  Amazonia.  The  French  government  naval  officials 
have  made  the  only  correct  survey  of  the  lower  river,  but  it  is 
well  known  that  the  English  practically  control  the  steam  navi- 
gation of  the  country  which  the  early  Portuguese  navigators  dis- 
covered. Excepting  the  early  explorations  of  the  Amazon  by 
the  naval  officers  St.  Herndon  and  Gibbon,  and  Professor  James 
Orton  and  the  ill-fated  Mamora  and  Madison  railroad  expedition, 
the  Americans  have  done  little  beyond  sending  their  gold  out 
through  the  English  banks,  with  which  to  pay  for  the  rubber  con- 
sumed in  the  United  States,  but  transported  to  New  York  by 
English  ships. 

The  Brazilians  have  made  some  commendable  efforts  in  the 
direction  of  local  exploration,  and  scientific  research,  also  occa- 
sional attempts  at  development  of  the  Amazon  basin,  but  com- 
paratively their  achievements  are  almost  nil.  A  majority  of  the 
native  Brazileiro  lack  the  energy,  if  not  the  ability  and  force  of 
character  required  to  accomplish  the  best  results.  They  are  not 
only  indifferent,  but  they  are  indolent,  due  to  the  climate  perhaps, 
being  content  to  live  from  day  to  day  the  same  monotonous  lives, 
sustained  by  what  they  gather  from  the  crumbs  that  fall  from 
the  table  of  foreigners  who  come  to  develop  their  country. 

If  you  question  the  average  Brazileiro  on  this  subject  of 
development  he  will  most  likely  answer,  "Oh,  it's  too  much 
trouble;"  or,  "What's  the  use?" 

The  native  is  never  in  a  hurry,  absolutely  never.  Like  many 
other  customs  which  in  this  land  are  reversed,  they  never  do  to- 
day what  can  be  done  tomorrow. 

If  one  is  urged  to  a  task,  he  will  likely  say,  with  a  surprised 
yawn  at  any  expression  of  urgency,  "Oh,  tomorrow  is  another 
day." 

On  one  occasion  I  had  some  business  in  the  alfandega  or 
custom  house,  with  one  of  the  officials,  who  received  me  cour- 
teously. 

I  was  in  a  hurry,  and  declining  the  proffered  chair,  proceeded 
to  the  business  in  hand  by  a  direct  question.     The  official  smiled 


AGRICULTURE  AND   NATURAL   RESOURCES,  273 

blandly,  put  his  hand  in  his  pocket,  drew  forth  the  cigarette 
papers,  case  and  pouch  which  they  all  carry,  and  after  first  tender- 
ing to  me,  began  to  leisurely  pull  out  the  tobacco  and  roll  it  slowly 
into  the  paper  with  that  easy  grace  which  only  a  Brazilian  can 
acquire;  As  he  did  not  show  any  signs  of  talking  on  the  business, 
which  was  of  a  mere  formal  character  and  required  no  diplomacy 
at  all,  I  ventured  to  repeat  my  question.  Looking  at  me  in  a 
surprised  way,  he  began  his  answer  by  the  preliminary  gush  they 
use  in  the  way  of  compliments. 

After  relieving  himself  of  the  formality  he  began  to  search 
for  a  match,  and  not  finding  any  in  his  own  pockets,  walked  to 
the  other  side  of  the  room  to  borrow  from  another  official,  stop- 
ping en  route  to  chat  with  him,  while  I  was  standing  or  walking 
about  the  floor  impatiently.  After  he  had  lighted  and  puffed  the 
cigarette,  he  answered  my  question.  There  was  no  disposition 
whatever  to  be  discourteous,  and  I  am  only  relating  one  of  many 
instances  of  the  kind  that  continually  occur. 

It  cannot  be  avoided.  It  is  one  of  the  customs  that  a  stranger 
must  endure  and  the  irritation  grows  to  anger  when  one  finds 
that  after  he  finally  does  get  a  reply  to  a  business  interrogatory 
it  seldom  gives  satisfaction,  and  the  performance  must  be  gone 
over  again  with  some  other  individual  equally  slow  and  tedious. 

When  a  Brazilian  talks  about  the  development  of  these  re- 
gions, his  first  and  last  lament  is  "a  lack  of  arms"  (falta  de 
bracos).  Just  as  though  there  were  not  twice  as  many  arms  as 
heads  in  Brazil  already. 

The  principal  trouble  is  a  lack  of  will  to  work.  The  men 
who  sigh  over  the  "lack  of  arms"  never  count  their  own  two  arms. 

The  liberated  slaves,  in  large  numbers,  are  afflicted  with  the 
same  rudimentary  and  undeveloped  indisposition  to  work.  In 
view  of  this  unanimity  of  feeling  on  the  subject  between  them 
and  their  former  masters,  the  latter  long  for  some  people  whom 
they  can  compel  to  work  for  them.  The  slaves  as  a  rule  do  not 
marry,  but  live  promiscuously.  Consequently  the  male  part  of 
the  population  liberated  by    the  emancipation  act  of  1888  have 


274  AN   AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

no  families  and  no  anchor  to  hold  them  to  labor.  The  present 
aim  of  the  government  is  to  introduce  a  class  of  people,  preferably 
Chinese,  who  will  be  in  a  condition  to  be  compelled  to  work  for 
those  who  have  capital  and  who  do  not  wish  to  work  for  them- 
selves, in  other  words,  a  serf  class  to  take  up  the  labor  of  the 
emancipated  slaves.  Besides  the  call  for  "arms,"  there  is  also  a 
great  opening  for  "heads'"  and  capital,  and  especially  a  little  con- 
science, to  be  mixed  with  reciprocity. 

While  confined  to  my  room  during  illness  I  found  it  quite 
a  relief  during  the  monotonous  days  to  continue  my  reports  on 
the  wonderful  resources  of  the  Amazon,  the  publication  of  which 
in  special  form  the  government  did  me  the  honor  of  continuing 
some  months  after  my  successor  had  relieved  me.  I  found  that 
practically  there  was  no  end  to  the  abundance  and  variety  of 
valuable  natural  productions  of  Amazonia  which  are  still  but 
slightly  touched,  or  not  at  all.  The  flora  of  this  part  of  Brazil 
is  especially  rich  in  plants  producing  available  textile  fibers. 

The  Baron  of  Marajo,  previously  mentioned  as  an  ex-presi- 
dent of  the  province,  late  commissioner  from  Para  to  the  Paris 
Exposition,  and  commissioner  to  the  Columbian  Exposition,  at 
Chicago,  and  the  Louisiana-Purchase  Exposition,  at  St.  Louis, 
published  an  excellent  monograph  on  the  textile  fibers  displayed 
at  these  expositions  and  especially  those  of  Amazonia,  which 
book  the  baron  kindly  sent  to  me,  accompanied  by  a  nicely  written 
note  in  excellent  English,  from  his  accomplished  daughter,  in 
which  she  stated  that  her  father  would  like  her  to  act  as  his 
private  Secretary  and  translate  the  articles  from  the  Portuguese 
for  me,  and  she  added,  "I  would  like  to  do  so,  but  I  really  cannot. 
I  do  not  know  enough  of  your  language,  which  I  seldom  speak, 
and  never  before  have  written."  This  note,  with  the  crest  of  the 
baron's  family  in  embossed  gold,  and  elegant  stationery  I  preserve 
as  one  of  the  rarest  prizes  from  Amazonia. 

Singularly,  the  baron  does  not  refer  to  the  wonderful  source 
of  supply  for  the  materia  medica.  He  mentions  fifty-four  dis- 
tinct species  of  plants  and  trees,  some  of  them  having  many  sub- 
varieties,  all  of  which  yield  valuable  textile  fibers,  and  most  of 


AGRICULTURE  AND  NATURAL  RESOURCES.  275 

which  are  indigenous  to  the  Amazon  valley,  all  of  which  grow 
there  and  are  available  for  an  infinite  variety  of  manufactures, 
such  as  cloth,  cord,  ropes,  mats,  hats,  baskets,  etc.  But  it  must 
be  remembered  that  almost  every  industry  there  is  vastly  differ- 
ent from  the  industry  of  a  similar  name  in  other  lands.  You 
cannot  introduce  American  methods  generally  into  these  indus- 
tries any  more  than  you  could  use  a  bob  sled  for  logging  on  the 
Amazon. 

There  are  known  to  be  rich  deposits  of  gold  on  some  of  the 
upper  tributaries  of  the  Amazon,  but  their  long  distance  from 
the  towns  and  the  intervention  of  rapids,  which  interrupt  the 
navigation  of  most  of  the  tributaries  for  part  of  the  year  at  least, 
have  been  a  great  barrier  to  development. 

The  gathering  of  Brazil  nuts  is  quite  an  extensive  industry 
during  two  months  of  the  year,  the  total  exportation  being  about 
eight  million  hectoliters  per  annum. 

India  rubber  is,  however,  the  great  industry  and  resource  of 
the  Amazon  valley,  an  exhaustive  report  upon  which  may  be  had 
from  the  Department  of  State.  It  was  my  own  investigation 
which  first  developed  that  there  is  great  danger  from  diminution 
of  supply,  rather  than  an  increase  of  rubber  production  in  the 
Amazon  valley. 

In  the  delta  or  lower  Amazon  are  many  rubber  forests  "worn 
out"  (cancados),  as  they  say  to  Portuguese.  No  legal  precautions 
were  taken  by  the  government  for  the  preservation  of  the  trees. 
The  instinct  of  the  rubber  gatherer  and  the  interests  of  the  owner 
are  the  only  law.  As  stated  in  official  reports,  if  but  three  gashes 
per  day  are  made  in  the  bark  of  the  tree,  and  the  hatchet  does 
not  strike  the  wood,  the  rubber  tree  does  not  seem  to  suflfer  from 
the  treatment,  the  only  result  being  that  the  trunk  of  the  tree  grows 
thick  and  the  surface  irregular  and  bumpy ;  but  it  will  continue 
to  yield  milk  in  abundance  for  thirty  or  forty  years,  and  continue 
in  good  health.  But  when  the  hatchet  wounds  the  wood,  decay 
begins  at  once,  as  the  wood  is  soft,  and  a  little  wood-weevil 
called  punilha  enters  the  decayed  spot  and  hastens  the  destruction, 
while  the  tree  drags  on  a  miserable  half  dead  existence  (  cancadoV 


276  AN   AMERICAN   CONSUL   IN   AMAZONIA. 

For  this  reason  many  rubber  swamps  on  the  lower  Amazon  are 
already  wholly  or  partially  abandoned  for  the  newer  swamps  of 
the  upper  tributaries. 

Renters  of  the  rubber  swamps  are,  of  course,  less  careful 
of  the  trees  than  are  the  owners  who  manage  their  own  work 
from  their  central  rubber  stations. 

The  Peruvian  rubber  or  caucho  forests  are  fast  disappear- 
ing, and  the  nearest  are  far  away.  The  practice  of  felling  the 
caucho  tree  to  collect  the  rubber  has  destroyed  all  the  trees  near 
the  rivers,  except  far  up  on  the  Ucayali  and  Javary  Rivers.  It 
is  affirmed  that  extensive  tracts  of  forest  have  not  been  touched, 
because  they  are  difficult  of  access,  on  account  of  the  distance 
from  the  rivers  and  the  lack  of  roads.  It  is  safe  to  assert  that  in 
the  near  future  all  the  available  caucho  forest  of  Para  will  have 
disappeared,  never  to  return.  This  early  report  of  mine  has  been 
confirmed  in  later  reports. 

There  is  no  doubt  as  to  the  practicability  and  immense  lucra- 
tiveness  of  planting  the  true  rubber  tree,  Hevea,  or  Siphonia 
elastica,  the  best  rubber  tree  in  the  world. 

The  seeds  or  nuts  are  abundant  and  easily  obtained  by  those 
who  will  personally  visit  the  country.  The  traders,  however,  will 
not  ship  any  seed,  being  careful  to  first  boil  any  specimens  sent 
abroad. 

They  are  somewhat  smaller  than  horse  chestnuts,  which  they 
resemble  in  shape,  growing  three  in  a  capsule,  which  bursts  with 
a  sound  resembling  a  firecracker  and  throws  the  nuts  some  dis- 
tance. 

In  one  day  a  man  could  gather  enough  of  them  to  plant  a 
quarter  section  of  land. 

They  germinate  easily  and  grow  rapidly.  They  need  plenty 
of  moisture  and  heat,  but  not  too  much  direct  sunlight  while 
young. 

The  young  rubber  trees  can  be  found  in  the  forests  and 
transplanted  with  facility ;  care  being  taken  not  to  plant  them  too 
deep,  spreading  out  the  roots  horizontally,  and  shading  ihcni  until 


AGRICULTURE  Ai\D  NATURAL  RESOURCES.  277 

they  have  reached  a  certain  height;  but  it  is  much  less  labor  to 
plant  the  nuts  in  a  garden  bed,  taking  care  to  protect  them  from 
the  sauba  ants  and  the  sun's  rays  until  they  are  ready  to  trans- 
plant. 

When  six  or  eight  inches  high  they  should  be  removed  to 
small  half  bushel  baskets  of  earth,  in  which  they  may  grow  until 
they  are  two  or  three  feet  in  height.  They  are  then  ready  to  be 
planted  where  they  are  intended  to  remain.  The  basket,  which 
costs  but  a  few  cents,  is  set  into  the  ground  with  the  plant,  just 
as  it  is,  and  the  work  is  done. 

The  trees  will  never  crowd  each  other  if  planted  twelve  to 
twenty  feet  apart.  This  would  give  over  five  hundred  trees  to 
an  acre  of  ground. 

This  land  needs  no  preparation.  The  young  trees  will  do 
well  if  planted  in  the  original  forest,  but  it  would  be  still  better 
to  plant  them  among  second  growth  of  last  year's  clearing. 

The  second  growth  would  give  the  necessary  shade  to  the 
young  rubber  trees,  and  they  would  soon  shoot   above  it. 

At  the  end  of  the  first  year,  the  young  trees  will  be  from 
eight  to  ten  feet  in  height,  and  from  twelve  to  fifteen  feet  at  the 
end  of  the  second  year.    No  cultivation  or  care  is  necessary. 

The  rubber  tree  thrives  well  on  both  low  and  high  land,  but 
in  order  to  yield  plenty  of  milk,  it  must  have  plenty  of  moisture 
in  the  soil,  part  of  the  year  at  least. 

For  example,  near  the  river  Purus,  where  the  flood  plains  are 
covered  with  water  from  one  to  three  or  four  months  in  the  year, 
the  trees  yield  milk  in  abundance ;  while  thrifty  trees  of  the  same 
sort,  not  reached  by  the  floods,  do  not  pay  for  the  trouble  of 
tapping  them. 

On  the  lower  Amazon  not  only  the  trees  on  the  tide  flats 
and  annual  flood  plains  yield  milk  in  paying  quantities,  but  also 
those  on  the  high  land  (terra  firma),  because  the  abundant  rains 
of  the  lower  Amazon  of  six  months  or  more  in  the  year  supply 
abundance  of  water  to  the  soil. 

The  extent  of  territory  in  the  Amazon  valley,  aggregating 
many  thousands  of  miles  of  forest  that  might  profitably  be  planted 


278  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

in  rubber  trees,  would  yield  not  only  rubber  enough  to  supply 
this  world,  but  might  safely  fill  the  contract  for  the  whole  solar 
system. 

The  great  advantage  of  a  compactly  planted  rubber  forest, 
or  grove,  would  be  the  saving  of  labor  in  traveling  through  the 
swamps.  The  rest  of  the  work  is  light  and  quickly  done,  except 
perhaps  the  coagulation  of  the  milk. 

Taking  the  most  unfavorable  figures  and  features  of  the 
rubber  swamps  and  applying  them  to  the  rubber  grove,  we  may 
calculate  that  the  man  Avho  cares  for  one  hundred  and  fifty  trees 
in  the  swamp  could  care  for  an  acre  in  the  grove  with  its  five 
hundred  trees. 

As  four  kilos  is  an  average  yield  from  the  one  hundred  and 
fifty  trees,  his  five  hundred  would  yield  him  fifteen  kilos  of  rubber 
per  day. 

One  dollar  per  kilo  has  been  perhaps  a  low  average  price. 
Thus  the  laborer  would  get  fifteen  dollars  per  day,  with  no  other 
expense  than  ordinary  living,  during  four  or  five  months  of  the 
year. 

Then  why  don't  they  plant  rubber  trees?  This  is  the  ques- 
tion that  Brazilians  are  now  beginning  to  ask  each  other. 

The  only  difficulty  in  the  way  is  that  it  takes  from  ten  to 
twenty-five  years  for  a  grove  to  become  profitable. 

It  is  a  long  time  to  wait,  but  every  one  confesses  that  it 
Avould  be  a  magnificent  investment  of  capital. 

The  few  experiments  that  have  been  tried  abundantly  es- 
tablish this  fact. 

I  collected  a  quantity  of  nuts,  and  some  leaves  of  the  tree 
at  different  stages,  as  well  as  sections  of  the  wood,  all  of  which 
I  sent  to  the  department  to  be  deposited  in  the  Agricultural  Mu- 
seum, at  Washington,  with  specimens  of  crude  rubber  as  it  is 
prepared  for  shipment ;  also  a  hatchet  used  to  tap  trees,  the 
earthen  cups,  and  implements  for  the  coagulation  of  the  milk. 

I  took  the  opportunity,  also,  of  recommending  to  the  depart- 
ment that  rubber  culture  might  be  a  successful  and  profitable  ex- 


AGRICULTURE  AND    NATURAL  RESOURCES.  279 

periment  in  our  country,  if  properly  undertaken,  in  the  Ever- 
glades of  southern  P'lorida. 

It  was  my  privilege  and  pleasure  to  have  spent  part  of  a 
winter  near  Orlando,  in  southern  Florida,  the  guest  of  some  old 
friends,  Prof.  O.  F.  Winkleman  and  wife. 

This  gentleman  has  made  a  special  study  of  the  branches  of 
forestry  and  agriculture  adapted  to  Florida,  being  the  owner  of 
extensive  orange  groves  beautifully  situated  on  the  spring  or 
source  of  all  the  lakes  of  that  region,  which  they  have  named 
Lake  Geno.  Around  this  crystal  lake  some  native  rubber  trees 
of  Ficus  elastica  variety  are  now  growing. 

As  the  region  of  overflowed  swamp  land  of  southern  Florida 
corresponds  with  those  of  the  Amazon  in  richness  of  soil,  humid- 
ity of  the  atmosphere,  and  warmth,  I  could  not  see  why  these 
immense  wastes  of  water  in  our  own  land  might  not  be  utilized 
in  the  cultivation  of  this  most  necessary  and  profitable  tree,  and 
respectfully  suggested  that  I  be  authorized  to  make  an  extensive 
collection  of  nuts  and  young  trees,  which  my  friend  Prof.  Winkle- 
man  would  undertake  to  experiment  with. 

The  department  replied  that  they  could  not  justify  the  ex- 
pense of  the  experiment.  I  was  shortly  relieved  from  my  con- 
sulate without  due  acknowledgment  of  my  services  in  this  direc- 
tion. Later  I  undertook  investigation  on  private  account,  and 
have  tried  to  give  the  American  people  the  results  of  my  obser- 
vations. 

The  Mexican  and  Central  American  governments  became  in- 
terested in  the  subject  of  rubber  cultivation,  resulting  in  some 
agreeable  correspondence  between  Sr.  Romero,  then  Mexican 
minister,  and  myself,  while  consul. 

It  is  safe  to  assert  that  over  a  hundred  million  dollars  of 
American  gold  were  lost  or  expended  in  the  promotion  of  rubber 
plantation  in  Mexico  and  Central  America  in  the  past  fifteen 
years,  and  probably  without  satisfactory  returns. 

Not  only  American,  but  foreign  capital  has  been  largely  in- 
vested in  this  way,  resulting  in  several  scandals,  especially  with 
English  or  American  investors. 


28o  AN   AMERICAN   CONSUL   IN   AMAZONIA. 

The  writer's  official  rubber  reports  and  suggestions  are  prob- 
ably responsible  for  this  early  agitation  of  rubber  growing  in 
]\Iexico  and  Central  America,  but  not  for  the  scandals. 

After  leaving  the  consulate,  exploitations  for  new  rubber 
territory  were  made  to  the  head  waters  of  the  Amazon,  and  later, 
on  my  return  to  the  United  States,  a  trip  was  made  to  the  Isthmus 
of  Tehuantepec  and  other  Mexican  rubber  territory,  also  to 
southern  Florida  and  Cuba,  in  these  efforts  to  foster  rubber  con- 
servation and  cultivation.  Though  these  researches  were  under- 
taken under  the  direction  of  rubber  interests,  I  showed  my  usual 
lack  of  policy  by  antagonizing  my  principals  by  reporting,  as  an 
expert  familiar  with  real  rubber  forests,  against  the  Mexican 
enterprises.  I  made  it  clear  that  the  Mexican  rubber  tree  was 
not  the  genuine  rubber  of  the  Amazon,  known  commercially  as 
Para,  or  botanically  as  the  Hevea,  but  of  a  decidedly  inferior 
grade,  similar  to  the  caucho  of  Peru,  known  in  Alexico  and 
Central  America  commercially  as  "central"  and  botanically  as 
''Castiloa  elastica." 

The  important  difference  is  that  Para  or  Hevea  is  worth 
fifty  to  seventy-five  per  cent,  more  than  caucho  or  centrals,  and, 
moreover,  the  Para  yields  fifty  per  cent,  greater  results  without 
injury  than  the  caucho.  There  is  as  great  a  difference  relatively 
as  between  gold  and  silver,  or,  in  other  words,  the  Para  giving 
cream  and  the  caucho  skim  milk. 

The  recommendations  from  my  visit  not  being  satisfactory  to 
the  promoters  of  Mexican  rubber  plantations,  who  were  interested 
only  in  selling  stock  certificates  through  florid  prospectuses  de- 
scribing the  profits  of  rubber  culture  based  on  Para,  which  they 
could  not  produce,  depending  on  inferior  caucho  plants,  my  work 
was  discredited. 

After  years  of  waiting  for  their  rubber  trees  to  mature  they 
now  find  they  had  planted  the  wrong  tree. 

Through  the  senators  from  my  State  and  other  officials  I  com- 
municated with  the  Secretary  of  Agriculture,  who  was  interested 
in  rubber  production,  and  was  referred  to  Mr.  Gifford  Pinchot, 


AGRICULTURE  AND  NATURAL  RESOURCES.  281 

chief  forester,  whose  first  question  was,  "Are  golf  balls    made 
of  hard  or  soft  rubber?" 

Later  on  I  had  several  brief  talks  with  Mr.  Pinchot  about 
the  transplanting  of  Para  rubber  in  the  Philippines,  and  I  treasure 
a  letter  in  Mr.  Taft's  handwriting,  when  he  was  governor  of  the 
Philippines,  regarding  the  transplanting  of  rubber  trees  in  the 
Philippines,  where  conditions  were  similar  to  those  of  the  Ama- 
zon, in  the  same  latitude.  I  tried  to  convince  Mr.  Taft  that,  if 
rubber  trees  were  transplanted  as  the  English  are  doing  to  Ceylon 
and  the  Straits,  it  would  make  our  possessions  as  valuable  in  time 
as  California  and  Alaska  had  become. 

I  tried  to  convince  the  officials  of  the  forcefulness  of  the 
assertion  in  my  official  reports.  That  gold  grows  on  the  rubber 
trees  of  the  Amazon  forests ;  that,  unlike  the  gold  and  silver 
mines,  it  was  not  required  to  expend  money  in  prospecting  or 
operating;  all  that  is  necessary  being  for  the  native,  with  his 
little  hatchet  or  a  wand,  to  enter  the  forest  and  tap  the  trees  when 
the  liquid  gold  flows  into  his  coffers. 

A  natural  Hevea  rubber  tree  will  yield  an  average  of  lacti  or 
milk  in  a  season,  which  will  coagulate  into  five  pounds  of  fine 
rubber,  worth  over  $5.00  in  gold  coin  in  any  market  of  the  world. 
It  will  do  this  without  any  labor,  for  forty  or  fifty  years. 

This  is  a  fine  yield  for  conservation  as  well  as  for  cultivation. 

Unquestionably,  the  most  valuable  product  of  the  soil  is  the 
rubber  tree,  which  is  grown  in  swamp  land  of  no  value  for  any- 
thing else. 

The  product  is  necessary  to  our  civilization,  and  a  war, 
blockading  the  Amazon  and  creating  a  rubber  famine,  would 
cripple  this  electric  age,  which  depends  upon  rubber  for  insula- 
tien  of  telegraph  and  telephone  wires,  motors,  lights  and  railroad 
air  brakes ;  to  say  nothing  of  the  increasing  demand  for  bicycle 
and  automobile  and  other  tires,  belting  and  packing  for  machinery, 
roofing,  flooring,  clothing  and  its  use  in  the  arts,  etc. 

My  investigation  of  the  rubber  began  with  my  consular  work 
and  was  pursued   as  an  electrical  expert  for  insulation,  and  has 


282  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL    IN    AMAZONIA. 

been  persistently  and  consistently  continued  by  study  and  re- 
search, as  outlined  in  the  pages  herewith,  which  are  offered  as 
a  practical  record. 

There  are  fortunes  to  be  made  in  Amazonia  outside  of  rub- 
ber business,  and  lost  also,  in  trade  and  government  contracts. 
Many  a  fortune  has  been  lost  in  a  day  in  rubber  speculation.  A 
large  number  of  the  business  houses  are  built,  or  rather  propped 
on  the  ruins  of  their  own  selves.  They  break,  settle  with  their 
creditors,  and  go  right  on. 

But  in  spite  of  the  appearance  of  Sodomic  corruption  in 
commercial  habits,  there  is  an  opportunity  for  making  fortunes 
by  fair  dealing.  In  fact,  the  foreign  houses  that  have  stood  the 
wear  and  tear  of  the  financial  crises  that  at  times  come  over  the 
Amazonian  trade  are  those  which  lean  most  strongly  toward  fair 
dealing. 

European  merchants  come  young  and  grow  up  in  the  busi- 
ness, and  are  there  to  stay;  consequently,  they  have  something 
of  a  reputation  at  stake,  and  an  incentive  to  fair  dealing. 

As  a  rule,  American  merchants  do  not  come  to  stay,  and 
adopt  the  Yankee  idea,  that  to  be  successful,  they  must  outdo 
Brazilians   in  business  smartness. 

Many  American  trading  houses  have  liquidated  in  Para, 
either  to  leave  the  place  or  to  continue  under  another  "alias." 

It  may  not  be  assumed  that  the  Americans  in  Para  are  the 
only  merchants  who  have  made  this  unfortunate  business  record. 
I  am  trying  to  tell  specially  of  the  efforts  to  introduce  our  trade 
in  that  land,  and  necessarily  detail  more  of  the  experiences  of 
our  own  countrymen. 

Though  the  American  record  seems  to  be  the  worst  in  the 
number  of  failures,  it  is  not  denied  that  in  aggregate  amounts 
and  figures  the  foreigners  excel. 


CHAPTER   XXVIII. 

O  CONSUL  RELIEVED  ON   MEMORIAL  DAY,   MAY  30. 

URING  slow  convalescence  from  a  seri- 
ous illness  I  learned  from  the  new^spa- 
pers  of  the  nomination  of  a  gentleman 
from  Ohio  as  consul  to  Para,  my  name 
being  freely  published  by  the  Washing- 
ton correspondents  as  having  been  re- 
called through  the  influence  of  that 
cabal  who  claim  to  make  and  unmake 
men.  This  w-as  an  injustice  to  me  which  the  department  per- 
mitted. But  despite  the  enterprise  of  the  Washington  corre- 
spondents, it  will  be  seen  I  had  remained  consul  a  year  longer 
than  I  had  intended. 

The  government  did  not  seem  to  be  in  so  much  of  a  hurry 
to  dismiss  me  as  I  was  to  be  relieved,  so  that  I  might  carry  out 
my  purpose  of  visiting  the  upper  Amazon  regions. 

My  report  to  the  department  had  made  it  clear  that  no  first 
class  American  citizen  would  come  to  Para  as  consul  and  stay, 
simply  because  the  ordinary  expense  of  boarding  for  one  person 
alone  exceeds  the  salary.  I  proved  this  by  sending  to  the  de- 
partment receipted  board  bills  for  several  months,  with  the  urgent 
recommendation  that  the  salary  of  my  successor  be  doubled.  It 
lias  since  been  more  than  doubled  and  a  deputy  and  clerk  added. 
I  found  it  also  true  that,  in  sickness,  Brazil  is  the  "land  of 
tomorrow."  An  Anglo-Saxon  who  may  become  ill  in  the  climate 
of  the  equator  will  find  that  recovery  is  slow,  though  illness  may 
be  rapid  enough.  The  heaviness,  as  well  as  the  dampness,  of 
the  atmosphere  seems  to  prevent  speedy  recuperation.  There  is 
no  ozone  in  the  air.  A  convalescent  must  leave  the  country  to 
facilitate  recovery.     This  was  the  physician's  advice  to  me,  but 


284  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

not  being  relieved,  1  could  not  desert  my  post,  as  there  was  no 
vice-consul  to  act.  I  had  not  made  any  later  appointment  hoping 
that  I  would  be  relieved  soon. 

The  President  appointed  as  my  successor  a  gentleman  who. 
upon  his  arrival,  informed  me  that  he  had  been  an  applicant  for 
a  consulate  for  eight  years,  and  was  glad  to  get  Para.  He  also 
stated  in  the  first  interview  that  he  had  been  a  hospital  attendant 
in  General  Harrison's  brigade  during  the  war.  I  do  not  mean 
to  infer  that  this  was  mentioned  in  the  way  of  a  qualification. 
Probably  it  was  to  indicate  the  "influence"  of  the  war  association. 
He  had  since  then  become  a  pharmacist  and  doctor,  and.  to  the 
astonishment  of  several  gentlemen  whom  he  met,  announced  that 
he  had  sacrificed  a  lucrative  practice  in  Ohio  to  come  to  Para 
for  his  health. 

He  was  relieved  after  a  short  service,  and  later  became  an 
inmate  of  a  soldiers'  home,  dying  there  recently. 

Personally,  I  was  as  happy  to  see  my  relief  as  if  it  were  a 
brother  who  had  come  to  my  sick  chamber  to  take  me  home. 
The  new  consul  was  a  middle  aged  gentleman,  wearing  a  full 
beard,  rather  below  the  medium  height,  one  of  those  energetic, 
positive  little  men  who  impress  one  at  first  as  a  distinctive  type 
of  the  Yankee  race.  He  created  the  impression  that  he  would 
not  only  make  a  good  consul,  but,  like  the  traditional  new  broom, 
would  correct  the  mistakes  of  his  predecessors,  regardless  of  the 
climate  or  other  obstacles. 

Though  quite  ill.  and  barely  able  to  walk  about,  I  introduced 
my  successor  personally  to  everybody  whom  I  had  known,  friends 
and  enemies  alike,  expressing  to  each  and  all  a  sincere  wish  that 
they  would  help  to  make  his  social  walk  more  agreeable  than 
mine  had  been. 

One  English  gentleman  feelingly  said  to  me,  on  this  occa- 
sion, "Mr.  Consul,  if  you  had  been  properly  introduced  by  your 
predecessor,  as  you  have  done  by  your  successor,  it  would  have 
saved  us  all  some  wretched  business.  We  had  to  find  you  out, 
and  have  learned,  against  our  prejudice,  to  appreciate  and  respect 
you."    Then,  turning  to  the  new  consul,  he  added,  "Your  prede- 


O    CONSUL    RELIEVED.  285 

cessor  has  cleared  away  all  the  barriers  from  your  path  and  made 
it  possible  for  you  to  have  a  clear  walk-over."  Another  English- 
man explained  brusquely:  "The  situation  is  reversed.  The  major 
was  unfortunate  in  following  a  personally  popular  man.  His  suc- 
cessor comes  after  one  who,  however  unpopular  he  may  have 
been  at  first,  always  remained  a  gentleman." 

Through  the  missionary's  reports  regarding  my  predeces- 
sor's singular  social  attachment,  as  well  as  his  successor's  alleged 
too  numerous  attentions  to  society  exactions,  the  government  no 
doubt  concluded  it  would  be  advisable  to  send  a  married  man  to 
Para. 

The  new  consul  was  accompanied  by  his  wife,  whom  he 
proudly  introduced  as  a  most  estimable  lady.  He  was  quite  effu- 
sive in  volunteering  his  early  love  experiences,  explaining  that  he 
had  first  met  his  wife  when  he  was  an  attendant,  and  she  a  nurse, 
at  one  of  the  hospitals  of  the  army.  She  was  a  large  lady,  taller 
than  her  husband,  with  robust  frame,  a  strongly  marked  face, 
with  an  expression  of  determination  indicating  that  its  possessor 
could  upon  occasion  take  care  of  herself  in  any  land.  The  British 
consul  said  she  resembled  the  steel  engraving  pictures  of  George 
Washington. 

To  my  sincere  expressions  of  sympathy  for  any  lady  in  her 
position  who  must,  from  the  customs  of  the  place,  become  lonely 
and  isolated,  she  replied  in  tones  that  were  unmistakable  in  their 
character,  which  at  once  relieved  my  apprehensions,  'T  don't 
care  a  cent  what  other  people  do  or  think.  I  am  here  to  stay,  and 
will  pursue  my  own  way  regardless  of  custom."  She  informed 
me  she  was  a  professional  lady,  a  nurse  or  a  pharmacist,  having 
kept  a  small  drug  store  of  her  own,  where  she  could  assist  her 
husband  and  make  a  little  extra  by  the  sale  of  cigars  on  Sunday. 

I  was  advised  by  my  successor  that  he  has  the  permission  of 
the  department  to  practice  medicine  among  this  people,  and  that 
his  wife  was  to  draw  the  salary  of  consular  clerk  and  assist  in 
the  pracetice. 

I  was  glad  to  see  they  had  the  opportunity  to  eke  out  an 
existence  by  engaging  in  philanthropic  missionary  work.     I  real- 


286  AN   AMERICAN   CONSUL   IN   AMAZONIA. 

ized  that  it  would  be  a  revelation  to  those  people  to  have  a  female 
doctor  practicing  with  them.  Attention  is  called  to  the  incon- 
sistency of  the  department,  permitting  a  successor  to  engage  in 
his  business,  while  they  persistently  declined  to  allow  me  to  follow 
mine,  which  was  equally  important — that  of  trying  to  educate  our 
people  through  the  press  to  the  importance  of  the  business  of 
the  Amazon  valley.  I  knew  very  well  that  the  numerous  Portu- 
guese doctors  of  Para  would  protest  as  violently  against  a  doctor 
coming  into  their  field  as  the  Para  journalists  did  to  my  work. 

On  the  30th  of  May  (Memorial  Day),  ever  memorable  to 
me,  and  the  date  of  my  appointment  and  relief  as  consul,  I  for- 
mally turned  over  the  consulate,  completing  the  ceremonial  duties 
by  calls  on  the  governor  and  officials,  and  the  distribution  of 
P.  P.  C.  (pour  prendre  conge j  cards  to  numerous  colleagues  and 
friends  as  well  as  enemies. 

On  the  morning  of  the  following  day,  at  9  a.  m.,  I  em- 
barked on  an  Amazon  steamboat,  but  not  for  home.  The  govern- 
ment at  Rio  de  Janeiro  gave  me  a  special  passport  through  the 
United  States  legation,  with  endorsements  identifying  me,  which 
would  be  good  anywhere  in  Brazil,  it  being  understood  that  I 
proposed  to  penetrate  the  interior  by  a  long  journey  to  the  head 
waters  of  the  Amazon.  This  was  literally  going  from  the  frying 
pan  into  the  fire,  as  malarial  fevers  at  that  time  were  prevailing 
throughout  the  interior ;  but  I  was  well  supplied  by  Dr.  Bricio 
with  remedies  in  case  of  a  relapse. 

I  subsequently  learned  that  the  friends  who  came  to  see  me 
ofi  that  morning  expressed  the  belief  that  I  would  never  return, 
and  the  genial  general  manager  of  the  Amazon  company.  Captain 
John  Hudson,  said,  as  he  bade  me  good-bye  with  kindly  words 
of  cheer,  ''It's  only  the  live  fish  who  go  up  stream." 

Being  relieved  of  my  duties  as  consul,  the  narrative  of  that 
experience  ends,  but  as  a  matter  of  compliment  I  have  continued 
to  be  addressed  as  "The  consul"  to  the  present  day  during  my 
several  revisits  to  Para. 

To  Captain  Hudson  I  am  indebted  for  an  ofificial  letter  which 
gave  me  unlimited  passage  to  go  as  1  pleased  on  any  of  the  Ama- 


O    CONSUL    RELIEVED.  287 

zon  steamers  during  six  months.  This  was  substantially  a  free 
pass  to  "Sun  Set"  that  I  highly  appreciated  as  a  personal  com- 
pliment after  I  had  ceased  being  a  consul.  Its  intrinsic  value  will 
be  understood  when  it  is  explained  that  the  Amazon  company 
owned  fifty  fine  steamers,  which  cover  fifty  thousand  miles  of 
navigation,  extending  from  the  Atlantic  Ocean  to  the  Orient  of 
Peru,  Cis-Andine  Bolivia,  and  Venezuela,  via  the  Amazon  and 
its  innumerable  tributaries. 

The  Amazon  steamboats  along  the  water  line  are  modeled 
like  those  in  our  rivers  and  bays.  They  are  generally  wider  and 
present  a  squatty  appearance,  as  compared  with  the  trim  steamers 
on  our  rivers. 

They  are  not  built  for  speed,  but  are  well  adapted  for 
carrying  cargoes.  The  lower  decks  are  constructed  especially  for 
the  convenient  handling  of  rubber  and  other  solid  freight  in  the 
holds,  and  cattle,  horses  and  sheep  on  the  after  deck.  The  decks 
below  are  open  all  around,  quite  like  a  southern  cotton  boat  in 
the  United  States. 

The  engines  are  located  about  the  same  as  ours.  They  are 
English  of  the  low  pressure  class,  and  not  so  noisy  as  our  high 
pressure  type. 

Those  that  run  into  the  numerous  tributraies  are  propelled 
by  patent  feathering  side  wheels.  These  are  not  nearly  so  large 
as  are  our  paddle  boxes,  the  tops  of  the  wheel  house  not  reaching 
above  the  cabin. 

The  upper  deck  is  well  arranged  for  the  passenger  traffic 
of  the  equator.  A  few  staterooms  are  located  in  the  center 
opening  on  each  side  on  a  roomy  promenade  deck. 

There  are  no  cabins.  The  tables  are  set  in  the  after  part  of 
the  upper  deck,  under  the  awnings.  When  necessary  to  protect 
their  open  saloon  from  a  rain  storm  or  an  evening  or  morning 
sunbeam,  the  canvas  curtains  around  the  guards  are  let  down. 

The  commandante  occupies  a  small  room  forward,  alongside 
of  which  is  the  escriva  or  clerk,  and  "immediato"  or  first  officer. 
The  half  dozen  or  more  small  rooms  on  each  boat  are  intended 


288  AX    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

for  lady  passengers  or  foreigners  who    do  not  care  to  sleep  on 
deck. 

On  his  travels,  as  at  home,  the  native  sleeps  in  a  hammock. 
He  could  not  be  prevailed  upon  to  occupy  a  bunk  in  one  of  the 
staterooms. 

"  When  a  Brazileiro  or  Amazonese  prepares  for  a  journey  up 
the  river,  he  invariably  packs  a  hammock  or  rede  with  his  lug- 
gage, and  he  never  omits  the  netting  to  protect  him  from  the 
mosquitoes. 

On  all  steamers  of  these  waters  hooks  are  attached  to  the 
rafters  or  supports  of  the  upper  deck,  for  the  convenient  string- 
ing of  the  passengers'  hammocks.  One  of  the  first  things  a  passen- 
ger does  after  getting  aboard  is  to  appropriate  the  most  desirable 
place  in  which  to  hang  his  hammock. 

They  do  not  wait  until  night,  but  at  once  stretch  their  ham- 
mocks, put  on  slippers  and  pajamas  and  prepare  to  enjoy  the 
tedious  voyage.  The  boat,  when  about  to  sail,  presents  a  picnic 
or  excursion  appearance. 

The  passengers  lounge  in  their  redes  all  the  long  days,  smok- 
ing cigarettes,  laughing  and  chattering  to  each  other  in  that  happy, 
childish  manner  peculiar  to  these  people.  At  night,  if  it  is  a  little 
cool  or  the  draft  of  the  moving  steamer  too  strong  for  their  thin 
blood,  they  will  wrap  themselves  up  in  a  "rug,"  as  the  English 
call  their  traveling  shawls,  and  rest  soundly,  lulled  to  sleep  by 
the  gentle  roll  of  the  slowly  moving  boat  and  the  monotonous 
sound  of  the  paddle  wheels  that  continue  to  revolve  without  a 
stop  for   days. 

The  wheelhouse  and  the  pilots  are  on  the  cabin  deck,  well 
forward.  Each  boat  has  one  or  two  short  masts,  to  which  they 
may  rig  a  sail  when  needed,  for  this  inland  voyage  is  quite  like 
going  to  sea.  There  are  no  coaling  stations  on  the  way.  If  a 
boat  is  disabled,  it  must  drift  or  anchor  until  a  passing  boat  comes 
to  its  relief. 

Such  was  the  boat  on  which  the  sick  consul  embarked  one 
Jime  morning,  bound  for  Peru  and  the  Andes. 


Major  J.  Ortox  Kerdey 

Ex-Consul  to  Para,  Brazil,  and  author  of  "The  Boy  Spy."  a  Civil  War 
Episode.  "The  Land  of  To-Morrow,"  Etc.,  Etc. 

Major  Kerbey.  late  of  the  staff  of  the  Pan-.-Xmerican 

Union  Bureau,  has  visited  South  America  four  times 

and  proposes  to  make  another  trip  in  .April,  l!'ll. 


O    CONSUL   RELIEVED.  289 

There  was  not  one  among  the  forty  or  fifty  passengers  aboard 
who  could  speak  a  word  of  English.  The  old  captain  made  some 
attempts,  but  as  regards  companionship,  in  the  way  of  conversa- 
tion, I  was  indeed  alone — a  stranger  journeying  alone  and  sick  in 
a  strange  land — yet  I  was  not  entirely  unknown  to  them.  Indeed 
everybody  seemed  to  have  learned  that  a  Jonah  was  aboard,  and 
they  were  curious  as  to  my  errand  or  perhaps  interested  in  what 
he  would  have  to  print  in  the  American  newspapers  about  their 
country. 

Some  days  after,  when  a  young  German  friend,  the  chief 
bookkeeper  for  the  Amazon  company,  joined  us  at  Santarem  I 
had  a  chance  to  let  my  tongue  loose.  We  happened  ashore  one 
day  and  visited  the  usual  apology  for  a  town,  which  consisted  of 
the  omnipresent  church,  some  scattered  huts  and  a  few  desolate 
shops  and  dirty  half  clothed  natives.  While  in  one  of  the  shops, 
my  German  friend  introduced  me  as  the  American  consul,  when, 
to  my  surprise,  the  head  of  the  establishment  and  all  the  loafers 
in  the  place  came  around  to  have  a  closer  look  at  me,  as  if  I  were 
a  rare  curiosity  from  another  world. 

My  interpreter  explained  that  these  people  had  asked  if  I 
were  the  "O  Consul  Americano"  they  had  read  about  in  the  Para 
newspapers,  and  on  his  answering  in  the  affirmative,  they  became 
quite  interested  in  inspecting  me. 

So  rt  appears  my  bad  reputation  had  preceded  me  even  to 
the  wilds  of  Amazonia,  over  seven  hundred  miles  from  Para. 
After  that  experience  I  turned  the  tables  on  my  German  friend 
by  inducing  the  captain  or  purser  of  the  boat  to  represent  my  Ger- 
man friend  as  the  "consul"  at  the  other  landings,  while  I  traveled 
incognito  as  the  general  manager  of  the  Amazon  company. 

We  had  lots  of  fun  during  the  latter  part  of  the  dull  and 
tedious  trip,  though  I  was  almost  too  weak  to  thoroughly  enjoy  it. 

One  day  on  the  Amazon  is  very  like  a  day  at  sea  or  when 
coasting  along  a  shore  or  among  tropical  islands,  when  all  is  quiet 
to  oppressiveness.  It  is  a  disappointment  to  every  one  who  has 
made  the  journey  up  the  Amazon,  because  of  its  tiresome 
monotony. 


290  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

I  sat  on  my  chair  with  my  feet  on  the  rails  during  the  hours 
of  every  day  for  a  week,  gazing  at  the  one  scene  passing  before 
me,  rich  and  gorgeous  as  it  was,  beyond  my  powers  of  descrip- 
tion. Yet  with  the  greatest  appreciation  of  the  beautiful  in  nature, 
one  gets  tired  of  this  superabundance  of  luxuriant  vegetation  that 
is  thrust  upon  the  eyes  from  every  direction. 

The  exquisite  colorings  of  the  flora,  the  twining,  clambering 
clustering  vines,  like  immense  boas,  form  lovely  arbors  for  tigers. 
For  a  background  are  innumerable  varieties  of  tall,  graceful  palms 
and  the  Brazil-nut  and  other  immense  trees. 

This  makes  a  continuously  changing  panorama  of  beauty. 

There  are  thousands  of  miles  of  these  scenes  along  the  banks 
of  the  great  Yellow  River,  from  the  ocean  to  the  Andes;  varied 
a  little  at  times  by  cocoa  orchards  that  begin  to  appear  in  the 
scattered  settlements  after  the  first  five  hundred  miles  of  the  lower 
flood  plains  have  been    passed. 

During  my  first  trip  the  water  was  unusually  high,  over- 
flowing the  surrounding  country  for  a  thousand  miles.  The  boat 
was  compelled  by  the  force  of  the  current  to  hug  the  shore  so 
closely  that  at  times  we  could  almost  touch  the  overhanging 
branches  of  trees. 

Each  evening  about  sundown  we  could  see  monkeys  jumping 
from  tree  to  tree,  chattering  about  the  passing  boat  like  chickaree 
squirrels  bark  when  a  hunter  with  his  dog  walks  through  the 
woods. 

Birds  of  beautiful  plumage  were  almost  always  in  sight.  Par- 
rakeets  in  flocks  like  blackbirds,  and  just  as  noisy,  kept  flying 
from  tree  to  tree  ahead  of  the  boat. 

Because  of  the  high  water  we  were  literally  out  of  sight  of 
land  all  the  time,  except  when  stopping  at  some  little  town  or 
settlement  on  the  occasional  bluffs  or  high  land  on  the  river  bank. 

The  Amazon  does  not  impress  one  who  travels  on  its  bosom 
as  being  a  river  at  all.  It  is  more  like  journeying  on  an  inland 
sea;  the  ship  or  boat  going  most  of  the  time  through  some  short 
cut  or  channel. 


O    CONSUL   RELIEVED.  291 

We  seldom  get  near  the  mainland,  properly  speaking.  The 
islands  are  so  numerous  and  the  channels  so  frequent  and  tor- 
tuous that  each  time  I  inquired  they  said  we  were  passing  an 
island.  Sometimes  we  were  in  a  wide  expanse  of  yellow  water 
like  a  bay  and  the  next  hour  were  creeping  through  a  cut  off,  so 
narrow  as  to  be  dangerous  when  meeting  a  boat  coming  down 
the  rapid  stream. 

Our  boat  was  eight  days  and  nights  of  the  pleasant  June 
weather  in  ascending  the  first  thousand  miles  of  the  Amazon. 

The  voyage  up  river  is  covered  frequently  in  less  than  half 
that  time  by  the  ocean  steamers  with  their  screw  propellers  and 
greater  power,  even  though  the  draft  necessitates  their  keeping 
in  the  middle  of  the  stream  when  they  have  the  current  to  contend 
with.  Neither  can  they  take  the  risk  of  running  through  the 
numerous  short  cuts  that  open  to  the  lighter  draft  paddlewheel 
boats. 

The  ocean  steamers  make  but  one  or  two  stops  in  the  thou- 
sand miles,  while  the  river  boats  call  at  all  important  landings. 
Time  and  speed,  however,  are  of  no  consideration  in  steamboating, 
as  in  everything  else  in  Amazonia.  Like  the  people,  the  boats  are 
never  in  a  hurry. 

In  a  word,  the  country  is  a  sea  of  forest,  dense,  pathless  and 
impenetrable.  I  might  follow  my  bent  for  comparisons,  and 
say  that  even  the  topographical  features  are  reversed  like  every- 
thing else  in  the  way  of  custom  and  climates  which  appears  upside 
down. 

The  forests  cover  three-fourths  of  the  surface  and  are  as 
pathless  as  the  ocean.  The  great  Amazon  outlines  a  mere  path- 
way, through  an  ocean  of  lovely  green,  waving  foliage. 

The  Amazon  valley  proper  has  never  been  explored.  Not- 
withstanding all  the  books  that  have  been  published  in  all  lan- 
guages on  the  Amazon ;  it  is  indisputable  that  the  writers  have 
generally  confined  their  investigations  to  what  they  have  been 
able  to  discover  from  the  decks  of  boats  or  investigation  at  settle- 
ments. 


292  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

However  small  the  boats  may  have  been,  they  have  not  gone 
beyond  the  margins  of  the  river. 

What  lies  beyond,  in  the  thousands  of  square  miles  of  moun- 
tainous interior,  is  a  sealed  book  whose  virgin  pages  must  be  cut 
and  turned  over  by  some   future  Stanley  of  Amazonia. 

Perhaps  I  saw  everything  through  the  eyeglasses  of  an  Amer- 
ican journalist,  but  1  must  admit  that  my  observations  can  be  told 
in  three  words  or  in  a  line — forest,  water  and  sky. 

The  few  settlements  or  houses  were  invariably  erected  on 
piles.  The  water  at  this  season  not  only  encircles  the  houses,  but 
is  underneath  to  a  depth  sufficient  to  require  the  use  of  a  boat, 
every  time  the  inmates  desire  to  go  out  of  doors.  The  live  stock, 
which  is,  fortvuiately,  limited  on  the  lower  Amazon  during  the 
floods,  collect  in  droves  with  wild  animals  on  some  higher  ground 
in  the  neighborhood. 

The  settler  on  the  river  plains  must  locate  convenient  to 
some  piece  of  ground  that  is  above  the  flood,  and,  as  such  land 
liable  to  be  overflown  is  uncommon,  it  necessarily  follows  that 
settlements  are  exceedingly  sparse. 

The  numerous  women  and  children  we  could  see  perched  on 
the  limbs  of  trees  and  on  high  platforms  about  their  houses  were 
apparently  jolly  in  their  isolation.  The  naked  boys  and  girls  of 
all  ages,  who  so  skilfully  paddle  their  canoes  out  to  the  passing 
boat,  shouted  and  laughed  at  us  as  if  they  were  having  a  good 
time. 

I  thought  then  that  the  only  way  to  properly  see  the  Amazon 
would  be  to  live  among  these  people  for  a  sea.son,  adopt  their 
aquatic  habits  as  far  as  possible  and,  through  the  use  of  their 
canoes  on  the  small  tributaries  and  availing  of  their  experience 
in  woodcraft  on  land,  penetrate  the  forests  through  to  the  Orinoco 
on  the  north  or  the  Rio  Plate  on  the  south  or  the  Amazon  proper 
to  its  source   in  the  Andes  in  Peru. 

A  steam  light  draft  launch,  ])roperly  fitted  for  the  express 
purpose  of  exj)loration.  whicli  the  occupant  could  use  as  a  home 


O    CONSUL   RELIEVED.  293 

or  base  of  operations,  is  the  only  means  of  reaching  the  innumer- 
able tributaries  of  the  Amazon. 

Santarem,  also  called  Tapajos,  is  a  beautiful  location  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Rio  Tapajos,  the  clear  water  from  which  comes 
from  the  mountains  of  that  part  of  the  interior  nearest  and  south 
of  the  Amazon. 

In  the  background  of  Santarem  are  some  picturesque  high 
grounds. 

This  point  is  considered  healthful,  as  its  name  indicates. 
There  is  little  malaria,  and,  strange  as  it  may  appear,  yellow 
fever,  which  prevails  on  either  side,  is  unknown  at  Santarem. 

The  American  settlement  at  Santarem  has  been  altogether 
unfortunate. 

It  was  a  sad  privilege  to  have  met  with  Mr.  Rhome,  the 
wealthy,  courteous  Southern  planter,  the  leader  of  the  enterprise 
who  so  hospitably  entertained  American  visitors  at  his  extensive 
ranches  on  the  beautiful  hillside  near  Santarem. 

I  found  only  a  wreck,  financially,  physically  and  mentally, 
of  this  once  almost  princely  American  gentleman. 

It  is  another  of  the  peculiar  features  of  this  climate  that  a 
continuous  residence,  without  any  change  of  scene,  weakens  men- 
tally, as  well  as  physically,  the  hardiest  Anglo-Saxon.  The  Eng- 
lish managers  recognizing  this  truth,  have  wisely  stipulated  in 
their  contracts  with  those  they  send  out  from  home  that  each 
person  shall  be  required  to  visit  his  home  once  in  every  two  or 
three  years.  A  vacation  of  six  months,  with  pay,  is  given  to  all 
English  employes  who  serve  for  that  period  in  Brazil. 

The  exploration  of  the  Tapajos,  which  flows  from  the  south, 
is  nearly  as  interesting  as  that  of  the  Amazon.  There  is  a  species 
of  Brazilian  ant  so  vicious  and  numerous  that  they  actually  com- 
pelled abandonment  of  a  town  by  their  persistent  attacks.  The 
empty  houses  are  yet  standing. 

This  is  not  an  exaggeration,  any  more  than  the  statement 
that  at  Obidense,  which  is  the  only  point  where  the  Amazon  water 
flows  between  two  banks,  the  Brazilian  military  authorities,  at 


294  AN   AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

great  expense,  erected  a  fortress  of  masonry,  every  stone  for  which 
came  from  abroad. 

It  is  quite  a  large  work,  which  I  visited,  and  upon  the  massive 
walls  saw  numerous  heavy  cannons  of  the  old  Spanish  or  Portu- 
guese type,  that  had  fallen  from  their  wooden  carriages  through 
dry  rot. 

This  extensive  fort,  covering  acres  of  ground  on  the  hill 
tops,  at  the  most  prominent  point  in  the  Amazon  valley,  had  been 
abandoned  on  account  of  the  attacks  of  the  ants  and  mosquitoes. 

Hordes  of  insects  attacked  the  garrisons  so  incessantly  that 
these  actually  compelled  the  retreat  of  the  garrison. 

Though  the  river  at  this  point  is  not  so  wide  as  elsewhere, 
it  is  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  deep — sufficient  to  admit  the  flow 
between  its  banks  of  the  entire  volume  of  waters  that  constitute 
the  Amazon.  This  is  the  dividing  line  between  the  state  of  Para 
and  Amazonas,  five  hundred  miles  from  Para,  and  in  a  sense  the 
dividing  line  between  lower  Amazon  rubber  and  cocoanut  and 
hide  industries. 

Beyond  Obidense  is  an  immense  rubber  territory,  principally 
on  the  low  lands  of  the  numerous  tributaries.  Beyond  these  foot- 
hills may  be  discovered  the  horizon  of  the  distant  mountains. 

Nobody  could  tell  anything  about  these,  except  that  they 
were  the  homes  of  tigers  and  innumerable  wild  beasts  that  infest 
those  regions. 

Among  the  most  valuable  wild  animals  of  the  Amazon  which 
I  had  been  commissioned  to  collect,  if  possible,  for  the  new  na- 
tional zoological  garden,  at  Washington,  were  the  jaguar,  which 
they  valued  at  a  hundred  and  fifty  dollars,  while  an  ocelot  or 
leopard  cat  was  only  worth  two  dollars. 

A  spectacled  bear  from  the  Andes  was  especially  desired. 
Tapirs  abound  on  the  hills,  and  a  rare  specimen  is  the  dolphin, 
of  the  upper  Amazon.  The  most  interesting  animal  that  I  met 
with  was  the  great  ant-eater,  which  is  quite  valuable.  The  smaller 
species  are  common.  A  giant  armadillo  is  only  valued  at  ten 
dollars. 


O    CONSUL   RELIEVED.  295 

I  had  a  couple  of  little  sloths  that  would  crawl  over  a  stick 
held  in  my  hand  like  sick  rats.  The  bird  that  I  desired  most  of 
all  to  procure  was  the  condor  of  the  Andes,  which  I  saw  later, 
and  was  disappointed  and  disgusted  at  its  appearance. 

Harpy  eagles  are  as  plentiful  as  vultures  and  toucans  or 
mascaws.  An  umbrella  bird  may  be  obtained  from  any  native  for 
a  trifle. 

The  high  waters  compel  the  animals  of  the  lower  Amazon 
to  flock  to  the  few  hills  or  high  grounds,  where,  by  reason  of 
their  being  half  drowned  and  nearly  starved,  they  become  an 
easy  prey  to  the  native  trappers.  Generally  they  secure  all  the 
tigers  or  wild  animals  after  first  half  drowning  them. 

The  officers  and  crews  of  the  ships  of  the  Amazon  make  a 
business  of  collecting  animals  and  birds  from  the  natives,  which 
they  either  take  directly  to  foreign  ports  or  sold  in  Para  to  col- 
lectors of  animals  and  skins. 

The  establishment  of  "Monkey  Jo,"  a  famous  bird  and  snake 
dealer  of  Para,  was  located  close  by  the  United  States  consulate. 
Jo  and  the  consul  became  good  friends,  as  I  had  sent  him  many 
customers  and  transferred  to  him  numerous  requests  for  monkeys 
and  parrots.  Whenever  Jo  received  a  particularly  interesting 
specimen  of  any  animal  he  would  call  my  attention  to  it.  He 
presented  me  with  some  rare  Indian  idols  or  gods,  but  that  which 
I  prized  most  was  a  necklace  or  string  of  beads  made  by  an  Indian 
girl,  from  young  monkeys'  teeth,  which  I  sent  to  a  lady  friend 
in  the  United  States.  She  wears  it  to  the  envy  of  some  who  have 
pearls  and  diamonds.  He  had  bucketfuls  of  a  beautiful  Brazilian 
gold  .bug. 

Not  only  wild  animals  are  collected.  The  Amazon  boats  are 
frequently  loaded  with  cattle  and  horses  and  sheep  that  are  gath- 
ered at  the  different  fazenda  landings,  to  be  sold  in  the  cities  for 
food. 

On  our  way  up  we  tarried  an  afternoon  taking  on  a  drove  of 
cattle.  These  were  not  driven  into  the  boat  through  fenced 
gangways,  as  with  us,  but  each  poor  brute  was  separately  lassoed, 


296  AN   AMERICAN   CONSUL   IN   AMAZONIA. 

a  rope  thrown  around  the  horns  and  the  steam  winch  set  in 
operation.  The  helpless  writhing  animal  was  jerked  into  the  air 
as  high  as  the  top  of  the  boat.  After  a  moment's  swinging  he 
was  hauled  around  into  proper  position,  and  as  suddenly  dropped 
on  to  the  deck,  the  rope  untied  and  the  steer,  that  probably  had 
fallen  half  stunned  on  the  slippery  deck,  was  goaded  to  its  feet 
and  forced  back  among  the  others  who  had  already  gone  through 
the  terrible  operation. 

As  the  river  was  high,  many  of  the  cattle  had  to  be  driven 
into  an  overflowed  corral,  and,  after  being  lassoed,  they  would 
be  thrown  in  the  water  and  half  drowned  before  the  ropes  could 
be  adjusted  to  lift  them  out.  These  cattle  are  so  poor  and  light 
that  they  are  readily  lifted  in  this  inhuman  way  apparently  with- 
out material  injury. 

The  same  method  applied  to  our  good,  round  cattle  would  pull 
the  horns  or  perhaps  the  entire  head  from  the  body  by  the  weight 
of  the  carcass. 

Horses  are  more  decently  treated,  simply  because  their  necks 
would  not  stand  the  pressure.  They  are  raised  by  passing  a  strong 
canvas  under  them  to  which  ropes  are  attached.  They  go  into 
the  air  kicking  violently  and  receive  more  consideration  from  their 
inhuman  masters  than  horned  cattle. 

On  Amazon  steamers  the  captain  is  also  chief  cook  and 
steward  to  the  extent  that  he  is  the  caterer  for  his  own  table. 
The  steamship  company  sells  the  transportation  only.  The  cap- 
tain of  each  boat  arranges  his  table  and  collects  from  each  passen- 
ger an  additional  fare  for  meals,  which  is  his  own  perquisite. 
By  this  arrangement  the  captain  who  provides  the  best  table  is 
the  most  popular ;  it  frequently  occurring  that  travelers  will  delay 
for  a  week  that  they  may  travel  with  a  certain  favorite. 

As  a  rule,  however,  the  table  fare  is  poor.  The  average 
Portuguese  captain  who  has  been  a  sailor  or  boatman  until  made 
a  commandante  is  seldom  capable  of  managing  a  hotel  table,  and 
when  he  entrusts  it  to  a  steward,  the  chances  are  that  each  sub- 
ordinate makes  a  good  living  out  of  what  he  may  be  able  to  save. 


Regina  dc  Aliranda  e  (Jli\cira.  a  gradegc  o  minoso  cartao 
seja  ao  bom  amigo  um   feliz  arereo  novo. 


e  de- 


O    CONSUL   RELIEVED.  297 

I  was  especially  favored  during  my  trip  thrtnigh  the  good 
offices  of  the  general  manager,  who  had  given  instructions  that  I 
should  be  fed  as  an  American  or  as  well  as  a  sick  man.  Though 
I  was  yet  quite  ill  and  had  but  little  appetite,  the  air  or  change 
even  to  worse  conditions  than  I  had  been  accustomed  to  at  the 
hotel,  was  agreeable  to  me,  and  I  enjoyed  the  peculiar  Amazon 
steamboat  cooking,  but,  like  the  scenery,  it  soon  became  mo- 
notonous. 

j\ly  late  genial  landlord,  on  the  day  I  left  Para,  had  brought 
me  a  case  of  wines  and  a  bottle  of  pure  French  brandy.  I  learned 
to  take  a  little  of  this  brandy  in  each  cup  of  the  good,  strong, 
black,  clear  coffee  that  is  served  only  in  Brazil. 

The  poorest  laborer  in  Brazil  will  have  wine  and  good  coffee, 
drinking  coffee  and  cognac  in   the  mornings  and  claret  at  meals. 

I  attribute  my  being  able  to  withstand  the  fatigues  of  the 
voyage  to  these  stimulants. 

The  captain  butchered  one  of  the  beeves  every  other  day, 
so  that  he  had  plenty  of  fresh  meat,  such  as  it  was ;  but  their 
way  of  preparing  or,  rather,  of  spoiling  a  piece  of  beef  is  one 
of  the  things  an  American  or  an  Englishman  cannot  get  used  to. 

There  is  no  such  a  thing  as  a  beefsteak  in  Portuguese.  They 
cut  the  entire  animal  into  chunks  or  strips,  so  that  a  roast,  boil 
or  steak  are  all  alike  stews,  which  they  cover  with  a  strong  gravy. 
This  suits  the  Brazileiro,  who  mixes  farina  with  everything  he 
eats. 

Though  we  passed  several  important  tributaries  (which  are 
really  large  rivers)  which  I  had  requested  be  pointed  out  to  mc, 
I  failed  to  distinguish  any  difference  in  the  generally  monotonous 
outlines  of  the  surrounding  shores. 

Madeira,  which  is  the  principal  affluent  flowing  from  the 
south  (including  Cis-Andine  Bolivia),  enters  the  Amazon  near  a 
settlement  on  the  north  bank  bearing  the  Indian  name  Itiocuatara, 
meaning,  I  believe,  painted  rock.  It  is  a  picturesque  settlement 
on  one  of  the  few  bluffs  or  high  grounds  of  the  lower  Amazon, 
located  at  a  distance  of  ten  or  twelve  hours'  steaming  from   the 


298  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

Manaos,  corresponding  in  location  to  the  Missouri  in  its  relation 
to  St.  Louis.  I  was  shown  what  they  said  was  the  mouth  of  the 
Madeira,  but  it  was  like  looking  across  a  wide  bay.  Strong  cur- 
rents from  the  Madeira  reach  the  shore  at  Itiocuatara,  which  no 
doubt  has  in  ages  deposited  the  sediment  on  the  rocky  shores, 
thus  forming  the  bluffs. 

Itiocuatara  is  perhaps  the  best  site  for  the  handling  of  the 
extensive  traffic  that  must  eventually  come  down  the  Madeira 
River,  upon  the  completion  of  the  railway  now  being  built  around 
the  rapids.  The  reader  interested  especially  in  this  railroad  and 
location,  the  coming  center  of  traffic  in  the  Amazon  valley,  is  re- 
ferred to  the  excellent  book  by  my  Philadelphia  friend,  Colonel 
Neville  B.  Craig,  entitled  "An  111  Fated  Expedition." 

The  headquarters  of  the  Madeira  and  Mamore  Railway  are 
located  at  this  point. 

At  present  all  traffic  from  the  Madeira  is  compelled  to  go 
out  of  its  way  to  reach  ]\Ianaos,  the  capital  of  the  state  of  Ama- 
zonas,  where  are  located  all  the  customs  and  state  officials. 

On  the  morning  of  the  eighth  day,  we  entered  the  dark  water 
of  Rio  Nigro,  which,  unlike  the  Madeira  and  Tapajos,  flows  from 
the  north,  being  the  high  water  way  to  Venezuela.  In  a  few 
hours  more  we  are  at  anchor  in  the  stream  opposite  Manaos,  one 
thousand  miles  due  westward  from  the  Atlantic. 


CHAPTER    XXIX. 

AMAZONIA — A  FUTURE  EMPIRE. 

MAGINATION — and  not  very  ex- 
uberant imagination  at  that — can  see 
a  world  power  in  Brazil,  in  the  dis- 
tant Aiden. 

Just  as  the  Amazon  is  the  great- 
est river  in  the  world,  its  valleys  will 
some  day  be  the  seat  of  the  greatest 
empire  of  the  world. 

The  Ganges  and  the  Nile  are  of 
the  historic  past ;  the  Danube,  the  Volga  and  the  Mississippi  are 
of  the  present ;  the  Amazon,  the  Orinoco  and  the  Congo  belong 
to  the  future. 

In  all  the  world  there  is  no  valley  so  riotous  in  fertility  as 
that  of  the  Amazon  waters,  but  as  it  exists  at  present  all  mankind 
is  impotent  to  conquer  it  from  nature — from  savage  beasts,  loath- 
some serpents,  venomous  reptiles,  and  poisonous  and  pestiferous 
insects. 

Suitable  population,  aided  by  modern  machinery  and  appli- 
ances, may  in  time  blaze  a  pathway  for  civilization  in  the  forests 
of  that  portion  of  South  America  known  as  Amazonia  (which 
comprises  an  area  greater  in  extent  than  all  of  the  United  States 
of  America  east  of  the  Rocky  Mountains),  known  geographically 
as  the  Amazon  basin,  which  drains  this  immense  area  through  the 
one  thousand  and  ten  known  tributaries  or  affluents  of  the  mighty 


The  Amazon  basin  includes  the  two  large  states  of  Para  and 
Amazonas,  in  Brazil,  extending  from  the  Plate  watershed  of 
Matta  Grosso  in  the  south  to  British  Guiana,  Venezuela  and  Co- 
lombia on  the  north,  reaching  due  westward  to  the  Orient  of  Ecua- 


300  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

dor  and  the  vast  Montana  of  eastern  Peru,  and  covering  nearly 
all  the  immense  territory  of  cisandine  Bolivia. 

The  City  of  Manaos,  which  was  in  my  consular  district,  is 
the  capital  of  the  large  State  of  Amazonas ;  the  most  centrally  lo- 
cated city  in  the  Amazon  valley,  is  beautifully  situated  on  high, 
rolling  ground. 

The  harbor  and  water  front  are  excellent.  Large  ocean 
steamers  regularly  sail  from  the  docks  to  New  York  and  Liver- 
pool. The  river  is  six  miles  wide  and  a  hundred  feet  deep  at  this 
point. 

Extensive  docks,  costing  ten  million  dollars,  with  the  modern 
appliances  for  handling  and  large  railway  storage  warehouses, 
have  recently  been  installed. 

There  are  no  tides  or  reverse  currents  to  disturb  extensive 
harbor  work.  While  some  of  the  business  streets  along  the  water 
front  are  conveniently  low  for  the  transaction  of  the  heavier 
trafific,  they  are  yet  higher  than  the  resident  portion  of  Para. 

The  town  is  built  literally  on  the  gentle  slopes  of  its  seven 
hills. 

It  is  not  a  boom  town,  being  one  of  the  oldest  settlements, 
raised  to  the  dignity  of  a  city  a  hundred  years  ago. 

It  was  well  planned  and  in  late  years  has  been  growing  stead- 
ily, and  approaches  the  population  of  Para,  and  is  rapidly  ad- 
vancing. 

The  main  street  is  a  broad  well-paved  thoroughfare,  rising 
at  a  moderate  grade  from  the  main  landing  pier  over  the  hill,  and 
extending  in  a  straight  line  some  distance  back  to  still  higher 
grounds  in  the  suburbs. 

The  business  houses  in  the  down-town  section  are  larger  and 
architecturally  superior  to  similar  structures  in  Para,  perhaps  be- 
cause of  more  modern  construction.  The  residences  are  of  a 
tasteful  appearance,  generally  of  a  European  character,  and  for 
that  reason  more  gratifying  to  the  eyes  of  an  American  visitor 
than  the  monotonous  Portuguese  architecture  in  Para. 


AMAZONIA— A  FUTURE  EMPIRE.  301 

A  number  of  fine  streets,  running  parallel  with  the  river, 
cross  the  main  thoroughfare  at  right  angles  and  form  the  usual 
city  blocks.  Altogether,  Manaos  is  a  surprise,  being  a  much  more 
agreeable  city  than  visitors  expect  to  find. 

Climatically,  it  is  superior  to  Para.  There  are  no  excessive 
rains  as  at  Para,  that  come  up  from  the  ocean  and  drench  things 
almost  every  evening. 

These  storms  do  not  reach  as  far  inland  as  Manaos,  so  that 
it  is  drier ;  but,  at  the  same  time,  it  is  hotter  at  night,  by  reason 
of  the  air  and  earth  not  being  cooled  by  the  refreshing  rains 
that  prevail  nearer  the  coast. 

They  have  yellow  fever  at  Manaos  occasionally,  but  it  is  gen- 
erally brought  from  other  points,  being  contracted  by  travelers  or 
boatmen  upon  the  numerous  low  and  malarious  rivers  and  low- 
lands. 

The  Rio  Nigro,  on  which  Manaos  is  situated,  is  considered  to 
be  unhealthful  some  distance  above,  where  the  shores  are  low  and 
swampy,  and  where  rubber  is  gathered. 

No  amount  of  inquiry  at  Para  will  develop  anything  to  the 
credit  of  its  rival  city.  Correct  information  about  Manaos  is  not 
to  be  obtained  anywhere  in  Brazil  outside  of  Amazonia. 

Paranese  business  people,  or  the  few  who  control  the  trade 
there,  are  exceedingly  jealous  of  the  rapid  encroachments  of  the 
inland  city  upon  their  monopoly  of  the  trade  of  the  valley. 

As  previously  stated,  but  it  will  bear  repeating — relatively 
Para  is  the  New  Orleans  of  the  Amazon  valley.  Its  location 
makes  it  the  gateway  for  its  extensive  commerce,  and  it  is  sit- 
uated similarly,  geographically,  to  New  Orleans,  being  seventy- 
five  miles  above  the  deltas  of  the  Amazon  and  the  Mississippi  re- 
spectively. Both  are  in  low  ground,  almost  entirely  surrounded 
by  fresh  water  and  populated  largely  by  an  incongruous  mass. 

In  like  manner,  Manaos  will  become  the  St.  Louis  of  the 
Amazon  valley  and  in  time  excel  Para,  as  St.  Louis  has  excelled 
New  Orleans. 


302  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

Like  St.  Louis,  in  the  Mississippi  valley,  which  is  one  thou- 
sand miles  from  the  Gulf  and  relatively  the  same  to  head  of 
navigation  on  the  upper  Mississippi  and  Missouri,  Manaos  is 
equidistant  one  thousand  miles  from  the  head  of  ocean  steamer 
navigation  at  Iquitos,  in  Peru,  and  the  mouth  of  the  Amazon, 
near  Para. 

It  is  thirteen  hundred  miles  due  west  from  Manaos  to  Iqui- 
tos, in  Peru,  which  may  be  compared  to  St.  Paul  in  the  United 
States.  Ocean  steamers  may  go  almost  another  one  thousand 
miles  southwest  beyond  Iquitos  on  the  largest  tributary,  Rio 
Ucayali,  to  the  Tambo,  where  canoes  may  be  had  to  the  actual 
source  of  the  Amazon,  in  the  great  divide  between  Cuzco  and 
Lake  Titicaca.  Another  one  thousand  miles  north  from  Manaos 
the  Rio  Nigro  reaches  in  the  direction  of  the  Orinoco,  which 
may  be  crossed  by  a  canal,  uniting  the  two,  or  by  a  canoe  portage, 
enabling  the  adventurer  to  reach  the  Caribbean  sea. 

Steamers  also  sail  regularly  five  hundred  miles  due  south 
from  Manaos  by  the  Madeira  river,  corresponding  to  our  Mis- 
souri, reaching  the  Madeira  and  Mamore  Railway,  now  being 
constructed  around  the  falls,  and  which  will  open  Bolivia,  the 
richest  of  all  the  South  American  interior. 

The  large  ocean  going  steamers  sail  directly  from  the  wharves 
at  Alanaos  to  any  part  of  the  world,  laden  with  the  products  of  the 
valley  which  the  fleet  of  steamboats  have  collected  and  delivered 
on  the  docks. 

In  like  manner  steamships  may  sail  up  the  Amazon  directly 
to  Manaos  from  any  foreign  port,  and  deliver  cargoes  to  be  dis- 
tributed by  smaller  boats.  By  decree  of  the  late  Emperor  Dom 
Pedro  II,  the  navigation  of  the  Amazon  is  free  to  all  nations. 
Dues  are  collected  on  exports  by  the  state  governments  of  Ama- 
zonas  and  Para,  but  steamers  from  Manaos  or  other  points  of  the 
river  are  not  subject  to  any  charges  or  tutelage  at  Para. 

Steamers  formerly  making  Para  the  end  of  the  voyage  now 
make  Manaos  their  destination. 


AMAZONIA— A    FUTURE    EMPIRE.  303 

Steamers  also  sail  directly  from  New  York  to  Iquitos,  two 
thousand  three  hundred  miles  up  the  Amazon,  making  a  round 
trip  voyage  in  thirty  days. 

A  larger  class  of  steamers  is  proposed  which  will  complete 
the  voyage  from  Manaos  to  New  York  in  ten  days. 

In  this  connection,  I  beg  to  recall  the  discussion,  in  an  early 
chapter  of  this  book,  on  direct  steamship  communication  between 
St.  Louis  and  Manaos  by  a  class  of  boats  and  barges  that  can 
navigate  the  Gulf,  the  Mississippi  and  the  Amazon,  carrying  an 
exchange  of  cargoes  and  passengers  direct  from  southern  ports 
to  Amazonas,  and  towing  barges  of  coal,  kerosene  and  machinery 
from  Pittsburg,  in  the  United  States,   to  points  on  the  Amazon. 

It  is  predicted  that  the  trade  of  this  region  will  excel  that 
of  China  and  the  East — on  which  the  Panama  Canal  depends. 

We  have  at  our  doors  the  Amazon  "canal"  of  fifty  thousand 
miles  of  rich  territory  awaiting  us. 

Foreign  residents  and  some  dissastisfied  Brazileiros  believe 
that  the  Amazon  states,  with  Peru  and  Bolivia,  will  assuredly 
unite  in  forming  an  independent  republic  of  Amazonia. 

They  have  everything  in  their  own  hands  to  insure  success 
and  prosperity.  The  world  must  have  rubber,  cocoa,  sugar,  hides, 
nuts  and  coffee,  which  will  pay  tribute  sufficient  to  carry  on  a 
strong  government.  With  a  blockade  of  the  mouth  of  the  Ama- 
zon they  can  compel  recognition  from  the  nations  of  the  earth 
who  are  dependent  upon  their  natural  products.  A  rubber  famine 
would  affect  disastrously  the  entire  civilized  world. 

Should  Para  endeavor  to  hold  Manaos  in  check  in  the  in- 
terests of  that  port  and  of  the  Rio  government,  which  it  is  now 
claimed  is  being  done,  Manaos  trade  will  find  an  opening  to  the 
world  by  the  outlet  on  the  north  side  of  Marajo  Island,  and 
Para  would  be  shunted. 

In  Para  the  English  largely  predominate  as  the  foreign  ele- 
ment. In  Manaos  it  is  the  energetic  Germans  who  are  quietly 
but  determinedly  planting  themselves. 

There  was  not  a  solitary  American  in  Manaos  on  my  first 
visit.    I  was  the  first  newspaper  friend  who  had  visited  that  land. 


304  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

It  was  my  good  fortune  to  be  met  on  my  arrival  by  Mr. 
James  Baird,  a  Scotch  gentleman  who  has  lived  all  his  life  in 
Amazonia,  and  is  engaged  in  extensive  enterprises.  He  is  not 
only  familiar  with  the  country,  but  is  possessed  of  the  happy 
faculty  of  making  visitors  and  strangers  feel  at  home  in  the  coun- 
try of  his  adoption. 

Mr.  Baird,  as  the  United  States  consular  agent  at  that  point, 
exerted  himself  to  make  my  visit  pleasant  and  profitable.  He  is 
married  to  an  estimable  Brazilian  lady ;  lives  elegantly,  and,  with 
his  accomplished  wife  and  two  most  interesting  little  girls,  en- 
tertained the  Americano  most  hospitably. 

I  could  scarcely  walk  from  weakness.  A  carriage  was 
brought  to  my  door  and,  between  Capt.  Montgomery  and  Mr. 
Baird,  I  was  shown  up  and  down  and  around  the  beautiful  sub- 
urban section.  Mr.  Baird  has  since  died,  leaving  a  wife  and 
daughters,  who  were  educated  in  England. 

On  my  recent  revisit  I  called  on  the  family  in  Manaos,  and 
was  delightfully  entertained  by  the  mother  and  these  two  charm- 
ing young  ladies. 

There  is  an  excellent  system  of  water  and  gas  supply  for 
Manaos,  and  a  telephone  exchange.  The  one  thing  lacking  for 
their  advancement  is  reliable  telegraphic  communication  with  the 
outside  world.  This  is  now  being  arranged  by  a  cable  system  in 
the  waters  of  the  Amazon,  as  well  as  cable  through  the  forests. 
Until  this  is  completed  Manaos  is  dependent  upon  the  market  at 
Para,  where  rubber  prices  are  arranged  by  cable  from  abroad, 
and  everything  depends  on  the  rate  of  exchange.  When  this 
connection  is  made  banks  will  be  opened  and  business  will  boom 
for  Manaos.  Recently  efiforts  have  been  made  to  install  wireless 
telegraphy,  but  it  does  not  give  satisfaction  over  the  forests. 

It  happened  that  I  arrived  just  as  a  fiesta  was  being  inaugu- 
rated, similar  to  the  Nazareth  at  Para.     (See  Chap.  XXI. j 

The  church  is  beautifully  located  on  a  hill  in  the  center  of 
the  town,  around  the  sloping  sides  of  which  were  arranged  the 
numerous  booths. 


A  type  (it  yijung  Brazilian  girl  lieing  (educated  fur  the  proicssion 

of    Pharmacist.      Her    sister   is   studying    for   the    dental 

profession. 


AMAZONIA— A  FUTURE  EMPIRE.  305 

We  were  especially  honored  with  an  invitation  to  witness  the 
inauguration  of  the  new  state  government,  Amazonas,  wherein  I 
was  surprised  to  hear  the  newly  elected  governor  in  his  inaugural 
address  compare  Fonseca  to  Washington,  rather  to  the  detriment 
of  our  George.  The  speaker  declared  that,  while  Washington 
had  but  few  difficulties  to  contend  with,  Fonseca's  greatness  was 
enhanced  by  his  overcoming  extraordinary  obstacles. 

Socially,  the  people  of  Manaos  are  fully  up  to  the  standard 
of  the  Paranese.  In  their  musical  culture  they  probably  excel, 
by  reason  of  the  greater  number  of  educated  Germans  among 
them  who  are  accomplished  musicians,  and  perhaps  they  devote 
more  time  to  practising  the  music  of  the  fatherland  because  of 
their  comparative  isolation. 

At  Para  the  music  is  principally  of  the  Italian  schools. 

We  also  attended  a  "swell  social"  of  Manaos  by  special  in- 
vitation. It  is  named  the  Club  Limatado,  and  is  similar  to  the 
Assemblea  Paranese  previously  mentioned.  On  this  occasion 
there  were  gathered  in  full  evening  dress  the  best  people  of  the 
town,  and,  as  far  as  beauty  and  accomplishment  were  discernible, 
they  were  fully  up  to  my  conception  of  the  standard  of  Para. 

As  usual,  I  found  one  bright  particular  star  among  the  galaxy 
that  shone  that  evening.  By  the  exercise  of  some  diplomacy  I 
was  introduced  to  the  little  beauty  of  the  evening  with  whom  I 
exchanged  cards.  Perhaps  this  little  Senhora  Carvalho  may  see 
her  name  in  an  English  book  some  day,  which  may  incite  sufficient 
interest  in  the  study  of  the  language  to  ascertain  what  is  said 
of  her. 

I  spent  a  week  in  this  agreeable  way.  The  Brazilian  gentle- 
men of  the  local  press  made  it  an  object  to  show  me  every 
courtesy. 

I  thus  pleasantly  waited  for  the  sailing  of  an  Amazon  steamer 
that  would  take  me  the  other  thousand  miles  to  Iquitos  in  Peru 
in  double  the  time  occupied  from  Para  to  Manaos. 

Perhaps  it  was  a  kind  Providence  that  delayed  my  departure. 
Maybe  it  was  the  exercise  that  caused  it;  but  I  took  a  severe 


306  AN   AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

relapse  and  was  quite  sick  with  fever.  Still  1  had  no  other 
thought  but  of  going  west,  on  my  recovery.  I  was  advised  by 
Mr.  Baird  and  Captain  Montgomery  that  it  would  be  hazardous 
for  me  to  undertake  the  journey  alone  in  my  weak  condition, 
as  after  leaving  them,  I  should  be  among  entire  strangers  with 
whom  I  could  scarcely  talk,  and  being  beyond  the  reach  of  medi- 
cal assistance  and  the  conveniences  of  nursing,  I  would  be  in  a 
bad  way  if  taken  sick,  but  I  felt  that  success  lay  upstream. 
IMontgomery  remarked :  "You  have  the  grit,  my  boy ;  but  you 
haven't  the  grip  and  will  have  to  let  go." 

To  make  a  long  story  short  and  to  dispense  with  personal 
explanations,  I  will  have  to  close  abruptly  by  saying  that,  instead 
of  going  up  the  river,  I  was  carried  aboard  an  ocean  steamer  that 
sailed  down  the  river,  the  doctor's  imperative  orders  being  that 
I  must  have  a  change  of  climate  or  die.  A  sea  voyage  was  recom- 
mended, and,  with  a  hope  that  I  should  be  able  to  return,  I 
reluctantly  consented  to  a  postponement  of  the  upper  half  of  the 
river  journey,  and  instead  of  going  west  to  the  Andes,  I  took  the 
doctor's  prescription  and  a  very  bitter  pill,  determined  in  my  own 
mind  to  return  when  in  better  condition  to  undertake  the  explora- 
tion. I  succeeded  in  carrying  out  my  long  cherished  plans  a  year 
later,  the  eventful  experiences  of  which  cannot  be  crowded  into 
these  covers. 

The  story  has  been  told  separately  in  "The  Land  of  Tomor- 
row," the  publication  of  which  preceded  this  account. 


CHAPTER    XXIX. 


DOWN   THE  AMAZON   FROM    MANAOS. 
AN   IMPROVISED   FUNERAL. 

HE  ocean  steamers  descending  the 
Amazon  from  Manaos  to  the  Atlan- 
tic make  the  voyage  of  one  thousand 
miles  in  three  days.  To  secure  the 
advantage  of  the  strong  currents, 
the  downward  steamers  take  the 
middle  of  the  broad  river,  so  that 
the  return  trip  loses  some  of  the  in- 
terest attaching  to  the  journey  up, 
when  the  ships  hug  the  shore,  giv- 
ing the  tired  passenger  some  enter- 
tainment in  attempting  to  penetrate 
with  his  glasses  the  almost  impen- 
etrable forests. 

One  always  meets  a  good  breeze 
going  down,  so  that  the  long,  hot 
days  are  less  oppressive.  We  put  in  the  hours  lounging  in  pajamas 
and  slippers  on  steamer  chairs,  or  swinging  in  hammocks  under 
the  awnings,  only  going  below  when  it  rained  or  when  the  ship's 
crew  washed  the  decks  with  the  hose,  which  is  one  thing  a  ship 
captain  thinks  he  must  do  every  day,  no  matter  if  the  decks  are 
burned  clean  by  a  hot  sun  or  have  been  washed  for  the  previous 
twenty-four  hours  by  a  heavy  sea. 

On  ships  of  the  Booth  line  meals  are  served  on  deck,  when 
in  the  Amazon.  Passengers  will  also  be  very  apt  to  avoid  the 
close  staterooms  below,  and  avail  of  the  privilege  and  convenient 
hooks  placed  to  swing  their  hammocks  above  at  night. 


3o8  AN   AMERICAN   CONSUL   IN   AMAZONIA. 

A  greater  part  of  the  time  is  occupied  in  listening  to  the 
captain  or  passengers  spinning  yarns.  Whether  entertaining  or 
not,  one  must  hear  as  it  is  not  possible  to  take  one's  hat  and 
escape,  with  a  polite  "Boa  noite." 

It  happened  that  a  young  Portuguese  gentleman  and  myself 
were  two  quite  sick  passengers ;  both  of  us  had  to  be  carried 
aboard,  while  a  third,  a  young  Scotch  friend,  Mr.  Baird,  the  United 
States  consular  agent  at  Manaos,  who  had  entirely  lost  his  health, 
was  going  abroad  with  a  hope  of  recovery,  but  was  yet  able  to 
be  about.  This  sick  trio  comprised  the  entire  passenger  list ;  but, 
luckily,  we  had  for  a  captain  one  of  the  heartiest  and,  I  may  say, 
liveliest  of  all  the  commandantes  of  the  Booth  fleet,  whom  I  need 
not  name,  as  he  will  be  recognized  everywhere  by  the  part  he 
took  in  the  events  which  actually  occurred  on  board. 

The  English  ships  to  the  Amazon  are  more  properly  cargo 
boats,  though  all  have  good  accommodations  for  a  few  passengers. 
They  do  not  carry  a  doctor  or  a  purser.  In  fact,  the  captain  is 
supposed  to  be  the  doctor,  being  supplied  with  a  medicine  chest, 
and  a  book  of  directions  as  to  their  use.  If,  however,  a  vessel 
has  a  stormy  passage  at  sea,  the  chest,  which  is  always  on  the 
cabin  floor,  rolls  about,  sometimes  mixing  the  medicines  in  a 
manner  that  will  outdo  the  most  efflcient  prescription  clerk  of  a 
country  drug  store.  The  captain-doctor  does  not  seem  to  think 
it  of  the  least  importance  what  he  administers  to  the  sick  sailor, 
who  comes  aft  with  a  wry  face  for  medicine.  If  poor  Jack  has 
rheumatism  from  exposure,  he  is  likely  to  get  a  purge  or  an 
emetic,  whichever  comes  handy.  He  goes  away  satisfied  at  having 
"taken  something."  A  captain  once  said  to  my  inquiries,  "Oh, 
you  can't  kill  a  sailor  with  medicine.  He  won't  feel  it  if  you  give 
him  a  bucketful." 

The  sick  Portuguese  passenger  on  board  had  brought  along 
with  him  quite  an  assortment  of  his  own  medicines. 

He  could  not  speak  a  word  of  English,  was  quite  weak,  and 
suffered  greatly.  Our  captain  could  not  diagnose  the  disease,  as 
he  spoke  but  little  of  the  sick  man's  language.     However,  the 


DOWN   THE    AMAZON    FROM    MANAOS.  309 

United- States  consular  agent,  who  had  long  been  a  resident,  acted 
as  an  interpreter ;  but  even  this  gentleman  was  unable  to  tell 
exactly  what  the  trouble  was.  At  least,  neither  the  captain  nor 
the  consul  told  me,  though  I  suspected  it  was  yellow  fever. 

I  was  obliged  to  look  on  as  a  helpless  witness  to  the  young 
fellow's  terrible  sufferings.  At  times  he  would  lose  his  mind, 
writhing  in  the  agony  of  paroxysms,  crying  out  for  medicine.  The 
ship's  steward  stood  by  the  captain's  side  holding  bottles,  glasses 
and  spoons,  from  one  or  the  other  of  which  he  would  dose  the 
poor  fellow,  as  he  said,  "just  to  soothe  him."  I  noticed  par- 
ticularly that  one  of  the  bottles  was  of  dark  green  glass  covered 
with  paper,  as  if  to  protect  the  contents  from  the  light.  My  im- 
pression is  that  it  was  the  Portuguese  label  for  an  acid.  What- 
ever it  was  will  never  be  known,  as  it  was  thrown  overboard, 
but  it  seemed  to  be  a  favorite  medicine  of  the  half  delirious  man, 
who  would  shriek  for  it  like  a  crying  child.  They  gave  it  to  him 
straight  and  in  large  doses. 

When  I  ventured  to  observe  that  perhaps  the  doses  ought  to 
be  diluted  with  water,  the  captain,  taking  the  bottle  and  holding 
it  up  to  the  light,  as  if  to  measure  the  remaining  contents,  ob- 
served carelessly,  "Oh,  he's  got  it  nearly  all  now ;"  but  I  said, 
"That  stuff  will  kill  even  a  sailor."  "Well,  he  wants  it  all  the 
time,  and  we  may  as  well  let  him  have  everything  he  wants,  as 
he's  going  to  die  anyhow." 

I  walked  away  from  the  sad  scene — nervously  paced  the 
deck  alone,  myself  weak  from  illness,  wondering  whether  I  should 
fall  a  victim  to  such  treatment,  while  alone  on  the  Amazon, 
thousands  of  miles  from  proper  medical  aid.  The  poor  fellow, 
continually  tossing  about  in  his  hammock,  occasionally  gave  a 
shout  like  a  Comanche  Indian  on  the  war  path,  waking  the  echoes 
in  the  silent  wilderness,  that  sent  the  cold  chills  down   my  back. 

He  had  all  the  attention  that  it  was  possible  to  give  to  a 
sick  passenger,  to  whom  we  could  not  talk.  The  young  English 
steward  was  especially  kind,  and  stood  by  constantly  to  hold  him 
during  his  paroxysms.     I  looked  on  from  my  chair,  noting  every 


310  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN   AMAZONIA. 

quiver  of  his  frame.  He  tossed  in  his  hammock,  his  hands 
swinging  about  in  the  air  wildly,  while  he  talked  in  his  own  lan- 
guage. God  knows  what  the  poor  boy  was  saying.  He  realized 
that  he  must  die,  no  doubt,  and  perhaps  it  was  his  last  words  to 
his  friends  that  fell  upon  strange  but  sympathetic  ears  and  hearts. 

I  realized  then  that,  if  in  my  weak  condition,  I  had  gone  up 
the  river,  perhaps  it  would  have  been  my  own  fate  to  have  so 
suffered  among  his  people,  who  would  not  have  understood  my 
dying  words.  One's  feelings  under  such  circumstances  may  be 
imagined  but  not  described.  I  turned  my  face,  and,  looking  up 
to  the  starry  skies  that  seem  so  close  to  us  in  this  latitude,  I 
uttered  a  silent  prayer  that  God  would  receive  the  departing 
spirit ;  also  of  deep  thankfulness  that  my  steps  had  been  turned 
backward  to  where  I  might  regain  health,  and  be  of  further  use 
in  this  world. 

When  I  looked  back  again,  the  arms  that  had  been  swinging 
about  so  wildly  clutching  at  the  air  were  yet  outstretched  over 
the  hammock,  the  hand  was  tightly  clutched,  but  they  were  still 
now.  The  life,  the  vital  spark,  had  passed  from  the  suffering 
body.   Heaven  is  as  near  to  these  people  on  the  equator  as  with  us. 

Sad  as  the  lonely  death  on  the  Amazon  may  seem,  there  was 
yet  a  humorous  ending.  The  question  of  disposing  of  the  body 
was  one  which  at  once  concerned  our  energetic  captain. 

The  poor  fellow's  eyes  had  scarcely  been  closed  to  the  light 
when  the  captain,  still  standing  near  the  body,  gave  orders  to 
prepare  to  "Drop  him  over  the  stern."  Luckily  his  ears  were 
forever  deaf  to  this  harsh  voice,  and  though  it  made  no  differ- 
ence to  the  spirit  what  became  of  the  abandoned  shell,  it  seemed 
heartless;  yet,  if  properly  analyzed,  it  must  be  admitted  the  cap- 
tain was  right  enough  in  desiring  to  get  off  his  ship  the  dead  body 
of  one  who  may  have  died  of  a  contagious  disease. 

If  yellow  fever  is  contagious  from  a  dead  body,  every  mo- 
ment increased  the  danger  to  the  remaining  passengers  and  crew. 
At  sea,  it  would  have  been  proper  enough,  but  it  appeared  cruel 
to  put  into  the  river  a  body  where  land  was  so  close  and  so  easily 


DOWN    THE    AMAZON    FROM    MANAOS.  311 

accessible ;  but  preparations  were  made  in  the  usual  way  to  sew 
or  tie  the  body  up  in  canvas  in  which  an  iron  grate-bar  is  en- 
closed as  a  sinker. 

The  Portuguese  pilot  on  board,  being  a  Catholic,  protested 
against  this  so  earnestly,  and  was  seconded  by  the  consular  agent, 
both  of  whom  advised  taking  the  body  to  the  nearest  shore.  The 
captain  argued  that  the  banks  were  overflowed ;  which  was  a  fact, 
and  that  it  was  "more  respectable  to  chuck  him  overboard  to  the 
bottom  of  the  river  than  to  plant  him  in  the  swamps  on  shore 
among  alligators  and  wolves."  The  pilot  knew  of  a  little  set- 
tlement within  a  few  hours'  sailing,  in  which  was  a  Catholic 
church  and  a  graveyard,  though  a  little  off  the  ship's  course.  The 
captain  consented  to  allow  the  pilot  to  stop  the  ship  at  this  point. 

"Chips,"  as  the  ship's  carpenter  is  always  called,  was  or- 
dered to  make  a  box.  All  the  crew  gave  willing  assistance,  some 
in  preparing  the  body  and  others  in  assisting  with  the  construction 
of  the  box.  I  do  not  know  now  whether  the  dying  shrieks  of  the 
poor  fellow  or  the  sounds  of  the  saw  and  the  hammering  on  the 
deck,  on  that  moonlight  night  on  the  Amazon,  in  the  making  of 
his  coffin,  produced  the  more  painful  efifect  upon  my  nervous 
system,  but  I  shall  never  forget  it. 

It  became  the  duty  of  the  captain  to  look  into  the  effects  of 
the  deceased.  Upon  opening  his  trunk  they  found  eight  candles, 
which  the  Portuguese  pilot  said  were  intended  for  use  in  just  such 
an  emergency  as  had  occurred,  but  the  old  captain,  being  a  Scotch 
Presbyterian,  objected  to  having  any  illumination  or  torchlight 
procession  on  his  deck.  So  the  candles  were  not  lighted,  but  I 
observed  that,  when  the  captain  was  called  elsewhere,  the  sailors 
placed  a  lantern  at  the  head  and  one  at  the  feet  of  the  corpse. 

The  amusing  part  of  the  painful  incident  appeared  in  the 
superstitious  actions  and  quaint  remarks  of  the  sailors,  who  had 
charge  of  the  preparations  for  the  funeral  services.  They  went 
about  their  several  tasks  in  a  serious  way  that  was  comical,  be- 
cause so  unusual  to  them. 

The  rough,  unplaned  lumber  was  in  the  usual  board  lengths 
of  sixteen  feet,  the  widths  averaging  a  foot.     The  captain  had 


312  AN   AMERICAN   CONSUL  IN   AMAZONIA. 

cautioned  "Chips"  not  to  waste  any  of  his  lumber,  and  to  be  in 
a  hurry  and  "Get  him  boxed  up."  Jack  and  "Chips"  had  a  Httle 
discussion  in  bass  voices,  which  they  attempted  to  reduce  to  a 
whisper  as  to  the  proper  proportions  of  the  box.  Neither  of 
them  would  go  near  the  body  to  measure  it.  Their  quaint  re- 
marks, coupled  with  their  curious  demeanor  and  the  surround- 
ings, must  be  imagined  to  realize  the  absurdity  of  the  situation. 
When  a  rope  is  too  short  a  sailor  will  quickly  splice  it,  and  when 
it  is  too  long  he  coils  up  the  end ;  but  when  he  gets  hold  of  a  board 
that  is  too  long,  he  does  not  know  what  to  do  with  it.  So  they 
cut  the  sixteen  foot  boards  into  two  equal  lengths,  probably  the 
only  thing  occurring  to  them,  as  to  cut  off  three  feet  would  be  a 
waste  of  material.  So  they  made  a  box  eight  feet  long,  and  broad 
enough  to  hold  a  giant.  In  this  the  steward  placed  the  body  of 
the  little  man,  not  five  feet  in  length.  The  captain  observed,  as 
he  looked  sadly  on,  "Well,  you've  taken  a  hell  of  a  lot  of  stuff, 
mind  you  ;  but  if  we  do  not  get  him  ashore,  we  can  fill  it  up  with 
coal  and  that  will  sink  it  overboard." 

The  same  officer  told  me  subsequently  that  he  was  going  to 
keep  the  man's  steamer  chair  as  part  payment  of  that  lumber,  and 
he  did.  I  saw  it  on  board  the  same  steamer,  at  a  Brooklyn,  N.  Y., 
pier,  when  I  later  visited  the  captain. 

About  midnight  the  pilots  ran  the  big  ocean  ship  into  a  little 
affluent  that  to  us  would  seem  like  a  creek,  yet  deep  enough  on 
the  Amazon  to  float  an  ocean  steamer.  The  big  box  containing 
the  little  body  had  been  placed  in  one  of  the  ship's  boats,  so  as 
to  be  out  of  sight  of  the  superstitious  sailors,  as  well  as  convenient 
for  disembarkation. 

The  village  before  which  we  dropped  our  anchor  was  com- 
posed of  probably  a  half  dozen  thatched  huts,  a  store  and  the 
usual  government  shanties,  and  the  everpresent  Portuguese  Cath- 
olic church,  with  square  tower.  Not  a  light  was  visible  until  the 
hoarse  steam  whistle  of  the  ship  vibrated  over  the  still  waters, 
and  no  doubt  startled  the  inhabitants  from  their  sleep,  when  lights 
began  to  flicker  like  fireflies.  The  boat  was  quietly  manned  and 
lowered,  the  Portuguese  pilot  going  ashore  to  talk  for  and  repre- 


DOWN    THE    AMAZON    FROM    MANAOS.  313 

sent  the  captain.  The  first  visit  was  made  to  the  padre  or  priest 
of  the  village,  who  declined  either  to  get  out  of  his  bed  or  to  allow 
the  box  containing  the  body  to  be  placed  in  the  church  until 
morning. 

The  captain  had  given  strict  orders  not  to  bring  it  back  to  the 
ship ;  so  that  the  pilot  and  crew,  rather  than  leave  it  exposed  on 
the  bleak  shore,  were  obliged  to  bury  it  themselves. 

A  graveyard  on  the  Amazon  is  perhaps  one  of  the  most 
gloomily  desolate  features  of  the  entire  region.  Not  all  the  beau- 
tiful foliage  and  flowers  of  tropical  vegetation  can  compensate 
for  the  sense  of  utter  loneliness  that  oppresses  the  visitor  who 
may  unfortunately  have  occasion  to  visit  a  Brazilian  cemetery. 

Generally  the  cemeteries  are  cleared  of  trees,  creating  an 
impression  of  utter  barrenness,  or  a  sore  spot  in  which  only  under- 
brush grows,  and  almost  covers  the  innumerable  wooden  crosses 
that  are  placed  over  graves.  Fortunately,  there  are  but  few 
graveyards  to  be  seen ;  the  natives  generally  living  so  far  from 
settlements  that  they  are  obliged  to  bury  their  dead  in  the  woods 
adjacent  to  their  huts. 

On  this  occasion  the  box  was  carried  to  one  of  these  lonely 
God's  acres,  by  the  stout  sailors,  who  were  in  truth  trembling 
with  superstitious  dread.  They  were  all  anxious  to  get  the  body 
off  the  ship,  but  none  volunteered  for  the  burial  service  in  the 
dead  of  night,  on  the  banks  of  the  Amazon,  the  silent  stars  only 
lighting  their  quivering  footsteps.  As  alertly  as  possible  the  men 
began  to  dig  a  hole,  which  was  necessarily  large  enough  to  cover 
a  horse ;  in  the  haste  and  nervousness  they  had  not  carefully 
selected  a  proper  place;  in  fact,  the  entire  ground  was  probably 
filled  with  bones. 

While  digging  away  silently  and  energetically,  one  of  the 
men  happened  to  throw  up  a  skull,  in  his  shovelful  of  dirt.  As 
soon  as  the  mellow  light  revealed  the  hollow  eyes  and  grinning 
teeth,  all  hands  jumped  out  of  the  half  dug  hole,  and  run  as  hard 
as  they  could  tear  from  the  spot.  It  took  a  good  deal  of  persua- 
sion and  some  grog  to  induce  the  scared  sailors  to  return  to  finish 


314  AN   AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

the  unpleasant  job.  There  were  four  of  them,  but  not  a  word 
was  exchanged.  Each  looked  about  him  in  a  frightened  way  and 
at  the  others,  stepping  gingerly,  as  if  treading  among  snakes.  If 
the  spade  of  one  of  the  grave  diggers  happened  to  strike  a  root, 
down  would  go  the  shovel  (roots  are  plentiful  in  this  soil).  Jack 
jumped  from  the  hole,  only  being  prevented  from  running  off 
by  the  stern  command  of  the  first  officer.  In  fact,  the  work  had 
to  be  abandoned  before  it  was  properly  performed.  The  captain, 
still  on  board  ship,  becoming  impatient  at  the  long  delay  of  the 
party  ashore,  gave  his  whistle  a  fierce  blast,  the  hoarse  tones  of 
which  frightened  them  as  much  as  if  a  devil  with  horns  had 
made  a  charge  on  them  from  the  dark  woods.  They  refused  to 
dig  any  deeper,  and  the  box  was  lowered  into  a  hole  scarcely  deep 
enough  to  cover  it.  I  shall  never  forget  the  blanched  face  of 
the  boatswain,  as  he  sat  in  the  boat  with  both  hands  at  the  oar, 
saying  to  the  too  willing  shipmates,  "Come  on,  lads.  Let's  get 
away  from  here."  And  they  certainly  did  pull  for  the  ship  with 
a  hearty  good  will. 

Our  vessel  took  the  short  cut  between  the  islands  of  the  bay 
of  Marajo  at  the  Amazon's  mouth,  but  on  account  of  the  delay 
caused  by  the  funeral  we  did  not  reach  the  anchorage  in  time 
to  receive  the  official  visit  before  sundown;  so  we  had  to  remain 
aboard  until  Sunday  morning. 

The  exchange  of  salutes  on  anchoring  attracting  my  attention 
toward  the  flags,  I  was  pleasantly  surprised  to  see  on  the  tall  fore- 
mast of  the  noble  ship  the  American  colors  proudly  floating  over 
our  heads. 

Not  quite  understanding  why  the  American  ensign  was  be- 
ing displayed  conspicuously  on  an  English  ship,  turning  to  the 
captain  and  pointing  in  the  direction,  I  inquired,  innocently,  why 
he  was  sailing  under  false  colors?  Replying  in  his  quiet,  cour- 
teous way,  he  said : 

"Oh,  that  is  our  compliment  to  an  American  we  have  on 
board." 

As  there  was  but  the  one  American  passenger,  and  he  a  very 
poor  representative  of  America,  yet  he   felt  in  his  heart  at  that 


DOWN    THE    AMAZON    FROM    MANAOS.  315 

moment,  far  from  his  native  land,  doubly  proud  of  the  fact  that 
he  was  being  recognized  as  an  American  citizen;  and  profoundly 
grateful  to  the  English  officers  for  the  compliment  they  had  shown 
toward  his  country,  through  this  delicate  courtesy  to  an  humble 
citizen. 

Though  only  up  the  Amazon  a  short  time  I  was  cordially 
received  at  my  old  home  in  Para,  as  a  returned  prodigal. 

Sunday  being  the  day  of  my  return,  there  were  but  few  for- 
eign merchants  "in  town,"  In  the  cool  of  the  evening  I  took  the 
opportunity  to  stretch  my  legs  by  a  walk,  sauntering  alone  leisurely 
through  the  familiar,  narrow  streets  toward  the  aristocratic  suburb 
of  Nazareth,  where  everybody  who  pretends  to  be  anybody  wants 
to  have  a  residence,  even  if  it  is  an  unfurnished  room  in  a  mud 
hut  on  a  back  street. 

One  of  the  finest  houses  is  the  home  of  the  "Belle  of  Para," 
or  at  least  the  belle  of  this  story,  whom  I  may  not  name,  but  re- 
spectfully designate  as  "Our  Blessed  Lady  of  Nazareth"  or  as  the 
"Patron  Saint  of  Para,"  also  known  as  "The  Virgene  de  Naza- 
reth," to  whose  goodness  the  people  here  are  indebted  for  many 
of  their  blessings. 

On  this  occasion,  I  did  not  see  "Our  Lady,"  but  at  a  distance 
I  recognized  her  distinguished  padre,  who  is  sometimes  irrever- 
ently called  "Jesus  of  Nazareth,"  who  did  not  fail  to  speak  as  he 
passed  by.  No  disrespect  is  intended  either  to  the  sacred  name 
or  the  feelings  of  any  scriptural  readers,  nor  to  the  gentleman 
himself,  who  bears  an  honorable  title  and  popularly  gets  the  des- 
ignation because  of  his  recognized  superiority  over  the  people. 

The  use  of  the  name  Jesus  is  quite  common  in  these  coun- 
tries. I  have  before  me,  as  I  write,  a  neat  card  which  bears  the 
name  of  "Maria  Nunes  de  Jesus,"  the  proper  name  of  a  pretty 
little  olive  complexioned  senhora  recently  arrived  from  Portugal. 

The  name  Maria  is  the  Portuguese  of  Mary,  which  becomes 
generally  abbreviated  among  the  lower  classes  to  "Morocco,"  so 
that  this  senhorita  is  familiarly  caller  Morocco  Jesus  or  Jesus 
Morocco. 


3i6  AN   AMERICAN   CONSUL   IN   AMAZONIA. 

Friends,  whom  I  surprised  by  my  unexpected  return,  pre- 
tended to  look  upon  me  as  a  ghost.  My  friend  Chermont  gave  a 
BraziHan  hug  as  his  form  of  welcome. 

Among  the  most  pleasantly  remembered  were  these  last  days 
in  Para,  after  I  had  ceased  being  a  consul.  A  farewell  breakfast 
at  my  good  friend's  home  is  a  most  agreeable  memory. 

Perhaps  in  Para  or  Brazil  there  is  not  a  more  cultured  or 
courteous  gentleman  than  my  friend  Chermont  and  certainly  not 
any  lady  more  refined  than  his  accomplished  wife.  There  are 
two  children,  not  of  the  usual  Brazilian  type  of  premature  and 
precocious  young  man  or  young  lady,  but  a  real  boy  of  seven  and 
a  smart  girl  of  ten. 

After  an  hour  of  interchange  of  Brazilian  and  American 
jokes  with  the  genial  host,  we  sat  down  to  a  sumptuous  break- 
fast, which  is  the  meal  of  the  day  in  Brazil.  I  may  not  describe 
this  family  breakfast  party  except  to  say  that  it  was  in  every 
respect  elegant  and  hospitable. 

The  kinship  of  souls  was  only  equaled  by  the  delightful  re- 
past for  the  other  part  of  the  man.  The  breakfast  table  talk  in 
correct  English  would  perhaps  make  interesting  reading  but  must 
be  omitted. 

There  were  two  kinds  of  fish  and  all  sorts  of  meats  and  vege- 
tables of  the  country ;  a  variety  of  such  fruits  as  grow  only  in  the 
tropics,  served  with  the  choice  wine  such  as  only  a  Brazilian  can 
select. 

The  reader  must  imagine  the  delight  of  spending  such  pleas- 
ant hours  around  such  a  social  board  far  from  home,  surrounded 
with  the  fragrance  of  flowers  in  the  tropical  garden  adjoining 
the  house.  Under  the  verandas  were  in  truth  hanging  gardens 
of  rare  and  beautiful  orchids  in  the  perfume  of  which  we  sipped 
delicious  Brazilian  coffee  while  lounging  in  hammocks. 

Subsequently  the  ex-consul  had  the  distinguished  honor  of 
attending  a  grand  "soiree"  of  a  private  and  exclusive  character,  in 
the  nature  of  a  political  and  family  reception  tendered  to  Pedro 
Chermont,  senator,  a  brother  of  my  friend  who  had  just  returned 
from  the  sitting  of  the  Congress  at  Rio  de  Janeiro. 


DOWN    THE    AMAZON    FROM    MANAOS.  317 

This  entertainment  was  in  the  private  residence  situated  in 
the  extensive  estate  of  one  of  the  oldest  and  wealthiest  Brazilian 
families,  Sr.  Jose  da  Silva  Santos.  The  commodious  house  is 
located  in  what  was  at  one  time  the  botanical  gardens,  contain- 
ing all  that  is  rare  and  valuable  in  the  way  of  tropical  growth, 
further  improved  by  Sr.  Santos  and  members  of  his  family,  most 
of  whom  had  been  liberally  educated  in  Europe,  where  they  ac- 
quired elegant  taste,  which  they  were  able  to  indulge. 

The  architecture  is  of  our  southern  style,  with  its  broad 
verandas  and  halls  and  portieres,  annexes  and  bay  windows  spead- 
ing  themselves  like  vines  over  the  garden. 

The  gardens  were  brilliantly  illuminated  by    colored  lights. 

The  best  people,  and  only  the  best,  of  all  Para  were  there, 
a  majority  of  whom  wore  costumes  imported  directly  from  Paris. 
Of  course,  the  blooming  exotic  was  present,  as  were  also  numer- 
ous other  daughters  of  distinguished  Paranese,  all  of  whom  were 
equally  refined  and  accomplished.  Some  of  them  prettier,  per- 
haps ;  certainly  others  were  as  highly  admired  as  was  the  charmer. 

The  daughter  of  the  host,  the  accomplished  wife  of  the  sen- 
ator, who  speaks  English  quite  well,  in  a  most  ladylike  way,  vies 
with  her  sister,  the  younger  daughter-in-law,  Senhora  Monard 
da  Silva  Santos,  in  their  polite  efforts  to  make  the  foreigners  at 
home.  Though  this  pretty  little  lady  could  not  speak  one  word 
of  English,  she  managed  to  be  always  conveniently  near  to  serve 
us,  whether  on  the  saloon  floor,  in  the  crowded  dance  rooms,  or 
promenading  in  the  corridors.  Seated  at  the  banquet  table,  we 
were  delightfully  surprised  to  find  her  hovering  in  the  rear  of  our 
chairs,  prompting  the  servants  in  our  interests.  The  young  wife 
is  indeed  the  charming  little  hostess  of  a  charming  house. 

It  was  a  pleasure  to  have  been  specially  entertained  also  at 
the  country  home  of  Sr.  Jose  C.  da  Coimbra,  one  of  the  enter- 
prising Portuguese  business  men  who  find  leisure  to  pursue  a 
line  of  improvement  for  the  country,  reaching  beyond  the  rush 
for  gain. 


3i8  AN   AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN   AMAZONIA. 

Air.  Coimbra  is  the  owner  of  a  fine  stock  or  stud  farm, 
located  at  Apihu,  about  forty  miles  from  Para,  on  the  line  of  the 
only  railway  in  Amazonia. 

We  spent  two  delightful  days  at  St.  Vincent,  as  this  old  home- 
stead is  known,  which  reminds  one  of  the  plantation  life  of  our 
antebellum  days  in  Louisiana  or  Mississippi. 

Under  the  shade  of  mango  or  palm  trees  of  various  species 
were  groups  of  the  finest  horses  of  Brazil ;  among  them,  a  son 
of  the  celebrated  English  trotter  "Foxhall." 

The  old  fashioned  southern  house  is  snugly  situated  among 
coffee,  bread-fruit,  cocoa  and  cocoanut  trees  (which  are  two  dif- 
ferent thingsj,  as  well  as  every  other  valuable  tree  known  to  this 
latitude.  A  small  river  of  clear,  cold  water  rushes  by,  which  is 
almost  hidden  by  overhanging  branches  of  dense  foliage. 

We  breakfasted  in  the  usual  delightful  way  common  to  Brazil 
at  midday,  but  on  this  occasion,  there  being  no  ladies  in  the  party, 
an  entire  absence  of  formality  in  the  way  of  dress  was  permitted. 

A  congenial  and  jolly  company  of  Brazilians  and  myself,  the 
only  foreigner,  in  shirt  sleeves  sat  around  the  table  spread  on  the 
veranda,  and  enjoyed  a  breakfast  while  the  air  was  deliciously 
perfumed  by  the  cinnamon  and  other  flowering  trees  that  com- 
pletely shaded  the  house  from  the  hot  sun. 

It  was  my  custom,  which  I  gladly  renewed,  to  enjoy  the 
delights  of  a  Sunday  evening  dinner  at  the  home  of  my  early 
friend,  Mr.  Jose  Ayres  Watrin. 

This  friend  considers  it  to  be  a  part  of  his  bounden  duty  to 
compel  me  to  partake  of  the  fruits  of  the  country,  as  he  says, 
in  extenuation  of  my  first  criticism  of  their  watery  oranges, 
tasteless  pineapples,  etc.,  which  I  perhaps  prematurely  judged 
from  the  samples  served  at  the  hotel,  but  which  were  really  not 
to  be  compared  to  the  best  fruits  of  this  section. 

Both  of  us  being  present  later  at  an  elegant  breakfast  with 
the  famous  Baron  de  Gondoriz,  this  subject  of  fruits  was  dis- 
cussed, when  I  was  delighted  to  find  the  jolly  baron  on  my  side 
of  the  question.    He  and  the  baroness  having  traveled  extensively. 


DOWN    THE    AMAZON    FROM    MANAOS.  319 

knew  something  of  our  strawberries,  peaches  and  pears.  He 
laughingly  observed,  "Oh,  yes;  our  fruits  here  are  very  good  for 
making  salads,  if  you  use  plenty  of  salt  and  pepper  and  mustard 
in  their  preparation." 

Some  of  the  best  housekeepers  make  pies  from  bananas,  but 
the  baron  insists  that  bananas  are  intended  only  for  monkeys,  and 
he  has  no  relish  for  monkey  pies. 

About  this  time  there  arrived  at  Para  an  "American  wom- 
an," as  these  people  termed  a  lady  representing  the  Women's 
Christian  Temperance  Union.  She  delivered  a  lecture  in  a  hall, 
which,  though  largely  advertised,  was  attended  by  a  few  rowdy 
foreigners  only  and  some  curious  natives,  who  guyed  the  lecturer 
unmercifully.  On  this  occasion  the  new  consul  and  his  wife  were 
present,  the  lecturer  being  introduced  by  the  missionary  herein- 
before mentioned,  who  acted  as  interpreter,  and  whose  fanatical 
remarks  raised  a  storm  of  indignation  in  which  even  the  lady 
lecturer  joined.  It  resulted  in  closing  the  hall  against  further 
lectures  of  the  sort. 

One  living  in  those  countries  cannot  see  the  propriety  of 
temperance  societies  sending  out  lady  lecturers  who  cannot  speak 
the  language  of  the  country,  especially  where  the  people  do  not 
indulge  intemperately  in  either  drink,  language  or  absurdities, 
like  these  examples. 

No  doubt  these  professional  lecturers  afterwards  go  about 
our  own  country  relating  their  experiences,  expressing  entirely 
erroneous  views  of  what  they  call  heathen  lands. 

These  incidents  are  only  referred  to  as  illustrations.  They 
do  our  refined  and  cultivated  American  ladies  at  home  a  positive 
wrong.  All  the  arguments  that  can  be  brought  to  bear  would  not 
convince  the  Brazilian  people  that  these  loud  specimens  are  not 
representative  American  ladies. 

I  again  explain  that,  in  presenting  these  illustrations  to  the 
public  in  comparison  with  foreign  society  at  this  point,  I  am  only 
prompted  by  the  desire  to  exhibit  some  of  the  absurdities  of  our 
consular  service,  of  which  I  considered  myself  an  example,  along 
with  my  predecessor  and  successor. 


320  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

Yet  after  considering  all  the  disadvantages  detailed  in  this 
personal  narrative,  in  conclusion  I  am  vi^illing  to  concede  that  life 
under  the  equator,  at  Para,  has  many,  very  many  pleasures  that 
fully  compensate  for  the  discomforts,  such  as  may  not  be  found 
in  our  more  favored  lands. 

There  is  a  singular  fascination  in  the  life  of  the  tropics  which 
all  who  have  been  there  long  enough  to  become  acclimated  have 
experienced. 

However  enervating  the  climate,  to  which  cause  is  due  the 
principal  objection  resulting  so  frequently  in  illness,  such  as  I 
was  then  experiencing,  the  fact  remains  that  this  does  not  detract 
from  the  inclination  to  take  part  in  all  the  festivities. 

There  seems  to  be  in  the  very  hot  and  humid  atmosphere 
an  overpowering  influence,  that  like  wine  stimulates  every  one  to 
enter  with  unusual  zest  into  the  enjoyment  of  the  free  and  easy 
excitement  of  social  life. 

There  is  not  only  an  absence  of  restraint,  but  one  soon  learns 
that  the  people  of  that  region,  generally  speaking,  are  not  dis- 
posed to  meddle  with  the  affairs  of  others.  Probably  because 
each  has  as  much  as  he  can  attend  to  in  his  own  separate  en- 
vironment. 

*         *         *         * 

At  the  urgent  solicitation  of  Brazilian  friends  who  were  good 
enough  to  assure  me  that  this  effort  describing  scenes  and  inci- 
dents of  "0  Consul  Americano  Na  Amazonas"  would  be  looked 
for  with  interest,  I  have  attached  an  excerpt  from  the  well 
known  Para  paper,  The  Folha  do  Norte,  which  the  courteous 
editor  requested  me  to  contribute,  detailing  impressions  of  the 
revisit,  which  is  reproduced  herewith  in  the  original  Portuguese. 
Itnpressdes  de  sua  viagem  ao  Pard. 

Por  mais  de  uma  vez  temos  tido  occasiao  de  nos  referir  ao  sr. 
J.  Orton  Kerbey,  que,  ha  algum  tempo,  foi  consul  dos  Estados  Unidos 
no  Para,  e  que  anda  actualmente  numa  excursao  pelo  Brasil,  colhendo 
notas  e  informaQoes  afim  de  publicar  uma  obra  sobre  o  nosso  paiz. 

Pretendia  elle  seguir,  no  desempenho  de  sua  missao,  para  o  sul  da 
Republica,  a  bordo  do  Ceard,  nao  o  tendo  podido  fazer  e  reservandose 
para  tomar  passagem  no  Alagoas,  com  aquelle  destino. 


A  type  of  a  Brazilian   School  Girl. 


DOWN    THE    AMAZON    FROM    MANAOS.  321 

Antes  de  deixar  esta  terra,  o  sr.  Kerbey,  attendendo  a  solicitagoes 
que  Ihe  foram  reitas,  enviou-nos  uma  extensa  carta  em  que  relata  as  suas 
impressoes  colhidas  no  tempo  em  que  aqui  esteve,  as  quaes  representam 
um  ligeiro  extracto  da  correspondencia  que  vae  mandar  para  a  imprensa 
norte-americana,  destinada,  sec  duvida,  a  ser  apreciada  por  um  extra- 
ordinario  numero  de  leitores  intelligentes  do  seu  paiz. 

Eis  o  que  escreveu  para  a  Folha  o  referido  jornalista: 

"Addiei,  pela  segunda  vez,  a  minha  partida  para  o  sul ;  espero, 
porem,  seguir  pelo  paquete  Alagoas. 

Estas  delongas  parecem  confirmar  o  dictado  de  que  me  fago  echo, 
por  experiencia : 

"Quern  vae  ao  Para,  parou. 
Quem   hebe   assahy,   ficou." 

[Who  comes  to  Para  was  glad  to  stay. 
Who   drinks   Assahy   never  goes   away.] 

Sendo  esta  a  minha  quarta  viagem  ao  Para,  parece  que,  com  effeito, 
houve  alguma  virtude  neste  preventivo  assahy. 

Posso,  em  geral,  dizer  que  a  minha  quarta  experiencia  confirmou 
plenamente  as  minhas  anteriores  impressoes  sobre  esta  cidade,  que,  apesar 
de  nao  ser  espaventosa,  caminha  a  passos  firmes  para  o  progresso  e 
importancia. 

Nao  partilho  do  conceito  do  velho  imperador  dom  Pedro  2°,  que 
dizia :  "O  Para  e  uma  cidade  deliciosamente  pervertida",  ao  contrario, 
estou  de  accordo  com  o  famoso  observador  que  assim  se  referia  a  esta 
capital :  "O  tempo  nao  pode  emmurchecel-a,  nem  os  costumes  Ihe 
destruirem  a  infinita  variedade". 

Emquanto  sentimos  agradavel  surpresa  ao  vermos  os  melhoramen- 
tos,  especialmente  no  estylo  agradavel  de  architectura  de  casas  de  morada, 
nos  suburbios  observamos  monumentos  na  forma  de  edificios  de  edu- 
cagao,  taes  como  os  institutos  Lauro  Sodre  e  Gentil  Bittencourt. 

O  viajante  a  cujos  ultimos  olhares,  ao  deixar  a  America,  se  apre- 
sentam  os  feios  e  altos  edificios  de  Nova  York,  a  custo  apreciara  as 
primeiras  vistas  do  Para,  que  exhibe  na  linha  do  firinamento  aquelles 
immensos  tanques  dagua  que,  apesar  de  necessarios.  nao  podem  ser 
estheticamente  admirados. 

Na  viagem  do  vapor  Goyas,  do  Lloyd  Brasileiro,  sob  o  commando 
do  capitao  Misner,  tivemos  o  prazer  de  ter  por  companheiros  7  ou  8 
rapazes  brasileiros,  que  vinham  de  collegios  americanos  passar  as  ferias 
com  suas  familias. 


322  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

Entre  estes  rapazes  se  achavam  Emilio  Miller,  paraense,  que  ha 
alguns  mezes  e  estudante  technico  do  Institute  de  Pratt,  em  Brooklyn, 
e  que  tern  de  voltar  em  setembro  a  Nova-York ;  os  irmaos  Almyro  e 
Humberto  Guimaraes,  da  rua  28  de  setembro,  n.  142  e  o  estudioso  man- 
cebo  H.  Oswaldo  de  Miranda,  da  rua  Conselheiro  Joao  Alfredo,  184-A, 
que  faz  os  seus  estudos  de  medicina  na  celebre  Universidade  de  Penn- 
sylvania. 

Alem  desses  paraenses,  havia  ontros  estudantes  que  regressavam  a 
Pernambuco  e  S.  Paulo,  e  uns  dois  commerciantes,  em  caminho  do  Rio, 
bem  como  outros  passageiros. 

Como  unico  passageiro  americano  a  bordo,  tepho  satisfacgao  de  dar 
este  publico  testimunho : — que  em  longas  viagens,  por  todos  os  mares, 
nunca  encontrei  companheiros  de  viagem  mais  agradaveis  do  que  os  do 
vapor  brazileiro  Goyas,  em  junho. 

Nao  obstante  a  jovialidade  propria  dos  estudantes  de  todos  os 
paizes,  devo  dizer  que  este  grupo  era  excepcional.  Houve  exercicios  de 
agilidade,  exhibigao  de  forqa  e  todos  os  jogos  athleticos,  canto,  saltos  e 
danqa;  mas  nao  houve  durante  a  viagem  de  15  dias  um  unico  exemplo 
de  grosseria,  de  palavras  indecentes  e  nem  sequer  appareceu  a  vista  um 
copo  de  cerveja. 

Os  paes  e  amigos  dos  estudantes  do  Para  devem  orgulhar-se  de 
seus  filhos,  que  tern  a  coragem  moral  de  se  portarem  bem,  quando  soltos 
no  mundo,  com  a  mesma  correcqao  cavalheirosa  que  se  Ihes  ensina  no 
lar  da  familia. 

O  unico  americano  a  bordo  sente-se  feliz  em  reconhecer  o  procedi- 
mento  cortez  dos  mogos  paraenses  tanto  nas  casas  de  suas  familias,  como 
por  toda  a  America. 

Ao  chegarem  a  este  porto,  foram  recebidos  por  suas  familias  e 
amigos.  O  dr.  Miranda  foi  o  primeiro  a  dizer  adeus,  seguido  de  Emilio 
Miller,  que  desembarcou  com  seu  Primo. 

Dentro  em  pouco  approximou-se  um  escaler  trazendo  a  seu  bordo 
duas  senhoritas,  vestidas  de  ciaro,  trazendo  nas  cabegas  grandes  chapeus 
a  "Merry  Widow"  (viuva  jovial),  agitando  os  lengos  para  os  seus 
irmaos  Almyro  e  Humberto  Guimaraes.  O  pae,  que  parecia  satisfeito, 
apreciava  o  encontro  dos  irmaos  e  irma. 

Depois  da  sahida  destes  rapazes  (o  vapor  ainda  ao  largo),  o  ex- 
consul,  encostado  a  amurada,  a  olhar  para  a  cidade,  demorando  o  des- 
embarque,  ate  que  o  vapor  atracasse  ao  trapiche,  foi  surprehendido  pelas 
saudaqoes  cordeaes  do  consul  americano  e  seu  pessoal,  o  qual  tinha  ido 
especialmente  em  escaler  para  dar  as  boas  vindas  a  um  ex-collega,  a 
quem  ate  entao  nao  conhecia. 


DOWN    THE    AMAZON    FROM    MANAOS.  323 

Este  acto  praticado  com  tao  elevada  cortezia  bastante  me  penhorou. 

Em  excursoes  subsequentes  por  algumas  das  velhas  ruas  estreitas  e 
sobre  seus  passeios  ainda  mais  estreitos,  notei  muitos  dos  aspectos  que 
me  eram  familiares  no  Para,  que  eu  conhecia,  salientando-se  os  grandes 
melhoramentos  nas  largas  avenidas,  especialmente  no  Largo  da  Polvora, 
que  provocou  a  minha  admiragao. 

Nos  meus  antigos  tempos  aqui,  o  theatro  da  Paz.  em  via  de  con- 
clusao  extemamente,  parecia  estar  localisado  no  meio  d'um  terreno 
esteril,  que  se  nao  parecia  absolutamente  com  o  bello  parque  actual. 

Inquestionavelmente  a  cidade  vae  melhorando  dia  a  dia;  e,  pela 
natureza  das  coisas,  deve  continuar  a  fazel-o;  pois  que  e  porto  do  mar 
natural  da  grande  bacia  do  Amazonas,  cujos  productos  naturaes  de  suas 
florestas  sao  d'uma  riqueza  incalculavel  e  desconhecida,  tendo  a  bor- 
racha  so  tanto  valor  quanto  o  tinham  as  minas  de  ouro  e  prata  da 
California  e  do  Peru. 

O  prazer  de  encontrar-me  com  velhos  conhecidos  e  amigos  e  as 
perguntas  sobre  outras  eram  frequentemente  ennuviadas  pelas  respostas : 
"Ja  morreu". 

Entre  os  da  colonia  extrangeira,  cujas  saudaqoes  cortezes  tanto  me 
fazem  falta,  estao  os  srs.  Power  do  Banco;  Fred  Bubh,  o  magnanimo 
allemao;  Purcell,  os  capitaes  Hudson  e  Pontet,  o  consul  allemao  Sersel- 
berg  e  senhora;  entre  os  ausentes  ou  que  ja  se  retiraram  do  trabalho, 
estao  incluidos  o  sr.  Kanthack,  consul  inglez,  e  Dom  Carlos  Mouraille, 
de  Iquitos.  Nao  sei  quaes  os  successores  do  sr.  Norton  ou  Parbst  e 
Rickenberg;  mas  estou  contente  por  haver  encontrado  um  hotel  particular, 
delicioso  como  um  lar,  sob  a  habil  e  apurada  direcgao  de  mrs.  R. 

Fazem-me  egualmente  falta  os  passeios  a  cavallo  i  tarde,  em  com- 
panhia  do  Watrin,  e  a  ausencia  do  Luiz  da  Costa,  ambos  meus  compan- 
heiros. 

Registro  com  grande  satisfacgao  o  fraternal  acolhimento  do  men 
veJlho  e  sincero  amigo  brasileiro,  o  coronel  Theodosio  L.  Chermont,  de 
cuja  elegante  hospitalidade  e  uma  delicia  partilhar-se. 

O  consul  americano,  o  Hon.  Georg  Pickering,  insistindo  para  que 
o  consulado  seja  o  quartel,  teve  a  bondade  de  collocar  tudo  a  nossa 
disposicQao  e,  como  o  nosso  grande  amigo  Theodosio,  tudo  tem  feito  para 
tornar  a  minha  visita  agradavel  e  bem  succedida. 

Alem  das  distracgoes  em  casa  dos  velhos  amigos,  fiz  varias  visitas 
as  casas  de  outros  brasileiros,  que  me  deram  muito  prizer. 

Guiado  pelo  companheiro  de  viagem,  dr.  Miranda  e  os  Guimaraes, 
fizemos  uma  viagem  ao  interior,  que  muito  me  deleitou,  sendo  ahi  re- 
cebidos  amavelmente  na  "Quinta  Carmita"  pelo  sr.  Jose  M.  de  Oliveira, 


324  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

sua  esposa  e  suas  encantadoras  filhas  as  senhorilas  Maria  da  Gloria, 
Anna  C,  Leticia  C.  e  Carmita  C.  de  Oliveira. 

Desta  visita  guardo  a  mais  grata  recordagao  do  modo  feliz  de  viver 
n'um  lar  brasileiro,  durante  o  qual  apreciamos  o  trote  diiro  d'um  burro, 
com  jmmenso  gaudio  das  senhoras;  trazendo  comnosco  urn  grande  nu- 
mero  de  "lembrangas  vivas"  d'um  passeio  sobre  a  relva  humida  da  bella 
avenida  ou  alameda  sombreada  dos  amantes.  Parece-me  que  os  rapazes 
deram-lhes  o  nome  de  inucuins,  invisivcis  carrapatos  vermelhos,  contra 
OS  quaes  disseram-me,  o  unico  remedio  era  beber-se  cachaqa  e  friccionar 
as  partes  atacadas  por  elles  com  a  garrafa  vasia. 

Dizem-me  que  os  mucuins  se  encontram  nas  folhas  da  relva  e  com 
facilidade  se  transplantam  para  o  nosso  corpo,  onde,  sem  duvida,  flo- 
rescem  bellamente. 

Nos  parques  americanos  encontram-se.  a  cada  passo,  taboletas  com 
estes  dizeres :  "Nao  andem  sobre  a  relva",  "Nao  toquem  nas  plantas", 
para  evitar  que  se  passeie  ou  mesmo  pize  na  relva. 

A  repetigao  destes  signaes  gerou  a  expressao  corriqueira  que  fre- 
((uentemente  se  emprega  como  cautela  aos  dedicados  amantes  para  "Nao 
■indarem  sobre  a  relva,  nem  tocarem  nas  plantas". 

No  Brasil  estas  taboletas  sao  desnecessarias;  os  mucuins  encarre- 
gam-se  do  policiamento. 

Para  vos  demonstrar  as  minhas  impressoes  a  respeito  do  Para  e  do 
Brasil,  em  comparagao  com  a  America,  consenti-me  citar  as  palavras  do 
vosso  poeta : 

Nosso  ceo  tem  mais  estrellas, 
Nossas  varzeas  teem  mais  flores ; 
Nossos  bosques  teem  mais  vida, 
Nossa  vida  mais  amores. 

[Adapted  'J'ra)islation.] 

Your   sky   has   more   stars. 

Your   fields   have   more   flowers, 

Your  forests   more  life. 

And  your  life  more  love,   than  ours. 

J.    Or^on    Kerbey. 


Captain  l\ei>.  Jr.,  of  IJnyd  l^iraxilirrd  S.  S.  "Aciw"'  iMiini  \  nyage 
Rio  ck"  Jaiu-iro  In   .\\\\    ^'urk. 


CHAPTER    XXXI. 


A    SIDE   TRIP    TO    RIO. 

T  will  be  recalled  that  the  Introductory 
outlined  an  itinerary  including  side  trips 
of  one  thousand  miles  up  the  Amazon  and 
three  thousand  miles  down  the  coast  to 
Rio,  and  return  to  Para.  But  so  much 
time  and  space  have  been  consumed  in  and 
around  Para  that  it  has  become  necessary 
to  omit  some  social,  educational  and  fam- 
ily matters  pertaining  to  Para,  in  order  that  we  may  complete 
the  voyage  as  outlined.  On  the  suggestion  of  a  critical  friend, 
we  may  be  able  to  tell  the  further  story  in  one  of  our  uplifting 
magazines,  with  dates  and  illustrations. 

With  the  consul  and  Brazilian  friends  accompanying  me  to 
the  dock,  I  reluctantly  embarked  in  the  large  Lloyd  Brazilian 
steamer  Alagoas,  renowned  as  the  ship  that  conveyed  the  deposed 
Emperor  Dom  Pedro  from  Rio  into  his  unhappy  exile  in  Portugal 
and  Paris,  during  my  consular  incumbency.  There  were  many 
passengers  aboard.  The  steamers  of  this  line  do  an  extensive 
local  business  along  the  four  thousand  miles  of  the  Amazon 
river  and  down  the  coast  to  Rio.  Through  the  kindly  efiforts  of 
Consul  Pickerell  and  the  courteous  interest  of  the  Para  agent 
I  was  given  a  good  room. 

In  a  few  hours,  while  at  dinner,  we  are  reminded  by  the 
gentle  roll  of  the  ship  that  we  have  again  passed  out  of  the  Ama- 
zon into  the  sea.  After  a  day  of  pleasant  sailing  we  reach  the 
city  and  port  of  Maranhao,  anchoring  for  the  night  in  the  road- 
stead, because  the  pilot  failed  to  get  over  the  bar,  which  is  only 
possible  at  high  tide.  This  delay  gave  the  passengers  a  wel- 
comed opportunity  to  spend  an  evening  with  friends  in  the  town. 
I  tried  to  find  my  old  friend  Ed.  James,  whom  I  met  on  the 
Peruvian  Andes,  but  he  was  at  his  country  place. 


326  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

Like  Belem  do  Para  and  other  Brazilian  cities,  Maranhao 
is  the  name  of  the  state,  though  usually  applied  to  the  principal 
city,  which  has  another  (official)  name. 

From  the  anchorage,  the  city  resembles  all  the  other  Bra- 
zilian coast  towns,  with  their  one  story,  white  walled  houses  and 
an  occasional  Moorish  looking  church. 

The  harbor  was  enlivened  by  numerous  small  boats  bringing 
passengers  or  friends  and  visitors  to  the  ships,  a  custom  of  the 
people  followed  at  all  the  ports.  This  became  such  a  nuisance 
that  the  steamship  companies  were  compelled  to  check  the  habit. 

I  was  advised  that  the  State  of  Maranhao  is  the  Greece  or 
Athens  of  Brazil,  because  of  the  number  of  learned  citizens. 

It  is  said  that  a  majority  of  the  literati,  especially  poets  and 
authors,  date  their  works  from  some  of  the  pretty  mountain 
towns  and  valleys  of  the  State  of  Maranhao,  which  is  said  to  be 
the  most  distinctively  Portuguese  state  in  Brazil. 

After  another  day  and  night's  sailing  along  the  barren  shores 
of  white  sand,  which  in  places  have  drifted  into  large  sandhills, 
we  reach  the  port  of  Ceara  (pronounced  See-a-ra/i),  in  the  State 
of  same  name. 

Though  Ceara  adjoins  Maranhao  and  is  not  far  from  Para, 
where  it  seems  to  rain  incessantly,  it  suffers  the  extreme  of  fam- 
ines, caused  by  extended  droughts.  Ceara  furnishes  the  principal 
number  of  laborers  for  the  rubber  forests  of  the  Amazon. 

Ceara  is  famous  for  its  make  of  the  "Ceara  hammock,"  or 
"rede"  as  well  as  for  extensive  sugar  plantations.  I  was  sur- 
prised to  hear  that,  at  all  the  ports  or  towns,  railroads  reached 
into  the  interiors  from  two  hundred  to  four  hundred  miles. 

After  Ceara  and  Natal  comes  Cabadello  or  Parahiba,  which 
belongs  geographically  to  northern  Brazil. 

The  several  railroad  feeders  of  these  ports  will  eventually 
be  connected,  making  a  continuous  line  of  rail  from  the  Amazon 
to  Rio  de  Janeiro. 

The  most  important  port,  Recife  (reef)  or  Pernambuco,  is 
situated  at  the  extreme  easterly  point  of  Brazil.     The  outer  reefs 


A    SIDE    TRIP    TO    RIO.  327 

have  been  utilized  as  a  sea  wall.  The  town  is  built  on  a  number 
of  small  coral  islands,  and  is  familiarly  known  as  the  Venice  of 
South  America.  Numerous  bridges  connect  the  streets,  on  which 
are  trolley  cars,  electric  lights  and  all  the  conveniences  of  a  first 
class  Brazilian  city. 

The  tall  buildings  facing  the  harbor  were  erected  by  the  first 
Dutch  settlers. 

Pernambuco,  or  Recife,  sometimes  called  "the  beautiful,"  is 
usually  the  first  land  of  Brazil  sighted  from  steamers  from  Europe 
and  the  United  States. 

At  this  point  we  discharge  and  take  on  a  number  of  Per- 
nambuconas,  men,  women  and  children,  forming  excursion 
parties  to  the  opening  of  the  national  exposition  at  Rio. 

It  was  my  good  fortune  to  meet  here  a  Brazilian  gentleman 
and  his  wife,  bound  for  Rio,  who,  in  very  good  English,  kindly 
gave  me  a  great  deal  of  assistance  during  the  following  four  or 
five  days'  journey  to  Rio. 

I  am  glad  of  this  opportunity  to  publicly  acknowledge  my 
appreciation  to  Senhor  Pedro  Rodrigues  Soares,  of  Rua  Duque 
de  Caixas,  Recife. 

In  this  territory  sugar  is  the  staple  article,  while  further 
south  the  cofifee  industry  predominates. 

The  next  important  port  is  Bahia,  or  the  City  of  San  Sal- 
vador, State  of  Bahia. 

Though  only  four  hundred  miles  distant  Salvador  is  the 
antipodes  of  Recife,  having  a  fine,  extensive  and  well  protected 
bay  in  which  the  largest  ships  may  safely  anchor. 

Bahia,  instead  of  being  on  islands,  is  a  city  on  the  hills,  afiford- 
ing  a  most  picturesque  appearance  from  the  deck  of  a  ship,  as 
it  approaches  the  bay.  A  closer  view  of  the  tall  buildings  on  the 
water  front,  with  a  background  of  other  styles,  apparently  built 
on  the  hillside,  reached  by  winding  and  devious  roads,  gives  a 
stranger  an  impression  that  he  would  not  care  to  spend  a  night 
ashore  at  Bahia. 

My  Brazilian  friend  advises  that  ninety  per  cent,  of  the  popu- 
lation are  negroes,  including  officers,  who  practically  control  af- 


328  AN   AMERICAN   CONSUL   IN   AMAZONIA. 

fairs.  Reference  to  a  map  of  the  world  will  show  that  Bahia 
does  not  appear  very  far  distant  from  Africa,  making  it  a  con- 
venient depot  for  the  slave  trade,  which  fact  may  account  for  the 
preponderance  of  people  of  African  ancestry. 

If  apparent  content  and  absence  of  friction  or  social  and  po- 
litical agitation  be  the  criterion,  the  Brazilians  have  made  greater 
advance  toward  solving  the  race  problem  than  we  have.  Invidious 
reference  and  personal  comment  on  the  subject  in  this  narrative 
has  been  avoided  as  far  as  possible,  the  writer  desiring  to  state 
conditions  and  facts  as  he  observed  them,  from  which  the  reader 
may  form  his  own  conclusions. 

During  an  official  residence  as  a  consul,  enjoying  an  entree 
into  the  best  families,  I  have  encountered  highly  accomplished 
ladies  and  gentlemen  of  culture  who  showed  unmistakable  evi- 
dence of  African  ancestry;  but,  in  the  many  years  of  my  asso- 
ciation among  that  hospitable  people,  I  have  never  seen  any  of- 
fensive evidence  of  prejudice  or  class  distinction. 

There  is,  however,  a  decided  caste,  the  line  of  which  is  dis- 
tinctly drawn,  but  it  is  in  no  sense  a  color  line.  Portuguese 
Brazilians  look  upon  this  condition  as  a  matter  of  course,  for 
which  they  are  not  responsible. 

This  subject,  however,  is  never  discussed,  except  by  Ameri- 
can travelers  or  literary  tourists,  who  sail  around  South  America, 
and  who  have  the  unhappy  faculty  of  criticizing  anything  not  of 
United   States  origin. 

They  are  usually  good  talkers,  but  disagreeable  compagnons 
de  voyage,  who  spend  the  days  in  searching  for  defects ;  and  write 
their  observations  for  the  Sunday  papers  or  favorite  magazines, 
and  some  have  even  written  books.  Of  course  they  do  not  always 
get  their  contributions  printed,  probably  because  the  intelligent 
editor  at  home  has  had  a  surfeit  of  South  .\merican  fiction. 

Without  intending  to  criticize  any  efforts  in  this  direction,  I 
beg  to  reproduce  a  few  paragraphs  from  a  recent  popular  book, 
entitled  "The  Other  Americans,"  compiled  from  letters  to  Col- 


A    SIDE    TRIP    TO    RIO.  329 

lier's  and  Scribner's  Magazine  by  one  of  the  finest  of  these 
writers,  who  traveled  around  South  America  in  less  than  eighty 
days. 

"Of  the  various  manifestations  of  atmospheric  laxity  none 
is  more  interesting  to  a  No'rth  American  than  the  haziness  of  the 
color  line. 

"This  land  of  cofifee  and  sunshine  is  tinged  with  African 
blood.  Of  the  seventeen  and  a  half  millions  of  people  in  Brazil, 
only  seven  milions  are  whites. 

"There  were  seven  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  slaves  in  Bra- 
zil when  the  princess  regent  emancipated  them  [May  13,  1888], 
and  there  are  many  neighborhoods  where  the  negro  is  a  problem 
only  so  far  as  life  may  be  a  problem  to  Africans  in  their  native 
jungle." 

All  of  this  is  exaggeration.  There  is  probably  a  larger  pro- 
portion of  negroes  in  some  of  our  Southern  States  than  in  Bahia ; 
but  listen  to  this  opinion  of  the  writer  quoted  above. 

"There  is  so  little  prejudice  against  it  that  the  most  scholarly 
Brazilians  often  maintain  that  the  mixture  has  been  beneficial, 
and  has  resulted  in  a  type  better  suited  to  the  Brazilian  environ- 
ment than  either  of  the  original  stocks. 

"They  flatly  contradict  Agassiz  and  other  northern  biolo- 
gists. 

"About  one-third  of  Rio's  population  are  negroes.  From 
blacks  who  might  have  been  landed  from  a  slave  ship  yesterday, 
the  African  tinge  fades  out  through  every  graduation  of  mixed 
blood  up  to  that  of  the  cultured  whites  of  the  ruling  class.  There 
is,  in  fact,  almost  no  color  line  at  all ;  comparatively  few  families 
into  at  least  some  of  whose  members  has  not  crept  a  shadow  of 
darker  blood." 

Fancy  the  Pan-American  having  this  translated  for  circula- 
tion in  Brazil ! 

To  illustrate  the  difiference  between  our  western  civilization 
and  that  of  Brazil,  I  reproduce  an  excerpt  from  the  editorial 
columns  of  the  Washington  Post  of  April  11,  1909: 


330  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

SHAKESPEARE,  ETHNOLOGIST. 

"For  sheer  perversity,  the  verdict  rendered  on  Saturday,  at 
Muskogee,  Okla.,  woukl  be  hard  to  beat,  and  the  reasoning  which 
induced  twelve  good  men  and  true  to  render  it  caps,  without 
doubt,  the  cHmax  of  absurdity.  One  Louis  Hall,  who  states  him- 
self to  be  of  Portuguese  descent,  sued  the  school  board  officials 
and  the  officers  of  a  literary  society  for  damages  for  excluding 
him  from  a  white  school  and  denying  him  membership  of  the 
society.  In  rebuttal  of  his  charges,  the  defendants'  lawyers  quoted 
'Othello'  to  prove  that  there  is  a  strain  of  African  blood  in  the 
Portuguese  race,  and  the  jury  was  so  impressed  that,  by  its  find- 
ings, it   declared  the  plaintiff  had  no  grounds  for  his  suit." 

As  a  singular  coincidence  the  same  paper,  and  of  the  same 
date,  prints  the  following  Associated  Press  dispatch  of  Professor 
Goode,  teacher  of  geology  at  the  University  of  Chicago,  com- 
menting on  the  chance  of  true  politeness  to  percolate  into  the 
inner  recesses  of  his  fellow  citizens.  He  had  the  convictions 
thoroughly  grounded  into  him,  he  said,  while  he  escorted  the 
Japanese  Commissioners  on  their  recent  tour  of  America. 

"Special  to  The  Washington  Post. 

Chicago,  April  9,  1909. — "If  a  culture  could  be  attached  to 
the  point  of  a  javelin,  you  couldn't  force  it  through  the  pachyder- 
matous hide  of  the  average  American."  (Pachyderm — an  order 
of  mammals  distinguished  for  their  thick  skin,  including  the 
elephant,  hippopotamus,  and  hog — Webster.)" 

The  Japanese,  as  well  as  the  Latin  race,  are  people  of  culture 
and  refinement.  No  better  evidence  of  this  was  shown  than 
their  attitude  toward  those  who  so  grossly  abuse  them. 

They  read  the  Washington  Post  in  Brazil. 

The  usual  tourist  or  traveler  on  the  larger  steamers  of  Eu- 
rope and  North  America,  which  touch  at  important  coast  cities 
only,  seldom  has  more  than  a  glance  at  a  small  section  of  Brazil. 
He  accepts  without  question  the  advice  of  those  foreigners,  who 
have  never  traveled  in  the  interior,  about  the  difficulties  and 
dangers  of  such  travel. 


A    SIDE   TRIP    TO    RIO.  331 

There  is  an  individuality  in  all  cities,  more  striking  in  some 
than  in  others,  yet  there  is  a  marked  similarity  that  one  soon 
tires  of  in  most  foreign  cities.  This  monotony,  however,  seldom 
extends  to  travel  in  Brazil,  which  abounds  in  enchanting  scenery, 
remarkable  plants  and  flowers  and  animals,  and  marvelous  works 
of  nature.  The  city  of  Bahia,  for  instance,  situated  on  the  hill 
side,  and  that  of  its  neighbor  Pernambuco,  which  is  built  upon 
several  islands.  In  the  interiors  of  these  states  are  mountains 
and  extensive  valleys,  large  rivers  and  wonderful  waterfalls,  re- 
sembling the  Yellowstone,  Yosemite  and  Niagara.  One  of  the 
most  interesting  is  the  Paulo  Affonso  falls,  to  reach  which  it  is 
necessary  to  take  a  coastwise  vessel  from  Pernambuco  or  Bahia 
to  Penedo,  about  thirty  miles  up  the  wonderful  San  Francisco 
River,  which,  except  for  a  short  distance  around  the  falls,  is 
navigable  for  over  one  thousand  miles  into  Brazil,  and  is  full 
of  interest  from  mouth  to  source. 

The  next  port  of  interest  is  Victoria,  situated  on  a  winding 
river  leading  behind  high  hills,  anchoring  in  front  of  the  beautiful 
little  town.  On  the  hill  tops  are  convents,  and  on  winding  roads, 
houses  that  resemble  castles  on  the  Rhine. 

There  is  a  railroad  connection  betweeen  Victoria  and  Rio 
Janeiro,  but  most  of  the  travel  is  by  sea,  as  it  affords  a  delightful 
sail  along  the  coast,  shadowed  by  the  immense  hills  leading  down 
to  the  wonderful  bay  of  Rio.  On  entering  the  harbor  of  Rio  the 
forecastle  is  cleared  for  the  benefit  of  passengers,  who  flock 
forward  to  enjoy  the  beauties  of  the  bay.  So  much  has  been 
said  descriptive  of  this  enchanting  bay  that  we  will  have  to  omit 
details,  hurrying  along  to  the  city  of  Rio  Janeiro,  which,  like 
Rome,  is  built  upon  hills  or  rather  mountains,  whose  summits  are 
two  thousand  feet  above  sea  level. 

Rio  Janeiro  means  river  of  January,  but  there  is  no  river 
at  Rio.  It  is  simply  an  immense  bay.  In  this  respect,  and  also 
in  its  picturesque  character,  it  is  unlike  Buenos  Ayres  and  Para, 
which  are  located  at  the  mouths  of  the  Rio  Plate  and  Amazon, 
respectively.     Few  writers  or  visitors  to  Rio  refer   to  the  name 


332  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

of  the  city  as  a  misnomer.  The  disadvantage,  aside  from  its  com- 
mercial features,  arises  from  the  fact  that  there  is  no  current  to 
cleanse  the  harbor,  the  tides  forcing  the  waters  back  to  the  city 
docks.  The  lack  of  natural  drainage  has  probably  been  the  cause 
of  much  of  the  unsanitary  conditions  of  Rio.  Plans  are  being 
considered  for  opening  a  drainage  channel  by  tunneling  the  hills 
to  the  ocean.  My  good  Pernambuco  friend,  Senhor  Pedro  Rodri- 
gues  Soares,  interested  himself  in  pointing  out  various  places  on 
the  shores  or  the  islands,  being  particularly  interested  in  the 
charming  location  for  the  (1908)  exposition  buildings,  situated 
in  one  of  the  numerous  little  valleys  reaching  to  the  waterfront. 
On  anchoring  we  were  immediately  surrounded  by  the  usual  fleet 
of  Portuguese  boatmen  anxious  to  take  passengers  ashore  for  a 
consideration.  As  this  was  a  second  visit  to  Rio,  I  was  prepared 
for  the  confusion,  but  through  the  kindness  of  Senhor  Soares  I 
was  introduced  to  a  prominent  gentleman,  Senhor  M.  Ados  Santos 
Dias,  who  had  come  out  with  a  party  on  his  steam  launch,  which 
I  was  invited  to  join.  On  reaching  the  basin  or  landing  stage  I 
prepared  to  find  the  way  to  the  Hotel  Cintra,  a  small  hostelry 
patronized  by  ship  captains  to  which  I  had  been  indorsed.  Not 
knowing  exactly  the  location,  I  appealed  to  the  owner  of  the 
launch,  who  could  not  speak  a  word  of  English,  but  understood 
my  wants,  and  to  my  surprise  took  me  by  the  arm  and  escorted 
me  several  squares  to  the  Ouvidor,  leaving  his  companion  to  await 
his  leisurely  return.  I  mention  this  incident  to  add  force  to  the 
query,  "Would  the  owners  of  American  yachts  have  done  as 
much  for  a  stranger  arriving  at  their  gates  ?" 

After  being  settled  in  my  hotel  I  looked  up  my  good  friend 
of  the  first  chapter,  Senhor  Rodrigo  Vianna,  with  whom  I  was 
made  to  feel  quite  at  home  during  my  fortnight's  stay  in  Rio. 

It  was  my  pleasure  and  privilege  to  meet  with  a  number  of 
friends,  under  whose  care  we  visited  all  the  points  of  interest, 
including  the  wonderful  botanic  gardens. 

As  this  revisit  was  fully  described  in  press  correspondence, 
one  brief  extract  from  my  home  paper  being  attached  herewith, 
I  need  not  give  further  details. 


A    SIDE   TRIP    TO    RIO.  333 

"Major  J.  Orton  Kerbey,  author  of  'The  Land  of  To-morrow,'  and 
well  known  to  readers  of  The  Tribune,  will  land  in  New  York  within 
a  few  days  on  his  return  from  Brazil,  where  he  had  been  for  several 
months  in  the  interest  of  the  Bureau  of  American  Republics.  Just  before 
sailing  Major  Kerbey  addressed  the  following  interestiiig  letter  to  The 
Tribune : 

"Rio   de  Janeiro,   Brazil,   August  29,    1908. 

"I'd  be  glad  if  The  Tribune  would  say  that  I  am  starting  on  my 
return  by  Lloyd  Braziliero  steamer  Acre,  sailing  on  August  31st  via  Para 
and  the  Barbadoes  to  New  York.  It  will  take  from  twenty-six  to  thirty 
days  to  make  the  voyage,  as  we  will  call  at  the  several  ports  on  the 
Brazilian  coast  en  route  north. 

"Some  idea  of  the  extent  of  the  Brazilian  coast  may  be  gathered 
from  the  fact  that  it  takes  a  good  steamer  sailing  at  her  best  thirteen 
to  fifteen  days  to  go  from  here  to  the  Amazon,  and  there  is  yet  several 
days'  sailing  south  of  Rio  to  cover  the  coast  to  Santos  Rio  Grande  do 
Sul  en  route  to  Montevideo  and  Buenos  Ayres. 

"It  may  interest  the  school  boys  and  girls  to  find  on  their  maps 
Rio  de  Janeiro  and  the  ports  of  Victoria,  Bahia,  Miaceio,  Recife  in  Per- 
nambuco,  Cabadello  in  Parahyba,  Natal,  Ceara,  Maranhao,  Para,  and 
Barbadoes,  or  up  the  Amazon  to  Manaos  and  Iquitos. 

"I  will  have  doubled  this  route  during  this  trip,  affording  me  an 
opportunity  to  go  ashore  at  each  place  to  corroborate  the  data  I  have 
attempted  to  give.  Rio  de  Janeiro  is,  I  think,  the  most  naturally  beau- 
tiful city  on  the  earth.  I  can't  recall  any  place  in  any  land  where  there 
are  such  natural  combinations  for  the  picturesque  as  their  grand  old 
hills,  some  two  thousand  feet  high,  bringing  their  green  foliage  to  the 
very  edge  of  the  blue  sea.  The  hills  surrounding  Rio  are  numerous  and 
all  picturesque,  while  between  them  are  tropical  valleys,  riotous  in  foliage 
and  flowers.  The  streets  and  buildings  are  fine,  with  none  of  the  ugly 
squares  of  skyscrapers,  while  the  residence  section  is  a  paradise  of  neat 
cottages  in  terra  cotta  or  colored  tile,  snugly  nestled  in  the  gardens  on 
either  side.  There  are  no  long,  ugly  rows  or  blocks  of  buildings  and 
the  public  edifices  are  models  of  tasteful  and  artistic  architectural  design. 

"Rio  can  claim  the  distinction  of  having  one  street  that  is  not 
duplicated  in  any  other  city,  the  Rua  Ouvidor.  It  is  a  narrow  thorough- 
fare with  narrower  sidewalks,  on  which  no  vehicles,  not  even  automo- 
biles, are  permitted,  except  at  certain  early  hours  for  the  delivery  of 
goods.  The  street  is  scarcely  ten  feet  wide,  but  includes  in  the  several 
blocks  the  most  important  business  houses  of  Rio.  The  Rua  Ouvidor  is 
always  crowded.  There  are  many  'shops'  for  the  retail  trade,  princi- 
pally jewelry,  fancy  goods,  and  department  stores  in  four-story  buildings. 


334  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

as  well  as  one  or  two  of  the  important  newspapers  and  the  usual  number 
of  restaurants,  where  the  small  cups  of  cafe  are  supplied  to  the  throngs 
of  frequenters.  It  is  said  much  of  the  business  of  Rio  is  transacted  over 
the  small  cups  of  strong  coffee. 

"At  right  angles  to  the  famous  Guvidor  has  been  recently  opened 
the  Grand  Boulevard,  or  'Avenida  Central,'  probably  a  hundred  feet  wide, 
between  sidewalks  that  are  twenty-five  feet  wide.  This  avenida  extends 
directly  across  the  city  from  the  business  landing  in  the  bay  to  the  Beri 
Mar,  the  wonderfully  beautiful  extension  and  promenades  on  the  upper  or 
fashionable  water  front.  On  this  avenida  are  located  the  principal  public 
buildings  and   large  hotels  and  business  establishments. 

"The  Rio  exposition  is  a  very  agreeable  surprise,  both  in  location 
and  equipment.  Though  not  quite  prepared,  the  exhibition  is  very  satis- 
factory so  far  and  promises  to  be  a  local  success.  It  must  be  remembered 
that  Brazil  is  not  advertising  an  international  exhibit  and  has  not  ex- 
tended any  invitations  to  other  nations  to  participate.  It  is  designed  es- 
sentially as  a  local,  or  national,  enterprise,  in  which  it  is  desired  to  ex- 
hibit only  the  products  of  Brazil.  In  this  regard  it  is  a  decided  success, 
the  exhibits  of  natural  and  agricultural  products  and  manufactured  goods 
of  Brazil  being  a  genuine  surprise  in  extent  and  useful  variety  even  to 
their  own  people. 

"Aside  from  the  location  on  the  seashore  at  the  foot  of  the  im- 
mense peaks,  which  of  themselves  are  an  exhibit,  the  fine  buildings,  and 
tasteful  display,  the  exposition  is  especially  beautiful  when  lighted  bril- 
liantly at  night — more  beautiful  and  gorgeous  than  the  pretensions  of 
predecessors  who  make  larger  claims. 

"But  Rio  de  Janeiro  is  of  itself  an  exposition  worth  traveling  weeks 
to  see,  and  it  can  only  be  seen  here.  You  will  be  interested  in  knowing 
that  the  Young  Men's  Christian  Association  is  a  thriving  institution  in 
Rio,  accomplishing  more  real  good  for  the  cause,  both  business  and 
sentimental,  than  the  formal  consulate  and  embassy,  both  of  which  are 
so  full  of  official  dignity  that  they  cannot  bend  to  meet  the  people,  while 
this  association  gets  down  to  the  masses  and  accomplishes  a  lot. 

"A  great  many  are  assisted  to  employment,  some  are  aided  to  get  to 
other  cities,  and  information  and  advice  of  a  reliable  character  is  given 
freely  to  all — to  say  nothing  of  the  educational  classes.  The  work  is 
done  altogether  in  Portuguese  and  is  for  native  young  men  principally, 
though  all  others  are  cheerfully  looked  after.  There  are  six  hundred  and 
sixty-nine  members  in  Rio,  seventy-five  per  cent,  of  whom  are  Brazilians. 
They  own  their  buildings,  valued  at  fifty  thousand  dollars,  and  all  current 
expenses  are  paid  by  local  contributors.  The  education  of  the  young  men 
is  an  important  feature  of  the  work.     There  are  evening  classes  with  one 


A    SIDE   TRIP    TO    RIO.  335 

hundred  and  sixty  members  registered  and  with  an  average  attendance 
of  ninety-five.  There  are  periodical  lectures  and  socials  and  the  religious 
work  of  the  association  is  conducted  much  the  same  as  in  the  United 
States.  Proselytizing  is  unheard  of,  and  the  association  meets  with  no 
opposition  from  the  Catholics.  Myron  A.  Clark,  the  secretary,  will  ap- 
preciate any  American  newspapers,  magazines,  or  books  that  might  be 
sent.  Address,  'Mr.  Clark,  Secretary,  Quetanda,  No.  39,  Rio  de  Janeiro.' 
He  will  also  be  pleased  to  give  any  further  information. 

"J.   O.   Kerbey." 

I  desire  to  record  my  obligations  to  Mr.  Clark  and  his  asso- 
ciates for  many  courtesies.  Also  to  Rev.  K.  C.  Tucker,  Agent 
American  Bible  Society  (same  address),  Bishop  Kinsolving,  Dr. 
Brown  and  many  others. 

The  leading  paper  of  Brazil  is  the  Jornal  do  Comcrcio,  occu- 
pying its  elegant  home  on  the  principal  streets,  Rua  Ouvidor  and 
Avenida  Central.  The  plant  of  the  Jornal  is  the  second  most 
complete  printing  establishment  on  the  two  continents,  that  of 
the  Prensa  of  Buenos  Aires  being  the  first ;  either  of  the  two 
probably  surpassing  any  newspaper  outfit  in  the  United  States  or 
Europe. 

Instead  of  the  usual  American  editorial  disorderly  sanctum, 
with  untidy  reporters'  dens,  there  are  reception  rooms,  grand 
salons,  parlors  and  libraries,  with  papers  on  file  from  all  parts 
of  the  earth,  an  elegant  cafe,  as  well  as  barber  and  bath  accom- 
modations.    It  is  more  like  a  first  class  club. 

The  principal  editor,  to  whom  I  had  the  pleasure  of  present- 
ing personal  letters  of  introduction,  received  me  with  the  usual 
Brazilian  hug,  and  pleasant,  efifusive  courtesy. 

Subsequently  he,  with  the  editors  of  Diario  and  O.  Pais 
and  others,  did  me  the  honor  of  calling  at  my  hotel. 

As  indicating  the  friendly  spirit  and  fraternal  feeling,  I 
produce  herewith  a  notice  from  the  daily  Jornal  do  Comercio, 
August  29,  1908,  in  the  original  Portuguese,  for  the  benefit  of 
my  numerous  Brazilian  friends,  who  may  read  this. 


336  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

Acha-se  nesta  Capital  o  Sr.  ]\Iajor  Joseph  Orton  Kerbey,  escriptor 
e  journalista  norte-americano,  antnr  do  livro  sobre  o  Brasil  The  Land  of 
To-morrozv. 

Chegado  a  csta  Capital  no  dia  13  do  corrente,  procedente  do  Estado 
do  Para,  pelo  vapor  Alagoas,  o  Major  Kerbey  fez  uma  longa  viagem 
pelo  Pacifico,  atravessando  os  Andes  e  descendo  o  rio  Amazonas  ate  o 
Para,  onde  embarcou  para  esta  cidade. 

O  Sr.  Major  Kerbey  acha-se  em  missao  especial  do  Governo  de 
Washington,  em  connexao  com  The  International  Bureau  of  American 
Republics,  com  o  intuito  de  estudar  e  relatar  o  estado  do  cpmmercio, 
industria  e  actual  progresso  do  Brasil,  segundo  as  impressoes  que  colher 
na  visita  a  Exposigao  Nacional. 

Consul  no  Estado  do  Para,  nomeado  pelo  entao  Ministro  Blaine, 
exerceu  esse  cargo  durante  dous  annos,  tendo  feito  um  estudo  e  esta- 
tisticas  da  producgao  da  borracha  nos  Estados  do  Para  e  Amazonas.  os 
quaes  visitou  quatro  vezes. 

E'  journalista  ha  quarenta  annos  e  servio  na  guerra  civil,  tendo-a 
historiado  em  um  livro  sob  o  titulo  The  Boy  Spy,  muito  conhecido  e 
apreciado  em  sua  patria. 

Amigo  dos  Brasileiros,  como  bem  demonstrou  no  seu  livro  The 
Land  of  To-morrozv.  o  Major  Kerbey  aceitou  a  grata  incumbencia  de 
dar  a  conhecer  aos  Americanos  as  bellezas  naturaes  v.  as  riquezas  do 
Brasil,  procurando  despertar  o  interesse  emprehendedor  dos  seus  con- 
cidadaos. 

O  Sr.  Kerbey  se  demorara  nesta  Capital  por  espago  de  um  mez, 
indo  depois  a  S.  Paulo,  de  onde  regressara  ao  Para. 

During  my  short  stay  iti  Rio  the  hohclay  festivities  prehminary 
to  the  opening  ceremonies  and  the  later  dedication  of  the  several 
state  buildings  at  the  exposition  took  place.  A  glance  at  a  map 
will  show  a  considerable  population  near  Rio,  in  the  several  coast 
cities  of  the  north  and  interior,  as  well  as  Sao  Paulo,  Santos, 
Rio  Grand  do  Sul  and  other  large  towns. 

Steamers  brought  excursion  parties  from  these  ports  and 
the  River  Plate  and  even  from  Europe,  without  mishap  or  dis- 
turbance. 

On  account  of  the  congestion  on  all  steamers  when  I  was 
ready  to  return  north,  T  found  it  impossible  to  obtain  accommo- 
dation.    In  this  dilemma   I  was   fortunate  in  meeting  with  Dr. 


A   RL-nihrant.    reluctantly   granted.    Ijv    a    cultured    young   lad\-    of 
Para,   who  is  doing  missionary  work  as  a  School   Marm. 


A   SIDE   TRIP   TO   RIO.  337 

Hargrave,  the  manager  of  the  Brazileiro  in  Rio.  He  is  a  gentle- 
man both  competent  and  courteous,  fluent  in  several  languages, 
and  very  kindly  obtained  the  cabin  de  luxe,  the  best  room  on  the 
new  steamer  Acre,  then  about  to  sail  for  New  York.  Dr.  Har- 
grave also  introduced  me  to  Captain  Reis,  the  handsome  young 
officer,  who  has  a  fine  reputation  for  skill  and  popularity  in  the 
handling  of  the  vessel  and  passenger  traffic  of  five  thousand  miles 
of  coasting. 

With  regrets  at  leaving  we  sailed  out  of  the  harbor  one 
summer  evening,  in  a  brilliant  illumination  from  the  thousands 
of  electric  lights  on  the  exposition  building  grounds,  which,  with 
the  city  lights,  were  reflected  in  the  water,  thus  doubling  the  fine 
effect. 

As  we  smoothly  glide  up  the  coast,  calling  again  at  the  ports 
we  visited  before,  we  take  easy  chairs  on  the  shady  side,  or  lounge 
in  the  pretty  cabin,  dreaming  of  and  recalling  the  pleasant  hours 
and  recording  some  of  the  impressions  and  observations  of  the 
visit.  It  should  be  remembered  that  this  correspondence  is  dated  in 
August,  which  is  the  winter  of  this  latitude,  south  of  the  equator. 
It  is  with  regret  that  the  time  was  limited  to  the  Brazilian  coast 
at  Rio,  which  prevented  visiting  cities  of  Sao  Paulo,  Montevideo 
and  Buenos  Aires,  all  of  which  I  had  seen  previously. 

Buenos  Aires  is  the  largest  city  in  South  America,  and  by 
some  considered  the  most  beautiful,  but  it  is  not  so  historically 
interesting  as  Rio.  Buenos  Aires  is  modern,  resembling  in  some 
respects  our  own  Chicago,  being  situated  on  the  edge  of  an  im- 
mense pampas  or  prairie,  upon  which  millions  of  cattle  and 
sheep  are  raised,  and  near  high  lands  upon  which  are  grown 
immense  crops  of  wheat.  The  products  of  this  vast  pampas  make 
Buenos  Aires  a  great  shipping  port  for  beef,  mutton,  hides  and 
flour,  which  are  sent  almost  daily  in  refrigerator  steamers,  to  feed 
Europe  and  perhaps  Africa. 

As  illustrating  the  sentiment  of  the  people  of  Buenos  Aires, 
I  quote  from  an  afternoon  paper  printed  during  the  visit  of  Mr. 
Elihu  Root,  then  our  Secretary  of  State: 


338  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

''Mr.  Root,  an  intelligent  observer  of  political  and  social 
phenomena,  will  not  search  for  the  basis  of  his  judgment  in  the 
honors,  exaggerated  or  not,  which  our  government  bestows  upon 
him. 

"A  politician  as  eminent  and  as  keen  as  he  knows  very  well 
that  these  international  alliances  are  formed  solely  under  the 
pressure  of  the  needs  of  commerce,  and  by  the  stimulus  of  selfish 
interest.  If  he  will  consult  our  statistics,  he  will  perceive  that  it 
is  with  the  European  nations  that  we  maintain  an  interchange 
of  products,  the  United  States  being  our  strong  rival.  Our 
cereals  and  our  beef,  our  hides  and  wool,  have  no  place  in  the 
United  States — a  country  which  produces  and  exports  these  same 
articles.  Let  us  receive  most  kindly,  then,  our  illustrious  traveler. 
But  if  we  resist  certain  tendencies  of  the  Pan-American  agitation, 
let  him  understand  that  we  do  so  inspired  only  by  the  purest 
patriotism  and  the  highest  interest  in  our  country.  Our  states- 
men no  longer  can  shut  up  in  a  box,  so  to  speak,  the  collective 
thought  .  .  .  and  interest  of  the  native.  .  .  .  Modern 
means  of  communication  often  give  greater  efficiency  to  an  ex- 
perienced and  practical  commercial  agent  than  to  a  polished  am- 
bassador." 

Rio  and  Brazil,  on  the  other  side,  produce  those  standard 
articles  the  world  requires  and  which  may  not  be  had  elsewhere, 
such  as  coffee,  cocoa,  mate,  rubber  and  the  natural  products  of 
tropical  forests. 

I  take  the  liberty  of  quoting  my  Brazilian  friend  and  author, 
Senhor  Oakenfull: 

"A  casual  visitor  to  Rio  Janeiro  or  Sao  Paulo  has  no  con- 
ception of  the  native  character.  If  he  is  a  lion,  he  is  hurried  on 
a  round  of  excursions  and  banquets,  and  presentations  to  this  or 
that  notability.  Probably  he  is  met  on  the  steamer  and  personally 
conducted  as  it  were  from  one  object  of  interest  to  another,  until 
the  all  too  brief  period  has  come  to  an  end,  and  he  flits  off  to 
Buenos  Aires  and  elsewhere,  to  go  through  the  same  perfor- 
mance.    During  an  experience  of  many  years  I  cannot  remember 


A    SIDE    TRIP    TO    RIO.  339 

any  really  important  or  observant  guest  of  the  nation  who  had 
sufficient  time  to  see  more  than  that  which  he  especially  desired 
to  see.  Within  the  last  two  or  three  years  there  has  been  a  pro- 
cession of  celebrities  across  the  stage.  Their  parts  have  all  been 
rehearsed  for  them  as  desired,  and  they  have  returned  home  to 
sing  the  praises  of  the  glorious  and  great  republic.  Now  I  state 
it  as  an  indictment  that  it  is  many  years  since  an  English  or 
American  savant  has  spent  some  time  in  Brazil.  In  spite  of  the 
glowing  pictures,  the  country  is  a  real  terra  incognita. 

"There  is  no  other  land  under  the  sun  (and  I  say  this  with- 
out fear  of  contradiction)  that  offers  so  many  opportunities  to 
the  trader,  miner,  naturalist  or  simple  tourist.  The  mountain 
lands  of  Minas,  Goyaz,  Matto-Grosso,  etc.,  are  real  health  resorts 
where  one  meets  with  no  extremes  of  climate,  encounters  no 
demonstrations  or   inspiring  and  awe-destroying  forces. 

"By  way  of  reply  to  the  intimations  of  a  preponderance  of 
African  ancestry  mentioned  in  the  book,  'The  Other  Americans,' 
I  add  that  there  are  many  particulars  in  which  Brazil  offers  a 
contrast  to  her  neighbors,  and  racial  differences  are  not  the  least 
modifying  ones.  It  must  also  be  remembered  that  Brazil  had  an 
aristocracy  and  that  its  influence  is  still  to  be  traced  today. 

"It  may  possibly  be  news  to  many  that  the  monarchial  ele- 
ment still  exists  and  has  its  organ  in  the  press.  I  venture  also 
to  affirm  that  several  of  the  most  highly  placed  and  trusted  Bra- 
zilians of  today  are  still  imperialists  to  the  backbone,  but  never- 
theless good  citizens. 

"One  finds,  outside  official  life,  the  surviving  aristocrats,  as 
a  rule,  quiet,  dignified  and  often  striking  looking  men  of  a  phil- 
osophic turn  of  mind.  They,  like  some  of  the  members  of  the 
old  French  school,  speak  of  the  decadence  of  the  country,  of  the 
absence  of  character  among  the  younger  generation  of  more 
pushing,  business  like  Brazilians.  There  is,  of  course,  some  truth 
in  this,  but  it  must  be  borne  in  mind  that  the  republic  was,  as  it 
were,  thrust  on  the  people.  Like  the  emancipation  of  the  slaves, 
a  necessary  but  badly  executed  measure,  the  empire's  downfall 


340  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

was  premature.  Although  the  farseeing  Dom  Pedro  himself  fore- 
told its  coming,  and  expressed  his  convictions  that  it  could  not 
be  deferred ;  it  would  be  quite  untrue  to  say  that  even  now  it  is 
one  and  indivisible. 

"Those  who  are  prone  to  attack  certain  petty  vices  of  the 
Brazilian  of  today,  whether  European  born  or  otherwise,  must 
again  cast  their  eyes  in  the  direction  of  the  first  American  repub- 
lic. There  are  no  inherent  faults  in  the  Brazilian  that  one  does 
not  find  intensified  in  the  north.  Youth  cannot  possess  the  calm 
reflection  and  staid  custom  of  the  mature.  Their  defects  are  those 
of  their  (|ualities,  and  if  the  republic  succeeds  in  uniting  all  its 
diversified  parts  into  one  homogeneous  whole,  these  defects  will 
disappear.  A  great  deal  of  my  belief  in  the  future  of  this  great 
nation  lies  in  the  earnest  efforts  now  being  made  to  properly 
educate  the  people.  Where  else,  for  example,  could  one  find  the 
children  of  the  secretary  of  state  sitting  side  by  side  with  the  peas- 
ants' .sons  on  the  bench  of  a  public  elementary  school  ?  The  in- 
tellects of  the  people  are  keen,  they  have  good  material  to  work 
on.  They  are  almost  without  exception  musical.  Without  the 
slightest  attempt  at  flattery,  I  assert  that  this  people  are  destined 
to  fill  the  same  place  in  South  America  as  the  United  States  in 
the  north.  Taking  the  disadvantages  under  which  they  work  in 
Brazil  into  consideration,  and  the  newness  of  everything,  wonders 
have  been  done.  Politics  play  a  not  inconsiderable  part  in  the 
development  of  a  nation,  and,  like  all  other  South  American  coun- 
tries, Brazil  suiTers  from  the  all  too  frequent  change  in  the  gov- 
ernment. 

"The  spoils  to  the  victor  is  a  fundamental  law,  without  a 
doubt,  and  it  is  a  melancholy  fact  that  the  passion  for  office  is 
nowhere  necessarily  accompanied  by  capacity  for  administration." 

Though  the  Acre  was  crowded  with  passengers  returning 
from  the  exposition  to  coast  towns,  there  was  no  discomfort,  and 
all  aboard  seemed  to  enjoy  the  voyage.  There  was  an  American 
electrical  engineer,  with  wife  and  baby,  and  a  Portuguese  nurse 
returning  to  New  York  for  a  visit ;  and  in  the  steerage,  or  work- 
ing their  passage,  were  three  American  mechanics  who  had  left 


A    SIDE   TRIP    TO    RIO.  34i 

good  positions  at  home  to  try  their  fortune  in  the  new  land  and 
had  failed.  As  heretofore  stated,  my  observation,  strengthened 
by  a  considerable  experience  with  stranded  Americans,  is  that 
it  is  unwise  for  any  skilled  mechanic  or  laborer  to  give  up  even 
an  inferior  position  at  home  expecting  to  improve  his  condition 
anywhere  in  South  or  Central  America. 

A  working  acquaintance  with  the  language  is  a  first  require- 
ment, and  a  written  contract  duly  certified  by  the  consul  of  the 
country  is  advisable. 

As  a  rule,  young  men  from  England  and  Germany  almost 
invariably  go  out  under  a  three  year  contract,  with  a  saving 
clause  for  a  six  months'  vacation  with  pay. 

At  Para  there  are  always  a  few  Americans  of  the  genus 
hobo  or  salt  water  tramp  sort,  who  appeal  to  their  countrymen 
or  the  consuls. 

At  the  present  writing  the  list  of  "undesirable  citizens"  in 
Brazil  is  greatly  augmented  by  the  construction  of  the  Mamore 
and  Madeiro  Railway.  A  full  account  of  the  hardships  and  fa- 
talities incident  to  the  unhealthful  climate  of  that  region  where 
the  railway  is  being  constructed  have  been  graphically  given  in 
"Recollections  of  an  Ill-fated  Expedition,"  by  Neville  B.  Craig, 
of  Philadelphia. 

On  our  passenger  list  was  a  family  of  several  adults  and 
children,  who  had  been  to  the  exposition  and  were  returning  to 
Para. 

One  of  the  accomplished  ladies  was  the  beautiful  Senhorita 
Leclesia  Gurjao,  a  member  of  one  of  the  distinguished  families 
in  honor  of  whom  one  of  the  monuments  in  Para  was  erected. 

This  lady  sang  sweetly  and  played  charmingly,  accompanied 
on  the  piano  by  a  lady  cousin.  So  popular  was  the  music  that 
passengers  crowded  the  little  saloon  at  every  concert.  Even  the 
sailors  and  steerage  passengers  collected  at  the  windows,  enabling 
them  to  share  the  enjoyment  with  others. 

A  love  story,  both  interesting  and  amusing  as  well  as  sad 
in  its  denouement,  was  enacted  on  the  part  of  the  sweet  singers 


342  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

and  a  young  Portuguese  naval  apprentice  from  i'ernanibuco,  the 
ultimate  climax  of  which  may  be  told  in  a  later  account. 

In  due  time  the  Acre  arrived  at  the  Para  dock,  where  some 
sad  adieus  were  spoken,  as  well  as  cordial,  jolly  greetings  from 
the  consul  and  the  quartets  of  college  boys  who  had  been  fellow 
passengers  out  from  New  York  on  the  Goyaz  and  were  now  re- 
turning to  resume  their  studies  in  the  United  States. 

In  the  usual  crowd  that  throngs  a  Brazilian  ship  entering 
port  are  usually  a  number  of  senhoritas  come  to  welcome  friends. 
In  this  instance  the  young  men  and  old  boys  were  favored  by  the 
gracious  presence  of  a  bevy  of  ladies,  escorted  by  obliging  papas 
or  brothers,  including  Senhorita  Gloria,  whose  Rembrandt  photo- 
graph is  shown  herewith. 

At  this  point  the  narrative  divides,  the  Acre  and  boys  con- 
tinuing to  New  York,  while  the  "consul"  completes  the  old  story 
by  following  the  original  route  home  via  Europe,  and  which  is 
reproduced,  that  the  reader  may  have  the  advantage  of  traveling 
in  imagination  over  both  routes,  each  leading  to  the  same  ultimate 
destination — home. 


CHAPTER    XXXII. 

TRANS-ANUEAN    RAILWAY. 

T  has  been  reserved  for  this  chapter  close 
to  the  end  of  the  narrative,  to  give  the 
story  of  the  International  Railway,  which 
created  a  commotion,  and  was  the  imme- 
diate cause  of  the  relief  I  had  repeatedly 
solicited. 

I  offer  this  prelude  to  explain  that 
personally  I  am  in  favor  of  the  proposed 
railroad  connection  of  North  and  South  America,  and  hastily 
submitted  this  criticism  of  the  methods  of  the  few  persons  who 
were  agitating  the  matter  for  their  own  personal  interests. 

I  beg  to  add  that  as  an  old  employee  of  the  great  Pennsyl- 
vania Railroad,  in  the  same  office  with  Mr.  Andrew  Carnegie, 
as  a  telegrapher,  I  had  imbibed  some  knowledge  of  railroading, 
and  felt  competent  to  criticize  the  methods  of  promoters  who  had 
neither  knowledge  of  the  location  nor  experience  in  practical  rail- 
road construction  or  operation. 

I  had  enjoyed  the  advantage  of  both  of  these  conditions, 
having  been  trained  by  Mr.  Carnegie  as  master,  and  later  had  the 
privilege  of  extensive  travel  over  the  proposed  route,  which  is 
wholly  beyond  the  Amazon  basin. 

To  bring  the  matter  up  to  date,  I  will  add  that  since  this 
original  matter  was  published  I  have  made  another  exploitation 
across  equatorial  America,  having  crossed  the  Andes  five  times, 
at  different  places. 

Closer  observation  leads  to  the  belief  that  the  proposed  rail- 
way is  possible,  but  not  practicable. 

As  previously  indicated  in  my  correspondence,  electric  rail- 
roads may  be  operated  on  grades  and  under  conditions  that  render 


344  AN   AMERICAN   CONSUL   IN   AMAZONIA. 

steam  impossible,  because  of  the  lack  of  coal  or  fuel  in  the  routes, 
and  the  great  expense  of  bringing  it  from  other  lands,  but  power 
sufficient  to  overcome  all  obstacles  is  being  continually  deposited 
along  the  proposed  route,  in  the  banks  of  snow  on  the  peaks  of 
the  Andes,  which,  melting  gradually,  form  rushing  torrents  of 
water  over  the  cascades  and  rapids  of  the  canons  of  the  Andes 
all  along  the  route. 

There  is  not  only  power  wasting  daily  sufficient  to  operate 
the  railway,  but  wireless  telegraphy  also,  together  with  all  the 
machinery  of  a  nation. 

The  writer  claims  the  credit  of  having  first  suggested  the 
application  of  "wireless"  telegraphy  from  peak  to  peak  of  the 
Andes  as  being  suited  to  the  vast  interior  of  South  America,  in- 
habited by  savages,  or  half-civilized  natives  and  wild  beasts,  all 
of  which  would  in  their  ignorance  frustrate  any  attempt  to  main- 
tain isolated  land  lines.  Besides  this,  the  severe  storms  and  snows 
of  the  altitudes  would  render  telegraphy  by  wire  inoperative  and 
unreliable. 

The  writer,  as  a  signal  officer  in  the  civil  war,  as  well  as  a 
military  telegrapher  familiar  with  methods  of  communication  in 
the  army,  was  impressed  (while  riding  over  the  Andes  on  mules, 
viewing  the  wonderful  vistas  from  peak  to  peak,  or  across  exten- 
sive plains  and  valleys)  by  possibilities  of  regular  signaling  sta- 
tions, using  the  "wig-wag"  of  flags  by  day  and  by  torches  by  night. 

The  flag  and  torch  signal  system  uses  the  Morse  international 
telegraph  and  wireless  alphabet,  sometimes  called  the  "one-two" 
code,  the  principle  of  which  is  capable  of  unlimited  combination, 
the  alphabet  being  formed  by  the  two  simple  elements  of  a  dot 
and  a  dash,  a  motion  or  dip  of  the  flag  or  a  torch  to  the  left  rep- 
resenting the  dot,  while  the  swing  of  the  flag  or  torch  to  the  right 
represents  the  dash — the  two  quick  motions  forming  a  dot  and 
a  dash  making  the  letter  "A,"  thus : 

Morse  system 

Signal  system  •!• 


Aa^ctT^    Ji^e    ,^i^   ^/^-    Oirrr^     c^  au>/j:^ 


TRANS -ANDEAN  RAILWAY.  345 

The  upper  signal  being  expressed  by  a  swing  of  the  flag 
or  torch  to  the  left  and  the  lower  one  by  a  succeeding  swing  to 
the  right,  thus  forming  the  equivalent  of  the  Morse  dot  and  dash 
signal,  representing  the  letter   (A). 

This  signal  system,  first  used  in  our  civil  war,  has  since  been 
adopted  by  all  nations. 

The  Morse  code  is  used  by  the  South  American  telegraphs, 
and  is  the  principle  of  cable  telegraph  signals,  and  is  almost  uni- 
versal in  its  application.  The  United  States  Army  Signal  Corps 
are  equipped  with  visual  signal  apparatus,  supplementary  to  the 
wireless  field  outfit. 

It  is  possible  to  signal  rapidly  by  the  use  of  a  prearranged 
code  or  cipher  combination,  conveying  sentences  and  phrases  over 
the  heads  of  an  enemy  or  other  obstacles  for  a  distance  of  twenty 
miles  or  more,  by  use  of  telescopes  or  field  glasses,  and  at  night 
by  exploding  alternately  red  and  white  rockets,  using  the  "one- 
two"  code. 

The  same  principle  may  also  be  utilized  by  long  or  short 
blasts  of  a  bugle  or  whistle,  the  same  as  sound  reading  of  the 
ordinary  telegraph. 

Among  the  reports  sent  to  the  department  was  one  giving 
the  history  and  status  of  the  abandoned  Madeiro  Mamore  Rail- 
road, which  resulted  so  disastrously  .to  the  American  contractors. 

I  procured  reliable  information  from  official  sources,  not  only 
on  this  railway,  but  also  on  all  others  in  operation  and  projected 
in  the  Amazonian  valley. 

I  am  indebted  to  my  friend  Chermont  for  valuable  data  and 
assistance.  His  brother,  then  governor  of  the  state,  and  others  of 
that  influential  circle,  including  the  officers  in  charge  of  railways 
and  telegraphs  in  Amazonia,  also  aided  me  materially. 

I  felt,  therefore,  quite  proud  of  my  exhaustive  railway  re- 
port, having  given  the  subject  such  close  attention.  I  came  of  a 
railway  family  in  the  United  States,  having  been  educated  in 
that  business  in  the  office  of  Thomas  A.  Scott,  vice-president  and 
Andrew  Carnegie,  superintendent  of  the  greatest  of    all   trans- 


346  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL    IX    AMAZOXIA. 

portaliDii  companies,  the  Pennsylvania  Railroad,  and  I  believed 
that  1  was  competent  to  intelligently  inspect  and  report  upon 
railways  and  telegraphs  in  Brazil. 

This  report,  like  many  others  of  a  similar  character,  was 
first  submitted  to  the  inspection  of  the  chief  of  the  annex  bureau 
in  the  department  and,  although  in  every  sense  trustworthy  and 
useful  to  the  American  people  who  were  interested  in  knowing 
the  facts,  it  was  not  of  a  character  to  further  the  interests  of 
certain  persons. 

It  was  about  this  time  that  Washington  press  dispatches  were 
being  spread  broadcast  over  the  land,  for  the  purpose  of  manu- 
facturing public  sentiment  in  favor  of  the  great  Trans-Andean 
Railway,  which  was  ultimately  to  extend  from  New  York  to  Pata- 
gonia in  one  unbroken  line,  across  the  isthmus  and  over  the  Andes. 

Congress  was  asked  to  appropriate  money  for  the  survey, 
which  was  done  subsequently,  thereby  providing  soft  places  for 
the  friends  of  the  measure.  Naval  and  army  ofificers  were  detailed 
for  this  service  in  connection  with  a  number  of  civilian  com- 
missioners. 

I  knew  that,  so  far  as  Amazonia  was  concerned,  the  scheme 
was  wholly  impracticable  and  visionary.  Statements  were  being 
widely  printed  in  my  country  in  favor  of  organizing  a  company 
to  make  investments  in  my  consular  district,  that  I,  as  the  United 
States  consul,  supposed  to  be  looking  after  the  interests  of  all 
America,  knew  to  be  misleading. 

Aly  reports  were  "edited"  and  condensed  and  altered  in  the 
annex  beyond  recognition,  and  though  dated  October  20th,  they 
did  not  appear  until  the  following  January.  In  the  meantime 
numerous  circulars  continued  to  be  sent  out  by  the  annex  bureau, 
compiled  from  other  data  that  suited  them  better.  With  a  desire 
to  make  public  the  entire  facts  which  the  annex  has  suppressed. 
I  prepared  an  article  that  was  published  in  Washington  while 
Congress  was  still  in  session,  and  also  in  New  York,  Chicago  and 
Pittsburg,  about  January  15,  1890,  three  months  later  than  my 
official  report  on  the  same  subject. 


TRANS -ANDEAN  RAILWAY.  347 

The  official  railway  organ  of  the  country  also  published  it, 
with  a  very  good  illustration  taken  from  my  own  photograph, 
showing  an  actual  scene  representing  a  section  of  a  Brazilian 
railway  over  which  trains  so  seldom  ran  that  the  line  had  become 
almost  overgrown  with  foliage.  It  looked  quite  like  a  tunnel 
through  a  forest. 

This  picture  was  accompanied  by  the  statement,  jocularly 
made,  that  one  objection  to  railway  building  in  Amazonia  was 
that  the  rapid  and  dense  growth  of  the  forests  would  quickly  cover 
the  tracks  after  each  train  passed,  necessitating  a  clearing  each 
day. 

As  the  article  was  quite  favorably  received  and  copied,  and 
variously  commented  upon,  and  was  the  immediate  agitation  re- 
sulting in  my  long  sought  for  relief,  I  reproduce  it  here,  with  a 
copy  of  the  department's  vigorous  comment: 

"RAILROADING    IN    BRAZIL. 

"Brazil  is  a  wonder  land,  especially  the  part  of  it  called  Ama- 
zonia. There  are  a  thousand  times  more  marvels  in  it  than  Cap- 
tain Mayne  Reid  has  told.  But  marvels  do  not  make  good  ballast 
for  railroad  track,  except  on  paper. 

"Much  of  the  Tan  American'  literature  that  is  being  palmed 
ofif  on  the  trading  public  of  the  Three  Americas,  when  Brazil, 
for  example,  is  the  topic,  reads  very  much  like  a  Jules  \'erne 
story  by  one  who  is  on  the  spot;  and  a  weird  suspicion  forces 
itself  upon  the  reader  that  the  'pan'  attachment  is  principally  for 
'scooping'  purposes. 

"The  great  'Pan  x\merican  Railway'  is  a  beautifully  taking 
conception.  The  American  eagle  shivers  in  every  pin  feather, 
and  his  teeth  chatter  with  delight  at  the  mere  suggestion. 

"  'Trans- Andean,'  too,  not  trans-across,  but  trans-lengthwise, 
from  peak  to  peak,  and  from  crag  to  crag,  in  the  aerial  path  of 
the  condor.  What  would  not  the  Fourth  of  July  bird  give  for 
such  railroading,  in  a  Pullman  sleeping  car,  and  an  early  morning 
handshake  with  the  biggest  bird  that  flies,  right  on  the  wing,  and 
hard  by  his  snowy  equatorial  roost? 


348  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

"But,  however  glorious  this  may  be  for  the  great  American 
eagle,  when  the  average  American  citizen  proposes  to  send  his 
own  private  'ten  dollar  eagles'  a-railroading,  especially  a  pan- 
railroading,  he  wants  to  know  how  it  is  going  to  pan  out  and  where 
the  'pan'  is  going  to  dump  after  the  'scoop'  is  made,  and  where 
the  eagle  is  going  to  light  when  he  comes  down. 

"Not  long  since  my  attention  was  called  to  certain  articles 
published  in  the  United  States  on  this  subject,  whose  author  has 
the  reputation  of  knowing  pretty  near  all  that  is  worth  knowing 
about  Brazil,  and  which  treated  especially  of  the  most  necessary 
and  most  promising  of  Brazilian  railway  schemes,  as  he  thinks. 

"The  road  which  he  suggests,  or  some  of  them,  would  be 
situated  so  that  they  might  be  utilized  as  part  of  the  great  Pan- 
American  Railway,  if  that  is  ever  constructed. 

"  'If?'  some  reader  may  exclaim.  'Why,  of  course,  it  will  be 
constructed.'  " 

"A  continuous  line  of  railway  may  some  time  in  the  far  dis- 
tant future  be  in  operation  from  New  York  to  Buenos  Ayres; 
but  it  will  never  be  used  for  carrying  through  freight  between 
these  two  points.  As  long  as  half  an  ounce  of  coal  can  be  made 
to  move  a  ton  of  cargo  a  mile  on  the  open  ocean,  no  born  Yankee 
is  going  to  send  his  freight  by  rail  to  the  Amazon  valley,  or  to 
Rio,  or  to  Buenos  Ayres. 

"The  Pan-American  Railway  will  never  be  for  Pan-Ameri- 
can trade.  An  ocean  steamer  can  beat  a  freight  train  by  50  per 
cent.,  as  to  speed,  and  by  a  greater  difference  in  cheapness  of 
carrying.  Consequently,  it  is  nonsense — excuse  me — it  is  poetry 
this  Pan-American  Railway  dream. 

"It  might  become  quite  interesting  for  the  American  tourist 
in  a  parlor  car  to  be  whirled  through  a  series  of  different  revo- 
lutions as  they  passed  through  the  various  countries.  The  trains 
might  make  as  much  time  as  tramp  steamers,  provided  we  did  not 
introduce  railway  strikes  and  riots  with  our  reciprocity  and  rail- 
way management. 


TRANS -ANDEAN   RAILWAY.  349 

"Amazonia  has  tifty  tliousand  miles  of  available  river  navi- 
gation; and  by  the  construction  of  six  or  seven  hundred  miles  of 
railroad  to  get  around  the  rapids  of  the  Madeira,  Tapajos  and 
Tocantins  Rivers,  several  thousand  miles  more  would  be  added 
to  Amazonian  navigation. 

"With  fifty  thousand  miles  of  waterw^ay,  every  man  can  have 
a  steamboat  at  his  front  door,  as  often  as  he  needs  it,  the  year 
round. 

"There  is  only  one  steam  railway  in  the  Amazon  valley,  the 
Braganca  Railway,  running  out  forty  miles  from  Para,  on  which 
trains  of  two  cars  run  regularly  on  Tuesdays  and  Saturdays. 
This  road  has  never  paid  half  of  its  running  expenses.  The  de- 
ficit is  paid  by  the  state. 

"The  trouble  is  that  there  is  no  population  back  from  the 
rivers  and  the  coast  to  support  a  railway,  except  in  a  small  part 
of  southern  Brazil.  In  nearly  all  the  rear  of  this  republic,  back 
from  the  river  margins,  there  are  forest-covered  mountains. 
What  lies  back  of  these  mountains  is  still  as  unexplored  as  the 
interior  of  Africa,  and  perhaps  more  profitable  to  us,  and  as 
interesting  as  Stanley's  'Equatorial  Africa.' 

"When  the  high  lands  of  the  interior  are  peopled,  they  will 
need  railroads  to  give  them  communication  with  the  watercourses, 
which  will  always  be  the  grand  trunk  lines  of  communication  of 
Amazonia. 

"Except  on  extensive  plains  where  nature  has  already  done 
the  necessary  grading,  the  rule  of  railroad  building  is  to  follow 
the  watercourses.  When  a  range  of  mountains  or  hills  is  to  be 
crossed,  the  road  follows  a  valley  up  to  the  summit,  and  descends 
the  other  slope  by  another  valley.  To  follow  the  course  of  the 
range  of  mountains,  tunneling  the  spurs  and  bridging  the  moun- 
tain valleys,  is  to  multiply  by  one  thousand  the  cost  of  building. 

"But  that  is  just  what  is  done  in  much  of  the  present  rail- 
road building  on  paper. 

"The  watershed  between  the  Amazon  basin  and  that  of  the 
River  Plate  is  a   mountainous  region,  and  its  flanks  are  cut  on 


350  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

either  side  by  the  valleys  tributary  to  the  Amazon  and  Plate  Riv- 
ers, respectively. 

"Still  the  New  York  pan-railway  dreamer  proposes  to  shove 
a  railway,  more  than  a  thousand  miles  lengthwise,  through  moun- 
tains from  Ouro  Presto,  the  capital  of  Minas  Geraes,  westward 
to  Goyas  and  Cuyaba,  cutting  at  right  angles  every  valley  and 
hill  he  meets,  through  a  nearly  uninhabited  region  for  most  of  the 
distance. 

"The  two  objects  proposed  are  to  reach  the  possible  mineral 
wealth  of  the  region  to  be  traversed,  and  more  especially  to  give 
to  Rio  direct  communication  with  Cisandine-Bolivia,  which  is 
locked  in  by  the  rapids  of  the  River  Madeira. 

"It  is  perfectly  safe  to  predict  that  no  railroad  will  be  built 
along  that  route  very  soon.  The  natural  outlet  of  that  part  of 
Bolivia,  which  is  two  weeks  nearer  to  Europe  and  the  United 
States  than  the  one  proposed,  is  down  the  Mamore  and  Madeira 
Rivers  to  the  Amazon.  A  short  railroad  past  the  rapids  is  the 
solution  of  the  problem  for   Bolivia. 

"The  same  writer  has  another  railroad  'castled  in  the  air,'  to 
run  from  Manaos,  on  the  Amazon,  across  and  along  the  Orinoco 
to  Paramaribo  on  the  coast  of  Dutch  Guiana.  The  distance  is 
an  insignificant  one  thousand  miles.  Nothing  would  have  to  be 
paid  for  'right  of  way,'  for  there  is  no  one  living  on  the  route, 
and  no  one  has  ever  been  over  the  ground,  so  that  it  is  impossible 
to  prove  that  the  plan  is  not  feasible.  There  is  a  range  of  moun- 
tains to  cross ;  but  he  has  the  general  direction  of  watercourses 
in  his  favor.  He  is  crossing  the  mountains,  and  not  riding  them 
astraddle  as  in  his  southern  plan. 

"But  the  great  puzzle  is  to  know  what  use  the  railroad  could 
be  put  to  after  it  were  built.  He  thinks  that  it  would  give  to 
Manaos  {|uicker  communication  with  New  York;  but  that  is  an 
enormous  mistake. 

"New  York  steamers  sail  direct  to  Manaos,  a  thousand  miles 
up  the  Amazon,  the  year  around.  They  can  make  the  distance 
from  Manaos  to  Paramaribo,  via  Para,  in  five  days,  and  be  there 


TRANS -ANDEAN   RAILWAY.  351 

as  soon  as  his  overland  freight  train,  with  much  less  than  half 
the  expense,  and  with  no  reshipment  of  cargo,  the  cargo  going 
unbroken  by  steamer  from  Manaos  to  New  York  in  ten  days. 

"The  whole  scheme  seems  like  a  desperate  attempt  to  dis- 
pense with  the  Amazon  River,  by  carrying  the  Amazonian  prod- 
ucts from  one  to  two  thousand  miles  overland,  either  to  Rio  de 
Janeiro  or  to  Dutch  Guiana  before  shipping  them. 

"But  the  Amazon  will  not  be  dispensed  with.  It  has  not  only 
the  right  of  way,  but  will  hold  it  exclusively.  No  railroads  need 
apply.  They  cannot  be  built  down  the  valley  proper,  for  the  river 
rises  thirty  feet  or  more  annually,  and  overflows  its  plains,  changes 
its  channel,  tears  out  its  islands,  builds  others  and  plays  the  mis- 
chief generally.  At  low  water,  this  year,  a  steamer  may  find  fif- 
teen fathoms  of  water,  where  last  year  there  was  a  forest  with 
trees  sixty  feet  in  height. 

"Over  the  bluffs  that  flank  the  flood  plains,  a  railroad  would 
have  to  tunnel  and  bridge  without  end ;  and  on  crossing  the  tribu- 
taries of  the  Amazon  there  would  have  to  be  Firth  of  Forth 
bridges,  built  on  mud,  miles  in  length,  fifty  feet  above  low  water 
mark ;  for  those  tributaries  annually  rise  from  thirty  to  forty  feet, 
and  overflow  their  flood  plains  for  miles  in  width. 

"The  Amazon  will  never  allow  an  east  and  west  railroad  as 
its  rival,  nor  allow  itself  to  be  bridged  after  it  leaves  its  cradle 
in  the  Andes. 

"There  are  railroads  to  be  built  in  Brazil,  however,  as  already 
indicated,  to  pass  around  the  rapids  of  the  Rivers  Tocantins, 
Tapajos  and  Madeira.  These  three  short  railroads  will  add  im- 
mensely to  the  material  wealth  and  resources  of  Brazil  and 
Bolivia ;  for  the  territory  to  be  thus  opened  is  inhabitable  and 
very   rich  in  its  soil,  forests,  pastures  and  mines. 

"The  Madeira  and  Mamore  Railway,  for  passing  the  rapids 
of  the  Madeira  River,  was  a  most  disastrous  enterprise.  For- 
tunately for  Brazil,  she  was  not  to  blame  for  the  failure.  P.  & 
T.  Collins,  of  Philadelphia,  were  the  contractors  for  building  the 
road.     English  bondholders  laid  an  injunction  on  the  funds   and 


352  AN   AMERICAN   CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

the  work  stopped.  Five  miles  of  finished  track,  several  sliip  loads 
of  rails,  locomotives  and  other  appurtenances  still  lie  in  the  forest 
at  Santo  Antonio,  on  the  Madeira  River,  where  they  were  aban- 
doned years  ago. 

"The  Brazilian  government  sent  a  commission  of  civil  en- 
gineers to  survey  the  route.  After  returning  to  Rio,  there  were 
charges  of  "sham  survey,"  etc.  The  commission  quarreled,  the 
survey  was  pigeonholed  and  is  still  there,  where  it  was  put  seven 
years  ago. 

"The  Alcobaca  Railway,  on  the  river  Tocantins,  has  fared 
better.  Present  prospects  are  dubious,  although  the  federal  gov- 
ernment is  promising  that  it  will  soon  be  built. 

"It  was  to  have  been  built  by  the  Para  Transportation  and 
Trading  Company,  an  organization  chartered  by  the  State  of  Wis- 
consin, and  said  to  have  a  nominal  capital  of  ten  million  dollars. 

"This  company  obtained  the  first  choice  of  large  tracts  of 
land  at  a  nominal  price,  exclusive  privileges  for  the  road  for 
ninety  years,  and  other  advantages  that  in  all  probability  would 
have  made  its  stockholders  immensely  rich,  if  its  plans  had  been 
carried  out. 

"The  grant  was  obtained  in  a  marvelously  easy  manner,  to 
all  appearances.  But  just  as  the  company  was  about  ready  to 
begin  actual  operations,  the  government  of  the  state  of  Para 
suddenly  and  mysteriously  voted  repudiation  of  part  of  the  priv- 
ileges granted. 

"The  bad  faith  implied  in  this  partial  repudiation  caused  the 
company  to  abandon  everything  and  let  the  grant  lapse  by  neglect." 

If  the  history  of  the  Para  Transportation  and  Trading  Com- 
l)any  could  be  written  in  full,  both  on  the  side  of  the  company  and 
on  that  of  the  Brazilian  government,  it  would,  in  all  probability, 
serve  as  a  valuable  guide  for  future  railroad  contractors  in  Brazil, 
as  to  what  ought  not  to  be  done  by  either  business  men  or  govern- 
ments under  any  circumstances.  Colossal  bad  faith  is  the  mighti- 
est obstacle  that  hinders  Brazilian  railroad  building. 


TRANS -ANDEAN  RAILWAY.  353 

One  afternoon,  while  lounging  in  my  hammock,  dreaming  of 
home  and  wondering  why  the  government  did  not  pay  any  atten- 
tion to  my  repeated  requests  for  relief,  the  Portuguese  telegraph 
operator  handed  me  a  cable  dispatch  which  had  crossed  the  At- 
lantic to  England,  thence  to  the  continent,  and  to  Lisbon  and 
Madeira  Islands,  again  across  to  Pernambuco,  Brazil,  and  finally 
a  thousand  miles  of  coast  cable  to  Para.  It  read  as  follows,  as 
shown  by  the  original  in  my  scrapbook : 

"Kerbey,  Consul : 

"You  were  forbidden  to  write  for  the  press ;  further  dis- 
regard of  instructions  not  tolerated. 

"Wharton." 

This  aroused  me  so  that  I  had  to  order  a  Para  cocktail  from 
Monsieur  George,  and,  really,  one  has  to  experience  a  Brazilian 
cocktail — it  cannot  be  described. 

I  grieved  to  say  that  I  laughed  heartily,  as  if  I  had  received 
good  news. 

I  remembered  that  the  above  railway  letter  was  due  in  Wash- 
ington about  this  time.  I  subsequently  ascertained  that  the  rail- 
way lobbyists  promptly  called  attention  of  the  department  to  its 
publication,  particular  emphasis  being  laid  on  the  last  sentence, 
which  as  a  reflection  on  the  Brazilian  government  I  should  not 
have  made,  as  consul. 

It  was  all  true  enough.  The  mistake  was  in  putting  my  name 
to  it. 

The  railway  journal  editor,  thinking  to  compliment  me,  had 
not  only  illustrated  my  article,  but  attached  a  facsimile  of  my 
signature  to  it. 

I  saw  that  the  proper  way  to  facilitate  my  departure,  which 
was  the  thing  I  had  been  hoping  for,  was  to  continue  the  press 
correspondence,  and  the  following  mails  took  out  fuller  reports 
and  a  letter  on  leprosy  in  high  places  and  on  Brazilian  politics, 
which  I  believed  would  have  the  desired  effect. 


354  AN   AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

The  records  of  the  department  will  show  that  my  first  report 
was  a  request  for  relief,  and  also  that  every  mail  afterwards 
carried  a  similar  notification  that  I  desired  to  go  up  the  Amazon, 
yet  I  was  kept  there  against  my  wishes,  refusing  to  desert  my 
post,  hoping  that  every  steamer  would  bring  me  relief. 

This  was  well  enough  known  by  everybody  at  Para,  as  I 
had  openly  declared  my  purpose,  but  the  department  at  Washing- 
ton had  taken  no  notice  of  my  requests,  at  least  they  did  not  do 
me  the  courtesy  of  notifying  me. 

I  could  have  no  particular  objection  to  the  return  of  my 
predecessor  as  a  successor,  except  to  the  way  and  manner  in 
w'hich  it  was  proposed  to  be  done,  the  avowed  purpose  being  to 
seek  "vindication"  by  making  an  appearance  of  having  forced  me 
out.     This  was  the  game  of  the  lobbyists  and  the  ring. 

I  was  not  consulted  at  all,  though  I  was  advised  fully  of  the 
program  and  knew  of  every  move  they  made  on  the  board  in 
this  game  of  chess.  I  checkmated  them,  playing  alone  against  the 
field,  and  somewhat  blindfolded.  A  petition  was  sent  to  Wash- 
ington, signed  by  many  persons,  asking  for  the  reinstatement  of 
their  friend  and  former  consul,  which  was  carefully  worded  to 
create  the  impression  that  it  was  forwarded  because  of  the  de- 
clared intention  of  the  present  consul  to  vacate. 

This  matter  was  being  forwarded  by  the  wealthy  importers 
or  buyers  of  rubber  in  New  York,  whose  agents  were  at  Para, 
as  also  by  the  United  States  and  Brazil  steamship  companies, 
all  of  whom  had  axes  to  grind,  and  intended  to  use  them  in 
cutting  off  an  objectionable  consul's  head. 

T  had  the  evidence  that  officials  of  the  consular  bureau  fa- 
vored the  project  of  reinstating  the  late  consul. 

Indeed,  it  was  all  so  cleverly  managed  that  his  English  friends 
in  Para  publicly  asserted  that  the  arrangement  had  in  fact  been 
made. 

Letters  to  this  effect  were  received  in  Para,  it  being  common 
talk  that  all  that  was  now  necessary  was  the  formal  nomination 
and  confirmation  of  the  Senate.  I  was  frequently  reminded  of 
this  by  some  one. 


TRANS -ANDEAN  RAILWAY.  355 

The  noteworthy  feature  about  this  scheme  is  that  it  indicates 
the  utter  inconsistency  of  our  consular  regulations,  in  regard  to 
their  requirements  as  to  probity  of  character  of  those  who  may 
be  appointed  consuls. 

Where  "influence"  prevails,  an  applicant  who  may  have  been 
proven  characterless  and  inefficient  for  the  discharge  of  his 
duties,  and  ostracised  by  respectable  people  of  the  country  because 
of  indecent  public  and  private  life  among  them,  is  approved  for 
appointment;  while  the  same  "influence"  may  be  successfully 
directed  so  as  to  have  the  effect  of  breaking  down  a  consul  for 
trying  to  conduct  himself  as  becomes  a  gentleman  and  to  fear- 
lessly do  his  duty,  in  the  performance  of  which  he  antagonizes 
interests  and  becomes  unpopular. 

As  will  be  apparent,  I  had  furnished  some  good  reasons  why 
the  department  should  take  action  for  my  removal,  on  account 
of  my  continued  press  correspondence,  and  I  was  not  disposed  to 
complain  about  that. 

I  did  not  entertain  as  great  resentment  toward  my  popular 
predecessor  as  I  did  toward  the  officials,  knowing  of  their  under- 
hand work,  so  I  determined  to  defeat  their  schemes,  and  it  will 
be  seen  that  I  succeeded. 

The  date  and  steamer  were  actually  named  for  my  prede- 
cessor's return,  which  was  to  be  celebrated  by  a  grand  "turn  out" 
of  the  consul  and  the  reinstatement  of  the  friend  of  the  officials. 

The  steamer  arrived  but  the  former  consul  did  not  not  make 
an  appearance.  Then  it  became  my  turn  again,  and  the  way  I 
went  for  the  boys  in  a  quiet  manner  was  the  talk  of  the  town.  I 
could  not  resist  the  temptation  to  say  to  the  numerous  perse- 
cutors whom  I  met  accidentally: 

"I  am  very  anxious  to  get  away.  I  do  hope  you  folks  will 
hurry  up  and  get  your  man  here."    Or, 

"When  is  your  consul  coming?" 

As  a  rule,  the  better  class  of  Englishmen  laughed  heartily 
over  the  affair,  and  being  defeated  again  at  their  own  game,  they 
were  manly  enough  to  give  me  credit  for  my  share  in  the  single- 


3S6  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

handed  fight,  in  which  I  was  victor  over  them  and  the  influence 
of  the  department  officials. 

On  the  other  hand,  the  few  interested  Americans  continued 
sullen.  The  agent  of  the  American  steamship  company,  who  had 
done  so  much  talking,  was  convicted  by  his  own  loose  tongue  of 
maligning  a  countryman.  His  conduct  not  only  demeaned  him 
among  honorable  men,  but  it  damaged  the  business  of  the  steam- 
ship company  he  misrepresented. 

I  had  considerable  sport  with  my  courteous  colleague,  the 
English  consul,  through  whose  efforts  the  charity  subscription 
had  been  secured  for  my  predecessor. 

This  gentleman  tried  to  make  me  believe  that  the  late  consul 
was  not  aware  of  the  contributions  being  gathered.  When  I  as- 
sured him  that  I  had  heard  it  talked  about  on  board  the  ship  that 
brought  me  to  Para,  and  was  confidentially  advised  by  the  Amer- 
ican steamship  agent  that  he  had  himself  procured  the  money, 
and  had  freely  talked  to  his  friends  about  it,  the  British  consul 
hardly  knew  whether  to  laugh  or  be  offended  at  the  deceit  that 
had  been  practiced  upon  him. 

We  frequently  met  at  table  or  elsewhere  in  a  social  way. 
Because  of  his  annoyance  over  the  turn  the  "private  affair"  had 
taken,  I  enjoyed  guying  him  by  pretending  to  whisper  a  confi- 
dential inquiry  as  to  how  he  was  getting  on  with  my  subscription. 
I  explained  that  I  did  not  know  anything  about  it,  of  course. 
That  I  was  going  soon  and  as  there  was  no  road  leading  from 
Para,  I  could  not  tramp  home ;  so  I  needed  all  he  could  raise  on 
my  "popularity"  among  his  countrymen. 

He  laughed  heartily  and  generally  managed  to  square  ac- 
counts by  some  reference  to  the  American  consuls'  scant  salaries. 

In  all  my  dispatches  to  the  department,  referring  to  relief, 
I  was  careful  to  say  that,  because  the  salary  scarcely  paid  ex- 
penses (as  my  vouchers  showed),  1  requested  that  notice  of  my 
relief  be  sent,  authorizing  me  to  draw  on  the  Treasurer  for  the 
return  expense  account  allowed  retiring  consuls. 


TRANS -ANDEAN   RAILWAY.  357 

I  desired  that  I  should  leave  no  debts,  but  a  clear  record. 
Neither  would  I  accept  a  charity  subscription. 

A  letter  had  previously  been  sent  me  by  the  American  steam- 
ship company's  manager,  tendering  free  transportation  on  their 
line,  coupled  with  some  suggestions  regarding  my  correspondence 
on  the  subject  of  steamship  subsidies  and  postal  contracts,  which 
was  at  this  time  agitating  congressional  committees. 

My  reports  had  not  suited  the  parties  interested  in  subsidies, 
as  they  had  clearly  shown,  that  to  the  very  reliable  British  steam- 
ship service  to  and  from  the  Amazon  for  over  forty  years,  was 
due  whatever  of  the  Amazon  trade  the  United  States  had  so  far 
enjoyed. 

The  following  extract  is  from  "Daily  Consular  Reports"  of 
March  23,  1911: 

"NEW  TRANSANDEAN  RAILWAY. 
[From  Consul  Alfred  A.  Winslow,  Valparaiso.] 

"The  Chilean  and  Argentine  Governments  have  agreed  on 
a  plan  to  connect  the  two  Republics  by  another  railway  some 
400  miles  north  of  the  present  Transandean  Railway  between 
Valparaiso  and  Buenos  Aires.  It  is  proposed  to  have  this  line 
of  the  same  gauge  all  the  way,  thus  avoiding  the  transfer  of 
freight  as  is  the  case  via  the  present  Transandean  line. 

"Such  a  line  would  open  up  some  rich  mineral  country  on 
the  Chilean  side  as  well  as  rich  mineral  and  agricultural  lands 
on  the  Argentine  side.  This  line  would  require  a  tunnel  of 
only  1,640  feet  to  pierce  the  Andes  at  the  point  selected,  and 
only  about  36  miles  of  road  is  needed  to  connect  it  with  the 
Longitudinal  Railway  now  building  and  the  port  of  Caldera, 
which  would  bring  the  farms  of  Argentina  much  nearer  the 
nitrate  fields  of  Chile  than  the  present  route. 

"The  Argentine  Government  has  made  the  appropriations 
for  that  portion  of  the  road,  and  from  the  sentiment  on  this 
side  there  seems  no  doubt  but  that  Chile  will  be  realy  to  con- 
nect as  soon  as  a  tunnel  can  be  completed  through  the  Andes. 


358  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL    IN    AMAZONIA. 

"The  Chilean  section  would  open  up  a  country  now  occu- 
pied by  30,000  people,  which  number  would  be  greatly  in- 
creased, since  that  part  of  the  country  is  rich  in  minerals." 


CHAPTER    XXXIII. 


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J 

HOME   VIA    EUROPE — CONCLUSION. 

s^  HOUGH  I  had  been  ordered  to  go  to  sea 
for  my  health,  it  was  necessary  to  return 
from  my  southern  voyage  via  Para,  where 
I  was  in  danger  of  delaying  too  long  un- 
der the  seductive  influences  of  that  de- 
lightfully wicked  little  city. 

At  the  end  of  a  week  I  was  reluctant- 
ly escorted  by  friends  aboard  the  Red 
Cross  steamship  Obidense,  that  was  to  sail  in  an  hour  for  Liver- 
pool, via  Madeira,  Lisbon  and  Havre.  This  new  vessel  of  the 
Red  Cross  Line  was  making  her  first  return  voyage  to  England, 
After  all  my  official  and  private  accounts  of  whatever  char- 
acter were  paid,  I  found  myself  in  possession  of  just  fifteen 
dollars,  with  which  to  pay  my  passage  home,  via  Europe. 

Though  return  expenses  or  traveling  time  is  allowed  by  the 
government,  the  department  had  not,  up  to  that  time  replied  to 
my  requests  for  the  advance  which  I  had  asked,  at  the  time  the 
free  pass  was  returned  to  the  steamship  company  some  months 
previously. 

As  far  as  the  department  was  concerned,  the  United  States 
consul  was  left  by  the  government  at  his  post  without  means  to 
return.  In  discussing  this  situation  with  my  Brazilian  friend, 
Senhor  Watrin,  he  at  once  volunteered  to  advance  me  all  the 
money  I  required.  It  is  due  to  this  gentleman's  kindness  that, 
while  still  sick  and  in  need,  I  was  enabled  to  take  the  voyage 
to  sea  on  my  return  home. 


36o  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL    IN    AMAZONIA. 

1  wrote  the  department  again  of  my  condition  and  requested 
that  funds  be  sent  to  me  at  Liverpool. 

It  was  indeed  a  pleasure  to  find  that  my  friend,  the  British 
consul  at  Para,  Mr.  Emil  Kauthack,  and  his  excellent  lady  were 
to  be  my  companions  during  the  voyage  on  the  Obidense  to 
England. 

This  courteous  colleague,  to  whom  I  was  under  many  obli- 
gations, may  be  described  as  a  highly  educated  gentleman,  who 
had  spent  the  greater  part  of  his  life  in  business  and  in  his  coun- 
try's service  in  Brazil,  and  was  not  only  familiar  with  the  Portu- 
guese language,  but  spoke  fluently  that  of  half  a  dozen  other  lands. 

A  most  popular  gentleman  with  all  classes,  he  with  his  wife, 
had  been  received  in  what  is  known  as  the  best  society.  Though 
of  German  parents,  in  personal  appearance  he  is  distinctively  Eng- 
lish, wearing  the  regulation  mutton  chop  side  whiskers,  now 
quite  gray,  slightly  bald,  though  not  over  fifty  years  of  age.  His 
quick  step,  as  he  swings  his  silk  umbrella  along  the  narrow  streets, 
stamps  him  at  sight  as  English,  even  if  he  did  not  wear  the  gray 
suit,  checked  trousers  and  derby  hat.  There  is  nothing  in  his 
bearing  that  would  indicate  that  he  had  occupied  the  responsible 
position  of  an  English  consul,  at  three  times  the  salary  of  the 
Americano,  while  at  the  same  time  the  English  laws  permitted 
him  to  occupy  the  post  as  the  manager  of  an  extensive  mercantile 
concern,  so  that  he  was  able  to  entertain  visitors  in  correct  style. 

While  the  Obidense  was  built  expressly  for  the  heavy  freight- 
ing trade  between  Europe  and  the  Amazon,  she  was  also  elegantly 
arranged  for  the  comfort  of  the  large  number  of  passengers  who 
prefer  to  travel  on  such  a  comfortable  ship. 

There  is  an  especially  good  paying  business  between  the 
Amazon  points,  northern  Brazil  and  Lisbon. 

The  same  line  extends  also  to  Havre,  Liverpool  and  Ham- 
burg. The  sailings  of  one  of  the  two  lines.  Red  Cross  and  Booth, 
occur  weekly,  and  each  ship  carries  all  the  passengers  it  can  ac- 
commodate. 


HOME  VIA   EUROPE— CONCLUSION.  361 

The  Obidense  being  new,  the  saloons  were  comfortably  ar- 
ranged in  the  modern  style  amidships,  but,  as  is  usual  in  vessels 
of  that  class  and  trade,  always  below  deck. 

The  captain,  Edward  II.  Collins,  though  quite  a  young  man, 
had  been  selected  from  among  the  commanders  in  the  company's 
fleet,  as  the  most  suitable  officer  for  the  new  ship.  He  is  an 
agreeable  officer  on  board  and  on  shore  a  companionable  gentle- 
man, who  enjoys  horseback  riding  in  the  company  of  a  large  Eng- 
lish mastiff  that  always  accompanies  him  to  sea. 

It  was  my  pleasure  to  have  met  the  captain  at  a  fashionable 
gathering  in  Manaos,  described  elsewhere.  He  seemed  to  be  the 
ladies'  favorite;  talks  Portuguese  and  French  in  a  softer  voice 
than  he  does  English  in  a  storm  at  sea,  and  dances  as  gracefully 
as  his  ship  sails. 

The  large  passenger  list  of  the  Obidense  was  made  up  of 
Portuguese  senhoritas  and  senhoras  with  innumerable  children, 
returning  to  their  fatherland,  Portugal,  either  as  visitors  or  to 
retire  in  that  land  of  cheap  living  on  the  fortunes  they  had  gath- 
ered in  the  rubber  trade. 

These  people  were  all  as  happy  and  contented  as  a  lot  of 
school  children  on  an  excursion.  Among  them  were  two  sisters 
of  the  Catholic  church,  natives  of  Italy,  one  of  whom  was  return- 
ing to  die  from  consumption,  the  other  little  sister  having  her 
in  charge,  each  of  whom  occupied  her  time  in  endeavoring  to 
relieve  the  other  of  the  discomforts  of  a  sea  voyage. 

Sailing  on  the  South  Atlantic  is  wholly  different  from  an 
experience  on  the  North  Atlantic.  It  is  seldom  rough  except 
in  the  Bay  of  Biscay,  after  leaving  Lisbon  for  Havre. 

The  evenings  were  spent  in  music  and  social  games  in  the 
saloons,  in  which  the  captain  joined  heartily. 

I  had  been  honored  with  a  seat  at  the  captain's  table,  along- 
side of  the  wife  and  opposite  to  that  of  the  British  consul.  The 
courteous  and  genial  Captain  Collins  occupied  the  post  of  honor 
at  the  head  of  our  table. 


362  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

English  dinners,  even  at  sea,  thousands  of  miles  from  home, 
are  very  like  those  in  England,  in  some  respects  rather  formal 
and  heavy  with  roast  beef  and  puddings,  but  yet  most  agreeable 
when  properly  taken.  On  July  4  we  were  at  sea,  in  the  middle 
of  the  South  Atlantic.  During  the  courses  we  had  the  usual  jolly 
conversation  and  chaffing  that  I,  as  a  "Yankee,"  had  to  take  with 
my  dinner  on  this  occasion,  but  which  I  so  much  enjoyed  that  I 
failed  to  notice  the  champagne  glasses  at  our  plates.  After  the 
dessert  and  champagne  was  served,  I  was  surprised  to  see  the 
handsome  English  consul  rise  in  his  place  and,  in  a  neat  little 
speech,  address  the  crowd  of  passengers  of  all  nationalities  in  the 
saloon,  and  to  myself  particularly,  as  the  only  American  on  board. 
He  proposed  a  toast  in  honor  of  our  national  day.  It  was  a  fine 
compliment,  handsomely  expressed  in  honor  of  an  ex-American 
consul,  and,  through  him  in  this  book,  to  the  thousands  of  Ameri- 
can people,  emanating  sincerely  and  disinterestedly  from  an  Eng- 
lish consul  on  board  of  an  English  ship  on  the  South  x^tlantic 
ocean,  on  July  4.  Thus  it  happened  again  that  "one  touch  of 
nature  makes  the  world  akin,"  and  one  is  made  to  feel  at  home 
at  sea  or  in  foreign  lands. 

I  am  sure  that  all  who  could  have  the  pleasure  of  meeting 
my  good  friend  personally,  as  well  as  other  such  representative 
foreigners,  would  soon  lose  their  latent  prejudice  against  for- 
eigners generally  and  Englishmen  particularly. 

A  certain  American  consul,  to  whom  I  talked  on  this  ques- 
tion, recently  assured  me,  in  that  positive  and  somewhat  dog- 
matic manner  that  most  Americans  are  apt  to  indulge  in,  myself 
included,  that  he  "was  the  recognized  opponent  of  everything 
English." 

O  Consul  Americano,  who  attempted  to  be  the  opponent  of 
everything  wrong,  observed  that  he  had  found  a  great  deal  of 
the  worst  sort  of  human  nature  had  come  from  our  land  and 
lodged  like  driftwood  on  the  coasts. 

The  insinuation  that  he  was  perhaps  too  English  brought 
forth  the  fire  from  the  veteran. 


HOME  VIA   EUROPE— CONCLUSION.  363 

"Those  who  have  served  in  the  front  and  offered  their  Hves 
as  a  sacrifice  on  the  ahar  of  Hberty  have  forever  placed  beyond 
discussion  the  question  of  his  fealty  to  his  country." 

May  24  was  the  queen's  birthday,  and  as  such  was  celebrated 
by  the  many  sons  of  England  scattered  all  around  the  world.  In 
company  with  other  foreigners  as  well  as  the  representative  Bra- 
zilians, the  writer,  remembering  the  speech  of  the  English  consul 
on  July  4,  had  the  honor  of  calling  at  the  English  consulate,  on 
May  24,  as  an  American  citizen,  to  pay  his  respects  to  this  same 
consul  who  had  so  kindly  remembered  our  national  day. 

In  the  interim  both  had  traveled  largely.  After  separating 
at  the  close  of  the  voyage,  we  again  met  at  our  original  starting 
point  on  the  equator,  at  the  center  of  the  earth's  surface,  extend- 
ing to  each  other  a  cordial  handshake  of  congratulation. 

On  this  occasion  the  flags  of  the  consuls  of  every  nation 
represented  are  displayed.  The  one  noticeable  exception  being 
that  of  the  American  consul,  who  did  not  call  to  pay  his  respects 
to  his  English  colleague  and  whose  flag  pole  was  conspicuously 
bare.    This  was  perhaps  an  oversight. 

There  is  something  singularly  touching  in  the  almost  universal 
attachment  of  the  English  "boys,"  as  even  the  old  gray  heads  are 
called,  in  their  expressions  of  devotion  and  loyalty  to  thei  r  good 
queen  who  has  since  died.  Gathered  about  the  table  of  the  British 
consul  and  quaffing  champagne  good  humoredly,  giving  the  toast 
"God  Save  the  Queen"  at  same  time  indulging  in  some  jokes 
at  her  expense,  was  every  Englishman  in  Para,  as  well  as  the 
officials  of  foreign  governments. 

Before  saying  farewell  to  the  Englishmen  connected  with 
this  story,  I  beg  to  add  that,  when  I  hastily  wrote  "Englishmen" 
in  the  first  chapters  I  did  not  mean  to  decry  the  nationality  which 
has  produced  and  yet  claims  some  of  the  noblest  and  best  speci- 
mens of  human  kind. 

My  first  experience  dealt  only  with  a  certain  small  clique  of 
second  rate  Englishmen  then  resident  abroad.  After  having  spent 
some  delightful  months  in  England  visiting  the  beautiful  country 


364  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL    IN    AMAZONIA. 

of  the  south,  near  Bath  and  Bristol,  the  latter  the  birthplace  and 
home  of  my  grandfather,  who  was  an  officer  in  the  Royal  Navy, 
one  is  prepared  to  modify  his  first  impression  of  all  English  from 
the  unhappy  experience  with  a  few. 

In  due  time  the  good  ship  sighted  the  lofty  tops  of  the  moun- 
tains, which  seem  to  rise  out  of  the  waters  known  as  Madeira 
Islands. 

The  quarantine  regulations  are  so  rigidly  enforced  against 
Para  that  we  were  not  permitted  to  communicate  with  the  pretty 
town  of  Fayal,  which  is  built  on  a  steep  hillside.  We  were  en- 
called,  in  their  expressions  of  devotion  and  loyalty  to  their  good 
some  ripe  peaches  and  strawberries  by  means  of  baskets  let  down 
over  the  sides  to  the  numerous  boats  hovering  around. 

One  day  from  Madeira  put  us  into  the  river  leading  to 
Lisbon.  We  sail  up  this  beautiful  stream,  on  each  bank  of  which 
are  all  the  evidences  of  European  civilization — tasty  houses,  cul- 
tivated fields  and  a  hustling  railway  line. 

On  the  hills  near  Lisbon  the  captain  points  out  a  large  oblong 
building  as  the  Palace.  The  Portuguese  passengers  reverently 
gaze  upon  it  as  the  home  of  the  long  line  of  their  monarchs. 

A  flag  flying  from  the  staff  indicated  that  the  king  was  in  his 
palace.  Here,  again,  we  were  not  permitted  to  land,  because  of 
quarantine. 

The  numerous  Portuguese  passengers  at  this  point  left  us, 
all  of  whom  were  obliged,  by  the  strict  law,  to  spend  some  days 
in  the  quarantine  station  or  lazaretto,  before  they  were  permitted 
to  cross  the  river  to  the  city  of  Lisbon. 

Not  being  ashore,  we  could  form  no  impression  of  Lisbon 
from  our  anchorage  in  the  stream,  beyond  the  observation  that  it 
seemed  to  be  a  large  city.  We  remained  here  twenty-four  hours. 
The  captain's  wife  and  son,  under  the  care  of  Captain  Collins, 
senior,  a  vigorous  old  gentleman,  had  come  out  from  Liverpool 
to  meet  the  husband  and  son. 

We  were  also  joined  at  Lisbon  by  a  Para  family,  who  had 
been  visiting  in   Portugal  and  were  then  destined  to  Paris  and 


HOME  VIA    EUROPE— CONCLUSION.  365 

Brussels.  They  consisted  of  mother,  son  and  two  young  daugh- 
ters, both  of  whom  were  of  the  pretty,  neat,  Httle  brunette  types 
so  numerous  in  Para. 

The  captain's  wife  afforded  a  striking  contrast,  being  a  well 
formed,  beautiful  blonde  lady  of  distinct  English  type.  She  was 
accompanied  by  her  blonde  sister.  Through  this  exchange  at 
Lisbon  we  certainly  were  the  gainers,  as  our  new  passengers  were 
not  only  attractive  and  agreeable,  but  all  were  accomplished. 

The  elder  of  the  young  Para  ladies  appeared  to  be  quite 
delicate,  but  this  event  had  the  effect  of  heightening  her  attractive- 
ness, her  large,  expressive,  dark  eyes  seeming  to  give  her  in- 
tellectual face  a  sad  expression.  She  made  friends  as  readily  as 
any  American  girl  on  her  travels  abroad.  Through  her  agreeable 
ways  and  accomplishment  as  a  musician,  we  were  afforded  de- 
lightful days  as  we  sailed  up  the  coast  of  Spain,  the  time  passing 
so  pleasantly  we  did  not  discover  any  discomfort  in  the  "Bay  of 
Biscay." 

The  Senhorita  Antoinette  required  that  those  who  had  lis- 
tened to  her  own  and  her  brother's  music  should  take  an  equal 
part  in  the  ship  entertainment.  If  they  could  not  play,  she  in- 
sisted that  they  must  recite  or  tell  a  story. 

The  younger  sister  Augusta  extracted  a  great  deal  of  pleasure 
from  teasing  or  playing  tricks  on  others. 

The  refined  and  motherly  wife  of  the  English  consul  was 
the  life  of  all  our  little  enjoyments.  I  had  prevailed  upon  the 
ladies  several  times  to  partake  of  American  cocktails,  at  which 
they  would  sip,  and  make  wry  faces. 

It  is  the  well  known  custom  on  all  steamers,  when  stewards 
furnish  wines,  to  require  a  ticket  signed  by  the  receiver.  These 
are  presented  for  payment  at  the  end  of  the  voyage. 

The  British  consul,  a  whole  souled,  generous  gentleman,  was 
buying  beer  for  the  whole  ship's  company  and  crew  every  few 
days,  and  had  quite  a  bundle  of  tickets  presented  to  him  the  day 
we  arrived  in  port. 


366  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL    IX    AMAZONIA. 

I  had  great  sport  with  his  wife  by  pretending  to  believe  that 
they  were  all  on  account  of  cocktails  which  she  had  drank.  When 
with  a  serious  face  I  assured  her  that  I  had  kept  tab,  too,  and 
could  show  a  record  of  about  six  a  day,  she  did  not  know  whether 
to  scold  or  laugh. 

It  was  a  joke  on  the  consul's  family  when  they  subsequently 
returned  to  Para,  where  the  English  boys  enjoyed  teasing  the  lady 
about  the  cocktails  she  consumed. 

As  predicted  by  the  doctors  at  Para,  the  sea  voyage  of 
eighteen  days  had  almost  entirely  effected  my  recovery.  .  I  was 
sorry  when  we  reached  Havre,  as  at  this  point  the  Para  ladies 
were  to  leave  us  for  Paris. 

My  first  day  and  night  in  La  Belle  France  I  shall  always 
remember  as  a  most  agreeable  experience  in  that  beautiful  land. 
In  company  with  a  genial  young  Portuguese  gentleman  in  busi- 
ness in  England  and  Brazil  as  a  traveling  salesman,  we  visited  all 
points  of  interest,  including  the  residence  of  the  divine  Sara  Bern- 
hardt, the  lighthouse,  the  gardens,  boulevards,  and  in  the  evenings 
the  French  cafes  and  theaters. 

We  had  breakfast  with  the  ladies,  who  soon  after  left  by 
train  for  Paris.  I  came  very  nearly  going  along  with  them,  there- 
by cutting  off  the  journey  through  England,  except  on  the  return 
trip,  but  concluded  on  account  of  the  proprieties,  that  I  had  better 
go  with  the  captain  and  consul  to  Liverpool. 

When  we  returned  to  the  ship,  an  hour  before  sailing,  the 
captain  good  humoredly  declared  that  they  had  no  expectation 
that  I  Avould  rejoin  them.  Subsequently  I  was  so  severely  chaffed 
by  the  captain  and  wife  during  the  rest  of  the  journey  that  I 
was  really  sorry  I  had  not  deserted  them  at  Havre. 

It  was  a  cool,  misty  Sunday  morning  in  July,  when  we  sailed 
up  the  English  channel.  When  the  fog  like  a  curtain  lifted,  I 
was  surprised  to  find  we  were  in  the  midst  of  shipping  as  numer- 
ous as  on  the  North  River,  New  York. 

The  first  town  in  England  pointed  out  to  me  was  named  West 
Kirby.     We  soon    got  into  the  IMersey,  anchored  in  the  stream, 


HOME  VIA   EUROPE— CONCLUSION.  267 

were  visited  by  officials  looking  for  cigars  and  tobacco.  After  a 
farewell  to  the  captain  and  family,  the  consul  and  wife  and  I 
jumped  into  a  tender,  that  landed  us  on  a  floating  dock,  thence 
into  a  cab  to  the  Northwestern  Hotel. 

My  first  experience  with  English  civilization,  as  she  is  at 
home,  occurred  at  the  hotel  office. 

In  a  little  eight  by  ten  box  on  the  first  floor  of  the  great 
building  I  was  directed  to  find  the  "hoffice."  A  tall,  pretty,  blonde 
girl,  in  a  black  silk  dress,  was  standing  inside,  carrying  all  the 
indifferent  airs  of  the  American  hotel  clerk.  I  supposed  she  was 
a  lady  guest,  or  the  daughter  of  the  proprietor.  As  she  did  not 
deign  to  notice  the  anxious  look  of  a  tired  traveler,  I  ventured  to 
ask  if  the  clerk  would  allow  me  to  see  him  a  moment.  "What  did 
you  wish?"  was  the  reply.  "I  want  to  register  here  for  a  day  or 
two,  if  I  can  be  accommodated."    She  meekly  added: 

"Ek)  you  'require'  a  single  or  double  bed?" 

I  stammered  that  I  only  required  a  little  bed  for  myself. 

She  called  somebody  and  gave  directions  to  show  me  to 
my  room.  To  my  inquiries  regarding  trains  for  London,  she 
haughtily  referred  me  to  "the  head  portah,"  whom  I  found  sub- 
sequently to  be  a  sort  of  rough  clerk. 

I  spent  Sunday  afternoon  at  Birkenhead  and  New  Brighton, 
those  Sunday  bathing  points  over  the  river.  The  evening  in  the 
streets  and  on  the  next  day  I  went  to  London. 

I  will  not  begin  to  tell  of  my  month  of  sight  seeing  in  Lon- 
don, except  to  say  that  I  believe  I  saw  as  much  as  any  one  else 
in  the  same  length  of  time. 

Next  to  Para,  I  like  London  for  enjoyment. 

Oh,  yes,  I  saw  the  tower,  Westminster  Abbey,  Parliament 
in  session,  and  all  the  rest  of  the  routine  trip  as  laid  out  in  the 
books,  but  that  part  which  afforded  me  the  greatest  entertain- 
ment is  not  down  in  the  guide  books. 

I  lived  for  a  month  in  Russell  Square,  near  the  British  J\Iu- 
seum,  and  never  once  entered  it,  but  I  was  on  Piccadilly  Circus 


368  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

every  evening  and  visited  the  Alhambra  or  Empire  theatre  every 
night  regularly  and  Hyde  Park  every  Sunday  for  the  church 
parade. 

The  great  naval  exhibition  was  on  at  Chelsea,  where  I  spent 
many  delightful  half  days  looking  at  the  sights  and  such  crowds 
as  we  never  can  get  together. 

I  called  to  pay  my  respects  to  the  minister,  Honorable  Robert 
T.  Lincoln,  and  through  the  personal  efforts  of  Mr.  White  se- 
cured a  seat  as  an  American  newspaper  man  in  the  Parliament 
galleries.  I  was  also  under  obligations  to  Consul  General  John 
C.  New,  for  courtesies,  as  well  as  to  my  old  friend  Tom  Sherman, 
an  ex-telegrapher,  consul  at  Liverpool. 

I  take  the  opportunity  to  record  my  obligation  to  Mr.  An- 
drew Carnegie,  then  in  Scotland,  for  his  kindly  remembrance 
of  an  old  associate.  We  had  been  boys  together  in  the  same 
office  with  Thomas  A.  Scott,  of  the  Pennsylvania  Railroad,  in 
Pittsburg.  I  went  to  the  wars,  he  remained  at  home  and  by 
attending  to  business  interests  became  a  capitalist,  while  the  best 
I  could  do  was  to  become  a  consul  in  a  poor  country.  "Andy," 
as  we  used  to  call  him,  never,  however,  forgot  his  early  friends. 

In  reply  to  Mr.  Sherman's  cable  requesting  transportation 
for  the  ex-consul,  the  department  stated  that  the  law  only  au- 
thorizefl  the  payment  of  expenses  after  return  home.  In  com- 
municating this  to  Mr.  Carnegie,  he  further  forwarded  my  de- 
sires by  at  once  telegraphing  from  Scotland  to  the  consul  at 
Southampton  to  secure  me  passage  to  New  York  by  first  steamer. 

One  of  the  misfortunes  that  served  to  add  to  my  gratifica- 
tion, however,  was  that,  in  reaching  Liverpool  in  July,  I  was 
surprised  to  find  every  berth  fully  taken  up  for  the  ensuing  two 
months  by  returning  American  tourists.  This  afforded  me  a 
good  excuse  for  the  delays  that  enabled  me  to  see  some  of  Lon- 
don and  Paris. 

On  reaching  Southampton!  I  called  upon  the  consul,  Mr. 
Jasper  P.  Bradley,  whom  I  found  to  be  a  most  entertaining  and 


HOME  VIA   EUROPE— CONCLUSION.  369 

clever  young  gentleman  from  West  Virginia.  Not  being  able  to 
get  passage  at  once,  I  occupied  the  delay  in  revisiting  the  homes 
of  my  grandparents  at  Bristol,  and  vvralking  about  the  docks  of 
Southampton  and  Portsmouth,  made  familiar  to  me  by  my  grand- 
father's diary  of  his  early  sea  voyages,  starting  from  these  ports 
when  a  boy. 

Finally  I  secured  a  first  class  passage  on  the  North  German 
Lloyd  Fulda,  w^ith  the  privilege  of  sleeping  on  a  sofa  in  the 
saloons.  The  Fulda  was  overcrowded  with  returning  tourists. 
Among  them  were  the  usual  bevy  of  gushing  New  England 
schoolmarms,  whose  whole  conversation  related  to  exchanging 
notes  on  the  sights  they  had  seen.  One  of  the  brightest  young 
ladies  selected  me  as  a  victim.  I  had  to  take  it  all  until  happily  re- 
lieved one  day.  She  was,  of  course,  enthusiastic  about  the  Royal 
Art  Gallery  and  the  Louvre  in  Paris,  and  evinced  astonishment 
at  my  frank  observation  that  I  had  been  inveigled  into  the  big 
Louvre  by  my  companion  who  was  following  a  girl.  I  did  not 
like  it;  no.  There  were  too  many  holy  pictures  of  crucifixions, 
last  suppers,  etc.  I  declared  that  I  had  seen  prettier  pictures  in 
the  shops  in  Palais  Royal.  In  exclamations  of  astonishment  she 
continued :  "Didn't  you  see  the  Murillos  ?"  My  mind  was  evi- 
dently wandering  as  I  replied :  "Does  Murillos  dance  at  the  Jardin 
de  Paris  or  Moulin  Rouge?" 

That  settled  it.  She  walked  off  with  as  much  dignity  as  the 
rolling  of  the  great  ship  would  permit,  and  I  was  thereafter  left 
to  enjoy  my  seasickness  in  quiet. 

Through  the  kindness  of  the  steward  I  with  a  couple  of  others 
were  made  comfortable  after  twelve  at  night  on  the  sofas  of  the 
smoking  room,  which,  being  on  deck  and  well  ventilated,  was, 
in  fact,  superior  to  many  of  the  rooms  below. 

This  trip  has  been  finished.  Suffice  it  to  say  that  I  got  home 
all  right  and  in  good  condition,  without,  however,  the  assistance 
of  the  consular  department. 

On  reaching  Washington  city,  my  home,  I  at  once  reported 
in  person  to  the  State  Department,  and  was  courteously  received. 


370  AN    AMERICAN    CONSUL   IN    AMAZONIA. 

The  officials  explained  that  the  then  acting  Secretary  of  State, 
Mr.  Wharton,  had  decided  that,  as  the  law  read,  payment  was 
to  be  made  only  after  return  home,  and  therefore  he  could  not 
authorize  the  necessary  funds  to  be  advanced,  even  though  the 
consul  of  the  United  States  should  be  actually  left  in  distress  in 
a  foreign  land. 

I  called  upon  the  treasury  department  officials,  who  cour- 
teously facilitated  my  final  settlement,  which  resulted  in  the  pay- 
ment to  me  of  over  three  hundred  dollars  as  a  balance  due  me. 

I  received  warrants  for  the  amounts,  which  ended  my  offi- 
cial business  connections  with  the  government. 

Just  one  word  in  conclusion :  As  hereinbefore  stated,  I  did 
not  want  to  go  to  Para  as  consul  neither  after  my  arrival  there 
did  I  desire  to  stay,  but  I  have  no  grievance  against  the  govern- 
ment. They  paid  me  all  that  was  due  under  the  provisions  of 
the  law  governing  such  matters. 

This  ends  my  narrative,  which  I  hope  has  proven  of  interest 
to  my  readers  to  whom  I  now  say  good-by. 


FINIS. 


LLOYD    BRAZILKIRO 

(Brazilian  Steamship  Line) 

Refriilar  sailings  from  New  ^'ork  to  Para,  Manaos,  Maranham,  ("t-ara, 
Natal,  C'abedello,  Pemainhuco,  Maceio,  Haliia,  Victoria,  Rio  cle  Janiero, 
Santos  and  South  Brazil  Coast  ports.  fl  Thnjugii  liills  of  Lading 
issued  to  all  Brazil  Coast,  Uruguay,  Argentine  and  Paraguay  ports. 
^  Regular  monthly  passenger  service  of  new  twin-screw  steamers 
equipped  with  wireless  telegraphy  and  deep-sea  sounding  apparatus, 
touching  at  Barbados  en  route  and  connecting  with  Brazilian  Coast- 
wise  Service.     ^  Through    tickets    issued   at    New    York    to  all  ports. 

LOADING   BERTH.   PIER   5.   BUSH   DOCKS.   SOUIH   BROOKLYN. 


BRAZILIAN-   COASTWISK    FREK;HT    AND    PASSENGER    SERVICE —ft,/,,    Rh    d,    .7,„„Vr«  -Non TH. 

One  weekly  sailing  for  Manaos.  callinj;  at  Victoria.  Bahia.  Maceio.  Recife.  Cahedello.    Natal.  Ceara.   Tut- 

oya,  Maranhao.  Para.  Santarem.  Obidos.  Parintins.    Itacoatiara.      <!  One   sailiiiu   every    10  days"  for 

Para,    eallini;   at   Bahia.    Pernambuco  and  Ceara.     ^  One  sailini;  every  forlnii:lit  for  Penedo  via 

Caravella,s,  Bahia.  E.stancia,  Aracaju.  Villa   Nova.     ^  Fr,m    Rh  de   7rt„/>ro--SoiiTH.     One 

v«eekly  sailing  to  the  River  Plate,  calliii):  at  Santos.  Paranaeua.  Sao  Francisco.   Itajaliy. 

Klorianopolos.    Rio   (irande  do   Sul.  P.irto  Alegre.  Montevideo  and  Buenos  Ayres. 

^1  One   fortnight    sailing  to   Klorianopolos.    via   Paramagua.     Sao    Francisco, 

Itajahy.     tj  One    fortnight   sailing    to   Cananea  and   lgu.ipe,  via  Santos. 

PLATE,    PARANA     AND     PARA(;UAY     RIVER     SERVICE.-Fortnightly    seniee   from    Montevideo   to 
C  i.rumba.  calling  at  Buenos  Ayres.  Rosario.  Parana,  Corricntes.  Asuncion,  Apa, 
Porto    Murtinho.    connecting    with    steamer   to    Cuyaba. 


For  Freight  or  Passage,  apply  to   A.    R.  (iRACA,   General  Agent, 

8-10  Bridge  Street,    New  York. 


Telephones  :     {ijj^y  [-  Broad. 


THE  LIBRARY 
UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA 

Santa  Barbara 


THIS  BOOK  IS  DUE  ON  THE  LAST  DATE 
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